DanielBoondock

Great comments thanks. This part is interesting because it does have a standard over pressure valve just above the filter housing. Do older Trumas not have this? Otherwise great tip about the antifreeze unit, I had it in there full time

Not sure of the exact situation from the information given, but here’s some commentary Using the induction on battery The induction will only pull full 1.8kW when both burners are on full power. The smaller one is limited to 8/10 vs 10/10 of the bigger to meet this spec. With my 3k inverter and the max lithium I can only use both at full power by themselves, no microwave or other high power devices typically at the same time because tripping the 3k is easily possible. But you have a 2k, the reason you can’t get full use out of the 2k is twofold I believe. One is code (for buildings) limits you to I think 80% of full spec for wiring. It depends on various factors like if it’s in conduit or whatnot. But the idea is there’s a difference between continuous high draw and momentary. EV’s for example, if say drawing 32A Level II charging at home overnight, will actually draw close to 32A for hours. Household wiring and sockets aren’t meant for that and will usually overheat, so they have different specifications. But maybe the wiring is rated for full use, as I do get full power on both while on shore. Two, inverters never seem to give the full rated spec, I think they leave margin for spikes. Again 80% is typical from my experience. Seems like if I get close to 3k it’ll freak. Finally there’s the phantom steady state draw from the rest of the camper, so the inverter needs margin for that. All told, an induction cooktop is much like an EV in that when it wants 1.8kW it will draw a full 1.8k until changed. That’s a high load/high stress situation for a camper. So it’s not surprising that a 2k inverter may not support both burners on full. I rarely to never use both mine on full with my 3k, it’s too easy to trip! I use the main burner on full, and if I need to simultaneously use the second one for say boiling some water, I just do it at a lower setting and it takes a little longer. But who cares? Induction is way faster than gas any day of the week so it takes about as long as gas. Breaker The LEII has a 15A dedicated breaker for the stove as you’d expect Stove top not doing anything If there’s zero response from the stovetop - pressing on (which uses no power) doesn’t turn it on than this is a problem. Most likely issue is a tripped breaker. Induction is definitely 120V not 12V feed. Anyhow the induction is a game changer IMO. No toxic gas danger, no condensation from the propane burning, no fire risk, faster, cleaner and better. But you have to know how to work with it as it’s a very high power device. I don’t think it’s a deficiency that the 2k won’t support full power on both burners, that’s ‘by design’. it’s the same reason you can’t run AC, wave and stove at the same time. You pay for the inverter size you wanted. So I wouldn’t worry about that, even at a reduced setting it’s still going to boil water faster than propane.

No worries, thanks yeah I did get clued into that trick. Worked great, the suspension quieted right down. Still a little creaky, suspecting the leaves are rubbing or maybe there’s a bit of grease missing somewhere. I noticed on the Alcan page they smartly put poly rub pads on the end of the leaves to avoid this. Well we’ll be in the neighborhood this summertime (roughly) so I set up an appointment to get fitted at Alcan. Full hog five leaf, who am I to argue with them? And I was thinking about when camping we’re going over weight anyhow with all the tanks and people in it. Plus I generally agree with having some extra margin and IIRC Alcan believes 20% is the right amount so OK.

Looks like you also got a branded cover add-on too. That’s nice, I need to get a cover

It’s just a normal roller shade, nothing unique to Oliver, so doing a general web search on roller shades might help. Mine are working fine but I think (remembering to when I’ve used them before) if it’s kinda stuck just pull down to the bottom of the window to reset the mechanism. Regarding “the others retract to at least 3/4 of the way up” - I think you mean they leave 1/4 hanging when fully retracted? That’s not right, all of mine only leave an inch or two of the shade hanging. Anyhow so far been trouble free for me. The design has been around forever, seems like an early 20th century invention, anyhow should be easy to work with. No, interesting it has an even longer history

… another idea, hard mount regular panels to the bed rails on the trick if you’re configured like that, and have that charge an Ecoflow. So top off the Ecoflow pro and use that to top off the house. That’s exactly what I do boondocking using the 220 kWh traction battery, minus the solar

Don’t need it myself since I drive electric, but if I wasn’t I still I doubt I’d do it. A lot of bother, have to be around so sticky fingers doesn’t walk off with it, and as @jd1923 sez it’s just more stuff, and big clumsy stuff too. Getting this rig pared down to the essentials has been a major project. I’d do this instead Try to optimize the roof solar charging opportunities if possible Possibly upgrade the house batteries (you have a recent vintage but don’t know what you’ve got on board) Most likely would be to instead get a backup source, it’s awfully handy to just charge off the truck one way or another Ecoflow Delta Pro has a TT-30 plug so you can top off the house batteries directly Or just get one of the 120V regular versions and find some creative uses of it My 2c … Sells how, do they have a web store? Not coming up with anything …

Ugh, no thanks, I’m retiring from having to work in an office building, why would I want to take one on the road?

