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MnG KY

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Posts posted by MnG KY

  1. End of story... reprised the pump and have plenty of pressure at all outlets when using fresh water tank. 

    City water still a trickle. OTT suggested getting a winterization hand pump and doing a vinegar flush thru city water inlet. This will have to wait until we get back to civilization (or find a hand pump to borrow). May try pouring vinegar into a hose   hooked to city inlet then force it thru with city water pressure. We'll see. 

    Thank all for suggestion!

    • Like 1
  2. 6 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

    FYI:  We had a similar condition where there was 35-40psi at the spigot, the water pump would run when a sink valve was open (so we knew it wasn't air locked), but flow was weak (if any) from the toilet, showers, bath/kitchen sinks.  We went around to each point of usage and cleaned out debris which had accumulated at the mesh screens - including the one at the rear of the toilet.  The debris appeared to be a white substance possibly calcification from a water line on the downstream side of the water pump.  Don't know for sure.  Anyhow, after removing the blockages - we no longer have "low-flow sadness." 

    Checked all points of usage and sorry to say, but no debris 

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  3. 6 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    Is the water pump running all the time when turned on? If so it is airlocked. You need to get water into its inlet hose. The easy fast way is to close the faucet valve and open the tank fill valve. This is from Hull 218, your arrangement may look different. 
     

    IMG_2885.thumb.jpeg.dac69267f1327320e904cea646339c09.jpeg
     

    This creates an open loop path for the water - tank to pump to tank. It allows the system to bleed out any air by releasing the bubbles into the tank. If that doesn’t do the trick, remove the inlet hose at the tee fitting and manually pour in some water and reconnect it. If that doesn’t do it, your pump has failed.

    Because the Ollie tank is so long, and the water is literally sucked out close the rear, it often gets air in that hose when traveling with a partially full tank (as the water sloshes around). This may not be related to your problem, but you need to know how to fix the airlock if it doesn’t correct itself by opening the sink faucets.

    Changing the pump is simple but does require making two crimped wire connections.

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

     

    Pump primed as suggested. Now we have water from the fresh water holding tank but still no pressure when city water is connected?? Waiting g to hear from PTT

    • Like 1
  4. 5 hours ago, mossemi said:

    Are your water supply valves under the curbside bed in the correct positions?

    IMG_1145.thumb.jpeg.5a503e5b7140e670578cdf1e5b98f578.jpeg

    Do you have cold water at the outside shower while connected to the City water inlet?

    Mossey

    The following is from the OTT LEII owners manual.

    IMG_1146.thumb.jpeg.a6e609730e5161cdb7a4942c5646e6f6.jpeg

     

    Yes..we checked and rechecked the water supply valves numerous times yesterday. 

    And Yes we have cold water at the shower. 

    Any ideas about what is happening?

  5. 5 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    Is the water pump running all the time when turned on? If so it is airlocked. You need to get water into its inlet hose. The easy fast way is to close the faucet valve and open the tank fill valve. This is from Hull 218, your arrangement may look different. 
     

    IMG_2885.thumb.jpeg.dac69267f1327320e904cea646339c09.jpeg
     

    This creates an open loop path for the water - tank to pump to tank. It allows the system to bleed out any air by releasing the bubbles into the tank. If that doesn’t do the trick, remove the inlet hose at the tee fitting and manually pour in some water and reconnect it. If that doesn’t do it, your pump has failed.

    Because the Ollie tank is so long, and the water is literally sucked out close the rear, it often gets air in that hose when traveling with a partially full tank (as the water sloshes around). This may not be related to your problem, but you need to know how to fix the airlock if it doesn’t correct itself by opening the sink faucets.

    Changing the pump is simple but does require making two crimped wire connections.

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

     

    Thanks will try to prime pump as you suggested.  Not sure that will help the no flow on city water but the pump/fresh water tank needs to work too!

    • Like 1
  6. 8 hours ago, AlbertNTerri said:

    Disconnect the hose from the outside (or at least shut off the water source), shut off the pump, get some towels and look under the curb side bed at the pump (where the valves are to change configuration for boondocking etc.) On the inlet side of the pump is a clear plastic cup-like structure that has a screen filter, unscrew the filter cap (clear plastic cup) and see if you have debris in the screen that need to be cleared. Put the towels down to catch the water that comes out when you unscrew the filter cover. Clean it and then put it back together, it doesn't need to be more than finger-tight.  If that doesn't fix it then I'd call OTT in the morning. It may also be related to the back-flow valve which is on the inside of the line right after where you hook up the water hose (on the street side. If that's the issue than it should be under warranty and you'll want to open a service ticket. 

    When we have checked the filter ..no debris. Now no water even getting to the filter. Opened a ticket last night and waiting waterlessky to hear from OTT. It's a mystery!  Thanks for the advice!

