
Snackchaser
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Snackchaser last won the day on February 10
Snackchaser had the most liked content!
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Gender or Couple
Couple
My RV or Travel Trailer
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Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
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Hull #
1027
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Year
2022
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Make
Oliver
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Model
Legacy Elite II
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Floor Plan
Standard Floor Plan
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Snackchaser's Achievements
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There are lots of Olivers with the keyless RVLock so I thought it's worth sharing our good experience with this great company. We decided to install an Amazon-purchased RVLock keyless door handle ourselves instead of buying it as an Oliver option. The installation was quick and easy, and it comes with a generous lifetime warranty. The locks are made in Utah by a small company, and they look and feel like a quality product. Unfortunately, however, there have been issues with the electronics because it has failed three times already! It first failed after about six months, and I called the company for the warranty claim. They wanted proof of purchase, then sent a replacement KPD keyboard and PCD circuit board with installation instructions. We were able to look up the receipt on Amazon and received the parts in a few days. It failed again about a year later, and RVLock still had me in their system. They immediately sent more replacement circuit boards with a new rubber keypad cover. This time, I applied sealer around the lock even though there wer I hope that this is the final fix because we genuinely love the lock and we wish success for companies that stand behind their products. Cheers! Geoff
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Recommend a clamp meter that will measure DC amps
Snackchaser replied to TxMN2020's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Well not completely! Clamp-on amp meters are great tools for RV owners, and many double as multimeters too. But it’s important know the differences and limitations to make an informed choice of which meter will meet your expectations. Clamp-ons are great for measuring higher currents, such as battery chargers and power feeds. But they're not great for measuring low currents, such as branch circuits and parasite loads. They don’t have the resolution needed for lower amps, and they can be finicky if not positioned just right. If you plan on measuring small currents, then get a basic Multimeter with a shunt type ammeter. They measure "in-line" with the current, typically up to 10 amps (+/- 1 milli amp.) Some clamp-on meters with built in multimeters, such as the Klein CL390, also include a shunt type amp meter. But check the specs because a lot of these are in microamps, which is too low for an RV’rs needs. Amperage is subjective of many factors, so if you're really serious, consider a $$$ data logging meter to see whats going on over time. The Victron smart shunt also has data logging (+/- 10 milli amps.) You can use it to measure the current of various loads by isolating the circuits and inputs. Having said all that, I recommend getting both a Clamp-on ammeter and separate Multimeter to cover all your amp measurement needs. You will probably be reaching for the multimeter most of the time. If you want some Oliver real life examples of ammeter accuracy, and how to measure parasite loads, see my post in the topic “Battery depletion rate 3% or more per day... with EVERYTHING off?” My post is way down on the third page with photos. Hope that helps, Geoff -
Geronimo John started following Snackchaser
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This is yet another modification for instant hot water. I was inspired by @Minnesota Oli who brilliantly installed a timed solenoid valve to circulate hot water from the bathroom faucet back to the freshwater tank. This saves from wasting water down the drain while waiting for it to get hot. I loved the concept of using a timer, but I went with a recirculating pump instead of a solenoid valve. We’ve used this design for about a year now, and it’s been very luxurious and effective. Not only does it help conserve fresh water, it prolongs the grey water tank volume which is now our most limiting factor when boondocking. The recirculation pump is started from momentary push button switches installed at each faucet. The button(s) activate a timer/relay that runs the pump for 25 seconds. Experimentation showed that 25 seconds sufficiently heats the pipes to deliver hot water at full temperature. The pump circulates the hot water back to the hot water heater, rather than into the fresh water tank. The new recirculation pump is the same model as the existing main pump. It was connected with flexible faucet hoses to reduce vibration and isolation valves so it can be used as a spare if needed. The pump was mounted on a plywood board fastened with construction glue to the vertical fiberglass surface by the furnace return vent. Note: Pump pressures can vary, so it might be necessary to slightly adjust the pump pressure