ChristianD

I towed with a Yukon and it pulled great. No issues. Ours was newer but we never had any issues with it. When I bought the trailer, I picked it up a few hours away from home and didn't tow it back with the weight distribution connected. Towed fine. On longer trips, I did pull it with the wdh and never had any issues either way.

Over Thanksgiving week, my wife, daughter, dog and I drove out to Yosemite and Sequoia National parks. I let the dog do most of the driving 🙂 Camped at Yosemite Pines RV park, which was very nice, but a bit far from Yosemite. Made for some long morning and evening drives. Spend about 4 days there. My daughter worked from the RV one day via Starlink. That was our first experience with it and it went really good. Sequoia we stayed at Lemon Cove RV park. Decent place and much closer to the NP gates. Saw a bear on Bear Hill one morning, so we decided not to hike that area that morning. Had lunch with some deer then drove up to Kings Canyon, which was better, in our opinion, than Sequoia. All beautiful places though. The Oli towed great the entire trip and was nice to have some of the updates I had done previous to this trip. The new axels and Alcan springs felt great. The new Tosot AC/heater worked well for night time when I ran it for heat since I was plugged in to campsite power. No reason to burn through the propane while hooked to electrical. New Truma water heater worked perfect too. Overall, a great trip and no issues with the Oliver. It was also nice to have our daughter fly in from Denver and spend the week with us.

We're planning a trip to Yosemite soon and I picked up a heated water hose. The forecast is calling for lows just below freezing and it will be a just in case we need to fill our tank. I don't think I'm going to leave it attached, at night, but from what I've read, the heated portion is for that scenario. We'll keep our furnace on at night since it runs quiet, and run our rooftop AC unit heat during the day, so I don't use up all the propane and can save that just for sleeping hours. I also bought a dual voltage plug in Vornado heater, which has a low setting that I plan to run at night since we'll be hooked up to shore power most of our trip. This will be our first trip during colder weather, so I may be over doing it, but wanted to be prepared, just in case it's needed.

Probably not. I'm not seeing that control board easily available for less than $150. If I happen to come across one for cheap I may pick it up though. My research shows it's Dometic part number 3312022.000 If I can't find it cheap, then I may pull the Micro Air out of it and motor and shelf them or sell them off separately.

The $345 quote was for the 2 rear decals that has the Oliver name and the front decal on the nose. Just the 3 decals. They didn't quote for the big swish on the sides that you see on some trailers.

✅ Successful Furnace + CT Thermostat Integration After A/C Swap (Tosot Unit) Hi all — following up on my earlier post where I mentioned trying the Dometic controller from RV Surplus. Turns out that board was not the correct one for our Oliver furnace setup, and it would not communicate with the Dometic CT thermostat (kept throwing E1 code (no communications with the board). TL;DR: If you replace the factory Dometic A/C (mine is now a Tosot), the only way I found to keep using the Dometic CT thermostat to control the Suburban furnace is to reuse the original Dometic control board from the roof A/C. The CT thermostat did not run the furnace without that board in the circuit. 🚫 The Wrong Part I Initially Ordered I'd edit my previous post about this part, but I don't appear to have edit access to my older post. For clarity, the controller I first tried — which did not work — was: Dometic™ OEM 3316230.700 (9600024570) / 3313199.000 Single Zone CT Thermostat w/ Control Board (Cool/Furnace) – White Even though it says Cool/Furnace, this is a Single-Zone CT control board, not the CCC2-style logic board used in the Oliver. It will not communicate with the Oliver’s Dometic CT thermostat → results in E1 error. This board also lacks the correct communication architecture that the Oliver’s factory wiring uses. So if you're replacing your original Dometic roof A/C with a Tosot and want to keep your CT thermostat to run the Suburban furnace, this part will not solve it. I only had success after re-using the real factory control board pulled from the original rooftop A/C. ❌ What did not work Purchased a Dometic “furnace controller” from RV Surplus Installed and wired it per previous guidance CT thermostat would not see it → E1 comm fault That part was a standalone freeze/temp sensor board and not the actual Dometic furnace logic board the CT needs to handshake with. At least that's my understanding of why it wasn't communicating and turning on the furnace. ✅ What did work Removed the original Dometic control board from the old rooftop A/C unit Installed it in the ceiling cavity where the wiring drops down Connected the original Oliver comm wires (blue/white) and 12V power leads; basically connected all the wires I cut back to the wires on the original control board. Connected the furnace R/W from the Dometic board to the Suburban furnace leads Plugged in the original Dometic freeze sensor (or you can use a 10k resistor) to avoid E5 Thermostat rebooted, initialized properly, and now Heat mode functions just like factory. The Tosot A/C runs stand-alone on its own remote — the CT thermostat now just handles the furnace. 🔧 Mounting Notes There was no enclosure around the board in the original AC, so I repurposed the housing from the incorrect RV Surplus controller. Trimmed two corners of the board to fit and secured all wiring. Everything is clean and protected behind the interior ceiling shroud. 🎉 Result CT thermostat works in Furnace mode No more E1 or E5 errors Oliver interior remains OEM-clean — no separate thermostat needed Tosot A/C runs independently on its own control system 💡 For others doing a swap: If you want to retain your CT thermostat for furnace control: Do not discard the original Dometic A/C control board. It must be reinstalled to act as the furnace interface. The Oliver wiring uses the Dometic bus — not simple furnace contacts — so the board is required for the CT to communicate. Thanks to @RonBrink and others who paved the way on this mod — his wiring was slightly different, so I'm sharing this as a variation in case it helps the next person who uses a Tosot (or any non-Dometic) replacement A/C. Pics attached below. Let me know if anyone wants a wiring diagram or parts notes.

