DanielBoondock

I’ve been kicking around doing Starlink. Next year after retirement from job 1 it can be a business expense for job 2, but I’m not really wanting to do it. Only if it makes life easier. Various long term Ytuber users have mentioned the hardware doesn’t last long, so my first concern is long term reliability - what’s your experience? Second is convenience, ideally I don’t want to fuss with poles and whatnot. DC fridge Olivers have the outdoor table and this nifty solution from the factory, and they dropped the coax connectors that could have been converted to ethernet or whatever the mini needs (oh I guess the mini now just needs power, cool) Back there to the left is an outlet for the induction, so I can plug the power into that. I can run an ethernet cable potentially through the walls up to my main router. The opening is 12”x7” so if I’m lucky I might be able to store the mini in there too. So I’m wondering whats the best way to mount this? I have a fold up ladder I like to bring along, maybe just a suction cup roof mount is the way to go, how well would that work with tree cover? Thoughts/ideas welcome …

The all wood is stunning, one day I’d like to do that.

Good, because I never took Statics! 😅 My story kind of similar to yours from a different direction - Physics PhD then also went to HP back in the good old days (when Bill and Dave were still around) doing CS/EE. Jack of all trades master of none basically. Anyhow the only fundamental basis I could see for airing down was based on an old chart that Goodyear doesn’t appear publish anymore, probably because of this reason that it’s the OEM’s business to set a spec. But I think a sound approach is to approach it as tuned frequency bands. Engineering hand waving - but that’s what we do half the time anyways, but my intuition tells me you’re losing more than you gain by airing down. But I’m convinced that the Wisdom of the Crowd prevailed with Alcan.

I have to work on the road and the dinette is taken over by a piano keyboard. Most of my work on the iPad but I need to use a laptop which is on the bed, but cable and peripheral management is a pain, but I found a small mod, hide the electronics under the bed with a Froli system street side bed Turns out typical power supplies and smaller electronics like SSD’s and a Thunderbolt hub you see here fit perfectly under the Froli springs. Add in the anti-dew matting and there’s plenty of airflow, plus it keeps your bed warm 😅 The Froli’s lift the bed up a good amount, it was so low before as to be somewhat claustrophobic. With the matting it doesn’t add much except oddly makes it a bit firmer, which is good with these overly squishy mattresses IMO. Anyhow in the lower right is a small power strip, so all that emerges is a plug to the nearby socket. Two cables (power and thunderbolt) tuck next to the mattress, add in a lap table and it can instantly be setup to work. I was hiding this stuff in the battery cubby but its was messy with cables snaking out.

I need to work on the road, the dinette is too small and is taken over by a piano anyhow Sorry for the late reply missed this … The OEM recommendations (Oliver in this case) always override the tire manufacturer, Oliver’s spec is 65. We can argue if that’s a good spec on first principles but I don’t think we can or should use a generic recommendation from Goodyear Yes absolutely, but it’s different systems working together. The suspension will do its job and ideally filter a different band than what the tire filters - that’s my point. If they overlap then you’ve got suckouts in your coverage, whats the point of that? Excellent! I was wondering if somebody would catch this. Well since we don’t have data its all handwaving, but my expectation is that a properly sprung Alcan would have a higher frequency extension, which would make the case for higher PSI. Basically Statics 101 tells you that undersprung == lower natural frequency Yeah its pretty clogged up. This is kind of my blog and I treat it as such so 🤷‍♂️

From a different forum where I posted an estimation of towing costs, for the Oliver of EV versus Diesel, using today’s prices. The Unit Cost is the averaged national average for both, and of course while fuel costs are highly variable, charging base cost doesn’t change, except there are various discounts. For example GM keeps giving me $50 free charging credits, they run sales (Ionna ran a Labor Day sale of something like 20 cents/kWh), but AFAIK fuel never goes on sale. Also this is just for towing trips, when at home of course you’ll charge off whatever your rate it, basically free for me with lots of solar. Metric Diesel Truck Electric Truck Baseline Efficiency (Unladen) ~18.0 MPG ~2.0 miles / kWh Efficiency with 40% Loss 10.8 MPG 1.2 miles / kWh Total Energy Required 370.4 gallons 3,333.3 kWh Assigned Unit Cost $6.00 / gallon $0.40 / kWh Total 4,000-Mile Cost $2,222.22 $1,333.33

The shoulder I was talking about was on the inner side, between the spring and hanger, caused by the inner bronze bearing. Anyhow I checked with Gemini which is pretty good for these kinds of things since it primarily trolls the internet I think we may be onto something - this feels correct and may have already been discussed (apologies if it has). So Dexter is trying to prevent over torquing and binding. Alcan solves it by being a stickler for torque and Nylock. I’ll take Alcan and argue with Dexters approach. Stepping down doesn’t prevent anything, a monkey can still over torque and bind it up. Can’t prevent installation error with that one IMO.

