Rolind

I have been very happy with my garmin mini 3. It is very basic and very small but does what I need. I also use the Dongar power adapter to connect it to the rear view mirrors power source.

Airstream makes a great trailer that is visually stunning and iconic. We loved our Basecamp; our trailer before our Oliver. I would recommend however doing a deep dive in Airforums before purchasing one. Things that immediately come to mind are a long history of poorly addressed front end separation by the factory, a devastating hailstorm at the Jackson Center production facility, and exterior skin failure at the mounts of the segment protectors. You may already be aware of these issues, and they often are not a deal breaker.

So I have a related question. I’m sorry about your difficulties with the touch lights. I am having a very annoying flickering of some of the gooseneck reading lights in our Oliver. Any suggestions on solutions or replacement? I searched the forum to no avail.

I am not familiar with your specific setup, but in general there would be no limit on the size of the battery bank that your charger would be able to charge. We usually get about 130-150 Amps of charge from our Xantrex inverter/charger depending on the settings of the Xantrex. As you mentioned, a larger battery bank will take longer to reach full charge. Generally Zamp external solar charge ports connect directly to the positive and ground bus bars, assuming the wiring has not been modified to connect to an internal mounted solar charge controller. I think most if not all zamp freestanding solar panels have a built in charge controller. If so, no other charge controller is needed. If your trailer doesn’t have rooftop solar, it likely doesn’t have a solar charge controller.

I wondered why there was water in the fresh tank if it was winterized also. I think the OP may be flushing the small amount of rv antifreeze out of the lines and freshwater tank when dewinterizing. I usually do with the fresh water drain open, and even if you fill the tank up a little bit, it takes a while to drain. That would also explain why the OP states it isn’t allowed at the campground. I usually don’t worry about the small amount of rv antifreeze draining onto the campsite. It’s mostly alcohol and just like breaking a good bottle of bourbon at the campsite wo the profanity.

Some heaters, maybe all have a feature that will stop further attempts to ignite after a certain number of failed attempts. Our is three. If this happens it can often be reset by turning the heat off and then back on.

I don’t have a great one stop source for all things solar, there are numerous online sources. I would start with the websites of solar equipment manufacturers such as Victron, Battleborn, Renogy etc. Exporist.life, and any of the solar forums are helpful as are this forum and even airforums and the other brand dedicated rv forums. As far as storage is concerned, we too have covered storage but are able to connect a 100w solar panel to a very inexpensive solar charge controller from Renogy using a solar panel extension cord. The panel is outside of the covered area and only gets a half day of sun, but is able to keep up with the parasitic load of the trailer and slowly charge up the batteries unless the battery heaters are running for a long period of time wo any sun. We have a zamp solar port on the outside of the trailer, but they are very easy to install if you don’t. Hope this helps point you in the right direction.

Will the range light? After changing out tanks or after prolonged storage, we sometimes have enough air in the lines that the furnace has a difficult time lighting or won’t light at all. I will usually then light the range briefly to at least purge the air from the lines to the range top. Usually the furnace will then light.

I’m not sure our situations are similar but offer the following. I believe an error code 20 indicates loss of communication between the converter/inverter and the remote display. We were getting an error 20 code whenever our batteries were significantly discharged and we then plugged into shore power. We concurrently experienced a cyclical shutdown of the xantrex cooling fan, and when the cooling fan was shutdown, usually for only 10 seconds or so, the charging current to the batteries would decrease dramatically . I was unable to link my phone to the remote when it indicated an error 20. Once the batteries were fully charged, I could clear the error 20 code but restarting the inverter and the remote and I think I also restarted the batteries as Rivernerd suggested above. Unfortunately the code would occur the next time the batteries were charging on shore power after being discharged. After multiple calls to xantrex support which was not very helpful, I finally updated firmware to the converter/inverter, the remote and also the communication firmware and have never had another issue. There are detailed firmware update instructions on the xantrex support page and also some less detailed instructions on an Oliver support page. There is at least one other thread on Oliver Owners Forum re error 20. The firmware updates are easy but have very specific steps and file names. I hope this helps and good luck with your problem.

We are sold on picaridin containing bug spray, preferably in a pump sprayer, the aerosol version sprays too much too fast and permethrin spray for clothing when traveling in high bug areas. We also have a bug zapper and a clam quick set screen house.

I would highly recommend the detail and ceramic coat from CGI in Murfreesboro. Our trailer was ceramic coated several months ago and looks amazing. All swirl marks and holograms were removed. The CGI guys did mention that they typically are at the Oliver yearly rally and will inspect and reapply the ceramic coat as necessary for an additional fee.

We have Oliver factory installed Truma and it does have a street side and curbside condensate drain. I think I remember that if the Truma is a retrofit install, the Truma doesn’t use the existing condensate drains.

Something that I have found helpful, is to clean out the accumulated debris under each bracket that acts as a damn holding the water between brackets. Once water is free to flow under the brackets, the ponding, stagnating and browning of the water with tannins is less of a problem. Also, we have the Truma air conditioner, and have found that unless the trailer is leveled just right, the condensate from the AC drains onto the roof instead of through the condensate drain and adds to the ponding of water.

We use KY ez pass and found it works well and was valid for most Florida toll roads. Haven’t been out East, north of SC. We originally didn’t have the trailer plate registered, but eventually got a notice in the mail that I was six months late in paying a toll. Apparently, a Florida toll road didn’t pick up the transponder but did read the trailer plate. I called and they were kind enough to waive fees, penalties etc, but I now have my trailer plate registered with ez pass.

The battery heaters would absolutely drain the batteries especially if the solar switch was turned off, or if there was a prolonged cold spell of cloudy weather. if you should take my advice on how to restart the batteries and charging, I would recommend turning the batteries on before the solar panel switch. I seem to remember that having solar on wo a connection to functioning batteries may damage the solar charge controller. i alway turn my solar switch to off when I turn off the batteries for long term storage to prevent this from happening.