donbob3

I have already bought all the pipe cleaners in NC (about 100). One polish manufacturer indicated that i might use a different wax they had, above the windows, that had a lower water cohesion factor. I am trying to collect some data before I get back with them and try that approach. As a last resort I will get my Saws All and enlarge the weep holes. Just kidding!

Last fall during heavy rains at the Cherokee Rally, I had water coming in on the bottom of side windows of the trailer. When I went outside the surface tension was so strong that no water was exiting from the weep hole. You could drain the water by probing with a knife (I did not have any pipe cleaners then). I had previously been in heavy rains with no problem. The rubber seals had just been removed and cleaned. However I did use a different wax. The wax manufacturer said that the chemicals used to make water roll off the surface would also increase surface tension. Could there be a connection between the wax, inoperative weep hole, and my water intrusion ?? Just some food for thought.

Can anyone describe simply how one removes the drawers under the sink? I have examined the underside and it is not obvious how you go about removing them.

see current thread under mechanical and tech tips.

If you have an accident, your insurance company will no doubt check the towing specifications/requirements for your year/model tow vehicle. Most 1500 tow vehicles have a requirement for a weight distributing (not a weight bearing) hitch if the weight on the ball is greater than 500 pounds. For F250's, 2016s had this requirement in their Tow Guide. The 2017 guide did remove this requirement. My 2017 F250 appears to have a class 5 hitch. From the Drawtite Site: Class V hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 12,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1200 lbs. A Class V hitch has a 2-1/2" square receiver opening. Class V hitches attach to the vehicle frame only. A weight distributing hitch will give you better handling and ride. I chose a WCH because of back problems.

Thanks for the tip. I will pick some pipe cleaners today.

will install pipe cleaners on weep holes. Good idea.

Bill thanks for the moral support. No doubt about it, leaks are depressing.

My trailer is a 2016 Elite 2 which I keep under a carport. Last week the window tracks were cleaned. During my trip to the Cherokee rally (it rained 2 hours on way up and 1st 2 days of rally) I had water coming out of the chrome belly band on both twin beds. In addition, clothes in closet were damp. The window tracks contained water but would not drain unless I broke the surface tension of the weep holes with a knife. The tracks were cleaned the prior week. I plan on checking the ac gasket from inside. I will check rear cabinet for water. Then I will start resealing running lights, camera, fan, and anything else above midline. It was a blowing rain. Because of the double hull I am not sure that visible water may actually be coming in somewhere else. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated..

I have owned stick-built trailers , Forest River popup, Trailmanor foldup, 2 x Casitas, and Oliver 23. I have not loss any sleep after buying the Oliver. It addresses all the deficiencies of the Casitas: larger beds, more storage, no rivets and more counter space. It is the most stable trailer i have owned. It will be the last RV I purchase. I use to vacuum the casita after each trip. Would find sawdust in floors from vibration.Tow with 2017 F250 gas. Definition of RV: always in a perpetual state of repair (thanks Dometic )

I know it is a little late to respond however my progressive dynamics will not trip on if it does not find a valid negative ground.

I have 2017 F250 that has the backup assist (9 cameras) and look-back blind spot mirrors. They were 2 of the most expensive options. They are well worth the cost. Cameras have zoom.

I have a 17 F250 2WD crew cab. I got the 6.2 v8 with 3.73 rear end. Previous tow vehicle was a Tundra ( which is a great tow vehicle). My reasons for getting the 250 were 1. class 5 hitch - built-in sway control : Anderson not legally required. I have a back problem. 2. Safety equipment. Has look-back mirrors and radar in tail lamps. The older I get, the more careless I am. 3. Has 9 cameras which make backing up and hitching by myself a breeze. Cameras do have zoom. 4. 6.2 uses older technology, but it is reliable. Tundra had 4:30 rear end and 5.7 V8. 5. Bigger brakes, axles, tires, and wt carrying capacities. The negatives are: 1. Bigger turning radius. 2.Parking spaces may be tight. 3. Rides hard. I believe the new Chevys offer the same capabilities. Came with tow hooks.

Horace, I isolated the wire going to the front stabilizer jack. The cover is hard. the gauge is bigger than 12. I got one of those quick splicers to attach a second line. They are nylon/plastic and clip shut and have a metal fence that contacts the two wires when you shut the gate. The biggest one from Lowes is not large enough. How did you splice the lines?

Specifically, where did you tie in to 12 volt circuit and ground? I do have a rear camera. I would have thought you would have it in the rear storage bin in order to get to that circuit?

I am installing a TPMS Signal Booster in the Propane Tank compartment. Where should I attach the positive red wire and the negative ground wire? Should I incorporate a switch. Is there any documentation from Oliver for the junction box behind the rear jack controls?

There may have been a change in the length of the steel support bar on the suspension! This is why I want guidance from Jason.

The reason that I consider this to be a "big deal" is that I have had stress cracks in the skin of a prior owned fiberglass trailer that I think came from torquing the frame. Removing tires is basic to every Oliver. We should have clear guidance from the company.

Is anyone using the trailer aid in the previous post with a ez-flex equipped trailer?

I think it is unacceptable that OTT can not provide us with simple guidance for jack placement/use for 1) changing or rotating tires. 2) changing out flat tires. 3) doing routine wheel bearing maintenance. I am taking the trailer to a local shop next week to have the wheel bearings checked/repacked. I have owned my trailer #140 May 2016 and I am baffled that this issue has not been put to rest. I would hope that Jason would take 5 min and update the University regarding this issue. If I don't get some guidance from him, I am going to use some large rubber air bladders filled with helium. Putting them inside the trailer. Lastly. I love my Oliver trailer and consider it to be the best dang trailer I have owned. And I have owned a bunch and this is my last one.

I have a Winegard Sensar 3 with their Wingman - home version - cost about $40. Has 110 amp. I use a quick connect and put the amp in the line in the back cabinet. Remove it when I use cable. The antenna is supported with 2 pieces of tubing on Sat tripod. Replaced Jensen with 110 Samsung - (with sound bar) about same size and weight. Much better picture. Also carry Sirius table radio. Takes about 3 min to set up.

Has anyone had any experience with adding a sway bar - the u shaped bar that connects the body to the axle?? If yes, how did it affect handling?

Raised front of trailer to drain fresh water tank. It took forever to drain (small stream). Definitely recovered several gallons. The tilting of trailer was not discussed in the winterization video. Meter now shows 6%.

I will try raising front of trailer, however I have bike rack attached to back frame which extends about 3 feet. I would rather not get involved in removing rack.

Above is true, when I check fresh tank monitor, it is showing 10% usage. I was concerned that draining the fresh tank via valve on floor still was leaving water in tank even after the tank pick-up mod. Thanks for your comment.