So do you leave them loosened up, or do you loosen and retorque every time you grease? … never mind, I see below you fixed it by using Dexter, makes sense. I can’t imagine being able to do that, these are monster, I’d have to check but at least 1/4 plate. Maybe they changed the brackets in the last 1000 hulls I get that, but any way you cut it it’s mechanically weaker and can’t take as much torque. The only advantage I can see is easier installation which may well be the reason.

No can’t make it unfortunately, I’m way out on the West Coast so it’s a relatively major trip. Yeah have been poring over the threads but not sure what to make of it. Mixing threads a bit sorry but since I’m in a post will put out some thoughts on the wet bolts. This is all eyeball as I don’t have my caliper with me. The spring end bolts with splines have a good <1/4” spacing between the hanging brackets and the spring. So the wet bolts are held in place by torque pressure and (maybe) splines (my splines aren’t doing anything here).On the shackle side there’s no splines but again its a (bit less) torque and nylock holding it together. So that’s it AFAIK, Alcan relies on torque and beefyness. What about end rub? Something I haven’t seen mentioned is that the inner (bronze?) wear bearing at each end of the spring has a protruding shoulder. So, just as it wears against the bolt body, so too on the bold ends with respectively the hanger or the shackle - in both cases greased. I don’t see an issue with this design as it seems eminently sensible. All the wear surfaces are against the bronze bushing both against the bolt and against the hanger or shackle. Torque/nylock keeps it all together. Summarizing Alcan Thick wall radial bronze bushing Prominent protruding bronze rub shoulder against hanger/shackle on all springs Full sized bolts (no step down) Nylock Dexter Thin wall (half size?) radial bushing Inconsistent rub shoulder, from none basically to just a minor extension Step down bolts (why why why size your nut under your bolt? Dunno, I’m new to this stuff but I see nothing but better with Alcan and not seeing anything that bothers me

Can you tell us here, what specifically? Also what did you learn about the wear?

You definitely are one, I asked to double check my math as we make these kinds of mistakes all the time. Long time ago I worked on a probe that went to Mars, except it didn’t because of a math glitch (not mine 😅) I’ve got a Dremel, too much hogging for me, would have been a good idea to bring along though. I’ll just drill out, it’s only 1/32 larger on each side which is well within tolerance. Don’t have my right angle but will check how it is with the impact in drill mode Yes I called it out at the end of the post - am I missing something? The picture shows it now with a rough fit, I didn’t do anything special yet and am planning on making sure it’s aligned before final torque (this was just how I left it after the hard work). But thanks for emphasizing the point, I’ll make sure to keep good tolerances

OK, check me on this So each bolt side has a diameter 1/16 bigger, 8/16 to 9/16 The radius therefore is 1/32 larger That’s the increase on the inner side (facing axel) and outer, each So each new hole is 1/32 farther away from the old hole Between the two holes it’s therefore 1/16 larger, not 1/8 If I’m doing my Imperial right, by training I’m a metric guy 😅 Regardless of moving each hole 1/8 or 1/16 any drill bit would wander, I’d need an end mill I think - what did you use? Anyhow these have big washers, the tire side holes are big ovals anyhow so I’m not going to worry about it And yes on the spacing thanks, aware of that, this is just the rough fit

Here’s what I mean, there’s precious little room left anyhow, at best I can widen it up a step from 1/2” to 9/16” Interesting to see the bolts stretching already. And these do so on the sides while the stock ones flattened out on the top bend

Yeah that’s what OTT is using and we just kind of went with it, me not knowing any better. Now $180 later … anyhow I’ll be much happier with 90 on 9/16, this 65 just ain’t cutting it. On the plates the hole spacing is already correct at 3” - those 1/2” are holding it together right now (remember OTT now has 5200 axels as standard). I think you upgraded your axels at the same time if I recall? Yes you mention still having the 3500 axels. In that case it sounds like you were using plates from the smaller axel for the larger so they’d need new holes. In this case I may (he said it depends it might be fine, its pretty close) just need to enlarge them a bit. So a 9/16” bit would center on the hole and just hog it out somewhat. I’ll put some anti-rust on it before buttoning up.

