Snackchaser

We will be traveling overseas in a few days and I may not be able to respond for a while. Hopefully we'll be returning with our daughter who has been waiting 10 years to get through the legal immigration process🙏 Anyway, you're on the right track now, only remember that a current leak does not have to be on the specific component related to the mode. It also could be related to the neutral which is common in all 3 modes. Albeit, a neutral ground fault needs to be lower resistance for current to take the ground path. Think of it like this; 1 ohm or less is a direct short, under 1k on the neutral could cause a ground fault trip, anything under 25k on the hot side will cause a ground fault trip, anything up to a meg ohm is not great, but it might not trip the GFCI, and over a meg ohm is good insulation. Your right to relate the problem to heat, only the heat is just exposing an insulation weakness that is causing a ground fault enough to trip the GFCI. Do your testing after the breaker trips when it is still hot, or try a heat gun all over suspect insulation. Test hot and cold, and remember the resistance will change a little with temperature swings. Look for more significant changes. Since the power cord might have been pinched the first time you removed the oven, the heat could be softening the insulation at the pinch point causing current leakage there. It might not be easily seen, so It's worth examining very closely or just replacing the cord as a cheap first step. Hope that gives you something to start with. Good luck!

It still sounds like the oven is failing. Something probably has a high resistance short to ground when it gets hot, and it un-shorts after it cools. A GFCI doesn’t trip on heat or overcurrent, rather it detects a current imbalance such as a high resistance short to ground. It only takes about 5 to 8 milli amps to trip a GFCI, and you have tripped several different ones. The most likely culprits are the heating element or fan, and they can short due to moisture which explains why the microwave sometimes trips it. For example, if the heating element insulation breaks down when it gets hot or damp and leaks current to ground, then the GFCI will trip. However, this condition will not trip a normal breaker, or the ovens thermal protection elements. BTW, a thermo element will open the circuit, but that does not cause a GFCI trip. Your 0.02 ohms reading is fine. Don’t modify the cabinet either, because it’s not excessive heat that trips the GFCI. BTW, I’m sure you know this, but please be careful when removing the oven covers, the microwaves high voltage capacitor can give a nasty shock even when the oven is unplugged! You seem to have electrical knowledge, so PM me if you want help with some simple troubleshooting and possible repair of the oven rather than replacing it. It may take some back and forth that's better done outside of the forum. Good luck, Geoff

The Federal and State Trade Commissions say that companies are legally required to fix defects or honor claims reported during the active warranty period. Unfortunately, many companies are not aware of that. They are not obligated to honor claims identified after the warranty expires, but sometimes it's just the right thing to do.

I'd guess that one reason to use single valves rather than 3-way valves, is for ease of configuration. I ran into this when I replaced my single valves with 3-way electric valves, they have to be oriented correctly to get the correct flow paths and that meant there was piping loop-arounds to reach the correct ports. If looking at the flow paths for L-port or T-port 3-way valves, they will not work in @topgun2 drawing without a different pipe configuration... and then the simplicity is lost! Single valves are easier to configure in that tight space without loop-arounds, and they are easier to show in valve line-up sketches.

No worries! It gives us something to do! That is a Wago connector to splice two wires together. It has little levers on it so that you can pull the wires out. Other connectors might look similar, but without the lever, and the wires won't come out! Glad you found it! Happy camping!

I'm a little confused because you've said there is no power on either side of the optifuse, but you've also said that it tests good? Also, you mention a 2000 watt inverter, where you talked about a converter before. These are different things and wired differently. BTW, a 2000 watt inverter should have another ~200 amp breaker or fuse between the inverter and battery. That's not the problem, but you should be aware of it. Mine is mounted on the vertical wall above the inverter. At any rate, the battery and/or the inverter both feed the 12 volt panel (and jacks) via the 60 amp optifuse breaker. Re-check it for 12v from each terminal to ground. There are grounds all over the place in that area, the jack post, trailer frame, or the inverter chassis will work. If there is voltage on the line side, but no voltage on the load side, then you have a bad breaker. These breakers are readily available, and the failure rate is pretty low for the millions of them out there.

From the looks of those long tanks, and knowing that the level sensors are on the ends, just a few degrees off lengthwise level could result in significant tank level inaccuracies! Good picture! @Hokieman

That's a Through-hull marine fitting. Oliver probably added the insect screen. I looked at mine with a mirror and it doesn't have that black stuff. Me thinks it's clogged! I'd try poking a piano wire through the mesh while slowly adding water to the tank to see if it flushes out. Catch it in a white container to see what it is.