Yes the $73 was for the two side decals that say Oliver Legacy Elite II. Just those two decals.

Put the new side decals on. Looks like nice quality decals and went on easily. I clay bared the sides first, then hit them with a 3M 1 stage buffing compound, then wiped and cleaned it before measuring it out. Drew vertical lines about where the doors are below where it goes, then measured to the middle of the bond line and door. I came up with 8.5" down from the bond line and that was the center of my decal placement. $73.71

I found the issue with the generators now working. My Honda generators have a "floating neutral" and the Tosot won't power on without the neutral grounded. I made a plug that jumps the neutral (silver side) to ground and plugged in the regular plug, plugged into the rv, fired up the generator and the AC powered on! Both my Honda EU2000 and 3000 work with it like that. Solution: Ground / Bonding Plug Some RV A/C units + soft starts will NOT start from an unbonded generator (floating neutral). They see it as a fault and won't engage the compressor. Honda portables = floating neutral Fix: Use a neutral-ground bonding plug in a spare outlet on the generator. Example DIY bond plug: Standard 3-prong plug Jumper neutral to ground inside

I put in an order to a decal shop to get the side rear text decals. We'll see how they turn out.

We're on about 1.25 acres. When we moved to AZ, about 5 years ago, my wife wanted a house that was move in ready, had a pool and I wanted a large garage. We bought a house that was move in ready and that was it. No pool and a 2 car garage with very little extra room for "stuff". We had a pool built about 2 summers ago as our first major project. Took over 2 years to get it done with permitting and contractor issues. 😞 I steadily cleared the back of the lot and a pathway to the back. Before I started doing that, you could barely walk to the backyard, it was so overgrown and unkept. Next project is/was the garage. Just got the garage barn up a few weeks ago. I grew up with uncles that had barns, so it's been a dream most of my life to have one. I'll enjoy the build out, since I like doing those kind of projects. I have a few generators for now to power the building and plan to add solar. I may trench a line for power and water, but want to get some other stuff done first. I've remodeled a few houses and can do basic electrical but haven't done anything like a subpanel or full electrical wiring yet. I don't think it's beyond me, but I'll have to go to Youtube and ChatGPT school for a lot of it. Like you said, everything cost $$$, time is limited too and I'm not as young as I used to be.

Congrats CRM on the install. Looks like a nice unit. My Tosot install was very similar with just the power wires, but with mine the gasket removal was much cleaner. I think whomever put that old Coleman on accidently flipped that seal on install. The sticky side is supposed to be on the AC unit. Makes a mess for you when swapping out the way they did it. This was mine right after I removed the Dometic. Hopefully, John's is like this. I just sprayed it off, then gave it a quick buff to clean it.