On further thought, actually no. I doubt any of the pump ideas you mention would work, in my description above I mention that this high powered pump is just doing the job. It’s pumping slower than the spec. I’d only go with this one personally. Yeah I researched these on the forum. The sink option didn’t seem to do a lot for me. The pee bottle diversion would be a big benefit, with three of us (wife and adult son) we need to empty it several times a day. And now Natures Head has this option making it easy https://natureshead.net/multi-directional-urine-diverter-kit/ But that would involve some drilling and a permanent solution, not ready to go there as this trailer isn’t yet three months old. So I just bought a couple extra bottles.

I’m unhappy with the outdoor shower. The knobs are hard to get to, the line is short and the control handle is clumsy with the ‘stay on’ option. I want something that I can attach hoses to wash the bugs off the truck and camper. I’ve looked into something more extensive - there are ones that include quick hose disconnects, but I won’t do anything that drastic this year or maybe never. And anyhow I’m not happy with any of them. OK, can I adapt the existing solution? 304 Stainless steel garden hose Adapter Bathroom shower tube to garden hose adapter, 3/4" GHT male to 1/2" G (1/2"IPS) male, lead-free, shower to garden hose adapter This just test fitting, I recommend using teflon tape. Shown is the adapter and my favorite Blutech quick adapter … so that I can attach a Real Man’s spray head 😅 But what about more length? Now that it’s hooked into my quick adapter system easy peasy Shown with a short hose, I can hook any of my hoses into this. This is a concept test but it works and I love it. To be decided is how to prevent the hose from disappearing in the hole. Most likely I’ll put a proper reverse fitting and quick connect on the existing sprayer so that’s the default setup. But it then can be quickly removed and reconfigured for whatever I’m trying to do. TBD …

The macerator isn’t relevant, I chose this one because it’s made for this purpose and has a sewer line adapter built in. Cost isn’t a consideration for me but obviously you can do it any way you wish These are all 12V except for the floor lights which are 24, they can be converted to 12V easily and I’m considering it. I prefer Hue and IMO they’re entirely suitable for mobile. The lamps are the perfect size on this trailer for example, but again it’s a free country 🙂

For the composters out there … what about that black tank, can we move grey to black? Experiment … Shopping list Flojet Macerator Pump 18555-000A - 12V DC Waste Pump for Camper/RV RESTMO Water Flow Meter with Brass Inlet Twinkle Star Hose Filter Attachment Line Water Hose Filter Water hose quick connects Garden hose Goal: Transfer from grey to black utilizing the black flush out inlet port. I’d rather not make more drastic changes to the trailer so let’s see if this works Attempt #1 The pump comes with a quick switch which is handy, its sitting near the Jackery. I got a 12V cig line and used the included pump battery alligator clips to attach to that. Results: Unsuccessful, the Jackery 12V kept turning off so I kept hitting the 12V switch. The flow meter showed no transfer, but water did flow. The pump was running and the orange hose did fill up with water, but it seemed there was little transfer occurring. First I tested the flow meter to see if it was working on a fresh water outlet, it’s fine so there’s just not much flow happening. OK, so I got a 120VAC-12VDC adapter I had handy and used the 120V on the Jackery (you can see the adapter there) but that was even less successful. Conclusion: Probably not enough power. Now how can I get more power into this pump? I looked at the truck, nah too much trouble and maybe not enough line. Do I have a spare battery around? How much does the 12V outlet on the truck supply? I’ve got 7kW out the back (electric truck), maybe a higher power inverter? Or how much can the Oliver 12V cig sockets output? I looked up musing on this problem, looked at the side of the trailer, and wondered “how many engineers does it take to change a lightbulb?” The answer was right there in front of me, embarrassing, the pump even comes with battery alligators …. 🤯😅 Attempt #2 Success! The flow rate seemed a little low compared to the rated GPM. I took a video and will calculate, maybe the resistance through the cleanout jets reduces it. In theory this will stress the pump, but it’s not something being used all the time and I kept an eye on how warm the pump got. Seemed fine … So I’ll take this as a viable solution. Far less space than hauling along a today. There was no solids being caught by the filter. I try to keep solids out of the grey but anyhow not an issue. Good enough for today, I closed up shop Future direction: the only problem is having a neat solution. The lines are filled with residual water you don’t want around the campsite. A bucket (I have a collapsable with lid that’ll work great), or no leak quick connects (if such a think exists) maybe too. KISS, I think I like the bucket solution better. Overall it’s a small tidy package. The whole thing can be stored in the bumper if you take the pump out of its case. But it’s a really nice case with real latches, so I keep that in the back storage and the rest of it in the bumper.