switch to overcome the house pump pressure. Also, the pump may not overcome some of the higher city water pressures if a pressure regulator isn’t used. . . as it should be regardless. The Oliver has two separate hot water loops that I joined together so that the kitchen faucet is included in the recirculation loop. Being a shorter loop, there was less water wasted while waiting for it to get hot, but it's used more frequently so it's worth it to join the loops. There is plenty of room under the floor and behind the cabinets to run PEX return lines. “T” fittings were installed at the kitchen and bathroom faucets, and at the water heater input as shown on the drawing. Note: There was a buried 3-way valve, flexible by-pass hose, and a (clogged open) check-valve for water heater isolation. It was restricting flow and pinching the furnace duct so I completely removed it. The Water Heater can be easily isolated other ways if the need arises. The momentary push buttons were arbitrarily programed so that they must be depressed for one second before the pump will start. The buttons were non-intrusively mounted in 1/2” holes. The bathroom button is behind the existing bathroom pump switch, the kitchen button is above the sink, and the outdoor shower button is inside the shower wand enclosure. The sheathed button wiring is joined together under the street side bed along with the timer. I used terminal blocks, but wiring could be joined with any number of splicing methods. The button wiring carries no measurable voltage or current, it’s simply a switch to “low” (ground) for the timer trigger. Wire runs to the bathroom and outdoor shower switches are pretty straight forward, the bathroom vanity shelf needs to be removed for access. The kitchen switch wiring is laid under the liners in the upper cabinet, through the attic, and down the rear wall next to the clear AC drain tubing. I used a programmable timer/relay for the pump. An inexpensive (re-usable) Programer is also needed to program the timer. The Programer has built in App and Bluetooth for programing it on a smart phone and I’ve provided a screen shot of the program settings. This is truly simple to do, and quite fun! As many in this forum know, the Tuma Comfort II water heaters have a built-in circulation pump, controlled by temperature sensors, that keeps a small internal tank ready with hot water. Only one part (unavailable to public) differentiates it from the Truma Comfort II “Plus” that has a full hot water recirculating system. It took a few years, but I finally have the design details for that part and I’ll try to fabricate one when the Truma is removed for the up-coming factory recall work. More to come if I’m successful. The Truma “Plus” recirculation system provides true instant hot water (when not in Eco mode) because it keeps hot water circulating through the system based on temperature sensors. My system has a 25 second delay before the water is hot, then it cools down until the button is pushed again. This is less convenient, but more energy efficient because it doesn’t periodically cycle. I’m still on the fence which system is better, but fortunately the recirculation loop installed in this modification will work for both systems. Hope someone finds this useful! Cheers! Geoff Shopping list: Sureflow pump https://a.co/d/cSLUWEF 10 amp Timer/Relay https://a.co/d/g6C1zaZ Timer/Relay Programer https://a.co/d/9h1HtK6 Momentary switches https://a.co/d/i9wwhNs Terminal Blocks https://a.co/d/bkgrKhh Red PEX and fittings Flexible faucet hoses 1/4 turn valves
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Thanks! And I see how that poor quality photo could raise questions from observant folks. Only the spirit level was installed by Oliver. The bottom item is a 12vDC outlet for a macerator pump. Next is a rotary switch for electric valves that are used for freshwater tank drain, boondocking and winterizing line-ups. It’s described in the post “Electric valve control… with a twist.” Then there is a third water-pump switch for the outdoor shower, or when filling the freshwater tank from the boondocking port. This is described in the post “4-way pump switch for the outdoor shower.” Above that, are labeled LED indicators for the aforementioned pump and valves. Lastly a Levelmate with lengthened thumb screws for easy battery changing. They do look like toggle switches! Then my trusty pliers. . . they actually replaced quick disconnects that I found were too bulky and inflexible for my needs. Cheers! Geoff
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Could be a number of different things, but it wouldn’t have anything to do with the circuit breakers or park power. The fault will be at the GFIC outlet, or one of the downstream outlets fed by it. GFIC’s are not overcurrent devices, rather they detect minute circuit imbalances where either the hot wire or neutral wire is leaking current to ground. So one of the most common problems is moisture, usually in the outdoor outlet/box. Make sure the cover seal is good and dry it off as best you can. Another common cause is improperly wired devices, so make sure everything is unplugged. If that doesn't fix it, then disconnect the "load" side of the GFIC outlet and see if it’s still tripping. If so, then replace the GFIC. If it doesn’t trip with the load disconnected, the GFIC is okay and I’d go back to the outdoor outlet and really dry it well. Good luck!
