Snackchaser

I design stuff with a simple and free on-line program called Tinkercad, you can export designs as an STL file that is 3-D printer ready. A simple bezel design would take a few minutes. I started off using Voice-to-CAD, and AI generated designs, until I figured out how much easier Tinkercad is. I just watched a few tutorial videos on Youtube and the printer is pretty much plug and play. Honestly, I'm still re-wiring my brain to think of 3-D printing first, it opens up project possibilities that couldn't be done before. There are literally thousands of free ready to print designs for all sorts of things, including some great gadgets and parts you won’t find anywhere else. Check out websites like Thingaverse. Some designs, such as boxes, can be adjusted to any size, they have working hinges, latches, and sealing gaskets. A myriad of materials are available, including ABS, Nylon, and TPU, a rubber like material for flexible parts like gaskets. That “sealed” the deal for me. For mounting a new stereo in your larger hole, you could use JB weld to glue a couple of overlapping wood cleats on the backside of the hole for the mounting screws. Then make a bezel like Bill’s to fit. Geoff

Jd, you make a good point, I replaced a Furrion DV1230, and it is indeed smaller than the older unit you have. I 'll go back and make an edit.. BTW, a guy like you needs a 3-D printer! I can’t list all the tool parts, jigs and adapters Iv’e made. It's another tool you don’t know you need until you have it. You could actually print some pretty decent white grill covers, or a larger bezel to fit a new stereo in that oversized hole. Just sayin’ Cheers! Geoff

I get switches from DigiKey. Use the more common DPDT like the original one. Part number CW110-ND. Haven't seen any with threads and nut, so be carful to drill the hole the correct size. The problem is that the fiberglass is too thick for the switches to snap in properly. Therefore some adhesive is needed. Oh, be carful to keep track that the center wire goes back to center, the other two don't matter. Good luck! Geoff

After reading @aaronorange recent post about their missing furnace knockout, I was thinking that they would have benefited from a borescope to look for it. My daughter gave me one for Christmas last year and it’s been way more useful that I would have ever believed. I use it all the time, especially in the Oliver. I’ve found wire routing paths, looked in concealed spaces, found dropped screws. I even found a lost factory screw that was grinding away under the sewer pipe. The price for a horoscope varies from around $30 to hundreds of dollars. Vevor company has models for around $65 that are ideal. It’s one of those tools you don’t know you need until you have it. Cheers! Geoff

Jd, my Oliver came with Furrion fs65w speakers. They have white grills and at $20 each on Amazon they are a bargain. You might spend as much just changing the grills. I actually looked into replacing the Furrion speakers with Polk Audio DB652 to improve the sound. They have a broader frequency range and the sensitivity is improved from Furrion’s 86dB to 92dB. However, they have black grills, would need a 5.5” to 6” adapter, and they are about $50 each. The return didn’t justify the cost. I took another route and painstakingly measured the Furrion’s speakers Fs (free-air resonance frequency) to determine if a 3-D printed sealed enclosure or baffling would improve their sound. This involved injecting a range of frequencies through the stereo, then measuring the voltage at the speaker terminals through a 10 ohm resistor. The highest voltage was at 188 Hz, which is the point where the speaker resonates most freely. This indicated that the speaker suspension was on the stiff side and improvement was unlikely After all that, just the new IVR stereo was enough improvement that I completely forgot about replacing the speakers. Cheers! Geoff

You can drill with the collar in place, either a 1/4" self-drilling screw, or drill a hole for a #8 sheet metal screw. Best to tape it on before screwing, otherwise the holes can be hard to re-align. Those collars are a pain to install, and you were right to tape it in place. There was another post today where it looked like the blank hole seal might have fallen off someone's furnace. The PEX lines are definatly in the way, my duct was squashed to fit through, and the water heater by-pass valve handle had worn a hole in the duct. While you're in there, take a look at the water heater plumbing. There is a by-pass loop and valve to isolate/by-pass the water heater. This was one of the lines interfering with my duct. I removed it, mostly because I put in a hot water recirculating system, but it opened up space too. I don't anticipate ever needing to by-pass the water heater like that, and most folks probably don't even know it's an option because the valve is hidden under the duct. If there is ever a problem during travels, I'm just shutting the water off or bypassing the water heater by other means.

When I called Dometic for a part number last year, the lady couldn't figure out the part number for the little grommets. So she sent a bunch of parts including all the grommets, new knobs, new decal. For free! She was also very fun and cheerful to talk to.

Yes screws are necessary on all the fittings, clamps will not compress rigid fittings onto the furnace flange. But screws are not enough, also use foil tape on all the joints it holds very well and seals too! I see some remnants of the old foil tape in your picture, and it's readily available at most hardware stores. Geoff

390 ah is three batteries, 640 ah is two. You have three batteries, 390 ah. Also if you select one of the three batteries on your app, then go to page two, it will show capacity... 130 ah each

Ours has two sizes of grommets, double the trouble!

