HDRider
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Posts posted by HDRider
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Sitting in our Ollie with the AC blowing it is 96 degrees outside. Another Oliver is setting up across the campground.
About the only time to sit outside is 5 AM.
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Anyone use these? I think they are the new Oliver standard.
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39 minutes ago, Galileo said:
We had an issue with the touch light over the sink. It started acting intermittent last season, and then pretty much stopped working. Then for some reason, it “sorta” worked, sometimes coming on when touched, other times not. Oddly, when it was “off”, it stayed on dimly all the time. It got to the point I’d have to shut off the lighting master. I just didn’t want a light kinda working, and perhaps doing something bad - like starting a fire.
I ordered these lights from Amazon - thinking they were touch lights just as were already installed.
When I finally got around to doing the replacement a couple of weeks ago, I found they are NOT touch lights, having a physical switch in the same location in the center of the light as the factory installed lights do.
They look pretty much the same, and the mounting holes are close enough that no new holes need to be drilled.
You’ll need to drill out the three pop rivets holding the old light in place, and get a light duty pop rivet gun and the smallest rivers (1/16” I think) to install the new light. You’ll also have to pull out the rubbed rubber mat and thin plastic floor plate in the cabinet to access the wires. I used crimp-on butt splices to make the new connection.
Though I intended to replace the defective light with another touch light, I think I’m happier with a real switch as it more likely cuts the power off completely when off - where a touch light has to always be energized to sense your touch.
PS - I probably could have used the included sheet metal screws - or a bit longer ones - instead of pop rivets, as I don’t really like them that much.
My stove one is acting exactly like your sink one.
My sink one was acting up, but it seems to be fine now. I don't use the other touch lights very much.
Thanks for the link. Those seem to be the very thing I was looking for.
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Am I the only one having problems with the touch lights?
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2 hours ago, Tony and Rhonda said:
A previous owner had the "Yearly Maintenance Premium Package" completed in 2023. As best I can tell from the service sheet I have, there where 23 maintenance items in the package:
1. Inspect & Clean A/C
2. Inspect/Clean/Test Furnace
3. Inspect & Service Fridge
4. Pressurize & Test Plumbing System
5. Inspect & Service Water Heater
6. Decalcify Plumbing Lines & Fixtures
7. Lubricate Blade Valves
8. Lubricate Jack Pivot Points
9. Check Brakes, Repack, if req'd, Grease EZ Flex
10. Prep & Caulk Exterior
11. Perform LP Drop & Operating Pressure Test
12. Test GCFI function
13. Inspect & Test 7-pin
14. Inspect & Lubricate Coupler
15. Inspect Axle & Suspension
16. Check Tire Pressure & tread Depth
17. Inspect & Clean window Tracks
18. Charge & Load Test Batteries, if app.
19. Sanitize Fresh Water & Flush System
20. Wash Exterior
21. Clean Interior
22. Complete Torque Check
23.Complete Visual & Operational Test of Appliances
The service sheet says a 4-5 day appointment is required.
Price, as best I can tell was about $1600 but not everything on the list was done because the previous owner replaced the A/C with a Truma and replaced the 3500# axles with 5200# Never lubes. I don't know how, or if, these replacements changed the service cost.
Thanks.
I contacted Oliver via e-mail and got this. The price has went up and the services has went down.
Maintenance Performed
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Inspect & Clean A/C
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Includes cleaning coil & filters, removing debris, test operation, & check drain system
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Pressurize Plumbing & Inspect
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Includes leak testing Fresh & City water inlets, water lines, connections & fixtures.
