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Geronimo John

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Posts posted by Geronimo John

  1. I like the small solar panel over the winter charging approach for locations without house power. However it requires attention and care during the winter.

     

    My Elite II is in a shed, covered, out of the sun, wind, rain and snow.  As house power is available, I have options that would not apply to many Oliver owners.

     

    I have heard that some owners will leave their trailer connected to house  power, and will use the on-board charger to maintain their batteries over the winter.  My preference is to not do so as I have some concern with having a large charger on line in an unoccupied out of sight situation.  As such, I purchased a small 1.5 amp Tractor Supply battery maintainer.  I have mounted this unit on a vertical wall of the shed directly above and adjacent to the battery compartment.  I then extended the maintainer cables so that they would go up to the rafters, across the access isle by the battery box, and then down to the battery box.

     

    For safety, I turn off ALL Oliver systems (Both 120V and 12V) and also trip all breakers.  (Note:  I do this so that I can power up systems one at a time in the Spring, and I know that regardless of what happens over the winter, I have no power in the trailer that could cause concerns.  Over kill, maybe, but an extra layer of safety costs nothing and may prevent an issue.  For example, a mouse having lunch with one of the larger electrical wires certainly could cause an issue or two).

     

    With the batteries in a cold state (I.E. not on a charger for at least 8 hours), I adjust the battery water in all cells to full.  I then disconnect the positive terminal of the Oliver battery set, and connect the battery maintainer.  It will generally give a yellow light indicating that it is working, but the batteries are not at FULL charge.  After a few days, I have a friend verify that the maintainer has gone to "Green Light" (all is well).   I rest well until mid-May when Ollie and I restart systems, grease bearings and zerks, fill tanks and supplies, and roll another 12,000 miles chasing the wind.

     

    The unit I recommend is the Tractor Supply heavier duty model:  Schumacher 1.5 Amp, fully automatic battery maintainer.  It costs $24.95 at Tractor Supply, and occasionally at Blaine's Tractor Supply for $19.95.  I know that there are a lot of these units on the market.  This one is my preference as it is self protected, stoutly built, and has been proven by many years of service.

     

    EDIT NOTE:  For some reason I can't delete the below picture.  This is the charger version.  The unit I purchase is a Maintainer/Charger.  Be sure to get the Maintainer one.

  2. I'm not so sure that "ants love termites".  What I do know is that after a termite colony is eliminated, that ants LOVE to take over the tunnels that termites make in your wood.  It not only saves them a huge amount of effort in making their colony, but it also provides them protection as well.  Since termites tend to reside where there is a water source, the ants have almost all of the elements they need to thrive.  The last is food, and that's easy to find where we humans live.

     

    I do not recommend spraying for pests inside a trailer.  Especially an Oliver as it is a very well sealed environment (Four season reason).  Hence we are encouraged to open windows and/or use our MaxFan.  What I do recommend is trapping (Mice, rats etc.) and baiting (Ants, termites, etc.).  Trapping (Sticky boards, spring traps, or enclosed traps) mice and rats "captures" the body thereby preventing a poisoned and dying critter from hiding in an impossible location and stinking up our trailer.  Better to know where he died (in the trap) and removing him with the trap verses looking for hours for the source of the stink.

     

    For ants, I recommend Tarro.  Ants take it back to their nest and in short order it dies too.   I have found that some ants will ignore Tarro.  In such cases, try another brand.  But the best overall inside use first choice is always Tarro.

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  3. I purchased for my work four 2018 sprinter vans.  Love them.  But loaded with the turbo diesel they are certainly not "Over Powered".

     

    Be aware that starting with model year 2019, MB has shifted production from Germany to Argentina.  My gut says that with any model year change, especially one involving a change of factory, and ESPECIALLY with a change of country..... delay a year or two to allow the bugs to be worked out.

     

    The sage advice of going with what is proven is also a key consideration.... especially at $150K.  My three recommendations in no particular order would be:

     

    Used Toyota Land Cruiser (Big wink to John D.)

     

    Used Ford/Ram 250/2500 with diesel

     

    Used Nissan Titan with Cummings Diesel

     

    For those that would like a less expensive option, the Toyota Sequoia Gen II with the 5.7L would be my choice.  You can get into a very nice used one for about $15K.

     

    Geronimo John

    • Thanks 2
  4. Thanks John D.

     

    I agree.  I looked into the turbo/super charger mods and due to cost fell as you do that it is not worth the effort.

     

    Basically prior to this summer, I updated all the maintenance items and replaced the rear bearings; so I have quite a bit of time and costs into it.  Body is still real good and interior is as well.  My 2018 Summer trip is completed with 14,000 miles on the TV and 8,000 on Ollie all in 13 weeks double crossing the USA chasing paragliding sites and competitions.  Overall the Sequoia 4.7L managed and ran perfectly with zero problems.

     

    At this point on trade, it is only going to fetch $2 or so.  Outright sale a bit more I suspect.

