Geronimo John

Certainly. At the below web site just scroll down to the 9/16" Hex Bolt for the size. They fit perfectly. Concerning the HDG: It has to be removed in the area of the Capture Washer only and about an inch further around the hex head capture washer. This extra space is to eliminate any HDG migration to the weld area. Be sure to clean and re coat the weld as indicated above. This will likely need to be re coated every 2 or 3 years as the zink in the Cold Galvanize Spray Paint is sacrificial. Concerning the worry about the tang rusting enough to fail: I accept that risk as very minor compared to the damage that would be caused by having this critical bolt walking out as has happened at least four times that I was made aware of on our forum. GJ

Yes sort of, but from a different angle than you may be thinking. To instruement Ollie for such a test would be a challenge. A far simpler "seat of the pants" approach to compare Ollie to Brand X would be to monitor the A/C or heat power consumption over time at a set temperture. To normalize the result between trailers would be to divide the power consumed/cubic feet of interior. This would not meet any "Scientific" standard, but sure would be helpful.... especially if the tests were done in a full sun/shade and side by side with other trailers. GJ

Over the past 3+ years I have been researching solutions to the "walk out" of the Ez-Flex Center Bolt due to failure of the "fixing" splines on the bolthead site. This issue has occurred to at least three owners that I am aware of. But first before spilling the beans on what I believe to be a permanent fix, have two administrative tasks: First, I want to thank James Ussery and Mike who have been my sounding board for at least half a dozen half baked solution possibilities. Each of those solutions were either not robust enough or would greatly impact "side of the road" repairs. Secondly, for legal reasons, the below solution is not currently endorsed by OTT or Dexter. Ultimately I stumbled on to a product called a "Hex Head Capture Washer". They are used by off road suspension modification shops to keep bolts from turning. The cost of the washers was $1.31. I have installed two of them (one on each Center Bolt) and am totally confortable with this solution. Geronimo John DEXTER Ez-Flex Center Bolt “Walking Out” Fix.docx

I keep my Ollie in a dark barn. She gets used three or four months a year tops. When stored, about 50% of the weight is on the jacks. When my 5 year "Expiration Date" comes to pass, I will do a careful inspection of all five tires. If they have cracking or any signs of anormal wear, I'll get new tires. If not, I'll run them for another year. That said, if the tread wear gets to 2/3 used, they are replaced regardless of my inspections efforts. But then I will eat a can of beans that has an expired Best if Used date too. Our Michelin Tires are exceptionally long life tires. Way beyond 5 years if properly maintained. Just my two cents. GJ

A good option for sure! Do consider that most generators do lose capacity due to the energy content decrease between gas and propane. Something to run to ground so that you "know before you go" that path.

I would not have a problem with this for water storage. But for gasoline, when I saw the below, all I could think of is some jerk with an axe to grind. Giving a perfect opportunity to torch your beautiful trailer. Twist the cap, light it off and go.

Interesting for sure. From your sketch, it looks as if having a OTT tongue storage box could provide some installation challenges though.

Any wet tank will corrode. Just a matter of time and the rate. My industrial water treatment background taught me that the best way to prevent corrosion in a tank that was not is use is to drain and air dry it. Hence, at the end of the season, with a cold hot water tank, I close off the bypass valve, relieve the pressure at the Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve, remove the anode to drain the tank, and flush the tank with my home made flushing wand. I do not re-install the anode to let the tank air dry. No water, no corrosion, no anode oxidizing away for no purpose. Next season I briefly flush the hot water tank, reinstall the anode, open the bypass valve to fill the tank (With the Pressure/Temperature Relief valve open, and flush out all air. Then reset the valves and move on to having fun.

For grins have you talked to the EZ-Start gentleman that has installed a bunch of them at the Rally's? Maybe he has already fried a Houghton and has since figured out the for sure THE ONE way to meet your goal of not "Frying your new unit". My approach comes from being a Mechanical Engineer. For electrical matters my wife June is about 50 years ahead of me and my slide rule. 🙂

An update from Jason. Apparently in 2016, OTT was instructed by the rim mfg to increase the torque from 90 to 120 ft-lbs. He is going to check back with the MFG on this. More to follow....... GJ

This is not the first time our foot prints have been on their door step. Recall the 80 PSI tire pressure? I think sending them the Michelin recommended Tire Pressure Guide for our trailers did the trick. This time they now have their MFG recommendation that runs counter to their Owner's Rep I sent it to Jason moments after I posted it here. I also asked him to bump it up to Engineering and QC. GJ