High pressure could cause enough turbulence to splash water up to the overflow tube creating gurgling and an air lock. An air lock can effectively block the vent tube. It's not uncommon, even with large industrial tanks! It's also possible that floating debris blocked the overflow tube as the tank filled, then it floated away afterwards. This is intermittent and it's happened with hole-saw plugs that were left in the tank during fabrication. I've always instinctively filled the freshwater tank very slowly, just a crack of the valve. The overflow tube is no match for my hose pressure and volume, and the tank is not designed to be pressurized.

Those are probably the emergency breakaway switch for the breaks and the CO monitor. They take a direct feed from the battery.

Looks like they installed a flexible tube and left a twist in it. You might try loosening a clamp and twisting the kink out. Unfortunately that kink could be set and it seems like too a tight bend even for a replacement piece. Oliver should address that despite the expired warranty, it was just a poor installation from the start. Good luck, Geoff

It looks like you're missing the hold-down jack screw. See my post: "A different refrigerator fan option" for a picture of it. It looks like the nut part is still there from your photo, so the bolt might be laynig in there somewhere. Look behind the master switch panel, through the round marine port access, that is where it's tightened or loosened from. Good luck, Geoff

First I’ll confess that I have no knowledge of how your trailer is equipped, or how it's wired. However, you have given enough clues to narrow it down: You likely have a 30 or 45 amp converter/charger that's an internal module of the 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC distribution panel. The 60 amp breaker is likely a direct feed from the battery to the converter/charger/distribution panel. It's no surprise you read 12 volts because it’s connected directly to the battery. The AC section of your distribution panel is probably fine because you have power to the microwave. The reason that the refrigerator and air conditioner aren’t working is because they need 12 volts DC for the controls and thermostat. Given all that, you likely have a blown internal fuse in the converter/charger, or a burned termination of the large red wire coming from the 60 amp breaker. Look in your documents for the converter/charger manual, it should show the fuse location within the module. Be sure to disconnect shore power and open the 60 amp breaker before poking around in there. Good luck, Geoff

You can safely put a maximum of 200 watts into the auxiliary Zamp solar port. It is polarity wired for a Zamp solar controller which is opposite of some controllers, so verify polarity of your panel and controller before plugging it in. Polarity reversing adapters are available for the Zamp port if needed. Your 400 watt panel would need a 30/40 amp controller, larger wiring, and a 30-40 amp fuse. Check panel rating plate and ask google to be sure.

I’ve been using Starlink in the Northwest for years, since being a beta tester for the first generation round dishy. Iv’e found that a pole mounted dish often get better sky-view angle over trees. I have a simple pole mount using a 10' stick of Electrical Metallic Tubing (EMT) that I carry under the trailer frame (see Tacky Starlink Dishy Mast). It was an easy and inexpensive mod, quick to set up, and it doubles as a flagpole if you're feeling patriotic. I stopped using a tripod stand a long time ago. When not using the pole, I just lay the Mini on whatever is near by, or even on the ground. A permanent mount is not optimal in tree county. We don’t use a dedicated carry case either, we just toss it on the bed or on the back seat. I’m all for having less stuff to pack up and carry. The Mini is watertight and robust, and you would be hard pressed to damage it. I prefer running the Mini from DC power over using the inverter for AC power. It's more power-efficient, especially if you leave it on 24/7 like us. The wattage losses from converting DC to AC, then back to DC add up. So I use a Victron DC voltage booster and it’s been a popular solution that has worked flawlessly for years. See: Starlink Mini installation, cracking the 12 Vdc barrier . . . or not! It’s nice having a portable battery pack for backup at times when there is no sky-view at camp, or to share internet with your buddies. I made a bunch of the “Everlanders” designed rechargeable slim packs that last several hours, but commercial options are also available. We depend on the internet for cell service, so battery packs or inverter AC power is not a good permanent solution for us. The bargain priced Mini router is usually not needed... until it is. Keep in mind that the farther you get from the dish, the weaker the WiFi signal, and the slower the internet. Weak WiFi can be mistaken for poor satellite reception, so try the router if you're seeing the spinning wheel of frustration! These can also be powered by 12 volts DC. See: The new Starlink Mini Router, for what ails you! for power options. So anyway, that's my two cents. Have fun in BC, but watch out for cell phone roaming charges, and don’t bring any produce back! We just got detained on the USA side last week because we declared a couple ears of BC of corn. They could have just taken the corn, but instead they made us maneuver the trailer into the humiliation parking area, then kept us waiting in the detention facility for an hour while they searched our stuff and freaked out the dog! But I have to say, the lab did a nice job at de-lousing and folding our shopping bag! Cheers! Geoff