donbob3

The maintenance instructions from Barker is rather sparce -remove 4 screws on cover(part 17419). From parts diagram it looks like the gears are attached to this plate. Has any Oliver owners performed this maintenance (recommended annually). Any additional comments or guidance on how this is done would be greatly appreciated.

Spoke with Factory (Oliver) today. There will be no replacement gaskets. Manufacturer does not consider it to be their problem. I will coat my gaskets tomorrow. I have acquired two sealants: Marineland: acquarium sealant 100% clear silicone rubber -waterproof -harmless to fish. Adheres to rubbers. Liquid Nails Sealant: Clearer than silicone - Clear Seal all purpose sealant - 50 year durability - weatherproof seal - excellent adhesion. Adheres to rubbers. Did not find the DAP Dow Corning product in stock locally. My choice depends on not harming fish or 50 year durability.

My trailer in #140 and was picked up May 5. The porch light gasket is still creating a stain and it will not just wash off. I know that #136 has the same problem. I am hoping that all we have to do with the replacement gasket is remove 2 screws per fixture and install.

I crawled under the trailer yesterday and it was not obvious to me where I could place a floor jack. I am just curious what approach other owners are taking. It looks like a heavy duty bottle jack in conjunction with the front jack and one wheel jack would work but I would prefer a floor jack for its stability (unsure of its placement).

I have an Elite 23 with Dexter EZ-Ride. Dexter says don't put floor jack on round axle. OTT says don't put floor jack under alum frame. Do I use 2 of the built-in jacks or do I use all 3? There seems to be limited places to use the floor jack. Have I missed some guidance in the manual. Any guidance would be appreciated.

I have owned 2 Casita 17's. The 2 user groups have been in existence for years and were valuable in researching their trailers. I don't think either site is affiliated with Casita Enterprises. Is the goal -to have an owner driven site independent of Oliver? I would investigate their sites and not reinvent the wheel.

Is there any description of the water heater by-pass arrangement. I can see a valve on the cold-in line. I guess that I am looking for a valve (either manual or an one-way valve on the hot output line. It would be nice to have the plumbing diagram for the trailer..

Is the search function working? Where is the search box???

I am towing Elite II Hull 140 with a 2016 2wd Tundra. One of the Andersen WD Hitch frame mounts has moved forward. It appears that there is enough space for this. There is a gap at the bottom of the bracket that is wide enough to allow this movement. The set screw is at the top of the bracket. I would have put the screw at the bottom plus add a second. This is where most of the force is applied. Until I get some guidance from either Oliver and/or Andersen, I will not be able to use the hitch. If there are any present remedies to this problem, please let me know. Maybe an aluminum spacer??

Preparing to travel and noticed that one of the brackets under trailer is angled forward about an 1/2 inch. The bracket is bolted to the frame with an set screw on the top side. There is no set screw on the lower side and there is enough play to allow movement. I would appreciate any suggestions. Triangle will not stay perfectly straight. Help???

Thanks for not making fun of my original post. I have had no problems towing with my 2016 Tundra 2wd without the Anderson hitch. No sway problems even on 2 lane roads. The biggest tradeoff is the slight tendency to bounce (rear in). Scale weight 4740, slightly heavier now.

I will pick up trailer May 5 and have the Anderson Hitch installed. If you tow with a Tundra with only the factory hitch, I would appreciate your experience/comments. I have bad back and towed my Casita with F150 with Firestone Air Bag suspension with little problem. My Tundra is 2WD extended cab with built in brake controller and 5.7 V8.