This is not the first time our foot prints have been on their door step. Recall the 80 PSI tire pressure? I think sending them the Michelin recommended Tire Pressure Guide for our trailers did the trick. This time they now have their MFG recommendation that runs counter to their Owner's Rep I sent it to Jason moments after I posted it here. I also asked him to bump it up to Engineering and QC. GJ

Got a response back from SenDel. It is below. Personally, I'm going to go with 90 ft-lb of torque. Looks like JD was spot on! GJ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From: Vanessa Allar <vanessa@recstuff.com> Sent: Friday, April 29, 2022 9:02 AM To: John P. Russell, Jr. <jprredhorse@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Offline Message from John Russell: I am asking on behalf of several Oliver Tr We recommend between 90-110 ft-lb torque when mounting these wheels, you are right, 120 is a little too high. You gave me a good laugh with that message, thank you. I hope you have an excellent weekend! Vanessa Allar Customer Service Team Member www.RecStuff.com (321) 872-8473

I pretty much have most of the same tools. In addition I carry an inch-pound and a foot-pound torque wrenches, a small electrical pump, a 20 volt DeWalt air compressor, impact and drill. Also electrical supplies, and a set of wheel bearing seals and two of my old Dexter bearings in case my Timken's die. I use my F-150 jack when not using the three onboard jacks, and carry a milk crate of 2 X 6 lumber for shims and under jack support. PS: Jumper cables, tow strap, head lamp, TeleSteps ladder, Fortiflex buckets, and work gloves. If I can't fix it, and there is no cell, I have a Garmin InReach tracker that allows satellite transmission of messages to anyone I want anywhere in the world.

Moderator: It appears that we have wandered afar from the topic. I don't mind it tooooo much as it was the original poster that morphed us over into the lug nut torque discussion. 🙂 Any chance we could be moved over to a new post line? Mahalo, GJ

I have sent Dexter, E-trailer and SenDel RFI's for all of us. E-trailer's first response was to quote the OTT Owner's Manual = 120 ft-lbs. I pushed back for THEIR opinion. We'll see Here is the Sendel Web Site: https://recstuff.com/trailer-wheels?_bc_fsnf=1&Style=S20&Color%5B%5D=Silver+Aluminum&Color%5B%5D=Silver+Machined+Aluminum&Size=16%2 Here is the SenDel rim some of us are using: The SenDel product I believe we have is their S20 66655T. S20 = Style of the rim 6 = 16” diameter 6 = 6” wide 6 = Number of lug bolts 55 = 5.5” bolt pattern T = Aluminum They are listed on their web site for $189

JD: I have looked for 90 minutes for the Dexter torques for a 6 each 1/2" lug, 5.5" spacing with Bulge Acorn nuts on an aluminum rim. By chance can you share your source info? Thanks.

Aaron: I will be coming south from Alaska 3rd week in August. Then near Moore, Idaho at the KMFP for about ten days. Then heading to SLC after that. If any of that is close to you, feel free to PM me. Geronimo John

Wow David Thanks! I have been copying them to a word document, then grabbing a corner to shrink it, and then cutting and pasting it back into the forum! I like your way better! GJ

JD: I am not indicating that they currently are using these torques. Just that in 2018 when my Ollie was hatched they were. NEW OWNERS: Do any of our "New" owners have a picture of the torque sheet they used on your 2021 or 2022 model Oliver's? GJ

Sounds like a PITA to me. I would consider a splitter and just run one leg out to the back. Easy.

This is a picture from the production line when mine was hatched. Looks like 43 is the number for four each Jack Mount Bolts.

JD: Good suggestion. Just wondering if crossing the two zip ties to form a pair of "X's" over the blanks vs. two parallel ties would make is more secure? Or am I missing something. Thanks GJ

Wow. That is awesome craftsmanship. I agree with your thoughts on the Pedigree of the AL, and it's availability. I can only imagine what the counter guy would say by my asking for several pieces of large aluminum tubing all about a foot or less long. I suspect I would be wearing his boot as I flew through the doors. Unlike JD and his Land Cruiser, I think I'll look closer at welding an extension on the 2" receiver to pull back the Anderson. Suspect it would only require about 3". On my F-150 SuperCrew that probably would work pretty well. I very much appreciate your taking the time and effort to showcase the solution you have on your trailer. Mahalo, Geronimo John

Wow, thank you all for the ideas and suggestions! Each of you have enlightened me with additional ideas, solutions or improvements. Mahalo all! GJ