carnivore
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Posts posted by carnivore
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Connor77, I’ll throw my 2cents in here. I have been pulling our LE2 for the past 20 months over about 19,000 mi without any problems. We live in TX but have pulled it up and down mountains of CO, WY & MT without any problems. I don’t use an Anderson hitch and drive between 60-70. We have the 20lb propane tanks, don’t have a front basket and I generally travel with a full fresh water tank. In the truck bed we carry a Honda 2000, gas can, full cooler, small Webber grill and a couple lawn chairs. We don’t have a topper, only a trifold backflip cover. Sure a diesel would pull better but I use the truck as my daily driver and really like the reliability of the Tundra. Mine is a 16 and has 87k on it. It even has the original brakes. I am considering replacing it with a new Tundra just because I have read somewhere that Toyota is going to stop producing the 5.7 v8. I do like the F250 gas trucks but it is 2” too long to fit in our garage.
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We Will be in E21
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Jumper cables or an inexpensive battery charger from Walmart to finish the trip.
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This thread really motivates me to add solar to my 2019 LE2. Mossemi has already giving me plenty of advice and recommended a good book on the basics. My trailer came with the panel wiring already in the walls. One end of the wire is bundled under the street side bunk and it is also visible passing through through the area behind the stereo and then continues upward to the roof somewhere between the hulls.
My biggest unknown is exactly where is the top end of the panel cable located on the roof between the inner and outer hulls. I don’t have an opportunity to get a close look at another Oliver with solar already installed.
Can anyone shed light on how to locate the top end of the wire and where to drill the hole for the port.
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I replaced the temporary battery cutoff I had previously installed inside my battery Box with a new Blue Sea 300 amp switch that I mounted on the panel under the street side bunk. Thanks Salorashore for the idea.
I also installed a Victron 712 battery monitor. The seller was out of the smart shunts so they sold me the 712 for only $20 more. The display will stay under the Rear dinette seat mounted in a plastic junction box. Thanks Mossemi For the idea.
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18 minutes ago, Overland said:
I have our switches mounted under the street side bed, on top of the wheel well. I think that’s where Oliver usually puts their inverter, but mine was too big for that spot and so it’s located under the front dinette seat.
What about putting the switches below the pantry, in the space that can’t be mentioned? Easy access, but hidden from view. Might be hard to actually wire them up there though.
the space you are referring to is already occupied. Once I receive the switch, if the dimensions of the face and knob are thin enough when surface mounted to not interfere with the slide and side of the batteries, I could consider mounting it on the side of the battery housing with the switch knob facing the batteries. On/off function could be done by reaching into the battery box and turning the knob. any thoughts / opinions??
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Currently I don't have solar panels, solar charge controller, Lithium batteries or an inverter but plan to add them in the next year or two to our 2019 LE2.
I have ordered both a Blue Sea switch and a Victron battery monitor. I'm fairly confident on how to mount & connect each of them but I am not completely sure WHERE to mount them in our 2019 LE2.
I am wanting to install the battery cut-off switch where John (sailorashore) mounted his but don't want to cut a hole and put the switch in the space where a future inverter needs to be mounted. Any advice where the future inverter is suppose to be mounted?
Thank you , Steve "Carnivore" 512
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Thank you Overland. I appreciate it.
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So You are saying that if the camper is stored With fully charged batteries for 2-3 months without being plugged in is not a problem???
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battery switch.pdfI am planning to install a Blue Sea battery cutoff switch. I am also installing a Victron Smart Shunt. I don't have solar or lithium but do plan to add them down the road.
If I install the cutoff on the (+) lead as indicated in the attached sketch, will the two small wires that serve as the temperature probe allow any current flow while the cutoff switch is open? (in the battery cutoff position)?
Thanks,
Steve #512
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Mike, prayers for your Mom.
I am going to attend the non-rally and will be in site F-46.
We just got back from a month long trip and my better half has given me a hall pass to go solo..
I'm looking forward to meeting all of you.
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Nice job. I did a temporary cut-off that currently resides in the battery compartment. I used a basic Harbor freight switch that I had laying around and a small plastic junction box fastened to the floor of the battery tray where batteries #3&4 (which I don’t have) go using command strips.
I plan to upgrade to lithium in the next couple years and will install One like you did. Again good work and good clear write-up.
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We didn’t order the electric lock but later decided that one would be convenient. I ordered a RV lock model V4 from rv lock on Black Friday Sale for $129. Install took only 15-20 minutes. It is plastic and doesn’t feel as hefty as the stock metal manual one that came with our trailer. If the RV electric lock breaks, we still have the original metal one to re-install.
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Moots,
I just sent you a pm. We are currently in Palo Duro canyon and slowly camping our way to Littleton to visit our Son. If you are flexible with your time, we would be happy to show you ours and discuss likes/dislikes. Give me a call or text.
thanks. Steve -
I pull an E2 with a 2016 tundra and have done so comfortably for about 10,000 mi. I have pulled multiple trips to the CO mountains without issue. I carry a generator, fuel cans, a loaded cooler, and tools in the truck bed. I fill up my water tank and don’t use an Anderson hitch. I occasionally do 70-75mph on the interstate and so far have never experienced trailer sway on this rig.
The current incentives are causing me to toy with the idea of getting a new truck. Even though Fords and Chevys have a few more whistles and bells, At this point I will probably replace my tundra with a newer one just because of how well the truck pulls the trailer.
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I don’t know what the technical definition is but we have camped several days with weather in the teens while utilizing the onboard water system without a freeze problem. The furnace seemed more than adequate to warm the cabin and keep the pipes above freezing.
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Congratulations Scott & Veronica
we look forward to seeing you at the rally -
We are registered and will be in site F03 and Looking forward to meeting many of you.
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We have found that you get use to it and don’t even notice it after a while.
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David, congratulations on the purchase. I'm sure you will have some great adventures ahead.
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I have a Tundra and have towed our Oliver roughly 5,000 miles including time in the mountains of CO & UT. I travel with the water tank full and carry a generator, gas can, water cans and a large cooler in the back of the truck. I don't use a weight distribution hitch and have had absolutely no problems what so ever. The truck doesn't get good mileage (12 towing - 15-16 not towing) but I would probably only replace the Tundra with another one.
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I suggest using an ohms meter and individually check the parallel adapter’s hot, neutral and ground for continuity.
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How often are you greasing you’re zerks?
New Wannabes from SE Texas
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
Congratulations Jim & Francis.
it was great meeting both of you and we look forward to seeing you down the road.