    • Like 1
  7. On 9/16/2022 at 2:43 PM, SeaDawg said:

    George, I've  been pondering your issues today, and I am wondering if all of this may be related back to the problem you had back in July when your batteries were all  at zero, and you only had shore power. We never did hear why the batteries didn't charge on shore power. Just assumed you had turned them off accidentally.  Now, I think you probably ran the batteries to "zero" at some point previously, and the bms turned them off to keep the small reserve and save your batteries from harm.

    At this point, I'm "guessing", and you will probably know, that your batteries have not all three ever been brought back to 100 per cent since then, so you could have a couple issues. 

    First, your state of charge likely won't show accurately until all three batteries have attained 100 per cent, and the monitoring system  "resets." (This isn't just lithionics. It's pretty much all lithium systems that I've used or read about.)

    The second is, every big lithium battery is a whole bunch of smaller cells, making up a bigger capacity battery. Those cells can vary slightly,  and won't rebalance till the battery has reached 100 per cent, and stayed there for awhile.  Til then you won't get full battery capacity. If you have a bad cell, you never will, but you're under warranty...

    An acquaintance with victron had to charge each battery separately, for example,  to rebalance after running to zero, as I recall, but that's different gear, and I  wouldn't recommend it for your system without speaking to Oliver first, and then Lithionics if you are referred there. Every manufacturer has particular practices that they recommend,  based on their design and chemistry.

    I'm wondering also if your charging profile is set correctly. Balancing only happens in absorption, I think, for most. Perhaps that threshold isn't high enough on your xantrex. Ask Jason to run through the settings with you. 

    I know this has been frustrating for you. At this point, I'd open a service ticket, talk through everything with Jason, (including your past issues) and hopefully it's just something small-- like changing a setting,  or leaving the trailer plugged in and charging long enough without other loads like ac,  to get accurate per centage of charge readings.

    It's important to remember  that lithiums don't behave like lead acid or even flashlight batteries, where voltage tells the story, and lights dim, etc., as stored amp hours run down, but the flashlight or overhead lights still work, just dim. With lithium, it's pretty much linear. Everything works at the same voltage, but when you're out of stored energy, it drops off a cliff, and you have nothing, and the bms shuts you down, which may be what happened to you in July. So a voltage reading from lithiums tells you pretty much nothing, til they're depleted. (Although lithionics, I'm certain,  retains a small per centage in the battery, but shows zero, and shuts down. All the majors do.) The bms depends on algorithms and power in/power out to give you state of charge readings. 

    Hang in there. You and Jason will get it straight, I'm sure, so that you can enjoy your lithium system as you should.

    Best of luck.

    Thanks for the helpful message. We have been chatting with Jason and  Xantrex. We've run alot of test. Sent alot of data to Jason.

    Where we stand now is Jason has been in touch with Lithionics and the 2 batteries that won't accept a charge or discharge are going back to Lithionics for some magic cure I don't understand. Jason has so patiently worked with us on this. We are now using one battery , shore power or generator until the "sick" batteries return. All's good and will get better AND we're learning SO much.

    (Jason  and Oliver owners are the best!)

    Melinda

     

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  8. All 3 batteries are ON. Since they are all tied together, I assumed when the fist one got to 100 the next would charge to 100 and then the third. Guess I need to run the first one all the way down to see what happens. It's not a big deal I guess, but we spent a lot of mo ey for this option, seems it should operate pretty simply. Wish someone would come in that has the same.

  9. 3 Lithioncs lithium 

    Seems that only one battery gets all the action. We just started watching them on the app. We ran the one down to 21, then went on generator mode, it came back up to 99 but the other two stayed at 79 and 81. Thought they all would recharge.

  10. 3 Lithioncs lithium 

    Seems that only one battery gets all the action. We just started watching them on the app. We ran the one down to 21, then went on generator mode, it came back up to 99 but the other two stayed at 79 and 81. Thought they all would recharge.

  11. 29 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

    These things seem to happen one-by-one.  You won’t forget to check to see if your batteries are on again and you’ll know that if there is no 12V to check the batteries and the breakers.  If your water pump quits working, don’t panic.  There are two red wires that connect to the underside of the pump, they like to come disconnected if you travel some rough roads.  Easy to fix.  If the microwave quits, check to see if it is still plugged in to 110V.  Etc, etc.  There’s help here on the forum, lots of smart, technical folks and some not so technical (me) who have dealt with seemingly big issues that turn out to be no big deal.  Pretty soon you’ll be giving advice!  Enjoy your camping!  Mike

    Thanks for the encouragement. !

    • Like 2
  12. Hope we have not destroyed the batteries. First of three should be fully charged within the hour, then I guess it rotates the #2, then #3.

    If you get/have the lithium batteries make SURE you download the app. The solar Zamp readout showed it was charging when it was not since the batteries were not on

     

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