I started looking into the Victron stuff, but that's on the back burner for now. If you saw a picture of my garage, you'll notice I don't have garage doors, electrical, or the built out workout area that I told my wife about 🙂 Yesterday, we had a crew out here working on the outdoor cement aprons. Got the dug out and framed. Next is the concrete pour. Garage doors are getting installed in a few weeks and I'll probably put a EG4 inverter and a 48v battery in with a few solar panels for now.

Most likely, they may not have the big swoosh graphic files if they shopped those out to a specialist. If they did their graphics and decals in-house, then the person who used to do them must have left without any knowledge sharing. My assumption is that the folks at their headquarters don't have the graphics or computer skills to reproduce them... it's not hard, if you know how to recreate them 🙂 Maybe I should sell them the files they need to recreate them, but after seeing what they wanted to charge me, I'd be less inclined to do that.

Slight update. I'm waiting for a thermostat, but I also found the Dometic control box that Ron posted a bit cheaper on https://thervsurplus.com/search?q=Dometic™+OEM+3316230.700+(9600024570)&options[prefix]=last so I ordered one. We're going on a weekend trip and I don't think I'll have either of them hooked up, so maybe next week. Buttoned up the AC unit for now. Works great and it's quiet. I tried to power it with my Honda EU2000 generator, but it didn't turn on. Thought it might, but no bueno. PXL_20251028_001654190.mp4

Thanks CRM for the measurement. I made a graphics file for the front and side decals. Now I just need to find a print shop to print them 🙂

I called Oliver last week wanting to get a set of the newer side text graphics, but they quoted $345.13 for just the two Oliver Legacy Elite II graphics, so I declined. My current trailer only has the front graphic, which measures 27" wide. I'd like to put the side Oliver text graphic on. Can someone measure the width of that text decal and let me know how wide that is? From what I can guess, that text is the size of the storage door, which is about 29". I may just create the graphics file and have a local shop print them.

Ron, you're using the Dometic thermostat controls only for your furnace? I may wire up the furnace to a separate thermostat. That seems like the easier route and cheaper too. I ended up getting the old Dometic down and the new Tosot mounted. It took some finagling and a trip to Harbor Freight for a snatch block. The pictures show the old coming off and the new going up. I pulled the Oliver up once I got the old unit up and then lowered down the AC. Then I pulled the new unit up and backed the trailer under it before lowering it back down. Glad that's over. I hooked the power up, but need to get my generator out in order to test it. I don't have electrical / power yet in the garage.

Thanks. From your write up, and for my to-do list, I need to: Step 9 set the roof top unit in place. All the foam seal and leveling is attached don't overthink it just mount it. Hole is perfect size already. Step 10 Open Dometic Furnace and use a continuity tester to ID the 2 wire from the Furnace. They were blue on the Furnace but changed to blue and green somewhere before arriving up at the interior hole on my Ollie Step 11 Remove Dometic Thermostat and ID the wires to the Interior hole. I had a 3 wire Green, Red, White. Step 12 wire 2 wires from Furnace to Red and white going to ThermoStat. Push the wires into the channel the wires are in up top to get them out of the way Step... get heat only thermostat and place it somewhere. I saw ronbrink's post and write up and it looks like he grabbed the control box from the Dometic and was able to wire it that way. At least that's what it looks like to me. I removed the Dometic cover last night, but then my wife came out to the garage and wanted dinner, so I didn't get a chance to look at anything yet. I'll get back up there later today and look for the control box. My thought was that I'd sell the Dometic, so i'm not sure if I should remove that box. I'll report back after I figure this out. Thanks all for your help.

