Micro-Air

Hi All and thank you for updating the forum thread Bill, Please feel free to contact us at the below web address for any technical help needed. Micro-Air Support Center (Contact the Team - lower right) Thank you all for your support and loyalty. Marc

Hi Overland. You actually have two choices. You can either remove the start cap/PTCR assembly and move the white wire you spoke of to the "C" terminal of the run cap. Or, you can simply remove only the red wire on the opposite side of the start cap/PTCR, which will sufficiently defeat it, and leave both white wires connected to the opposite terminal of the start cap as shown in the diagram, which then preserves the daisy-chain connection of N/L2 to the electric heater. We have a diagram that shows option #2 posted in our EasyStart™ Knowledge Bank. The specific diagram is at this link.

Hi again everyone. Our marketing consultant wrote up a nice summary of our attendance to the rally this year, and posted it in our news blog on our website. If you're interested, please check it out at the this link. Bill's photo came in handy!

Many thanks, Bill! I appreciate your posting them. We're going to use them in a article that we will soon post on our website about our attendance at the Oliver Rally. Hi again Malcolm. Many thanks for your compliments in spite of the grand disappointment after all the hard work we did together and on your own. I was relieved when you finally got the generator to work at Lake Guntersville State Park as I'm sure you were, but I was unaware your home was at 5350 ft. If I had known that, I would have expressed some doubt about it working there. The reason is because our customers' collective experiences with Honda EU2000i generators running on propane has only provide confirmations of their being able to start and run their A/C units - with EasyStart of course - up to about 3000'. We have never received any reports (success or failure) from anyone running on propane above that altitude. As I reported to some other folks at the rally, we do have confirmed reports from customers being able to start and run their A/C units with EasyStart up to about 6000' on a Honda EU2000i, but on gasoline AND after rejetting the carburetor. In any event, I'm very sorry for your disappointment. Maybe a one of those larger, 3500W Champion dual-fuel generators might work for you, derated of course for your altitude (-16%) and when using propane (-10%). That results in a running wattage capability of 2419W. And the Oliver generator tray might allow you to load it one time and not to have to pick it up and carry it since it's about twice the weight of your Yamaha. Just an idea. Thanks again.

Hi again Scott. Thank you for posting here so I could follow up with you on the additional information. First, the detailed (and very boring) discussion about my Honda EU2000i failure symptoms, diagnosis, and repair is available at this link. The Honda part number for the stator winding that finally fixed the problematic Honda is 31125-Z07-C31. There are a couple different stator windings out there since older serial number EU2000i generators (like yours and mine) use this one, and the newer ones use another. I purchased the stator via special order from a Honda parts dealer in California that I had previously done business with via eBay, All-Pro Engine & Mower Supply (www.Allpro92530.com, owner Ray Gilstrap atallproengine@gmail.com). Ray was very helpful and had the best prices. You can also get it and any other part for your Honda from Jack's Small Engines (https://www.jackssmallengines.com/), from which I also purchased a lot of parts during my 10-month odyssey! Thank you again for your support throughout the rally.

Arrived a few hours ago. From the lodge, the view is quite amazing. Checked out the campsite too and talked to Coy. Lots of Olivers in the house!

Micro-Air will be there!

Hi Kathy. Thanks for the request. I will be responding to you via direct e-mail shortly.

Hi Scott.You're not entirely alone in your situation. We at Micro-Air have received widely scattered reports over the past year, perhaps 0.5% of our customer base that uses Honda EU2000i generators, who have had issues with them not being able to maintain power output up to their full 2000W maximum rating due to some sort of internal generator problem. Back in May, I actually purposely bought and now own one of these problematic Honda EU2000i generators to try and figure out what is going on. All the problematic Honda cases may be due to different causes, so you have to eliminate the simple stuff first. Via parts swaps and other testing as prescribed in the Honda service manual, I initially eliminated the inverter electronics, fuel delivery issues (carburetor, fuel filter, and fuel pump), spark issues, air delivery, and then ended up going after what I believe is a loss of compression at high temperature (full load). I have torn down the engine to the last screw and piston ring twice now, and have replaced critical and different engine parts to try and pinpoint the problem. Sadly, I still have not figured out what is wrong with it yet, but haven't given up. (I have most of this entire saga with photos, documented separately in a power equipment forum at this link). To be able to help you further, please describe in greater detail the "shutting down" behavior you are experiencing with your old Honda generator. Does the A/C startup fine with EasyStart, run for a few minutes, and then does the generator shutdown, or does the compressor shutdown? If it is the generator that shuts down, does the motor simply quit, or is it lighting its overload LED, or is it doing something else? The exact details here are obviously important, so fill us in on exactly what it does and I might be able to help you further.

