aaronorange

When I first starded to look for the missing knockout the first thing my wife said was I need a borescope camera. So in my thinking thats a green light to make the purchase. I'm sure they make one with a magnet tip just incase I do find it, LOL

Thanks to all that read and replied! Never found the missing knockout. Searched under the floor with my phone camera and inside the heat chamber. I went ahead and covered it with sheet metal and furnace metal tape, and all is back to normal. As stated earlier, all other ductwork is attached. To answer SNY SD UP, yes, I did modify the ducting to get better flow into the bathroom back a couple of years ago. Our ductwork is similar to yours, featuring one rear flex duct that turns 180° to head towards the front of the trailer, and another facing the front of the trailer. When you say galley side knockout, are you referring to the side facing forward to the galley/kitchen or to the center aisle, as in our case, having twin beds? Our missing knockout faces the center aisel. The photo was taken through the removable acsess port under curbside bed, Thanks again!

routlaw, thanks for checking with us 😀We did look under the bed that’s how we found the opening and the rest of the duct looks secure. I’ll let everyone know what I find once we get parked for the night.

Thanks, that’s what I was thinking but didn’t see the knockout in plane site. I’m going to take a mirror to see if it slid under the floor. 😀 We are slowly making our way to Alaska from Arizona. Currently in Idaho and we are definitely using the heater. 🥶⛄️.

Thanks, that’s what I was thinking but didn’t see the knockout in plane site. I’m going to take a mirror to see if it slid under the floor. 😀 We are slowly making our way to Alaska from Arizona. Currently in Idaho and we are definitely using the heater. 🥶⛄️.

Is it normal to have this large furnace opening blowing under the curbside bed? We seem to be getting excessive hot air blowing out our kitchen drawers and under the bed. The rest of the flex duct looks fine. (The photo shows the large furnace opening directly behind the under bed access port.) Thanks!

Thanks for the great instructions. Hope to see everyone then.

#1238 would love to camp near other Oliver’s and fiberglass RVs. Where is the location for the fiberglass RV gathering? (February 6-9th) - Also any gatherings for the Big Tent time frame. This will be our first year going to Quartzite. Any planned meet-ups around the big tent time period?

We did replace the 400 amp anl fuse with a 350 amp. Also installed a Blue Sea disconnect. I’m using a 350 MRBF terminal fuse block at the battery (it’s on the back terminal in the photo). Some day I may add them to each battery. For those who have been tracking my initial issue with the 300 amp Optifuse that kept tripping. It turned out I had a bad crimp on that cable connection. But I prefer the upgraded protection. 🙂

JD1923, I got ahold of Lithionics and they say MRBF Fuses are ok. They say I can do a single 300a fuse. This fuse attaches to the battery terminal. So protects right from the source. I also found out Xantrex recommends a 350a fuse max. So the inline 400a I put in for testing will be down graded to 350a if not removed. Thanks everyone for the help as I researched this issue.

Mossemi- Sorry let me try to clarify, The Optofuse was between the 3 lithionics 130ah batteries and the 3000W Xantrex inverter/charger. (OEM from Oliver) My real question is does anyone use MRBF fuses, if yes what amp fuse are they using? Are they using one fuse or one on each positive terminal? Just wanted to see how others are handling the issue with the Optifuse breaker. I understand others are also having problems.

How should I fuse 3 lithionics 130ah batteries wired in parallel when connected to a 3000W Xantrex inverter? I was having issues with the 300a Optifuse. I was told to replace the Optifuse breaker with a Blue Seas disconnect switch. I’m apprehensive not having a fuse inline. Would a 300amp Blue Seas MRBF terminal fuse be sufficient? I currently use a 400amp under the street side bed. I also plan to add the Blue Seas disconnect ether under the SS bed or in the battery compartment. Thanks!

Do you live in a freezing climate? Will you keep you batteries heated? Will you keep your rig plugged into shore power? I would research those questions first. Lithium batteries don’t like to be charged in cold weather. You may want to remove your batteries for winter. I have kept mine in but monitor throughout winter for right temperature. As far as the Calmark cover, you can loosen the straps and lift the cover to get into the battery cabinet. It’s a pain especially in winter. It would be nice to have an access zipper flap added.

I tried the Gas Stop but our propane generator didn't want to play with them. The Gas Stop see the the flow going to the generator as a leak and shuts off the gas. You probably have an automatic changeover regulator, your setup will automatically switch to the backup propane tank when the first one runs out, provided you leave both tanks open. That being said I usually only open one valve at a time and check my tank level by filling if its getting lighter. You'll probably get a sense of how much propane your using as you get familiar with your usage. Once I see the gage showing a sliver of red I'll change it. Haven't run out yet but I do watch it closely. I would suggest checking your propane hoses at the tank/regulator connection if you have any kinking or sharp bends. I put 90° elbows on mine when I added (tried) the Gas Stops and that made a major relief on the rubber hoses that from the factory have a pretty sharp bend in them.