Rleog

I was about to order a set of these stainless steel lug nuts but noticed, at the bottom of the eBay item description, that they are described as Acorn, not Bulge Acorn. Trailer Wheel Lug Nut Package: Contains 24 Lug Nuts Composition Type: 100% Solid Stainless Steel Shape: Acorn Style Thread Pattern: 1/2-20 Right Hand Nut Length: 1-9/16" Long Socket/Wrench Size: Standard 13/16" Size

Here’s a link to some drone video from the waterfront area of beautiful Shore Hills Campground, and views of some of the Olivers there. Huge “Thank You” to Richard Weare for organizing the event.

Window vents……. Interested

Of the 16 sets of bearings/races for the 4 wheels, only the one outer bearing and its race were damaged. There was no excessive play, nor was any bearing torqued too tightly. I used the same procedure on all wheels. The grease is Mobil 1 Synthetic. Mobil 1™ Synthetic Grease, the official automotive grease of NASCAR, is an advanced full synthetic grease formulated with a proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks and a lithium complex soap thickener. The thickener system provides a high dropping point, while additives impart excellent extreme-pressure properties and resistance to water wash, rust and corrosion. The proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks used in Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease gives reliable lubrication over wide temperature ranges -50 C (-58 F) to 246 C (475 F). Outstanding structural stability coupled with high performance synthetic base stocks make Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease an outstanding all-purpose automotive grease.” Excellent Resistance to Rust and Corrosion • Longer life of bearings and chassis lube points when exposed to corrosive environments Outstanding Structural Stability • Provides effective lubrication over extended periods of time Exceptional wear protection under heavy loads • 20 % Improved wear protection 2. • Provides bearing protection while cornering and other conditions where bearings temporarily experience heavy loads. Excellent resistance to water wash • 40% better resistance to water wash out3 from heavy rain storms or exposure to high amounts of water. Improved grease bearing life • 3X improvement in grease bearing life4. (From the Mobil 1 website)

Hull 244, LE II. 2017 Approx 30,000 miles on the trailer. Bearings first repacked at 9,100 miles. Repacked a second time at 22,000 miles. After another ~8,000 miles I decided to inspect and repack them again. The pics below are the outer bearing from the L (streetside) forward wheel. I carry an infra red temperature ‘gun’ and regularly monitor the wheel temps near the hub when on extended trips. There was no indication of that wheel having elevated temps. I also carry spare bearing sets and tools to change them on the road. I changed out all 8 sets of roller bearings and races yesterday and today. This outer bearing and race was the only pair that was damaged. Carry spare bearings.

Good idea, adding to the fresh water tank via the city water inlet by altering that lower right valve. Didn’t occur to me, Duh! Good to hear that changing that check valve may not be difficult. I just have to get ahold of the right wrenches. Thanks, Bob

Thanks for your suggestion, Frank. I’m familiar with the valve configurations.

2017 LE II, Hull 244. I could not add water to the fresh water tank using the streetside fresh water connection. Upon removing the small screen at the inlet of the connector, these bits were removed. The line remained occluded. A one way valve within the brass right angle fitting to which the pex water line tubing is connected had malfunctioned. I disconnected the water line at the brass fitting and attempted to free the occlusion with compressed air, unsuccessfully. Fresh water pex line disconnected The brass section that contains the one way valve. I was able to free the occlusion once another piece of the one way valve assembly was extracted. The additional plastic piece that, once removed, allowed water to flow. Obviously the check valve doesn’t function now but I can use the streetside fresh water tank connection to fill the tank. It’s important now to keep the outside cap firmly plugged to prevent back flow, particularly when using the boondocking port. Previously that port was the only way to get water to the fresh water tank. Within the confines of the basement I could not get wrenches onto the brass fittings to disassemble it. Equally obvious is the need for a new one way valve within this fitting. Next time I happen by Hohenwald maybe they’ll lend a hand.

“Though I'm also mostly recalling it from the elevated highway days” In those days that would have been a terrifying route choice. Today it’s just a bold route choice.

Hi to the couple from Maine, Oliver owners, who greeted me in slowly moving traffic Saturday. BTW, cool Oliver thermos.

Had a bit of a delay coordinating with a friend to use his drill press. With the aid of John’s detailed instructions, here was my installation. First a couple of pics of the receiver, showing how the steel channel sides are not strictly parallel and the top is slightly bent or shallowly “U” shaped. Another pic shows the weld at the rear of the reinforcement steel tube. That weld prevents the Oliver aluminum tongue from sliding forward to directly contact the steel tube within the receiver hitch. If you force the receiver onto the aluminum tongue the forward section of the receiver is raised by the height of the weld. Good luck getting accurate measurements for drilling if that occurs. To measure for drilling I set the receiver onto the tongue in a stable manner then scribed lines onto the aluminum tongue along the bottom and rear edges of the receiver. Measurements to center of the bolt holes were then made and recorded. After a friend drilled the receiver holes with a drill press, I found that the rearward holes lined up well but the forward holes were ~2 mm off on street side and ~1 mm off on curbside. Then it was a matter of enlarging the holes for a proper fit. Once aligned there was priming, final paint coats and installation. Thank you, John Davies for this two year old valuable thread.

Ordered. TYVM. Glad you happened to be hanging out on the forum when I posted.

Already got a reply from John. Whew! That guy is efficient. Thank you, Sir.

Forgot to mention that I have a 2017 LE II, hull #244.

I’m upgrading and have chosen the 2 5/16” ball, as recommended in John Davies very well written post from a couple of years ago. The upgrade to the newer hitch is still offered by Anderson for $100. I received the hitch today. I now need to order the correct 2 5/16” bulldog coupler. John’s instructions are explicit and thorough. I’m certain that I’ll be able to do the installation. I just need to be sure that I have the correct 2 5/16” bulldog coupler. John, can you supply information or a link that directs me to the correct 2 5/16” bulldog coupler? Help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.