I asked ChatGPT. Seems I will need a separate thermostat for the furnace now since I'm removing the Dometic control board. ------------------------------------ 🧩 What You Have Now That wiring harness under your Dometic Penguin II is the thermostat communication/control loom for your Dometic wall thermostat. It’s a 12 V DC control system (not 120 V). The loom carries low-voltage signals for both the A/C and the Suburban furnace (via the Dometic control board). The Dometic system acted as a “hub” — your thermostat told the A/C control box what to do, and that box sent the furnace signal out on the blue wire when “heat” was called for. When you remove the Penguin II and its control box, you break that communication path. The Suburban furnace won’t get its 12 V heat-call signal anymore unless you rewire it to a simple independent thermostat. 🧰 What You Need To Do So the Furnace Still Works Since your new Tosot A/C runs entirely off its own remote, you can leave those Dometic control wires disconnected and instead wire the furnace directly to a standard 12 V RV thermostat (or reuse your existing wall thermostat if it supports direct furnace control). Option 1 – Add a small 12 V mechanical/electronic thermostat just for the furnace Find the two furnace control wires coming from the Suburban unit (typically blue and white, sometimes blue/white stripe). Those are the “thermostat loop.” When connected together, the furnace runs. Route those two wires to a simple RV thermostat (like the Honeywell TH1100DV or Dometic single-stage heat only). Connect them to the “R” and “W” (or “+” and “–”) terminals — polarity doesn’t matter on a basic furnace circuit. Cap or tape off all the old Dometic A/C control wires safely; they’ll be unused. Option 2 – Reuse the existing Dometic wall thermostat (only if it has a furnace setting and can directly switch 12 V) If your Dometic wall stat is one of the basic analog models with a heat switch, you can bypass the old A/C control box: Connect the furnace’s two thermostat wires directly to the furnace terminals on that thermostat. Ignore all the data-bus or multi-wire cable that went to the A/C. If your wall thermostat is digital and used an RJ-11 phone-type cable, it won’t work standalone — you’ll need a new simple furnace thermostat.

I started the install, but have a question about the DC thermostat wire bundle loom, if anyone knows or has done this? I'm assuming I cut these wires and wrap them since they won't be used for the new AC unit, but I wasn't sure if that would affect the Suburban furnace control from the thermostat? From reading the Atmos install from @Ronbrink, it looks like he had a Dometic furnace and a control box. I ordered the Tosot with the Turbro soft start and got that installed. I followed this install video Here's the pictures from my wiring of the soft start: After I figure out these thermostat wires, then I'll attempt to get the Dometic down and the Tosot up onto the RV. I'm doing this solo, but think I have a method with a winch, some straps and using a beam from my garage barn to hoist them up and down. Should be good, but will take some maneuvering. Planning a trip to Death Valley and Yosemite soon. Last weekend, we went up to Prescott, AZ for my our first trip together. It was great!

Tosot is having a sale, so I thought I'd pick one up and do the swap. Just ordered it last night from tosotdirect.com, so it should get to me in about a week. It's even cheaper on Amazon right now, but the seller doesn't have the best reviews so I went to the source instead. Sale price is $1,059.99 with the soft start and around $960 without. I went with the soft start option. When I get it and do the install, I'll update this post. Looking forward to this next upgrade! Looking forward to the quieter than Dometic ac unit, and I think it will be nice to have the heater too. Ronbrink did a great write up on his install, so I'm going to comb over his post since I thought his install looked so clean.

I probably didn't need to replace those, but I wanted everything to be new and not have any wear and tear on them. My trailer is a 2019 and I don't know how it was treated before I bought it. I'm sure it's a me thing, but I like replacing everything when I'm going this far with replacement parts, so it would not have sat well in my mind if I didn't. Another reason, I brought the old axels, springs and E-Z flex suspension home to later use on a future trailer build so I would have needed to buy another set of E-Z flex suspension if I build the trailer. Better to have the new stuff on the Oliver.

Got back from Grand Junction, Co last night. Took the Oli up to Alcan to have new Dexter 5200lb D52 axels, new Alcan springs, Bulldog HD shocks, and new Dexter E-Z Flex Suspension Kit (K71-653-00) installed. Took my little buddy Benny with for the day there, day back trip. The guys at Alcan met me out front at 7:30am. I dropped the trailer in the parking lot and they took care of everything. During the wait I drove the Rim Rock Drive in Colorado National Monument. After that, I went for a coffee, spent about half hour there and drove back to Alcan. The trailers was finished already! Then loaded up the old axels and springs into my t.v. and drove to Home Depot to get a torque wrench and sockets. Long drive home, but now the Ollie has all new axels and suspension. First time staying in the trailer. Bed is small for me, so I need to figure out a center connector piece and fill it with cushions to increase the leg area. I know about the Foy product, but may come up with something on my own.

Thanks Ron. I thought I read through the manual, but obviously it didn't sink in, or I completely missed it. 🙂