Aiieeeeeeee!!!! Just called Alcan for a quick ship of eight new 9/16” bolts. OTT is still going on the low side with these suspensions and installing 1/2” on a 3” 5200 which is specced to 1750. I’ve got five leaf Alcan’s on the the same 5200 axels so should have gone 9/16” but it got lost in translation. Yeah I kept looking at those bolts against the springs/axels and especially that torque setting feels way too low. Anyhow they are helpful as usual, he thought I was right on to upgrade the bolts. He mentioned by the way that Oliver is only using Alcan on the Apex - the others are business as usual. He also warned me that the plate will need to be widened a bit to accept the larger bolts. I asked about how much work this would be - should I disassemble? He suggested just doing one bolt at a time. Told him that’s what I wanted to do but worried it was too much redneck mechanic - to which he said “well that must be what we are because that’s what we do!” 😅 So easy upgrade Thanks @jd1923 for helping on that, wouldn’t have caught it without checking your torque number

Wut? Here’s my spec sheet My U-Bolts are 1/2” on 5200 axels. They had said most Olivers use 7/16” u-bolts but checking mine turned out to be the 1/2 which is 65 ft-lbs. 90 would be 9/16” - is that what you got? Ahhhhh dang - yup, looking over my emails that’s what Alcan recommended, 9/16. But OTT installed 1/2” and so that’s what we went with. I’d feel a more comfortable with the 9/16, 65 on 1/2 is too low. I’ll call them and order a new set, grrrrr ….

I Good because that’s where I’m headed! 😅 Agree with all your points, and also I like the self reliance. That’s the idea with this for me, having independence. And now instead of being a mystery I’m confident and aware of what the suspension is doing and know what to look out for.

Question: I’ve got 65 ft/lbs on 1/2” u-bolts. Not doubting them but it seems light (I accidentally manually tightened past that on initial setup), probably back in this thread but anybody put a backing nut on it (if there’s thread), witness marks or loctite?

Glad I didn’t disappoint 😅 Not a problem anymore but we’ve been over that. But it’s all good, whatever rocks your boat. Actually that too - 2024/25 Silverado EV’s (same platform different front end) are coming off lease and rentals, people are getting them at great prices. But yeah apples to apples you’ll pay an extra 4-6k or something. You’ll save in fuel/service total cost of ownership pretty quickly with gas prices as they are, but granted people tend to be more sensitive to sticker price.

Problem solved. I hoped (but didn’t expect) that maybe when I did the other side it would settle in, but it did and looking good! All four done, wheels torqued but I’ll save the final torque suspension for tomorrow when I’m rested, then take it for a few test drives. Street side started going really fast but then ran into some drama, an axel slipped off its jack (why didn’t I strap that to the jack?) then the very last bolt was a troublemaker. The Dexter bolts are sized down at the very end for a smaller nut. Weakest link in a chain kind of thing, but it does make it much easier to mount - the Alcan are same size throughout so alignment is more critical. Anyhow after moving the jacks a million times taking pressure off here and there finally got it done. A lot of work! Definitely a job where the right tools make the difference. Having a lot more jacks would have helped (also working on pavement, at my brother in law’s in the dirt as I can easily keep it hitched and work in peace.) Oh and guess what? One of the old shocks is dead. Bought this in March so only six months old 🙄

Did the curbside yesterday. Took longer than I expected so it’s two days overall. Went fine once I figured out the tricks. The one thing is the springs (or at least one) center top, where the center tie bolt of the spring goes into a centering hole on the cradle plate, isn’t quite sitting flush. I haven’t torqued everything down yet and I’m not sure why it’s not fully nestled in there yet. Hoping that once I do the other side it’ll all settle out, but if anybody has an idea.

Before making your decision spend some time test driving the Denali or AT4 EV. Seriously - just take some test drives, why not? GM is so gung-ho on EV’s because their data shows 4 out of 5 people, once you get them in an EV, never go back. As a tow vehicle you’ll find that it kills everything else. Uphill more torque/power than every other truck out there, and downhill you don’t use your brakes and it all regenerates into the battery. As for squat it has independent rear coil suspension (one motor per axel no transmission) so it’s minimal, under an inch. Add a little bit of WD and there’s none. Regarding adaptive ride, the Denali EV has airbag suspension which adapts height. It doesn’t have the adaptable shock absorbers, but with an entirely different suspension design (independent coils) I don’t think it needs it. You also get rear steer, it has the turning radius of a small compact like the Bolt. Parking lots are a breeze. Not to mention the software and interior tech …