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When doing hook-ups or departures from camp, I regularly find myself in need of water pump pliers to tighten and loosen water lines. . . which means digging out the tool box to find them. So I decided to mount a dedicated pair in the outdoor garage where they will be close at hand when needed. After looking at various options for storing the pliers, I settled on a small leather tool pouch from Amazon. It was low profile, could be easily mounted on the wall, and it didn’t take up precious garage floor space. The pouch also had pockets for a small flashlight and pen, which also can also be elusive items when signing in after dark. The tool pouch had a belt clip that was removed, and I stretched one of the pockets to fit my LED penlight. The leather is easily stretched by soaking it in water for about 60 seconds and using a dowel or other cylindrical object to expand the pocket. The leather is quickly dried in an oven at 130 degrees to hold the new shape. I chose a 7” Knipex Plier Wrench for my kit because of its high quality. They aren’t cheap, but the Oliver is deserving, and they are a pleasure to use. There are many excellent choices available for pliers, flashlights and pens. I just used what I already had on hand. Some folks might also be interested in my handy tool for stashing and retrieving things from the unreachable depths of the garage. This is simply a sanded length of 1/2” x 3/4” moulding with an aluminum angle screwed onto one end as a hook to pull things out. Oh, and notice the spring to pull the garage door suspension cable out of the way so it doesn’t get pinched in the seal like mine does. Hope you find this useful! Cheers! Geoff
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Truma water heater repair #3
Snackchaser replied to Galway Girl's topic in Mechanical & Technical Tips
I don't know about the noises, mine makes just a little noise. The circulation pump keeps hot water in the small reserve tank, so it's turned off to conserve power and gas in the ECO mode. Good luck, Geoff -
True. . . but they were terribly misleading because the circuit is energized directly from the battery, regardless if the alternator is charging or not. Think of it like a jumper cable connected to the battery, if you were to brush the red cable against any grounded surface of the vehicle then you're going to have big sparks like a welder . . . before any thermal fuse will blow. A circuit fused at 60 amps has significant potential and I think it would be somewhat negligent not to have a quick and easy means to disconnect it, as is the law in other applications. It’s straight off the battery, always energized, running the length of the vehicle, with a connector exposed on the rear bumper. Most mechanics wouldn’t have any idea what it is, and may not take precautions to avoid it. I love @Tom and Doreen idea of using a high amperage switch instead of a breaker. The switch is more obvious and it would do a better job at alerting someone of a high potential than might need to be shut-off. I’m keenly aware that I’m too forgetful, and I may not always be around. Cheers! Geoff
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No more chasing snacks in the dark!
Snackchaser replied to Snackchaser's topic in Ollie Modifications
Yes, the snacks are missing!!! Wifey has been notified and I can neither confirm or deny any involvement in their disappearance! -
I also used a Blue Seas MRBF 60 amp fuse, and I added a redundant 60 amp breaker just as a disconnect switch. The Orion output has a #7720 Blue Seas 60 amp fuse block, rather than a breaker. Just as a FYI: A breaker has polarity so it only protects the wire on the load side. In this unique application, you would have to decide if the breaker will protect the wire from the massive Oliver battery current potential, or from the 50 amp Orion charger potential. Whereas a fuse has no polarity, it protects the wire from both potentials.
