Geronimo John

All above are valid. I'm thinking: Is your Thankgiving campsite going to be much colder than your home site? If much colder Winterize. If not, then considering you are just a mile from your treasure. I recommend Option #1. But bring camping the items you need to winterize if things get real cold. In the meantime, if weather goes to crud in a hurry, then fire off the furnace and relook at the question then. GJ

I'm thinking JB Weld it in the hole and pray I get to 50,000 miles and upgrade to 5200's. (That's what I did). 🙂

Lord please bring peace to the our fallen Service Members, and may they be proud of their family that they left behind. GJ 2004 CENTCOM Tiger Team at Qutar before deploying mostly by convoy to multiple locations in Iraq.

May I assume that the term Older Hulls means older than your 2010 Hull? (As in Hulls 1 - 44)

You guys totally lost me on the H and L pins. Suspect some others are not following that as well. So more AI homework that explains what they do, and how it applies to both the 30 and 50 amp versions: AI Overview No, both units actually share this identical hardware feature. The factory-installed wire loop bridge between the remote L and H pins is present on both the older Victron Orion-Tr Smart 30A and the newer Victron Orion XS 50A models. How It Works on Both Versions: The Factory Setup: Both chargers ship with a small wire bridge (jumper loop) pre-installed into the green remote terminal block connecting the L (Low) and H (High) pins. This loop tricks the charger into remaining in a constant "Remote On" state so it works right out of the box using just its internal engine-shutdown detection settings. Disabling / Customizing: If you want to tie the charger to a physical toggle switch, an ignition-live wire, or a Battery Management System (BMS), you must pull that factory bridge out on either unit to utilize the individual pins. The Real Key Differences: While they share the same style of remote bridge, the Orion XS 50A is a complete, ground-up redesign compared to the older Orion-Tr Smart 30A Efficiency: The 50A model runs at an impressive 98.5% efficiency (meaning it stays incredibly cool and no longer features massive cooling fins), whereas the older 30A model runs at 87% efficiency and gets famously hot to the touch. Connectivity: The 50A unit includes a dedicated VE.Direct port to easily talk to GX devices (like a Cerbo GX), whereas the 30A unit relies purely on Bluetooth for communication. Adjustability: The 50A version allows you to precisely dial down the charging current via the app (from 1A up to 50A to protect weaker alternators, while the older 30A version simply outputs its fixed max capacity when active.

In a nut shell: 1. "Keeps it in place especially for rough surfaces, not level areas or hard braking:" Ok so 99% of owners are out of spec in our normal use of our trailers. 2. So when it breaks, we can expect to see "Movement while Traveling": OK, so basically it is going to be moving about while traveling. And per OTT that's evidently not a life safety hazard. 3. An traveling on such roads will cause "Damage" if it broken: Damage is bad. A broken water line while traveling is not that big of a deal unless you left the pump on. So don't do that. But a broken gas line is not acceptable to the vast majority of breathing owners. If that's their end position on this subject, I feel it is a bit short sighted from a legal, ethical, and customer service perspective. PS: I really like the strapping with marine board and/or with romex. GJ

OTT does react to significant issues, not with a mass mailing/email but rather targeted ones. What may appear to be a slow response to an issue I suspect is caused by their: A. Looking into the validity of the concern B. Assessing just how hazardous the concern could be. C. Then doing the research of the specific owners with that specific situtation. I too have not gotten such a notice. So I guess we are amoung large number of OTT owners that are the most lucky. GJ

Wow, I did not know about the Door Closed condition! I like it. Also good to know when you are sitting there in the front seat looking at the numbers and not seeing any current and wondering WHY??????? The lugs inside the housing of the SB175 can also support smaller cables.... such as our #4 AWG wires. The contact point of all the various lug sizes listed is the same. I like having oversize contact points so went with the larger SB175's contacts with the smaller #4 lugs. Besides the SB175 fits my hands better! GJ

The further back something is from the tongue, the rougher the ride is back there. An unknowing driver's rear utilities on a washboard road can easily see 2 to 5 G's of verticle acceleration back there. Which makes JD's statement that the wrong material used is on point. I add to that that it was not properly engineered. Hence care is needed in engineering a solution. Hence the need for OTT's involvement. The trailer axles and springs can help or hurt this issue. Stiffer suspensions genarally makes payload shocks worse. The exception is when the frame and axle slam together from having too soft a suspension. Compliant suspensons help things a bit. Having a heater hard mounted generally hurts. Allowing it the ability to float a litte ... is good.... so long as all the attachments (such as controls, water and gas lines) are engineered to accomodate such movement as well. Think about a wash board with bumps every 6" and 5 miles long. That's generation over 10,000 fatique cycles every time you pass on it. This is why so many people have trailer issues going to Alaska.... Bottom line is that the way your Truma's were secured was not up to the job. And that's a real problem. How big a one is TBD. How many trailers have this very same issue and don't have a clue about? I for one have never checked my Suburban hot water heater's attachment. Dittofor the 3,000 watt Renogy, the furnace, and everything else hidden below decks. Can I move the vertically? If so, how much? What's attached to that item and does it have the ability to flex enough not to become damaged. When doing so, I will pay a LOT of attention to anything with a gas connection first. Hence my "Safety John" approach to this topic. GJ

