Rolind

Some heaters, maybe all have a feature that will stop further attempts to ignite after a certain number of failed attempts. Our is three. If this happens it can often be reset by turning the heat off and then back on.

I don’t have a great one stop source for all things solar, there are numerous online sources. I would start with the websites of solar equipment manufacturers such as Victron, Battleborn, Renogy etc. Exporist.life, and any of the solar forums are helpful as are this forum and even airforums and the other brand dedicated rv forums. As far as storage is concerned, we too have covered storage but are able to connect a 100w solar panel to a very inexpensive solar charge controller from Renogy using a solar panel extension cord. The panel is outside of the covered area and only gets a half day of sun, but is able to keep up with the parasitic load of the trailer and slowly charge up the batteries unless the battery heaters are running for a long period of time wo any sun. We have a zamp solar port on the outside of the trailer, but they are very easy to install if you don’t. Hope this helps point you in the right direction.

Will the range light? After changing out tanks or after prolonged storage, we sometimes have enough air in the lines that the furnace has a difficult time lighting or won’t light at all. I will usually then light the range briefly to at least purge the air from the lines to the range top. Usually the furnace will then light.

I’m not sure our situations are similar but offer the following. I believe an error code 20 indicates loss of communication between the converter/inverter and the remote display. We were getting an error 20 code whenever our batteries were significantly discharged and we then plugged into shore power. We concurrently experienced a cyclical shutdown of the xantrex cooling fan, and when the cooling fan was shutdown, usually for only 10 seconds or so, the charging current to the batteries would decrease dramatically . I was unable to link my phone to the remote when it indicated an error 20. Once the batteries were fully charged, I could clear the error 20 code but restarting the inverter and the remote and I think I also restarted the batteries as Rivernerd suggested above. Unfortunately the code would occur the next time the batteries were charging on shore power after being discharged. After multiple calls to xantrex support which was not very helpful, I finally updated firmware to the converter/inverter, the remote and also the communication firmware and have never had another issue. There are detailed firmware update instructions on the xantrex support page and also some less detailed instructions on an Oliver support page. There is at least one other thread on Oliver Owners Forum re error 20. The firmware updates are easy but have very specific steps and file names. I hope this helps and good luck with your problem.

We are sold on picaridin containing bug spray, preferably in a pump sprayer, the aerosol version sprays too much too fast and permethrin spray for clothing when traveling in high bug areas. We also have a bug zapper and a clam quick set screen house.

I would highly recommend the detail and ceramic coat from CGI in Murfreesboro. Our trailer was ceramic coated several months ago and looks amazing. All swirl marks and holograms were removed. The CGI guys did mention that they typically are at the Oliver yearly rally and will inspect and reapply the ceramic coat as necessary for an additional fee.

We have Oliver factory installed Truma and it does have a street side and curbside condensate drain. I think I remember that if the Truma is a retrofit install, the Truma doesn’t use the existing condensate drains.

Something that I have found helpful, is to clean out the accumulated debris under each bracket that acts as a damn holding the water between brackets. Once water is free to flow under the brackets, the ponding, stagnating and browning of the water with tannins is less of a problem. Also, we have the Truma air conditioner, and have found that unless the trailer is leveled just right, the condensate from the AC drains onto the roof instead of through the condensate drain and adds to the ponding of water.

We use KY ez pass and found it works well and was valid for most Florida toll roads. Haven’t been out East, north of SC. We originally didn’t have the trailer plate registered, but eventually got a notice in the mail that I was six months late in paying a toll. Apparently, a Florida toll road didn’t pick up the transponder but did read the trailer plate. I called and they were kind enough to waive fees, penalties etc, but I now have my trailer plate registered with ez pass.

The battery heaters would absolutely drain the batteries especially if the solar switch was turned off, or if there was a prolonged cold spell of cloudy weather. if you should take my advice on how to restart the batteries and charging, I would recommend turning the batteries on before the solar panel switch. I seem to remember that having solar on wo a connection to functioning batteries may damage the solar charge controller. i alway turn my solar switch to off when I turn off the batteries for long term storage to prevent this from happening.

I’m pretty sure the round Victron display is connected to a shunt. I don’t think it can function wo a shunt. I included a pic of mine with the SOC displayed. I almost never use the display and use the Victron connect app instead. I will say that I have never searched and actually laid eyes on the shunt but the compiled manufacturers owners manual for my trailer indicated a Victron BMV 712 shunt and display are on board.

I agree that I think your batteries have shut off due to being discharged to 10%. This is not a problem and the batteries have not been damaged. The shutoff feature is designed to protect the batteries in the event they are discharged to a low level. If you turn the batteries and discharge them completely they could be damaged, so first job is to get at least some charge in them I think a good place to start would be to install the Victron Connect app, the lithionics app, and the xantrex app on your phone. I would then pull your trailer into a sunny location on a sunny day and turn on both batteries by pressing the the power button on both batteries until it turns blue. Then make sure your xantrex inverter is not turned on at the wall panel, ie the button should not be depressed. Now, using the Victron app or the wall mounted indicator, make sure there is current flowing into the batteries. If the answer is no, check the large red and white switch in the overhead cabinet above the street side bed and make sure it is on. Under good sunny conditions I would expect between 5-20 amps to be flowing into the batteries, depending on the angle of the sun. Now that you have some solar charging occurring, I would make sure that all the apps you installed above are communicating with your batteries, xantrex inverter and the Victron shunt. Make sure you understand what they are telling you. Now would be a good time to try the generator. You can use one or two generators. For use of two, you will need to connect the generators together using the parallel cord from Honda. If you use only one generator you will need to decrease the breaker rating in the xantrex to 15-20 amps as I mentioned above. The batteries will charge faster using two generators and a higher breaker rating. The overload light I mentioned is on the front of the generator and is red on my eu2200. You should now be able to monitor charging by watching how many amps are flowing into the batteries using either the lithionics app or the Victron app and the battery state of charge using the lithionics app. The Victron state of charge percent may be incorrect until the batteries reach 100% State Of Charge, SOC. I know this seems like a lot, but once you are familiar with how things work, it is really pretty simple. i would make an afternoon of this project with a beer some music and enjoying your awesome new trailer. Last, there are a look of great video online explaining how trailer electrical systems work. good luck and I hope this helps.

Below is a screen shot from my xantrex app with the breaker rating circled in red.

I’m headed in a different direction and wonder if the breaker setting on I assume your xantrex converter/inverter may be set too high for your generator. The factory setting for breaker rating on our xantrex is 25A, but this is too high for our Honda eu2200 generator. I usually set my breaker rating to 20A or less if charging from the generator. If I try to run the generator with the breaker rating at 25 A, you can hear a change in the sound of the generator as it overloads and stops charging and the overload red light on the generator will light up.

We use about 50Ah in 24 hrs with the fridge alone. I’m not sure of the tv draw, but our inverter consumes about 3Ah just by being on with no ac load. As you consider batteries for replacement, take a look at the Epoch 460Ah lithium batteries. They are relatively inexpensive for their size and are getting great reviews.