Hey I just got it and already did a Tennessee trip this year! 😅 Anyhow still working, close to retirement so one big trip is all that can be managed

Nope, doesn’t happen. The truck was absolutely coated with goo several times and the Ollie nose, but the windows literally get nothing, not even any dirt to speak of. The front edge of the outdoor power socket and edge of the Truma door get it though. The windows have been trouble and maintenance free in over 3k miles. Pro tip to make them even more maintenance free is to SiO2 them. Water beads and runs off beautifully too, I use Griots Garage SiO2 window treatment. It’s not as serious as a full body coat, less concentrated, but it’ll last 3-6 months. Hey even the Secret Service uses it on the Beast.

Well maybe it was done in some past year but AFAIK 2026 is unique in that it I think is the only one with ‘crack open’ flush mount windows and roller shades, with valances on the top. Plus the long running Truma integrated system. One year only and boom - take it all out and go to a fully open window with new (presumably custom Oliver designed) shade frame. And too all new appliances. And yes the 2027 windows look like the same ones in the 2026 just with a different opening mechanism. This year's model opens a couple inches from a single handed center crank. Next year it looks like you open all the shades (including bug shade!) to access two side props in a two handed operation. So none of that at night half asleep. But the window does a 1/8 or 1/4 open. Otherwise it looks like the same window which is not recessed and overlays the windows frame and shell. It’s zero issue. Not sure there’s any more glass protection slightly recessed as previously or overlay as now. On the road debris will follow the air flow regardless. If anything recessed will create a slight low pressure pulling it in with vortices and such. Anyhow the only protection is the present overlay system as that protects the more vulnerable frame and especially gasket. It’s maintenance free whereas the present one has weep holes and such. I love the new window system and was ecstatic when I heard it was coming on the year I happened to be buying. It was long on my list, Escape pioneered this in eggs and I learned about the style there (except they use acrylic windows). For Oliver it completes the ‘marine style’ design. The only exposed gaskets they have now are the 120V socket and a few odds and ends like the roof gubbins.

These ones you mean, the 2026 (only) variant? Or maybe you’re talking about the previous up to 2025 model. No worries doesn’t bother me, but I’d suggest it’s hard to know for sure unless you live with them. The only point I’m making is that the single handed opening is awfully nice. The crack does what it’s supposed to - let in plenty of air, and just the single knob means waking up at night because it’s gotten too cold it’s trivial to close while still half asleep. I do it all the time - love it. And also appreciate how the valances soften the interior. I will agree however that the roller shades are a little clumsy, you can knock into them at night. But it’s a classic look that softens up all the plastic and ‘glass IMO. Anyhow I’m just surprised they switched so quickly. Only people I’ve heard complain about the ‘26 windows was a tech at the factory who wanted them ‘to open wider’. Except he didn’t own one so 🤷‍♂️ They’re basically flush and no issues with wind. In fact I’ve driven at freeway speeds having forgotten and left them open 😅 but no problem. The key though is hidden gaskets. Oliver uses a marine design elsewhere is that the gaskets are hidden, like with the battery door. This is how they do it on boats, to keep gaskets out of the H20, salt and UV. I’ve seen videos where owners replace the recessed window gaskets with black ones because they pick up dirt and wear. Oh - cars too, notice how few of the gaskets on your cars are exposed - same design principle. Have the door/hood/whatever cover them where possible. But no worries they’re all good, we’re just nerding out here 🙂 Yeah I was diagnosing a user error and did a deep dive into it. Turns out Xantrex has been heavily iterating over the years, the latest version in the 2026 and presumably 2027 is not the same as earlier versions by a long shot. There’s two types of engineering failure I think - just bad engineering and ‘learning’ engineering. Personally I’m not faulting Truma for the recall issue, I don’t think that casts a shadow on them in general. Heck I bossed a German engineering team in Germany once, these guys are nuts and have a lot of pride. I think the fault is other RV OEM’s who didn’t do a recall like Oliver. And on Xantrex the number of iterations makes me suspect they just had a learning curve to go through. Bad engineering are the companies that just don’t learn and don’t iterate. Anyhow hoping to have good service with Truma and Xantrex. On Lithionics I believe in the company, watch some of the factory walkthroughs, they’re serious about this. Lots of fly-by-night companies doing batteries out there. We’re paying for the BMS and prismatic pouches, not some guys throwing a bunch of cylinders in there like everybody else.

