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Everything posted by Rleog

  1. Of the 16 sets of bearings/races for the 4 wheels, only the one outer bearing and its race were damaged. There was no excessive play, nor was any bearing torqued too tightly. I used the same procedure on all wheels. The grease is Mobil 1 Synthetic. Mobil 1™ Synthetic Grease, the official automotive grease of NASCAR, is an advanced full synthetic grease formulated with a proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks and a lithium complex soap thickener. The thickener system provides a high dropping point, while additives impart excellent extreme-pressure properties and resistance to water wash, rust and corrosion. The proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks used in Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease gives reliable lubrication over wide temperature ranges -50 C (-58 F) to 246 C (475 F). Outstanding structural stability coupled with high performance synthetic base stocks make Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease an outstanding all-purpose automotive grease.” Excellent Resistance to Rust and Corrosion • Longer life of bearings and chassis lube points when exposed to corrosive environments Outstanding Structural Stability • Provides effective lubrication over extended periods of time Exceptional wear protection under heavy loads • 20 % Improved wear protection 2. • Provides bearing protection while cornering and other conditions where bearings temporarily experience heavy loads. Excellent resistance to water wash • 40% better resistance to water wash out3 from heavy rain storms or exposure to high amounts of water. Improved grease bearing life • 3X improvement in grease bearing life4. (From the Mobil 1 website)
  2. Hull 244, LE II. 2017 Approx 30,000 miles on the trailer. Bearings first repacked at 9,100 miles. Repacked a second time at 22,000 miles. After another ~8,000 miles I decided to inspect and repack them again. The pics below are the outer bearing from the L (streetside) forward wheel. I carry an infra red temperature ‘gun’ and regularly monitor the wheel temps near the hub when on extended trips. There was no indication of that wheel having elevated temps. I also carry spare bearing sets and tools to change them on the road. I changed out all 8 sets of roller bearings and races yesterday and today. This outer bearing and race was the only pair that was damaged. Carry spare bearings.
  3. Good idea, adding to the fresh water tank via the city water inlet by altering that lower right valve. Didn’t occur to me, Duh! Good to hear that changing that check valve may not be difficult. I just have to get ahold of the right wrenches. Thanks, Bob
  4. Thanks for your suggestion, Frank. I’m familiar with the valve configurations.
  5. 2017 LE II, Hull 244. I could not add water to the fresh water tank using the streetside fresh water connection. Upon removing the small screen at the inlet of the connector, these bits were removed. The line remained occluded. A one way valve within the brass right angle fitting to which the pex water line tubing is connected had malfunctioned. I disconnected the water line at the brass fitting and attempted to free the occlusion with compressed air, unsuccessfully. Fresh water pex line disconnected The brass section that contains the one way valve. I was able to free the occlusion once another piece of the one way valve assembly was extracted. The additional plastic piece that, once removed, allowed water to flow. Obviously the check valve doesn’t function now but I can use the streetside fresh water tank connection to fill the tank. It’s important now to keep the outside cap firmly plugged to prevent back flow, particularly when using the boondocking port. Previously that port was the only way to get water to the fresh water tank. Within the confines of the basement I could not get wrenches onto the brass fittings to disassemble it. Equally obvious is the need for a new one way valve within this fitting. Next time I happen by Hohenwald maybe they’ll lend a hand.
  6. “Though I'm also mostly recalling it from the elevated highway days” In those days that would have been a terrifying route choice. Today it’s just a bold route choice.
  7. Hi to the couple from Maine, Oliver owners, who greeted me in slowly moving traffic Saturday. BTW, cool Oliver thermos.
  8. Had a bit of a delay coordinating with a friend to use his drill press. With the aid of John’s detailed instructions, here was my installation. First a couple of pics of the receiver, showing how the steel channel sides are not strictly parallel and the top is slightly bent or shallowly “U” shaped. Another pic shows the weld at the rear of the reinforcement steel tube. That weld prevents the Oliver aluminum tongue from sliding forward to directly contact the steel tube within the receiver hitch. If you force the receiver onto the aluminum tongue the forward section of the receiver is raised by the height of the weld. Good luck getting accurate measurements for drilling if that occurs. To measure for drilling I set the receiver onto the tongue in a stable manner then scribed lines onto the aluminum tongue along the bottom and rear edges of the receiver. Measurements to center of the bolt holes were then made and recorded. After a friend drilled the receiver holes with a drill press, I found that the rearward holes lined up well but the forward holes were ~2 mm off on street side and ~1 mm off on curbside. Then it was a matter of enlarging the holes for a proper fit. Once aligned there was priming, final paint coats and installation. Thank you, John Davies for this two year old valuable thread.
