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hobo
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Posts posted by hobo
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Not sure why I would ever have the shore power cord AND the generator hooked up at the same time. It's one or the other.
If the shore power is not hooked up then there is no power feedback issue.
Curious though if there is in fact a transfer switch somewhere that I'm not aware of in my 2018 LE II.
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ScubaRX; Any chance you could get a pic of the bottom of that space and post it as you have it configured AND one without the tray in it? Thanks. Hobo
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11 hours ago, DavidS said:
Yes, this gives access to the part of the basement that is furthest from the basement door. The stuff I had stored there was in a milk crate, and it was so far back that I made a retrieval device - a hook on a long dowel rod.
David, Just wondering (have never seen this space), would it be reasonable to expect that once opened up for a new access door, a false bottom could be put into this space which makes it a separate storage compartment. Seems there is a fair amount of height above the floor level to play with here. Again, I don't current have access to it so I can't tell for sure. Thanks again. Hobo
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45 minutes ago, DavidS said:
I installed an Access Door to the basement in my Ollie; it was not an option when we ordered it. I got the door from Jason at Oliver for $99.50 + tax. They charge $175 for one installed, on the build sheets.
I covered the areas to be cut with blue tape, and measured carefully where I wanted to cut. I cut holes in the four corners with a hole saw, and then cut the straight areas with a jig saw with a fine metal cutting blade. This website helped. After cutting, installing the door was easy.
We really like the door. The backend of the basement had rarely used items (i.e. extra hoses, 50A to 30A adaptors) that we now store in the tow vehicle. With the access door, we now store our extra shoes at the back of the basement. We are happy with it.
David, So I understand fully: When you open up the lower portion of the cabinet, does this actually just give you access to the bowels of the basement or is there a floor in the cabinet which allows a separate storage space? Thanks, Hobo
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We ordered the Lagun table that fits between the twin beds but have NEVER used it. In fact, it's never even been in the trailer. At this juncture, for our style of camping, we just won't use it. We are going to sell it (cheap) but I want to know how difficult it would be to remove the bracket and put in the extra door front for storage? Would love to hear from someone who has made this conversion. Thanks
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12 minutes ago, bhncb said:
In addition, there is an outlet in the hanging closet, in the overhead cabinet above refrigerator, and one on each side of the rear nightstand.
Right you are. I missed those. Let me update my list above. Thanks.
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15 hours ago, Susan Huff said:
Wondering if there are sufficient outlets in the Elite II, especially in the galley. I can't seem to determine by looking at interior photos, where 110 outlets are located. Could someone with a newer model tell me where they are installed.
Also, is Oliver willing to add additional outlets and/or reposition them? Please share your recommendations on where outlets should be located.
We have a 2018, twin bed model. (Hull 414) and here's what we have in ours:
(1) above kitchen counter on bottom of cabinet,
(1) below curbside bed,
(1) inside rear overhead cabinet (above tv),
(1) below streetside bed,
(1) below dinette seat,
(1) below closet door,
(0) in bathroom since it's a wet-bath.
(1) outside on curbside,
There was a time when Oliver would add outlets but I doubt if they do it now. I think they just starting making them standard based on what folks were asking for.
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On 5/28/2020 at 3:35 PM, SeaDawg said:
Love the gif. Pass the popcorn.
Tests have been done in Australia on far more efficient ac units than the Dometic units available to the US. and, we've all seen Overland's experiment. Will it run ac? Sure. How long....
However, I'm really glad Oliver is getting into lithium. Maybe then, they'll offer a dc danfoss compressor refrigerator . 😄
Sherry
I was in Hohenwald a couple of days ago and they said the lithium batteries would run the AC for about 5 hours. Not sure what the upcharge is for lithium but if it won't get me through a single night, then why bother?
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On 6/5/2020 at 9:57 AM, Overland said:
Not for the MURS frequencies. Our default is the blue dot channel and we've never had a need to switch to another. For the rest, yes, if you need to use them.
It's nice to know that we have the ham frequencies available in case of emergency (no license required for emergency use), and we keep a cheat sheet on our phones to remind us how to use them if we ever need to.
We've also found it handy to be able to monitor park ranger frequencies.
What's the output (watts) on the MURS frequencies?
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11 hours ago, Overland said:
The new Icom V86 is $125 at gigaparts.com. MilSpec construction, IP64, etc. It's not going to be in the easy to use category since it's a ham radio, but you won't beat the quality or range with any other handheld.
I had a problem with the Motorola radios we initially bought, since it took a few seconds after pressing the key for them to actually start transmitting. I sent them back because of that and ended up with a pair of Icoms and they've been great.
License required??
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On 4/6/2020 at 2:13 PM, John E Davies said:
I am bumping this old thread, can anyone contribute any new information? As a recent buyer, within the last year, did you have to sign or agree to any kind of liability release from the Sales Dept before you were given the contact info for a showing?