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John, good discussion! The Orions protective features are based on voltage rather than amps, and alternator voltage will drop in an overcurrent current situation. Thats one of the Dropout Voltage functions, it protects the alternator from overcurrent. The Orion allows you to adjust the Dropout Voltage enough to compensate for cable voltage drop, but not enough to lose the alternator protection or engine-on detection features. I was pleasantly surprised when getting 35.8 amps output from the Orion, but it is capable of 40 amps. With the 42 amp input, it equates to 85% efficiency, where Victron claims 87%. The difference in my output / input amps can be attributed to both efficiency and cable voltage drop because even with #4 we are undersized. Okay I see whats going on, you have a “non-isolated” Orion! So the b- current is divided between the #4 wire and your frame. Those angry pixies will always take the path of least resistance, so as you rightly pointed out, the wire is taking 75% of the load because the frame resistance is higher. I hadn’t considered that because I use an isolated Orion and it carries the full input current on the wires only. I don't think it's a problem for you, if anything, it's helping. Humm? The 50 amp Orion is non-isolated too, so JD would be well served to buy an additional 12' of wire for the truck b-, and get a performance boost at little extra cost🤙 Good stuff man!
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Geronimo, JD, I also have the 30 amp Orion with around 90' of #4. With the TV at idle, and the lithium batteries around 60%, the average TV input to the Orion was 42.5 amps, and the Orion's output to the battery was 35.8 amps. Decent efficiency! Amperage flows equally in a loop, so the B+ and B- will always be the same value. Knowing that, the 25% difference that you were seeing between measurements was most likely due to the Orion auto adjusting the battery charging current, or changing the output current due to low voltage, or even the smart alternator searching. It's really hard to get a consistently stable amp reading with all that going on. The Victron smart shunt has a log feature that might provide a better overall picture of its performance. You have 18' more wire than me, and that will increase resistance and voltage drop more than it may seem. It sounds like you might also have some added resistance from using the frame through the hitch for B-. That can cause the Orion to reduce the output amperage, which reduces the voltage drop, which brings it back within the default set points. So it might help to change your Orion's default “Start Voltage” from 14 to 13 volts, and the “Shutdown Voltage” from 13.1 to 12.8 volts. I get into more detail in my post "More DC to DC charger Installation Tid Bits." You might also re-check the battery type settings while you're at it. A cooling fan would be good for the 30 amp Orion, especially considering it ramps down 3% for every degree above 104 F. I described a way to install fans using a 104 degree thermo switch so that it doesn't create a parasite draw. It's also in the afore mentioned post. FYI, I was checking into adding parallel wires with the existing #4 for a 50 amp Orion upgrade. Geez, I'd have to add at least a #1, but better a #1/0 to stay within acceptable voltage drop. That's a lot of trouble and expense so I'm going to stick with the 30 amp for now. I'm very pleased with its battery charging performance, but not so much for running the AC. Hope you will find this useful! Cheers! Geoff
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What is your cell phone speed without the Pepwave for comparison? The DC to DC charger will not work in reverse, otherwise it would charging the truck battery. The Victron is still a good option when using the Starlink supplied 50’ cable, which is really desirable when trying to find clear sky view when camping around trees. Starlink now offers a 16’ USB cable for in-motion use that would be a better option for the truck.
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Awe thanks, but you probably know more about it than I do! There is great information about using a Pepwave with Starlink on the YT channel “Mobil Internet Resource Center.” People primarily use them for better reliability and stronger WiFi for increased speed, and they would certainly supplement the 50 GB Starlink roaming data plan. The Starlink Mini’s built-in router is not as powerful and the speed decreases the further away it is. We usually get 100 to 150 mbps with the mini compared to reported speeds of 300 when using aftermarket routers, which is about the same as our Gen-3 dishy at home. However, 100 mbps is still a respectable speed. We’ve exceeded the 50 GB limit a few times. So we just pay for the extra GB’s as we go. The real expense is the extra snacks and cocktails for internet mooching visitors 😉 I seen Starlink dishy’s laying flat, but not a Mini so far. Not to say it wouldn't work! I think orientation is more important for them because of the small surface area. The kickstand and pole mount are angled and the Starlink App lets you know if they’re not pointed in the right direction. Which seems odd to me because the Mini is approved for mobil use and Iv’e wondered how well that works considering they're directional??