     

    My strategy is to run it another year (Summer 2019), or until I lose any major component.

     

    Thanks again for all the inputs you have been spot on every time.

     

    Geronimo John

  5. I am on a very weak internet link, so my apologies if this response gets garbled.

     

    I purchased the Telesteps 1600E OSHA Compliant 16 ft Reach Telescoping Extension Ladder via Amazon.com Services, Inc. for $172.31.

     

    It is a 12 foot ladder, advertised as a 16 foot reach.

     

    I have used it extensively during the past month on a construction site.  I am about 240 pounds and have made at least 300 trips up it.  It is well made and fits EASILY in my Oliver Elite II closet at the front door.  I would buy this ladder again and recommend it for use on our OTT's.

     

    Geronimo John

     

     

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  6. Popcorn Billy and Friends:

     

    A good starting point is to verify that the model of truck/SUV you are considering is over rated for the total travel weight you want to pull.  Many recommendations on this subject is to use Travel Life tables at:

     

    http://www.trailerlife.com/trailer-towing-guides/

     

    I am at the end of an 8,000 mile trip pulling an Oliver Elite II.  My Ollie dry weight is 4600 pounds; and wet I am about 5500 pounds.  My Toyota Sequoia, 2005 with a 4.7 L engine is  rated for 6,000 pounds.  After about 7,000 miles I have found that:

     

    On the flat land and rolling hills, it has done wonderful.

     

    In the mountains, as I was advised by several members, the 4.7 L is too small.

     

    So my responses to your question about a vehicle doing long trips pulling a 5,000 pound trailer with a 5,000 pound rated vehicle would be..... Maybe.  If no mountains are involved, then sure  but be careful and don't hurry.  If mountains are involved, I would recommend getting a vehicle with more tow capability.  It is not only about power.  It is also about stopping and handling.

     

    I hope this was helpful. Good luck, and welcome to the best forum in the Travel Trailer Industry!

     

    Geronimo John

     

     

  7. John Davies and All:

     

    We are approaching the half way point of my initial Ollie voyage, just hitting the 5,000 mile mark.

     

    Just wanted to comment that you were right in stating that I would wish I had the 5.7 Toyota Sequoia motor vice my 4.7 (Unfortunately #1). I do very well in the flats running at the elevated western states posted speed limits. My chunk is the "High Speed" one (Unfortunately #2) and my Sequoia really likes to be run best fast to get the RPM's into the torque band. But when I hit the hills, the torque and HP deficit becomes an issue. Maybe changing the rear end to the towing one would help, but I think an upgrade to a 5.7 version would be a better approach.

     

    Any thoughts?

     

    Geronimo

  8. Bill: Thanks for the template!

     

    SHEETS: I have read many reviews of the "Cot Sheets" being sold on Amazon and frankly the quality of the sheets sold seems to be pretty poor. Does anyone have a good sheet set recommendation in addition to the AB Lifestyles ones listed above?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Geronimo John

  9. Moderator, this is a tad off topic, but related.  Please move it as you deem appropriate.

     

    Thanks

     

    +++++++++++++++++++++

     

    John and Fellow Owners:

     

    Now that I in the TPMS group, I was wondering about current thinking concerning a rapid tire pressure loss event.  What are your thoughts about this video?

     

    http://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-tire-blowout-tip/

     

    http://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-tire-blowout-tip/

     

    Geronimo John

  10. I have owned a Honda EU 2000i generator for years and would run them 14 hours a day all week while on our Lake Powell House Boat two or three weeks a year.  In over ten years it has never failed once.  For my Ollie (May 2018) I will be getting their new EU2200i.  It is 1" longer than the previous and 10% more power.  Sadly it cost almost double the cost of the competition.  But to me, having an absolutely reliable generator is essential.  And having the extra 200 watts gives us options and will not be stressing the generator should we need to do long run A/C use as well.

  11. I can foresee that not having a pick-up truck bed will eventually result in a storage space crunch. So to delay that time, I am trying to be very efficient in what and how much stuff I will load Ollie with.  I know that I must have a grease gun and the special red grease that the EZ flex requires.  Your very helpful post congers up a couple of thoughts:

     

    A.  Your  post said:  "The first time I did it, it took a full 14 oz tube, plus a little more." is important.  For the above reasons my preference is to use a small grease gun with the 3 OZ Red Grease tubes.  If I have to load up 5 tubes or more of it for the first time, that's probably not real good.  So, I have to ask the question:  Why would OTT not do the initial grease load up on the EZ Flex while the trailer is at the factory?

     

    B.  After your initial "cavity fill" of grease, how much grease do you now use per service?  (Reason is to get a feeling if I can still use my smaller grease gun  after my initial cavity fill.)

     

    Thank you for your post.  You are the first I have seen to indicate how much grease we will actually need.  Since my initial Ollie voyage will be at least 8,000 trailer miles, grease is on my mind.

     

    Geronimo John

     

     

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