Steve Morris

Note that the Mini came with two different socket sizes since its release. Pucks are not interchangeable between the early ant later versions. I use this to mount my Mini on an old unused camera tripod. https://a.co/d/00vsLugU

Unhelpful Update: we just arrived home, and everything works again. 🙄 We’re starting a barn build tomorrow (unfortunately not for Curiosity due to allowable square footage), but when I get a chance, I’ll track down what has to be a loose connection. Thanks for the help, and an update will follow as more information becomes available.

Copy/pasting reply from FB Thanks John. We’re only out for a few days, so I’m going to wait until we get home to try tracking down the fault with my good meter instead of the $10 travel one. I know the fuse is good, because the other lights on the circuit work. Yes, the blue indicator light are what I’m referring to, plus’s the upper cabinet lights. It’s most likely a wire disconnected somewhere. I had the switch panel by the door out, and the access port behind. Tugging on wires didn’t result in anything loose, but it could also be a bad switch. It’s just odd that some indicator lights work and others don’t. And on that the indicators that don’t work, the device they operate do function correctly except the upper cabinets. They all worked two days ago, so something bounced loose or failed while on the road.

Three years ago I wired my LevelMate Pro to the always hot Street Awning switch, and that has worked fine until yesterday. After a drive to our accommodations for the weekend, the LevelMate wouldn’t power up. But the awning did. So apparently, I hooked into the indicator light terminal on the awning switch. Then I realized that several of the switch indicator lights didn’t work, nor did the lights in the upper cabinets. But other indicator lights do work, as do the closet outdoor, and cabinets lights and other interior lights. So, I figured a wire on the indicator light circuit pulled loose, but after pulling out that messy jumble of wires behind the switch panel, I can’t find anything loose. And that wouldn’t explain the cabinet lights not working. The fuse is fine, and is the same fuse as the other cabinet lights. This led me to the possibility that either the indicator lights, the upper cabinet lights, or both, are run in series instead of parallel, like on those impossible to fix Christmas tree lights. The wiring diagrams I have do not go into that detail. Has anyone had upper cabinets light or indicator light problems, and can steer me as to where to look? It isn’t trip critical; just an inconvenience. I’m rewiring the Level Mate to the other leg of the switch. Thanks for any suggestions

Thanks for the details. As I’d mentioned on the FB group, this is the toilet we’ve been considering. I like how you vented it vs what I’d talked about by tying into the black vent. How is the height compared to the OEM flush toilet! We’re both somewhat short. Don’t want legs dangling like a little kid.

I’m not Ron, but I asked the same question before. It is from Flagpole Buddy, and you need the Airstream version with adjustable angle suction cups. They went on sale last Black Friday. https://flagpolebuddy.com/products/ols/products/airstream-suction-cup-mount-kit-g2-g3-g5-or-mini-adapter-poles-mounts-cable-clamps-pole-bag/v/106967-MN

A friend of ours frequently uses an outdoor shower with his teardrop trailer. He has something similar to this underneath to direct the water away from the trailer, and to keep the shower pan clean. Another simply uses a teak shower mat similar to the ones many of us use inside the trailer. I think I'd prefer the first option, so as to not need to store a wet, dirty platform somewhere onboard. https://a.co/d/06PyWIjw

Unless the new 4Ruuner has a *lot* more oomph than my2016 4.0 six cylinder, I’d say nope! You’ll be at or near cargo capacity with the back of the 4R empty. Mine was woefully underpowered with a 3000 pound trailer. I’m currently in a V8 200 series Land Cruiser, and “adequate” is generous with the EII trailer. I’d never go near the western mountains. Maybe switch up to a V8 Tundra or Sequoia? Friends tow their EI with the new Tundra with zero issues.

We were in the first one sold in January, at the Eggs 'n Smores rally in Florida. The layout is nice, and seems spacious. It obviously isn't Oliver quality, but the one we were in was fully loaded at $59,000 if I remember correctly. The new owner said that a twin bed version was under consideration. When we were shopping, in 2021-2022, the Oliver was beyond our financial reach, and we were looking at Casitas and Escapes. It took selling a number of vehicles and toys to finally afford the Oliver, so if this Casita 24 had been available then, it's probably the direction we would have gone instead. No regrets, and we clearly love our Oliver. It was just a stretch that we might not have made at the time.

However, the GX and the Elite I would be a fantastic combination! Luxury on either side end of the hitch.

I wouldn’t. I’m towing with a 2021 200 Land Cruiser with the 5.7 V8, and it is just adequate. Merging is sometimes scary, and Appalachian hills require my 8-speed to run in 4th often. Tongue weight can be 600 plus pounds, and I’m already at cargo capacity with two rows of seats removed. I don’t think the GX has my 1450 pound cargo capacity. Most will advise that you need a 3/4 or one ton diesel pickup, but a few of us pull with large body on frame SUVs.

I’d like to hear more about what kind (brand, model) was installed From Hank’s FB post: ”Camping Northern Florida. 31F this morning and a very comfortable 76F inside. A small space heater on the low setting only. 12VDC warming blankets on the beds. Using only 11 amps shore power. Basement temperature is holding at 66F. Two small 12VDC fans, one port and one stbd side keep a gentle air flow circulating thru the basement. With the bathroom vanity port open, cabin air is flowing into the basement and returning thru the return grill below the bed. The basement partitions have been removed and a 700W Xtreme heater is mounted inside (auto on at 43F off at 55F) for very cold conditions. Last week camping at 14F the Xtreme heater did come on to maintain a temperature well above freezing in the basement while we were gone.” If you are a member of the Oliver Owners of America facebook group, look up member Hank White, and scroll through his group posts. This one was from January 2025, with several photo. Hank has done a *lot* of cool modifications, and having seen them in person, I’ve added several to my list to things to do.

Several of us have added a simple recirculating valve to the bathroom hot water. Add a diverter in the hot water feed line under the bathroom vanity, with the return line going to a T in the tank fill line. Some of us have also added a separate shower mixer while under there. I too have a crazy amount of cold air coming in through the hot air return under the curb side bed when not using the furnace. I attribute it to having the roof vent open to keep moisture down, hot air rising, and drawing in cold air somewhere. Hank White removed most of the basement partitions, added a fixed 110V heater under the nightstand, and then a circulating fan under each bed, one facing aft and the other forward. He says an added benefit is that this also heats the floor a bit.

Three that we picked up at Oliver in February of this year were $19.04 including tax.

My 2023 has the same outlet, and I think Tom is correct in that it is for AC power to the fridge. I used that outlet with a 12 ga extension cord to supply power to my exterior AC outlet under the folding table. I tapped into the fridge's 12V DC power for the cigarette outlet.