Yeah exactly the tiny drawer in front of the sink. Shorter because the sink takes the depth. I was keeping cleaning supplies there but was kind of wasted as that was just for storing them while traveling. Anyhow I’ve since put the collapsable buckets and cleaning stuff in another drawer leaving this one. Not much else you can do with it but easy and perfect for the spices. I guess you could use it for bigger utensils, but I have the Foy utensils divider which takes everything. Problem is regular spice jars are too tall, I was using the OXO camping spice kit, but then that’s kicking around. So happy to find these slightly undersized ones.

Spice drawer! Surely somebody figured this out but here's my solution, 3 oz jars. Stainless lids and nice thick glass. Holds 1/2-3/4 of a typical store bought which is plenty. There are the only ones I could find that fit height wise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KX8S1Z7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797LHWYK

my 2c That Dometic cabin heater style exhaust can have issues at high elevations I believe, there's a high elevation exhaust you should install when in the mountains (according to videos I've seen on this type - may not be true for this model). I've got an unused one if 2027 owners want one 🙂 "Soft main cabin lights" - did they change that? Anyhow actinic bright overheads on the main cabin fan, I'd rather do without Ironically they show the new solar awnings in partial shade which takes down the whole panel, unless they have a sectioned panel with micros (unlikely). I think getting to deploy these and work will be the main issue. Anyhow I'm surprised at how well that 400W does, doing 1.2kWh on a good day easy Why did they change the front (and rear?) jack? Personally I prefer the old one, 500 lb upgrade isn't much to speak of and not font of bubble switches. The older one looks better and more businesslike IMO More accurate tank readings is a big plus Mentioned before I'm not fond of the 'fully open' style new window. Looks like you have to open the screens potentially letting bugs in (and they'll do it!), plus two handed operation. Fully open is nice for a house but don't see the need here, just IMO Anyhow looks like a great trailer as usual and it's not sour beans because I bought a 26, but full honestly I do prefer this years model, except on the tank monitering

Probably the single most useful thing I got, maybe these are already know to the community Antimbee Transparent Heavy Duty Clear Suction Cups https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B67TRPMX Incredibly handy to be able to slap these on any nearby wall. Most you find are heavy duty but the fit with the decor perfectly For example as a towel dry

Good point and fortunately it turns out it’s all 12V except the 24V floor lights. I’m with you, additionally my piano is 12V so I’m on a mission to convert everything to simplify the wiring

I have the same setup. The factory had set the low voltage cutoff to 11.1, but their documentation specifies 12.1. I assumed it was an error and bumped to 12.1. Previously I could run two appliances simultaneously but now only one. I’m guessing that 11.1 might be stressing the battery Your LBCO was 11.5? That’s odd. At any rate I’m not sure that’s your problem, sounds like a different error condition. Also I recommend calling Xantrex customer support directly, they’re GREAT. 1-800-670-0707 The guy I talked to knew exactly my problem and finished my sentence for me. Then proceeded to tell me some hilarious stories 😅

Here’s my solution External to the trailer so no winterizing issues. UV plugs into the exterior power socket.

Got my tire pressure monitors installed today at a family run local shop, here’s how the pros do it. Just outside the picture are two stands on either side, not touching the trailer but ‘just in case’ as he said Pretty awesome having all this info now

It’s mainly the height for me. Completely agree with the benefit of a narrow body. My truck doesn’t have a towing mirror option but these work just fine. I’m 6’4, my son is 6’5+, the bed length was a major concern sight unseen. But oddly it’s not at all a problem. The bed is super comfortable and I have enough room, I never think about it. Well occasionally I’ll scootch down the bed a bit and notice my feet are hitting, but that’s an easy recenter. Can’t figure it, this isn’t suppose to work 🤷‍♂️