DanielBoondock

That’s only three years old! Any idea why they got so bad, previous owner didn’t grease?

From the new weekly update Jason said it kind of oddly - they've been selling from the factory for years and that's how I got it as as West Coast dealers are sparse - but I think he means they're no longer going to sell through dealers. My guess would be the cost of the trailers and customization. One of the 'closest' dealers to me is a couple day drive over to Utah. I talked to them, but of course they didn't stock what I wanted so it was a custom order with a big downpayment. And the sales guy wasn't super helpful, I wanted the big 640 Lithionics which he pushed back on. "Those are too expensive!" 😅 Odd thing to say, my finances are my business, and I'm glad I got them even with the EV. Anyhow got tired of trying to work with them and just went straight to the factory as there was really no advantage to the dealer.

I've got a Mitsubishi I had installed in my garage/office. Looked at doing it myself, doesn't appear to be a big job, but at the time the price was good to have the experts do it. I think these come with precharged lines too so you don't have to get the vac pump and mess around with all that. I'd be cautious about having multiple registers/heads. I worked with them about putting a second in the bedroom ... I don't recall the limitations now, but I remember the upshot is that its better to not do these hydra installations.

These look pretty awesome, thanks for the tip! The '26's don't have touch lights, but plain jane bright white which cheesy little switches. Olivers have a huge amount of lighting for a small trailer but I use them all. Getting to choose your temp is amazing! How good is it, which one did you choose? Otherwise the remembering the state is a huge feature too. Choosing blue for a nightlight is absolutely brain dead though, it should have been deep dark red to preserve night vision and not wake you up. Blue is a morning light and is the clue to your brain that its time to wake up. Oh well ...

I’ll call (probably), but still won’t change the axels. I’m at 0% gain on the freeways now and only go up to an exciting 0.5% when in traffic. Don’t use the brakes much basically

OK. Yeah the Alcan guy on the phone asked if I also wanted to install new axels? “Uh, no, why?” I explained that they were D52’s with the spring derate, to which he replied that the brakes were (maybe?) different. Like I say he didn’t seem confident of that and I wasn’t really buying it, I think from our discussion we can conclude that we believe it’s just a stock D52.

Right The question is whether these have gimped 3500 brakes, maybe the conversation is getting a little mixed. Just realized I misinterpreted what scuba was saying, I thought he meant that a 12” drum means a different brake than the standard D52, but on re-reading I think he means that’s just a D52. Those drums look like they’re 12”, and from the label we know 26’s have D52’s derated to 3500. Long story short I think these are stock 52’s with the on paper derating due to the springs. Speak up if I’m missing something

Dunno, what do you think?

Agree, not sure how much I believe the hype. Shocks have a simple job, have been around forever, hard to believe it can be improved that much. Anyhow at $40 each its a cheap upgrade Good to hear. I get a little (non problematic) side waddle. It’s the porpoising thats annoying, if that goes away I’ll be happy.

4k and soon to be 6k. But why? Why not? They’re redoing the suspension so it’s certainly the right time for it. Plus those Bulldogs look so much more coooooooollllllll 🙂 The bigger thing is I largely went with Oliver because I just don’t want to deal with problems. I’m a retiring engineer dammit, I don’t need to keep fixing bad designs and issues! 😅I could get some more milage out of this suspension but if I believe that it is undersized then there’s no reason to wait … FWIW here’s what Google thinks about the two, but granted we (or at least I) don’t know what if any differences there are with Bulldogs HD and these light duty trailer shocks

On the Bulldog shocks Alcan didn’t want to order them (I got the feeling like they’re just about the leaf springs and didn’t want to be bothered), so I did so from advice on this thread from 4trucks. Note they don’t carry them in stock but have to come from a warehouse which adds delay, it was maybe a month all told to get them.

If you like that you gotta try regenerative braking at 0.5 trailer gain! I’ll pull 130 kW silently on the regen and bring you to a full stop, it’s nuts. I have to lower the regen to the moderate level as the high level is too much. Big batter == more regen capability basically. Anyhow yeah the first gen trucks like Lightning, CT and Rivian aren’t for towing, but these second gen Sierra + Silverado are pretty hard to beat as a camping companion. Power is the one thing I don’t worry about boondocking. I’ve talked about it before but I haven’t mapped a trip yet that doesn’t have charging close enough for these trucks. The only vampire I notice is the WIFI (TP-Link travel router), slowly but surely it’ll eat at the battery and heat up the attic, even on Eco. Not a problem with all these kWh really but its’ annoying, I turn it off at night. I wifi hotspot mooching and tether my unlimited plan phone for the family otherwise.

Yeah cutoff switches, the solar pokes into the cabinet but the inverter is on the main layout panel under the bed. Stuff under the beds makes sense - I was wondering with the double hull how you’d access everything but it works great, except when you need to get to them! I’m fine with the electrical, that’s a rare interaction, but the water valves are super annoying. Why didn’t they put a Nautilus panel or the like just under the curb bed? Your motorized valve solution is cool.

The inverter, the solar is up in the street side cabinet

This mod is awesome but I’d go KISS with a simple switch too. It’s very useful for troubleshooting, in fact on my maiden voyage I ran into trouble with my Xantrex and Oliver support wanted me to isolate the battery by taking the leads off. I wasn’t too happy about that - they’re torqued and I didn’t have the proper wrench with me, and maybe not the right sized sockets anyhow. Pretty crude just pulling those leads … fortunately I quickly realized that these Lithionics I got have the built in power switches. So easy, but not everybody has a built in cutoff. The ‘26’s already have two master rotary cutoffs, one for solar and the other for the inverter. Odd they didn’t do one for the battery