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Inspect & Test Water Heater
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Includes visual inspection of fixture connections & operation
- Inspect Anode, if equipped
- Inspect LP Line
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Decalcify Plumbing & Water Heater
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Decalcify plumbing lines & Fixtures to remove calcium buildup
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Decalcify or flush Water Heater
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Inspect & Lube Blade Valves
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Test operation & lubricate valves
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Inspect & Lubricate Jacks
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Test operation, lubricate pivot joint, & inspect gears
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Repack Bearings, Inspect Brakes & Grease EZ Flex
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Inspect Brake components
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Inspect Bearings & Repack
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Grease EZ Flex zerks
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Recaulk Exterior
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Clean perimeter & recaulk joints
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Apply lap sealant on roof for additional seal for penetration points
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Perform LP Pressure Test
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Test LP Regulator for proper pressure & lockup pressure
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Perform LP Timed Pressure Drop Test
- Test LP lines for leaks
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Test GFCI Receptacles
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Ensure GFCI operation to all receptacles
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Perform 7-Pin Test
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Inspect & Test 7-Pin function, Clean Exterior & Grease
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Inspect Coupler Operation
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Test & Lubricate Coupler
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Inspect Axle & Suspension
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Visual inspection of axle & leaf springs
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Check Tire Pressure & Tread Depth
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Inspect & Clean Window Tracks
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Clean window tracks for proper drainage
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Charge & Load Test Batteries
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Clean/Sanitize Fresh Tank
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I have two of the touch lights, the one over the stove, and the one over the sink that work sometimes, and don't work most of the time.
I want a light with a real switch like the one in the bathroom.
I don't want to do anything to the existing light hole. I understand I will need a hole for a switch.
Has anyone done this?
What light did you use, and where did you get it.
Thanks
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I plan to take my Ollie to Hohenwald to get the leak fixed, along with a couple of other warranty issues.
I do my own maintenance, but I thought while I had her there I'd let the experts go through it.
This thing cost a lot of money, and I want my grandkids to use it some day.
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15 hours ago, John Dorrer said:
All you have to do is call Oliver and they will send a list of the services they provide for "Annual Service". I'm sure you can also do a search or on Facebook and get it.
I had used their "Contact Us" page. I have not got a response.
They rarely answer the phone.
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Can someone talk to me about the maintenance provided by the mothership at Hohenwald?
What all do they do?
Has anyone documented a detailed list of their service?
I could not find anything on their website.
Thanks
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I have come to the conclusion it leaks when the pump runs. Not sure where. I have looked everywhere but under bathroom sink.
Not sure why the pump cycled like it did. It has not recycled since I only filled to about 90%. Now it only runs when we use water. Maybe it went into some kind of vacuum spasm when I use the overflow outlet..
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I will fill to overflow and see if any new clues show themselves.
I guess I'll be taking the trailer to Hohenwald when we get home.
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18 hours ago, STEVEnBETTY said:
The fix Oliver came up with was to drill a hole in the bottom of the kitchen cabinet under the sink and tighten the hose clamp on that fitting. It only leaked when the tank was overflowing.
That must be a standard now. Oliver had me take the wood cover off under the kitchen sink. I checked and it was not wet.
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We have been on the fresh water tank all day yesterday and all night. It is 7 AM local time Saturday.
I filled the tank to 90% and hit the road yesterday morning. We were on FW tank all day Thursday and Friday.
We have been on the FW tank now for 3 days. Pump is normal. No leak.
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20 hours ago, topgun2 said:
The 80% fresh water tank being full and no leak while the fresh water tank at 100% full has a leak indicates to me that your leak is probably happening at or near where the overflow tube is "attached" to the fresh water tank.
Bill
That makes sense.
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1 hour ago, Snackchaser said:
I'm not exactly clear on what is meant by the weep hole, but I can share what I have experienced:
- The freshwater tank overflow also acts like a vent to prevent a vacuum as the tank is drained.
- I have noticed that when the tank is full, the overflow may start dripping again later due to thermo expansion or a change in the trailer level.
- A failing pump can cycle as if there is a slow leak because it's internally leaking from the low pressure intake side to the high pressure output side, even though there is no visible leak to the outside of the pump. A leaking pump internal check valve can also cause water to leak back into the tank, and potentially overfill again. If you think about it, all the water on the pressurized side, including the water heater and accumulator, can flow backwards through the faulty pump check valve and into the tank and you would only notice it if the tank was full and overflowing again.
