dmtaylor2

I decided to go with a smart 32” TV and didn’t really care about watching it on the battery. Best Buy had an Insignia 32” Fire TV for $89 & I like the brand. It was a pretty EZ mod to the existing mount. I needed to lower the bracket & add a 1/2” plywood shim. A quick trip to the hardware store for some 2” bolts. Fits like glove!

I am having the same problem in my storage unit. Before the breaker pops, i don't have any lights in the microwave(easiest way I know to check for A/C power). I can hook up the front to my generator and all is good.

I found a good welder!

Same problem.

Steel, but square tube. Couldn’t be happier.

Hull #527 additional outlet. Some people were asking about adding an additional outlet for 120v possibility. I chose this location over others and I think it turned out well! Happy drilling.

Hull #527 ready for carrying bikes! After the factory tour, I wanted a bike rack receiver hitch but NOT the one they sold. At the time there was not a safe option for an 2” receiver. After buying a used LE II, I decided to look for a good welder. I am happier than ever with the way this turned out and at a fraction of the price.

For those questioning the casing "broken" like the pictures show, it was intentional! IF the set screws are seized, there is no other option. I was merely showing how I was able to remove. Thanks

I considered the CV-2 grease but chose to stay with white lithium. The real issue was in trying to remove the motor head to grease the drive pin as per OTT. The 3 set screws were impossible to remove. That is the only way the second yearly maintenance procedure can be performed.

SEE: HOW TO: VIP 3000 Electric Stabilizer Jack Service PART 2 If you want to remove the jack motor

I went to service my new to me, but used Hull #527. After repacking the bearings I moved on to the jacks. I watched the Oliver Video on the 2 part inspection. After reading another thread, I decided to remove the jack motors and take to the shop. Like another poster I got the front jack off with some difficulty using a 5/32nd allen wrench. The rear jacks stumped the process. After "rounding"off all hope , I was stuck. The drive side eventually came off but NOT the curb side. After days of PB Blaster & torch (careful around the hot water heater styrofoam!), I was unable to remove ANY of the 6 set screws. I called Barker Mfg. and spoke with Bob. Very helpful!! He suggested hitting the aluminum ribs (3 ea. with steel set screws, thus the "welding), but only 2 are even accessible if still installed in the Ollie. Bob, thought if you could get one off, it would come off. So, i decided to remove the motor that I had in the shop, and start whacking. Ultimately, I had to use a grinder w/ a cutoff wheel and cut along the rib and above the screw. That worked, however when I went back to get the curb side motor, it was not that easy. I had to score the 2 accessible ribs on the side of ALL of the plumbing and with a punch & hammer, the influence was real! I have 2 new casings on the way! I have already used some anti seize on the tongue jack screws. In hindsight, i would remove the motor with 2 nuts and would have prevented me from cutting the wires on the driver side. Good luck finding Mobilith SHC 460 Grease, except on Amazon. Bob said any hi temp grease( I used white lithium grease) would work, and I asked about filling the lower shell. He said just cover the gears, and it will fling grease all over. So I decided on this tube at O'reilly and can keep in the camper. To clean the housing & inspecting the hi temp red grease in the tube it was a lot of work this time. I ultimately decided against packing w/ CV-2 grease, like the other thread. Talking to Barker Mfg., I ended up just staying with this Sta-Lube. Then why did you do all of this, my wife asked? Can you imagine trying to replace a bad motor on a camping trip? At a minimum I would check the set screws as well.

I just discovered the same thing!