DanielBoondock

I mean make it a little longer. The glass body is what, only 18’ on a 24’ 6” body? I don’t understand the exceptionally long tongue except stability, but then why not move the wheels back a bit instead? I don’t know the details but would love to, but just another 6” or foot of interior length would go a long way. Weights a consideration but going to 8k isn’t that bad I think Anyhow the only history I know is they hired some guys from a nearby house boat catamaran company initially. That’s where they probably got the marine hidden gasket idea, and the fitting out with electrical and such. I wonder how the chassis was designed?

Actually these blocks are perfect, not sure about brackets but the first problem is keeping the sitting room. It’s too tight as is, either I tuck the piano away on edge between use (a bother) or extend the seat a bit. Here’s an idea (notice the aisle Hue lights) This is the twin bed extension, I could see if Oliver will sell me a pair and adapt them to likewise extend the dinette seats into the aisle. That would be perfect, except that the bulkhead seat can’t extend as that interferes with the bathroom door. WIP …

Actually the owners didn’t sell it for me, Escape and Bigfoot owners are equally passionate. In the end what did it was a tallying of positives and negatives. For me, I figured that whatever undiscovered problems the Oliver will have will be less than the known negatives of the others. I was worried about the bed length in particular. Fortunately nothing came to pass, and I found more positives IRL. Having said that, couldn’t they have made the bathroom just a little bit bigger? 🙂 Anyhow OT the greasing went just fine with a right angle fitting (not right angle zircs). Question: a couple of the outrigger ones - the ones on spring ends, would not take grease at all. Clogged? I’m going to try again after I move it, figuring that the position it’s in is preventing ingress

Been a member for four or five years 🙂 took me that long to make my choice. Oliver was the first choice but then Bigfoot seduced me with that cool BIG FOOT front storage. Got a tour, meh, and noticed the seams and conventional RV hardware everywhere, so came back into the fold. Pretty brave, or stupid too as it was sight unseen, they’re rare out on the West Coast

There are electronic drum kits as I’m sure you know, takes set up but would work, and won’t bother the wildlife My son got a Donner travel guitar for our inaugural trip which is pretty much ideal, nice and small. It’s basically electric with no spruce soundboard and uses pickups, but you can get a nylon string version and the internal DSP sounds great. He loves it and thinks the action is good Z brackets is a good idea I’ll check out, looking for easy DIY

if you’re a serious musician you’ll know my dilemma; ya can’t leave it at home. This is a Doepfer stage piano I used before I got my grand. Weighs a ton and is bulletproof with reasonably weighted keys and has a decent action. I’ve been sweating whether this could work but thankfully it will! Being able to fit a keyboard was a selection criteria. I think neither Escape nor Bigfoot would comfortably accommodate it and Oliver was a maybe or “I hope” Yes it looks silly but OH WELL, your instrument is the girlfriend you can’t ignore Those are Anderson blocks and actually work perfectly. Having it there is pretty fine, that side is awkward anyhow because of the sloping wall, this provides an arm rest so if you don’t have a big butt it works. And best of all the table fits on top so no fooling around setting up. I just need custom cushions and most importantly a good chair that stows. The seat has to be good or it’s too hard to play Anyhow interested in ideas if ya got ‘em

I’ve got a fancy German manual gun with a locking head that I like but that’s the problem, can’t get it in there. Ordered those 45s, hope that works. Also I found a local trailer suspension shop that’s been here for decades so should be good. I’ll order the Alcans before too long and do it locally. Probably going with four unless they manage to convince me otherwise 😅 Still feeling it out and need to find the time to read the other half of this thread

Fair point, retract the 1750s from what I said, except perhaps for people who lightly use their trailer It was a reasonable starting point but charging now comes with risk aversion to change probably. Maybe they’ll do it sometime as an update. 2027 looks like they’ll be adding a DC-DC converter, it’s already labeled in on the electrical panel. I don’t need it but useful for ICE TVs 3k miles and I’m hearing the suspension squeak now, doing my first grease. What a pain, getting a right angle grease gun fitting

