OffWeGo

Impressive! Thanks for sharing.

It's getting up into the high 80' here this week. We're going for a one week trip next week so I'll be testing things out. The big trip this summer starts out with a week in Cade's Cove, TN, where there are no hookups. This will be the real test of running the Chill Cube off the inverter. I'll be doing some test runs at home this week to see how long the ac can run on the (640 ah) batteries. With the unit on 50% (gear mode) and low cool its seems to be near 250 watts!

Thanks Don, excellent feedback!

Good point on including the Dometic thermostat with the old unit. I like the Honeywell thermostat too. Thanks again for all your help!

I wasn't sure I wanted the heat pump until I watched install videos from some very seasoned RVrs, and they both said they really loved the heat pump. At today's prices it was a $230 difference, so I figured I would go for it. As for what's under the bump on the roof...there are two globs of resin under the front end of the bump that are roughly 2" x 3". I haven't figured out a way to remove these without damaging the gelcoat. I might just repostion the bump an inch or two toward the rear to cover them up. I did figure out the slope of the roof from the front of the Chill Cube to the back is about 3 degrees. Furrion says up to 15 degrees in either direction is acceptable, so there is no need for the bump with this unit. Once I tightened the four installation bolts it sat down on the rear support pads the way it should. I got the unit fired up yesterday and its amazing! Not sure what to do to make the furnace work with the Dometic thermostat, or if I'll have to get a different model. Anybody know the answer to this?

Thanks for the quick response. I'm in total agreement with you. I'm really surprised at the response from Oliver, but, as you said, they probably don't want the liability.

I just spoke with Oliver Tech Support and they said they don't recommend removing the bump. I asked if there is gelcoat below the bump and they said there is. I asked if there is a hole below the bump and they said no. If I'm not mistaken, the only purpose served by the bump is to support the rear of the Penguin II. If anybody can shed some light on this I would greatly appreciate it.

Mounting the Chill Cube this morning and finding a slight interference with the “bump” that supported the Dometic. Anybody know if this can be removed and how difficult it is to take off? If not, I can modify the mounting feet on the new unit to allow it to sit down. Hate to cut up a brand new ac if I don’t have to!

Just wanted to check in and let everyone know the Chill Cube with Heat Pump is now available at United RV Parts in Texas. Looks exactly like the Chill Cube (not low profile). I should have mine installed today! I'm following instructions posted by @jd1923 and everything is going well. I was even able to get the old Dometic off the roof by myself by leaning an 8' step ladder against the street side and carefully sliding it down. Having the top of the step ladder near the edge of the roof made it easy to slowly work it off onto the ladder. The gasket on the bottom of the unit also helps to offer some resistance on the way down. I have the Dometic Penguin II (low hours, works perfectly) on FB Marketplace in Central Florida if anyone needs a replacement. Can't wait to get this Chill Cube fired up!

Thank you both for the helpful tips! I might see if I can Frankenstein something together on my own. If I get something made I'll post pictures.

To all of you seasoned, innovative Oliver owners... I would love to get feedback and insights on a tongue box design I'm working on. We've only owned our Oliver since November 2023 and we've camped about five weeks total so far and really love our LEII. We're planning a two + month trip this summer and I'm struggling with a versatile box design for the front. I've seen the product made by Seabiscuit and it's very well made. I would like to take it a step further and enclose the tongue jack and divide the box into a bottom section for a Honda 2200 generator and a removeable top shelf for chocks, blocks and other lightweight items. Please take a look at my sketches and let me know what you think. Thank you all in advance for your feedback. I really enjoy discovering all the creative mods posted here on the forum. FRONT BOX DESIGN.pdf

Thanks, Snackchaser for the part numbers! I haven't altered the polarity and it appears to match the schematic on the bottom of the unit. And TopGun2, it looks like the unit has only been used a few times, so it's all clean and the gap is good. Thank you both for the quick responses!

Hi Folks, Just got a new to us 2022 LE II. I noticed our cooktop ignitor isn't working. I get 12 volts to and from the pushbutton switch, but nothing coming out of the ignitor block that's mounted to the pan below the unit. The yellow power wire wasn't attached so I attached it. I tightened all the blade connectors and reattached them. Both burners light fine with a match, but not with the pushbutton. I've searched the forums and looked for the replacement part online, but the only sites that have it seem to be scam sites. The numbers on the block are DST2020-5442, 6AF042302. There also seems to be a part number 99009 that looks like it might be the same. Any help in locating the part or providing another solution would be greatly appreciated!