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA
At best, the liability release "might" help Oliver Trailer from legal action if a potential customer referred to you gets hurt while viewing a privately owned trailer; but it won't do anything for the party actually showing the trailer. Anything provided by Oliver to a potential customer is ultimately designed to protect Oliver, not you irregardless of the language in the liability release. It's your trailer, your property and therefore you're at the pointy end of the spear if someone wants to claim damages. I seriously doubt if any attorney retained by Oliver Trailers is going to spend anytime trying to defend you in court. As mentioned before, your liability insurance is all you can depend on.
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On 3/8/2020 at 11:51 PM, John E Davies said:
The traps may burp because the grey tank is inadequately vented. It vents through the bathroom, if you have the travel valve closed, it cannot vent except through the kitchen trap. If you tow up a steep mountain it will belch stinky gasses into the cabin. You can add deodorant to the tanks, that makes it smell vaguely like lemons instead of rotting food particles.
The grey tank needs a second vent to fix this. Maybe while you are stringing pipes you can do that too.;)
John Davies
Spokane WA
That's what I was thinking too. I've mistakenly not shifted the valve in the bath on at least one occasion and have run close to having allowed the grey water tank to get too full. In both cases, worst that would happen is a little grey water comes into the bathroom floor. Not the level of a "problem" that you would have if black water comes into the living space. Also as pointed out earlier, plain old grey water can be strategically drained off without harm or offense in many situations. When you introduce urine to the mix, you've lost that option. It's easier for me to just empty the urine container which is not a big deal anyway.
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Again??! They had a recall about a year ago for another safety issue.
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We in fact have cancelled a month long trip due to our concerns. The trip was to originate in TN for a factory service and then from there, we were going to head west to spend time in NM and AZ. Then we were going to attend the rally in AL on the return trip back to VA. Our main intent was to visit some friends of ours in the Phoenix area that have two youngsters. Well, as a courtesy to them, and because we are finding more and more facilities, services and parks are shutting down, we are extremely uncomfortable being so far away from home under those circumstances. We'll do it later when we don't have to worry about anything more complex than how many bottles and what kind of wine to take along.
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John,
Related/unrelated; The lids to your jerry cans look interesting. My guess is they are much easier to use than the standard screw on lids as you wouldn't have replaced them otherwise. Can you enlighten me on those items? Thanks
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On 2/29/2020 at 8:42 AM, Trainman said:
Probably listed under the manufacture of the jack and it's model number, trailer manufactures change components all the time. I also see no one has given a good reason for needing these.
trainman
I might want them to protect the concrete in my storage building where I park Hobo. I'm thinking of putting down a nice finish on the concrete for ease of cleaning and don't want the metal pads damaging it.
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I don't see the Oliver listed on the ordering website. Which model did you purchase ? I assume you used three?
Finally, best source to procure? Thanks
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We use these for stabilizing the front corners of the trailer once level. These are very good too for jacking up the side of the trailer for tire/wheel removal repair. Beauty of these as they are both an adjustable jack stand AND a hydraulic jack. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJJZ5NI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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12 hours ago, Nan said:
RV Tech said the heater did not have enough wires going to it to ever work. Also since the power had been on the control board constantly, he said it was burned up. He ordered another board, but it is back ordered and it will be at least 2 weeks before it comes in. And there is an add-on fuse behind the panel in the breaker box that is above the nite stand..so, there you go..it definitely was not a thermostat problem, but a wiring problem. This did not happen at the Oliver factory because the AC and heater were replaced by the previous owner.
I would look for another tech. If it was running before, his statement about "not enough wires running to ever work" is obviously bogus. I'd start looking for a more reputable repair shop.
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While on this subject, I have a hard time getting my cover to screw on evenly and smoothly. Seems like it is being-cross threaded at times. Was wondering if a lubricant of some nature might make this easier. Any suggestions?
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On 2/16/2020 at 7:54 PM, SeaDawg said:
I think Good Sam's is underwritten by several companies, depending on your state and policy type.
Could be. I could only see it from the Perspective of a Virginia customer.
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I believe Good Sam Insurance is actually underwritten by Progressive.
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At the rally last year (or perhaps the year before) I noted a couple of folks who had put a small wire tether on their access port covers. At least one person advised me that they actually used the safety wires for light fixtures as their source of their tethers. They also advised that they had a few of them and would send me one if I sent them a note after the rally. Well of course, I forgot who this person was so I am seeking to find that person or otherwise, have anyone on the forum advise the best way to accomplish the task at hand.
Thanks, Hobo
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No, just a single portable tank will suffice for both. They're going to end up going down the same hole in the ground anyway.
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30 AMP ConveniencevConnection
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks for that. Good to know even if I don't envision ever having both connected at once. I guess it's the having a wife who worked for Dominion Energy for 40+ years in me that always makes me think of the guys up on the poles trying to restore power when they get the hell shocked out of them because homeowners have hooked up their generators to power their homes but didn't install a transfer switch which prevents that power from being back fed into the grid. It also took me a while to get comfortable with keeping the truck hooked up to the trailer while feeding the trailer with shore power. I don't usually do that but it has happened on an occasion. I was afraid the AC power would go to my truck via the 7 pin cable and fry my electrical system. It won't happen (in theory) but I always feel better when there are zero paths of conduction between the two. Just me I guess. Thanks again though for the info.