I took 5-6 years to make a choice. Started Oliver, went through the Airstreams, Escapes to Bigfoot, and almost last minute fortunately went back to Oliver which was the absolute right choice. I’ve only become happier with it as times gone on. But unfortunately during that period the price got seriously jacked up. Originally I think it was running in the 60’s which was fine but now is over 100k. On the good side it was worth the wait, the only two features I wanted in the trailer was an induction stove and frameless windows - both which happened to drop in 2026 when we were buying. More luck, the ‘27’s dropped the valances, roller shades and single control windows which I prefer. So it was the right time for us regardless of the price. As for value the nearest competitor is Airstreams which are roughly the same price. But there you get (crummy IMO) manual awnings, no battery with little upgrade options, 2kW inverter IIRC, no compost option (LOVE THE COMPOST TOILET lol …) and a trailer which leaks. As many Airstreamers have said “it WILL leak”. As for pizzaz the Airstreams are awfully cool to look at, but so is the Oliver. Not a lot in the West and I constantly get compliments “that’s the prettiest little trailer I’ve seen”. Under the hood the Oliver is just superior in every way too. Not looking down my nose on Airstream - I wanted to buy at one point, but being an engineer I looked deep into them and they’re consumer grade honestly.

Speaking of agree/disagree, I initially disagreed with Alcan but came over 100% eventually. On tire pressures it was opposite, I started as receptive but have concluded the opposite. Here's why with I think a reasonably accurate technical assessment of road vibration absorption in the suspension You can think of the vibration in frequency bands, low/mid/high. In the clip above you can see mainly low. Little hard but there's a few places with a gentle change in the road and there's a corresponding response in the leaf springs of something under a 1/2hertz say. It bounces basically. This is all in the 1-20 Hz range according to research I've read. The leaf springs job is to absorb this, and from watching I can see they're doing the job. Up from there it's mostly short impulse bumps like a pothole. I'll try to upload a video of that. This comes from transit time over a pothole, say 1' wide hole (big 'un) @ 50 mph. The two edges of the hole are approximately at an 80 Hz low band frequency from the tire transit time over the hole. This is probably the highest frequency you'll see on the road. So we're talking 0-100 Hz (rounding up) frequency band that the suspension needs to manage. Note this 1' pothole is an extreme example to find the boundary, going 50mph over one would not be fun. Consulting research on tire under inflation performance and getting an AI summary of the research. The point of this is that So the point is but going with lower inflation's you're simply shifting the frequency response around, at the cost of higher wear, lower mileage and greater tire stress. A higher inflation damps 50+ Hz (e.g. potholes), lower inflation's shifts it 50- which is exactly what the leaf springs and Ez-Flex are for. From watching on my trip I saw the Ez-Flex only engage on serious potholes, so that system is designed for the higher band. But what about the highest frequencies? Clearly the suspension isn't going to help with 50Hz up, what does it? A higher inflation tire. In summary ... Consulting sources then here's our lineup 0-10 Hz Leaf springs 10-50 Hz Dexter Ez-Flex (per their spec) 30-100 Hz 40 PSI trailer tire (various internet sources and AI summary) 50-250 Hz 65 PSI trailer tire (note a healthy high frequency band not covered elsewhere) So that's all I'll say on it. My position is that going with a lower inflation level of say 40 Hz is simply giving your Ez-Flex a break. I run at the factory 60-65 psi you can see above, and that inflation level shifts the frequency absorption to a region not covered by the rest of the suspension. In addition to the wear/mileage/stress, a lower pressure is counterproductive and leaving the higher frequencies free to transmit to the trailer, exactly what you don't want. I went down this trail to find out what I was seeing, which was at my 65 psi I saw little to no vibration in the trailer and the suspension system handling it all. Again I'll try to provide some clips to illustrate this. No need to go over what's been said before as I've studied those threads, but I'd love to hear a counterargument

For fun here's a clip of the suspension. Unsteady cam as I was hand holding while driving. Most of the trip was like this, pretty uneventful. Like I mentioned it took a good hour of keeping my eye on it for a pattern to emerge, which is the suspension is doing it's job, but it looks undersprung. Also when there is a pothole it just rattles the heck out of the suspension and over all there appears to be very little making it to the trailer. Not seeing any flex or vibrations in the panels. Taking my last trip with the Dexter this week before I install the Alcan. I have a mount setup I think and will try to catch some 'money shots' 😅 SuspensionClip.mp4