This was discussed in the Escape forum, someone linked a replacement from Panther RV https://pantherrvproducts.com/3314013-026p/ You should give them a call.

I’ve never liked the Furrion DV1230 entertainment center, it’s not user friendly and the front panel is difficult to read in low light. The tiny remote is absolutely terrible, and the larger upgrade remote isn't much better. I usually control it with the phone app when I remember where to find it, for some reason they called it "ES Control,” and it constantly drops out. The tech is outdated. Iv’e wanted to upgrade it for years, but never found a unit that met my requirements and justified the expense: Has to fit into the existing cutout (7-3/8" x 4") Controls that are intuitive and easy-to-read Decent remote control HDMI ARC ports on front and back (not the cheap HDMI pass-through ports) Current Bluetooth technology Two speaker zones Cost under $200 I found IRV Technology’s model IRV62 for a $180, and it had everything I wanted. https://a.co/d/0dODdwBi The controls couldn’t be simpler or easier to read. It does have a few less features than the Furrion, but nothing that will be missed. Like only 2 speaker zones compared to Furrion’s 3 and the Optical audio port that caused horrible sounding audio phasing issues between TV and stereo speakers. The IVR62 was a close fit on paper. But unfortunately Oliver had cut an oversized opening for the Furrion and miss-drilled extra mounting holes. Consequently, the new faceplate didn’t quite cover the extra holes, and the new mounting holes were on the very edge of the cutout. This was resolved with white JB weld on the edge of the oversized cutout to strengthen the screw holes, and I made a thin 3-D printed bezel that covers the extra holes. It’s not even noticeable. The print file is available if anyone has the same problem, or I made extra bezels if anyone needs one. The rest of the installation was easy, although it took a minute to figure out how the Furrion was mounted. There are 4 screws behind top and bottom trim pieces. These trims have small notches on the ends where they can be popped off with a screwdriver. It’s highly recommended to identify and mark each of the 4 speaker cables before cutting the connections. Use the wire color code legend on the back of the Furrion case to identify the right rear, left rear, right front, and left front. Also the IRV’s yellow “Bat” wire and the fused red “+12” wire are both connected to the Olivers hot wire, which was purple in my case. Other than that, the wiring is straight forward. The new stereo is so much easier to use, it works seamlessly with Bluetooth and the TV, and it sounds better too. I’ll be using it more often now that I don’t need a flashlight and reading glasses to operate it. Cheers! Geoff

There are not many decent replacements available, but the iRV RV62 was a good fit on paper. However there were fitment issues because Oliver miss-drilled the Furrion mounting holes so they weren't covered by the IRV faceplate, and the Furrion opening was cut to large so that the IRV mounting screws were on the very edge of the cutout. This was fixed with white JB weld to strengthen the edge holes, and a 3-D printed Bezel to cover the miss-drilled holes (can hardly tell there is a bezel in the picture). Let me know if you need one, I made extras. I'll probably do a post on the modification pretty soon because just the improvement of the controls makes it worth doing. BTW, I'm also annoyed by bright LED's, to the point where I posted a modification on how to dim the main panel switch LED's with in-line resistors. It's called something like "I was awakened by flashing blue lights." The IRV unit goes dim when off, not too annoying at all. Cheers! Geoff

I don't know what audio equipment you have, so this is probably not relevant. However, my system also had sync issues and it sounded like an echo chamber. This was because the Furrion stereo and Vizio TV were connected together with both HDMI ARC and Optical Audio cables. Sometimes the TV speakers would come on through the Optical cable, at the same time the stereo speakers were on from the HDMI. The Optical and HDMI have known sync issues and there is no reason to have both in this configuration. The Optical should be disconnected because sometimes it takes a minute to realize what's going on. I just finished replacing that awful Furrion unit, and my only regret is not doing it a long time ago! I replaced it because of the poor controls and Bluetooth, and I had also planned to replace the speakers for better sound. But the new unit works and sounds great, so I'm keeping the speakers! Cheers! Geoff

You are on the right track. However as mentioned before, the blue wire is part of the Fault/Reset and it is grounded through the switch light as seen in the schematic. That is causing the voltage drop you were asking about. Don’t use the blue wire because it creates a resistive current path through the reset switch light. The yellow/green was the intended ground wire. It was probably grounded through the old WH chassis that’s now gone. You are right in thinking to re-ground it. However, I'd cap it off unused because apparently it's not be properly grounded on the switch side. Just connect the new WH black wire directly to ground. Only use the red wire from the switch. The on/off switch will work for the new WH, but the reset will be disconnected and not used. The AC side is completely separate as you know, although the AC ground might have been the original ground path for the yellow/green wire on the old units chassis. Having said that, isn’t the new unit controlled by a separate panel? Is a power switch required? I’d probably splice the red wire to bypass the switch, and blank off the switch to avoid any future confusion. Hope that helps!