Rleog

No luck after changing the GFCI. I used the better module that HD had in stock, the Leviton GFCI model GFNT1-RW, 15A-125V. The original unit has two line inputs (4 wires, 2 black, 2 white), and 1 load output (2 wires, 1 black wire, 1 white wire). There is also a bare copper ground wire attached to the green terminal on the bottom of the unit. I wired the new unit precisely the way the original unit was wired. This outlet had worked fine for the 1 3/4 years that I’ve had the trailer, so the original wiring must have been correct. When I restored power, a green diode on the front of the unit illuminated (there are both green and red diodes) but there is no power from the outlets. None of the other outlets have A/C power (kitchen, outlet above TV), the microwave has no power but the refrigerator continues to function on A/C. All of the USB outlets continue to function. All blade fuses are functional and no circuit breaker is tripped. Overland, the YouTube video was informative and reinforced that I had wired the unit correctly. Still stumped.

Thanks LandRover, Overland and John for the quick replies. One thing that I found odd about this was that the outlets near the TV and the kitchen countertop both worked for about a day before they stopped functioning. The problem then became a real crisis because the Keurig could no longer be used! I unscrewed the GFI outlet to look at the wiring. All wires are securely fastened to the screw terminals. I purchased a new GFI outlet at HD yesterday evening. That’s today’s project. Thanks

The dinette Alternating Current receptacle GFI tripped when I tried to use it yesterday. The red diode on the receptacle illuminated but the reset button would not allow it to reset and resume function. I can depress the reset button fully but it does not reset; red diode stays illuminated. No circuit breaker or fuse is tripped or blown. From when this happened yesterday I was still able to use the A/C receptacles in the stove area and above the TV, but this afternoon all A/C outlets, including the outside curbside outlet, stopped working. Again, no fuse is blown. The refrigerator and air conditioner still function on A/C. Stumped.

Hi John Please excuse my slow response. I don’t check in here regularly. A and B: I have 2017 chassis 244, which does not have the EZ Lube spindle connectors that would allow a bearing “flush” with fresh grease. I formerly owned a Casita that did have the EZ Lube design. I think that the 2018 Oliver models do not have the EZ Lube spindles. C. Backing plates on my wheels have two oblong openings at the bottom that are used for adjusting the brake shoe “star” cluster. I don’t think that you can visualize the shoe wear through these holes. There is a small circular hole (~1 cm diameter) at the top of the backing plate. I’m not sure if this can be used to visualize the brake shoe wear either. Maybe someone else can clarify. D. In the wheel bearing lubrication section of the Oliver manual, no mention is made of replacing the inner bearing seal if the hub is removed. E. I repacked my bearings recently at nearly 10,000 miles and noticed no uneven wear on any of the bearings or spindles. Similarly, there was no excessive or uneven wear on any of the brake shoes. Hope this helps, Bob G

Where did you purchase the metal carrier/basket? I see a basket with solid metal sides in the Oliver add on section.

Thanks for documenting this potential problem. I'm monitoring wheel temperatures with the type of infrared thermometer that you recommended and so far (8000 miles) have only had one unrelated problem. I'll be thoroughly going over the brake adjusters when I repack the wheel bearings in another 2000 miles, likely in October. Bob G.

A couple of questions. What's the towing capacity of your Land Cruiser, and do you have an engine oil temp gauge (if so, what were the temps)? Bob G.

Thanks, guys. Here's what I found: CE4340AC-C134-48BE-B5C3-1A9F901862EC Note the black weight attached to a cord that assists the extendable faucet nozzle when it retracts back into the faucet. This weight swings like a pendulum within the space behind the drawers and likely smacked my fridge plug enough times that it eventually knocked it out of the electrical socket. Fridge works fine on AC once it's plugged in. Duh. I moved the "pendulum" to the other side of the sink drain pipes and wrapped it in a spongy foam material. Sad that it took me this long to figure this out but I mistakenly assumed that I was getting power to the fridge because the front diodes all lit up. I was getting power....D.C. Power. Bob G

I have a 2017 LE II, chassis 244, with the Dometic RM2454 fridge. For a couple of months, in use for perhaps two weeks, the fridge worked on AC, then one day switched to gas and could not be restarted on AC. I used the fridge last fall (one week) and this past March (3 weeks) on gas because it would not startup with AC power. I've checked the 3 A and 5 A AC fuses, as well as the 30 A DC fuse; they're all fine. The power cord at the rear of the fridge passes through a partition/wall at the left of the fridge rear, so I cannot view the power cord connection to an electrical outlet. Pulling out the kitchen counter drawers does not give a view of the connection either. Any suggestions about how to go forward in troubleshooting this? Bob G.

Thanks again. Just ordered a temp gun. Bob

John Thanks for taking the time to comprehensively document this potential problem. I don't think that I have this problem because the trailer seems to be braking evenly. I'll be doing the 6000 K bearing service soon and will then have a close look at the brake assemblies and wiring. If my brake controller wires are the same as yours I'll likely change them out also, following your well illustrated examples. Bob G.

The Dexter Axle Genuine Replacement Parts, K71-717-00, Bearing Kit #84 for 3.5 K Spindle arrived today. Stamped clearly on the bearing is "China." Perhaps these are high quality Chinese bearings, and perhaps that phrase doesn't contain an oxymoron. It's likely that these are the bearings that are stock on Oliver trailers with 3.5 K axles. Bill: thanks for posting the link to cross referenced Timkin bearings. These kits are from Southwest Wheel, Dallas. Bob G.

To update this thread: The axles that I have are the D35 The Dexter bearing kit is K71-717-00, and the inner bearing is L68149, outer L44649, as John's link stated. Dexter lists the kit for $37.46. I ordered the kits from TrailerPart.com for less. John, when the parts arrive I'll update this thread to let everyone know if the bearings are stamped, "China." Bob

Thanks for your reply, John. Those eTrailer links lead to $3.38 and $4.77 Chinese bearings. While they may be alright, I have the time to search for what may be higher quality bearings. I'll take your advice on the Timkin bearing seals. I too have destroyed seals during installation. Thanks, Bob

I have the serial numbers and will call Dexter tomorrow. Thanks, Bob

2017 Legacy Elite II. As has been stated, it has the Dexter 3500 lb capacity axles. The Dexter web site lists several axles in the 2300 - 4000 lb capacity: D30 #10L 545 Hub Group with 10" x 1 1/2" brakes D35 #10. 545 Hub Group with 10" x 2 1/4" brakes D40 #10F 545 Hub Group with 10" x 2 1/4" brakes I ask because I'd like to order a couple of spare sets of bearings and seals from Dexter. All of the parts and their serial numbers are listed on the Dexter web site. Which axle is it, the D30, D35 or D40? Thanks Bob G

Efficient looking 2x8's stabilizing jacks in that jpg photo.