Also OTT seems to have changed their insulation scheme. From factory walkthroughs it used to be outer bottom and inner upper. This was probably for ease of installation. My trailer is reflective outer bottom as before, but on top Nice thick outer insulation, no air gap as far as I know. So now maybe it seems to be a combo of infrared reflective and usual dead air insulation, all on the outer

The person who picked up their factory trailer after me was from Alaska, if they join the forum would be interesting to hear their experience. Regarding four season I think no TT will measure up to your home. Emperial claim almost 3” thick walls though so an inch or two of insulation maybe, it does look good. OTOH Eskimos camp in an ice igloo and nobody would tell them it’s not four season 🙂 Point being there is no definition, but I think that if you can be comfortable in your TT in year round conditions then sure, it’s year round. Some TTs might require less energy to be comfortable but otherwise it doesn’t matter, does it? I think the biggest issue is moisture management. I’ll give the prize to the 4 season prize to the one that manages condensation the best, and damn the heating bill

The battery is rated to 131 which is pretty usual for lithium so that’s ok, I just don’t like it. It was a warm March with a heat wave (another 100 year event) and the battery was getting plenty of solar charging so I think it was just conditions. Back coastal it’s normal temps again. Anyhow I’ll try the temp activated fan and do a write up

Great solution - I love the Blutech stuff. We’ve got the filter unit with UV, and the softener and iron tank. For inside the camper I’ve thought about adding that but don’t like drilling holes. But now they’ve got a new solution for hooking into your existing faucet. When the Black Friday deals come around this year I’ll probably pick this up.

Checking the BMS temps the problem with my Lithionics was more of too much heat, easily getting up to the high 90’s in early March. The batteries produce heat too from the BMS board and just from charge/discharge. The battery has a built in heater so if it gets cold no problem, that’ll take care of that. On my list is to add a automated fan to a top vent, I won’t otherwise insulate it. When we got to camp I’d open up the door to get it to cool down faster as the sun went down.

Looks to me like what you’d expect, just a temporal lag and smoothing. I think you don’t see the same minima/maxima because of the time lag - outside is already turned around before the inside reaches the min/max. fwiw tl/dr I spent a lot of stupid time (meaning I could have been doing something more useful 😅) thinking about the insulation on this thing. It’s really interesting, it’s basically all reflective/infrared. But for the most part air gapped everywhere except the belly band, which is what you need for that to be effective. Fiberglass bat This primarily slows down the rate of heat transfer. If the trailer had that we’d see a larger delta in the charts above. So it doesn’t stop the heat transfer, just slows it Reflective with air gap (Protex) This primarily works by actually reflecting the infrared heat, not the thermal brownian heat in the air its in contact with. So it does stop heat transfer - look at the moon landers with gold foil, or the James Web infrared telescope with its many laters of foil. Both effectively eliminate heat transfer from the sun Bits and pieces Rule of thumb I heard from an engineer in this field; reflective works better the greater the differential (outside to inside). Fiberglass shells are horrible insulators However, we have a double hull. Air gaps of 1/2” or under is as good as insulation bats (not a big enough space for convection currents. Note that seems to be about as much of the gap as we have. So the double hulls act as a buffering system, both giving the Protex the air gap it needs to work, and that enclosed air gap acting generally as dead air space. Putting it all together, in extreme conditions (hot or cold) the trailer should perform great due to the large delta between outside and in and the dual insulation, which is what I hear from owners. But due to the .5-1” air gaps you won’t see a large time lag in an idle trailer.

Intuitively that feels like a good solution. With your years you’ll know there’s few or no hard rules here. Every design outside of Aerospace comes with a lot of windage - ‘yes but …’ Anyhow I think all of these - 1750, 2400 and Alcan are likely just fine and there’s little to fear with any. But I do want to see power spectral density charts with each of them, easy to get with our phones.