  9. Ordered. TYVM. Glad you happened to be hanging out on the forum when I posted.
  10. Already got a reply from John. Whew! That guy is efficient. Thank you, Sir.
  11. Forgot to mention that I have a 2017 LE II, hull #244.
  12. I’m upgrading and have chosen the 2 5/16” ball, as recommended in John Davies very well written post from a couple of years ago. The upgrade to the newer hitch is still offered by Anderson for $100. I received the hitch today. I now need to order the correct 2 5/16” bulldog coupler. John’s instructions are explicit and thorough. I’m certain that I’ll be able to do the installation. I just need to be sure that I have the correct 2 5/16” bulldog coupler. John, can you supply information or a link that directs me to the correct 2 5/16” bulldog coupler? Help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  13. Hi John I am in the process of upgrading to the newer Anderson hitch, which I ordered with the 2 5/16” ball. The upgrade is still offered for $100 by Anderson. I now have to get the 2 5/16” bulldog coupler and use your detailed post to guide me through the installation. Can you supply a link or description of where I can order the correct bulldog coupler. I have a 2017 LE II. Thanks
  14. Can someone kindly post the link to Oliver’s service posting about this jack. I read it this past winter but can’t recall where it was located, nor can I find it in the Service Bulletins section. Thanks.
  15. Hi Beyond The dry weight of the current LE II is listed at 4900 lbs on the Oliver website. I just looked through my 2017 manual but couldn’t find the unloaded dry weight of my trailer. I travel with the fresh water tank low and carry some of my gear and supplies in the back of the SUV, which usually has 2 adults and one ~70 lb dog. I had the Cayenne on a scale at a waste disposal site once. With me onboard and nearly a full tank of gas but no cargo the weight was 5.040 lbs. I have the Anderson hitch. I’ve often wondered how effective it is but have never towed without it. I’ve not had any problems with the tail wagging my SUV, though my Golden Doodle often wags me. You’re spot on with the statement that, with 28000 miles towed, I’m more than happy.
  16. Here’s another data point: 2012 Porsche Cayenne V6 gas, 300 hp and the same number for torque, towing capacity 7700 lbs. LE II loaded to approximately 5500 lbs; trailer tire pressure ~60 psi. I’ve towed my 2017 LEII approximately 28,000 miles which included three trips to Oregon from Boston. I generally cruise near 70 mph. Ave 13 mpg.
  17. I just left Joseph yesterday after spending a couple of nights at the Walawa Lake State Park campground. The weather didn’t exactly cooperate but I drove up to Hell’s Canyon Overlook. Beautiful spot and there were a few breaks in the clouds but no panorama views suitable for framing. On the way there, at Pendleton Mills, Pendleton, Oregon, I saw this in the parking lot. Florida plates. Didn’t see the owners.
  18. Spotted at the back of long term parking in Oakridge, Oregon, just prior to the start of the Cycle Oregon Classic ride (CycleOregon.com). ........ A classy, high quality, well built RV ...... parked next to an Airstream.
  19. I just installed mine an hour ago. Thanks for this suggestion.
  20. Sherry hit the ‘ole nail on the head (and probably should have hit my head with the hammer). The original outlet was faulty. The replacement (Leviton) was good. The replacer was faulty. Line and Load are arranged differently by these two manufacturers, as shown in the picture above. Note that the green ground terminals are arranged in the same relative position, which can lead to further confusion. Sherry, I would drink a toast in your honor but, as you know, they don’t allow alcohol at Ft DeSoto Park. Thank you to all who attempted to help through this thread.
  21. Thanks for the suggestion, Mike and Carol. I systematically went through all connections that I could view and reach, notably the bus bar and fuse box. I couldn’t find anything loose or amiss. Unfortunately the problem persists. We’re currently at Ft DeSoto Park near St Petersburg, FL, for a two week stay. It’s a place that should have been on the top ten RV parks to visit in Florida, beautiful with spacious sites. Lots of passers by are impressed with the Oliver and stop to chat. So far no one has had a solution for this electrical issue.
  22. No luck after changing the GFCI. I used the better module that HD had in stock, the Leviton GFCI model GFNT1-RW, 15A-125V. The original unit has two line inputs (4 wires, 2 black, 2 white), and 1 load output (2 wires, 1 black wire, 1 white wire). There is also a bare copper ground wire attached to the green terminal on the bottom of the unit. I wired the new unit precisely the way the original unit was wired. This outlet had worked fine for the 1 3/4 years that I’ve had the trailer, so the original wiring must have been correct. When I restored power, a green diode on the front of the unit illuminated (there are both green and red diodes) but there is no power from the outlets. None of the other outlets have A/C power (kitchen, outlet above TV), the microwave has no power but the refrigerator continues to function on A/C. All of the USB outlets continue to function. All blade fuses are functional and no circuit breaker is tripped. Overland, the YouTube video was informative and reinforced that I had wired the unit correctly. Still stumped.
  23. Thanks LandRover, Overland and John for the quick replies. One thing that I found odd about this was that the outlets near the TV and the kitchen countertop both worked for about a day before they stopped functioning. The problem then became a real crisis because the Keurig could no longer be used! I unscrewed the GFI outlet to look at the wiring. All wires are securely fastened to the screw terminals. I purchased a new GFI outlet at HD yesterday evening. That’s today’s project. Thanks
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