Hi again. I'm a little confused. The EasyStart affects your compressor identically in both cooling mode and in reverse-cycle heating mode, so the same noise reduction you enjoy in cooling mode should also be apparent in reverse-cycle heating mode. Is it the noise from the fan turning on and off that is the issue, and were you working around the fan cycling on and off in cooling mode (summertime) by simply setting the thermostat low enough (56 deg) so that the unit never cycled off?

Brad - Thanks for providing the information. That is what I was suspecting. Dometic ran the suction line tube in this corner using a slightly different pattern with the heat-strip model versus the heat-pump model since the destination is the compressor's accumulator versus the reversing valve, respectively. Sometimes the same interference happens even with the heat pump models. Having worked in the Dometic marine A/C factory for 10 years, I know from experience that soft copper tubes can be adjusted to a degree without any harm to them or the braze joints, providing it is done carefully and with the bend spread out over a long distance. In this case, The Penguin II has an elongated S-shaped or double-loop tube pattern that is an easy candidate for adjustment. This long pattern is meant to provide vibration isolation of the stationary portion of the tube (evaporator exit) with the vibrating portion of the tube (compressor accumulator). Also, you'll need to rotate the rubber vibration damper a little bit in order to provide some additional clearance. Make sure the vertical segments of the elongated S-shape stay vertical and none of the copper tubes contact the case of the EasyStart or anything else. When you do the actual adjustment, ensure that one hand is placed on the tube exiting the gray evaporator box (where the gray putty and 2 black wires are) to keep if from bending too much (avoid a kink), and then gently "twist" the elongated S-shape a bit at a time to move it into position. See the attached PDF document for details. This type of minor tube adjustment is routine in the HVAC industry, so have no fear. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks again. Dometic-Penguin-II-Suction-Line-Adjustment.pdf

Hello Bradbev. I believe I know what your issue might be, but before I make a suggestion, I need to confirm if you have the Dometic Penguin II model with the electric heat strip or if it is the heat pump version. I'm also assuming your trailer is newer than 2013, which means it would have the Dometic Penguin II. Let me know and I can provide the solution.

Hi again everyone. I hope all is going well with everyone's summer vacation travels with their Oliver TTs! Micro-Air and Oliver have recently dialogued, and the Oliver team will be offering the EasyStart as an installed option and aftermarket accessory with some of their own future discount promotions. This is great news for everyone. Micro-Air is therefore going to discontinue the "OLIVER" discount coupon that we have been offering (for direct Micro-Air purchases only) per our original plan on August 31, 2017. DIY installations and purchases are still always welcomed of course, and Micro-Air will always be happy to help out anyone at any time. Please contact Brent Robinson at Oliver Travel Trailers if you have any further questions about purchasing an EasyStart through Oliver directly. Thank you again to everyone for the business and for all the great support of EasyStart!

Wow. Okay then. That almost makes the conclusion a certainty. I would check a few things in this order: 1) Condenser coil dirt and/or corrosion - the number 1 cause of an A/C drawing more current than it should is a blocked or compromised condenser. Sometimes, the aluminum fins can corrode on a condenser, restricting its airflow. Other times, it might just be built up dirt or debris restricting its heat exchange capability. You might need to get some of that foaming coil cleaner from Lowe's or Home Depot and do a treatment followed by a hose down. 2) Condenser fan dirt/debris or a break in the gasket on the top cover - If the condenser looks good, check the outdoor fan squirrel cage for caked on dust or debris, which can cause turbulence and reduce CFM. Also, make sure the foam gasket at the top of the A/C is intact since when the cover is installed, the seal created for the condenser "air box" forces all of the air drawn by the outdoor fan through the condenser coil rather than around it. 3) Run capacitor degradation - a run capacitor that is supposed to be say 40MFD that is now only providing 20MFD will definitely cause a compressor to draw more amperage that it is supposed to. Many multimeters have a capacitance test feature built in. Check the run cap with nothing connected to it to see if it is still whatever the rated MFD value is stickered to the side of it.

Hi Scott. Given that you were measuring steady-state amperage that climbed to the 18-20A range, this is not an issue with your generator. Honda EU2000i generators can sustain 16.7A (2000W) at best. Something else is going on with your trailer. Either the A/C is drawing more than expected, or another auxiliary load was on in your trailer. Turning off the battery charger (converter) is sometimes hard to do since it is out of sight and out of mind. Do you know for certain that all other loads in the trailer were eliminated as a cause? If so, then yes, something isn't quite right with your A/C unit. Even in 100°F conditions, our Dometic Penguin II at the factory draws no more than 16A. More typically, they draw 14.5A.