Hope that helps! Geoff
There are 8 weep holes, two at each corner of the trailer. They have a little stainless steel covers over them.
The weep holes are separate and apart from the freshwater over flow.
The pump cycling only happens in conjunction with the weep hole leak.
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Thanks
What you are saying is helping!
I am really thinking there is a leak at a fitting.
The big fat open question now is: Why is it not leaking now when I did not fill to overflowing?
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Question - If the freshwater tank is full to the top how does air come in as water is pumped out? Put another way - How does a vacuum not form in the freshwater tank?
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20 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:
I don’t have any thoughts on why it doesn’t leek at only 80% full, but leaking only when pressurized usually indicates a leak somewhere.
The 80% thing has me scratching my head. Thought - Is it possible for the freshwater overflow to spill water in the hull? Then it would leak out. Saying that - Why would the leak continue on for so long and so steady? More head scratching....
When you say "only when pressurized", what does that mean?
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39 minutes ago, routlaw said:
I will take a stab at this. By filling the fresh water tank until it overflows via the weep holes you now have a tank that is so full the water will tend to flow out of the lowest point. Understand too the bubble level at the front is NOT a perfect indication of true level until its calibrated to a known source. What I am getting at is unless you know there is water leaking between the hulls I wouldn't worry about it too much so long as it's coming out of the weep holes.
However one way to check this is take your kitchen drawers completely out of the cabinets and with light in hand peer over to the outside of the trailer, backside of the cabinets at the floor area to make sure nothing is leaking into this area caused by a bad fitting. You could also prevent this by shutting of your water supply during fill up when tank indicator states 100%. On my Ollie even after 100% indication the water will keep filling for another few gallons until it overflows via the weep holes
Hope this helps
Rob
There is an overflow as described in the Owners Manual.
TO FILL THE FRESHWATER TANK FROM PRESSURIZED WATER: 1. Remove the cap from the freshwater inlet. 2. Attach a freshwater hose to an outside water source. 3. Attach the other end to the Oliver freshwater inlet. 4. Turn on the water source; fill until water starts to run from the freshwater overflow, which is located on the opposite side, between the aluminum steps and the refrigerator vent. 5. When the tank is filled, turn off and disconnect the outside water hose and re-install the water cap.
The weep hole leak comes later.
You have confused the weep holes and the freshwater overflow.
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Also,
The leak is not isolated to any one set of weep holes.
It always leaked out of what was the lowest corner at the time.
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Or, the mystery of the leaking weep holes.
I hope someone here can help me understand what is going with the leaks from the weep holes. I will state what I know as fact. Some of what I say will be conclusions I have come to based on evidence and experimentation.
We took off June 1st. I noticed the weep holes leaking the morning of our first overnight stay. It was leaking pretty good from the weep holes in front of the steps. It is not a stream. It is a drip, drip, drip kind of thing. I have looked everywhere except under the bathroom sink. No water anywhere.
Clue #1. It only leaks when the fresh water tank has water in it. Fact
Clue #2. The water pump kicks on about every 30 to 40 minutes when the fresh water tank has water in it.
Clue #3. I am pretty sure the leak stops if I turn the pump off. I have done this a couple of times, and I am pretty sure this is true. There are no leaks around the pump. I have checked multiple times.
I have been working with Oliver. We think a fitting has come loose.
But,
Mike asked me if we filled the fresh water tank until it overflowed. We do.
So,
Yesterday I filled it to 80%.
No leak this morning and the pump did not kick on while there was no water use.
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We have 6 hours of alone time on 101 this Thursday
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10 hours ago, Dennis and Melissa said:
Stop Tilamook for some ice cream or cheese curds. Yummy
That is planned for today. We got here about 3 yesterday and that placed was packed.
The drive was great. Not too much traffic and some stunning views.
We are staying at Cape Lookout.
We saw an Ollie
in Campgrounds & Parks
Posted
We talked to a young man working at the ice cream place across from the statue. He said on a slow day maybe 300 people take a picture of it.
The power of one line in one song!