Rolind

We use this adapter and an hdmi cable. We plug into the furrion head unit. I usually have to play around with the settings on the head unit and the tv to make it work. Apple TV streaming service never works this way. The process is cumbersome, but we rarely watch tv in our trailer. I thought about using an Apple TV device to airplay to the tv, but I think both the phone and the Apple TV would need to be on the same WiFi to work and we often don’t have WiFi when camping. https://a.co/d/4M4fmmB

I can’t speak to the breaker tripping, but we had a repeated issue with error 20 that was resolved with firmware updates for the xantrex. I seem to remember there were three updates, one for the inverter, one for the remote and one for communications. There are kind of a pain with multiple steps and very specific folder names but otherwise easy. Good luck. We have no had any breaker tripping issues.

I would talk to the office at the KOA in the morning. I know at the Charleston KOA has a number to call if you are streaming on their WiFi. No extra charge involved, just a few extra steps.

Have you tried this version out. I think previous models had mixed reviews.

Unfortunately, this is normal for the Truma units and any other rv ac unit where the blower runs continuously as the compressor cycles on and off. This is particularly a problem when the ambient humidity is high and the outside temp is close to the temp the ac is set to. These conditions result in short compressor run times with long blower run times wo the compressor running. You can use the dehumidify setting on the Truma, accessed only with the remove control. This setting runs the compressor continuously and does a great job decreasing humidity at the cost of making the trailer very cold. We usually just set the temp to much lower than we normally would to compensate for the increase humidity in the trailer, ie 65º at night. You can also purchase a small counter top dehumidifier as recently suggested in this great thread.

I think your process is great. I usually don’t turn off the main ac breaker prior to starting the generator, but maybe it is best to do so. Eco mode is also fine if you are not running the air conditioning. Lastly, if you should lose or misplace your neutral grounding plug, you can still use the generator to power the trailer if you switch the ems to bypass mode. I usually use the grounding plug but have misplaced mine on occasion. I also change the xantrex breaker rating to 15 amps. I remember that the xantrex will trip the overload on the generator if the batteries are significantly discharged and the breaker rating is set higher. We have the larger lithium bank, not sure if the smaller bank would also trip the overload.

This is a great hose. I roll up ours into a milk crate and still plenty of room for the 30 amp power cord and a ridgid charger and drill. Recommend it with no reservations. I got mine at Home Depot or maybe Lowe’s.

I’m not sure I understand your current status correctly, but if you have a 300Ah battery with 46% charge, you needed 162 Ah till full charge. Depending on weather and sun angle, and assuming you have a PWM charge controller, you probably on got 15Ah of charge for 5 hrs, and significantly less for the rest of the day. Maybe 7Ah for 7 hrs. So yield for today would be 124 Ah for a current battery deficit of 38Ah and SOC of 88%. This is not too far from your reading of 70% SOC . I would give the system another sunny day or two to catch up and see where things settle. I think you are in great shape overall. I am assuming you have the 300 Ah epoch battery, if you have the 460 Ah battery you are probably even closer to 70% SOC. Lastly, I am not familiar with epochs BMS, but on our lithionics, sometimes the SOC reading has drifted and is not correct and doesn’t reset until voltage reaches full charge. Hope this helps.

I have used the dehumidify function on our Truma. I believe it works by simply running the compressor constantly until you turn off the dehumidify setting. It does a great job lowering the humidity, but also makes the Oliver frosty cold pretty quickly. It would not be a good option when not running on shore power and I rarely use this function since it makes the Oliver so cold and only lowers the humidity while the dehumidify function is running.

This is what I use. I think I bought them at Home Depot or Lowe’s.

Welcome from a nearby neighbor, (Louisville). I’m sure you will love your Oliver! We sure do.

I have been very happy with my garmin mini 3. It is very basic and very small but does what I need. I also use the Dongar power adapter to connect it to the rear view mirrors power source.

Airstream makes a great trailer that is visually stunning and iconic. We loved our Basecamp; our trailer before our Oliver. I would recommend however doing a deep dive in Airforums before purchasing one. Things that immediately come to mind are a long history of poorly addressed front end separation by the factory, a devastating hailstorm at the Jackson Center production facility, and exterior skin failure at the mounts of the segment protectors. You may already be aware of these issues, and they often are not a deal breaker.

So I have a related question. I’m sorry about your difficulties with the touch lights. I am having a very annoying flickering of some of the gooseneck reading lights in our Oliver. Any suggestions on solutions or replacement? I searched the forum to no avail.

I am not familiar with your specific setup, but in general there would be no limit on the size of the battery bank that your charger would be able to charge. We usually get about 130-150 Amps of charge from our Xantrex inverter/charger depending on the settings of the Xantrex. As you mentioned, a larger battery bank will take longer to reach full charge. Generally Zamp external solar charge ports connect directly to the positive and ground bus bars, assuming the wiring has not been modified to connect to an internal mounted solar charge controller. I think most if not all zamp freestanding solar panels have a built in charge controller. If so, no other charge controller is needed. If your trailer doesn’t have rooftop solar, it likely doesn’t have a solar charge controller.