Rolind

Thanks @Galway Girl I am assembling the materials for a fix next week!

Thanks @Galway Girl I am assembling the materials for a fix next week!

Awesome and thanks. I’ll get busy?

Sorry to reanimate an old thread, but my large support block fell off the propane cover on our last trip and by some miracle was balanced on one of the cross members on the bottom of the propane enclosure. I’m planning steps to reattach it and had some questions for those who have done this before. It seems that everyone has used epoxy but has anyone used a methyl methacrylate adhesive instead? It seems as if surface prep doesn’t need to be as meticulous if MMA is used instead of epoxy. For those that used epoxy, how rigorous does the surface prep need to be? I plan on removing all the old adhesive, lightly sanding both surfaces and then washing with water and the isopropyl alcohol. Would this surface prep suffice for epoxy use? Thanks in advance for the help and safe travels.

I had the same issue occur but was luckily able to wiggle the switch out wo removing the panel. I also happened to the bathroom light switch. I was initially confused because the pump would only turn on with the switch outside the bathroom near the thermostat.

So I think the Aventa is designed to drain condensate onto the roof unless the option condensate drain kit is installed, which is on my trailer. I regret I didn’t take any pics when I had my cover off but the picture from the manual may help. You have been in your unit so hopefully you can decipher the image. The upper image is looking down on the unit and there are two small holes marked 1 and 2. The oval hole (1)is the overflow and the round hole (2) is the opening to the condensate drain tube if installed. The lower image is looking at the unit from below and cannot be seen with the Aventa installed as the lower surface is only an inch or so above trailer shell. The short quarter circle track leading from (1) on the lower image, is the track of the optional drain tubing. I agree that the condensate pan is very shallow and it is not how I would have designed the system. Because the pan is shallow and the ridge between the round condensate drain hole and the oblong overflow is only a few millimeters, the drainage is very sensitive to leveling of the trailer. I also think that level for my Aventa and level for my trailer are slightly different, just for added complexity. Despite my pledge not to, I suspect I will probably take another run at getting my port side drain unobstructed. On the other hand, I am delighted that this is my only complaint regarding my Oliver. What a fantastic trailer.

Thanks so much for the write up. It taught me a lot. I also learned I need to upgrade my annual inspection process.

Unfortunately not. They were parked at the beach campground and I was hoping they were going to stay at the campground, but they never pulled in.

I think that @Patriot comments in the above mentioned link are most appropriate. The condensate lines cannot be kinked. It is pretty amazing that the lip in the condensate tray between the drain proper and the overflow is only a few millimeters at best. But having said this, if both condensate lines are draining well no water should drain down the side of the trailer or into the trailer regardless of the leveling of the trailer. I will say that I was afraid to really blast the condensate lines with high pressure from below, to prevent separating the connection in the lines I mentioned previously. I had already sealed up the unit before I applied the compressor to the drains under the trailer.

Based on my recent Truma dissection and research, I am suspicious that your condensate lines are at fault. The Truma has a pan under the evaporator to collect condensate. The pan has a drain and overflow on street and curbside. It is designed so that if the condensate lines become occluded, the condensate will pass through the overflow and onto the outside of the trailer. If both the condensate drain lines and the overflow are occluded, I understand that the condensate can drain into the trailer. Furthermore about a foot from the evaporator pan, there is a connection where the condensate line from the pan connects to the condensate line in the trailer. Again, based on my understanding, if this connection fails, water can then drain from the unit into the trailer. I hope this is clear and helps. it isn’t too difficult to investigate these issues further but it does involve an hour on the roof of the trailer, a T25 and T30 driver and some sealant to reseal the shroud cover screws after reinstallation.

Well it finally happened. After a year of cross crossing the country, my wife pointed out this Oliver from Pennsylvania today at Tawas Point State Park. Haven’t met the owners yet.

@Ronbrink is spot on. Here a pic of my outlet.

The closest we have have come to an Oliver in the last year is meeting a couple last week in Holland, Michigan several days ago who are from Kansas and own an Oliver but flew to Holland and left their Ollie behind. Now in central Michigan and not an Oliver to be seen. Heading to Lake Huron side in a day. Maybe we will get lucky there!

So despite my pledge to suppress my OCD tendencies, I spent some more time with my condensate hoses today. The hose is not kinked behind the basement wall and I cannot see an obvious kink when I examine the hose under the evaporator. There is very limited access to the condensate hoses from the roof. At this point, I’m going to really quit and live with condensate on the side of the trailer. If I were to pursue things further, I think the next step would be to lift the ac unit off the roof and gain better access to the drain tubes. This is more than I am willing to do.

Thanks for the input. Your post got me thinking and today I’m going to check behind the wall in the basement and see if I can see any kinks. Btw are you going on the Tremor forum truck plant tour in August? It would be great to meet you.