Sometimes "air sucks"....... GJ

FloraFauna, Ollie-Haus, and Steve: PLEASE today take the time to send OTT a safety ticket on this topic. I have alerted Jason E off line. But the system should be documented with your inputs and how you chose to fix your discovery. My second worst fear is that other owners who do not read this forum will not know about this hazard. To them, the only way they may become aware is if an OTT Tiger Safety Team gets the word out. Your personal input is needed for that. My WORST case fear is that a Truma trailer with this banding gets a cracked gas line and over time leaks enough gas for the interior to reach into the explosive range of concentration. There are several possible ignition sources (I.E. some switches, Dometic three-way, or the gas heater) that could start a rapid disassembly event... with them inside. Please share your experience with OTT via a ticket. Thanks GJ

Totally agree. By the good will of OTT we have this forum. And with the goodness of heart of so many OTT Owners willing to take the time to share their expertise and to guide and help others we are blessed. We all at some point were newer and less savey about the technical side of trailers. If you are stumped, just "Roger Up" and reach out to this forum. Just beware of the rabbit holes! 🙂 LOL GJ

For sure. But then if we had not disconnect that direct link between our Litho's (when we installed them) at best we would have blown its fuse in the TV. Or worse. But a good reminder to disconnect that wire as GalwayGal (I think) mentioned this long ago. Always good to keep Top of Mind the requirement to disconnect the TV charge wire (Usually AWG 12 or smaller) from the TV OEM line. Originally, the OEM "Charging Wire" to the 7-Pin Connector was to keep the trailer emergency brake battery "somewhat" charged. Back then they were TV LA to Trailer LA batteries. The two batteries would equalize while driving. With a brakeaway, a ten year totally neglected near dead trailer battery likely would have had enough charge in it to sent 6 or 12 amps (Single axle/Double axle) for the ten seconds or so to lock up the trailer wheels and get the trailer stopped or at least slowed down. For most modern RV's, the onboard batteries provide the power for a breakaway event. And for those trailer with LA, the wire still is a good feature. Hence it is still provided by the TV OEM's. But as soon as Litho's in the trailer are involved that line needs to be disabled from the Litho's. For reuse in this creative approach, your cautions are very much on target!

I am not a Truma guy, but PLEASE submit a ticket to OTT on this. In my eyes this is a clear safety issue as unrestrained movement of this machine could impace one of the gas lines down there and cause a BOOM with your family personally involved. GJ

You are sounding more and more like a potential canidate for the OTT Rabbit Hole Society! 🙂 I love it.... +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ For sure when mine dies. No need to rush into this on my end. However, I'll be monitoring your wonderful results to make sure that your cables and the 50 amper holds up with the high voltage drop issue still out there. Bottom line I'm thrilled with the efforts for all of us. You and Geoff are "Pathfinders" on this topic, and others, for sure! GJ

This past summer, my iPhone XR died while in northern Idaho. Without it, my 2019 F-150 navagation was useless. I pulled out my RV 780 which fortunately I had updated during the summer of 2025. It work wondefully. Hopefully Garmin will continue to allow updates and support battery upgrades. GJ

Spot on. At the time running my #4 cables was costly in time and materials. The 100' length of cable for a 70 amp unit would be super heavy and off the charts expensive. I'll be staying with my 30 amp and cables at least until it dies. Then relook at the actual performance of the 50 amp unit with the same cables. So GO JD to figure it out for me. LOL In the mean time I will be moving my negative wire over to the fender stud, adding my twin spare set of refer fans under my Orion, and resetting the Victron settings per the "Rabbit Hole" attachment. For any ownere with or considering DC to DC, I think this thread has documented some really sage info to make the process easier and more effective. GJ

JD: That's one way to get there. I did not connect mine, but am rethinking it. Let's consider putting to better use the truck OEM charge battery cable that we all disconnected in the past for the Litho's. Just enable it to pass back thru the existing 7-wire connection and redirect it to the Orion. That line is hot only when you need it for this purpose. GJ

Dean: Good response above. Glad you are going with the 50 A version. Although I stated in several places in my post about the equipment I have for DC/DC charging another reminder to owners to double check numbers and settings for THEIR gear. You chart is a huge eye opener about voltage drop. All of the below is based upon a 100' out and back distance. Looking at the numbers for the older 30 amp vs. the newer 50 amp is great. But the calculation understates the problem of using too small cables: With use of oversized cables in an ideal world, both units could produce their rated outputs. But in the real world we need to remember there are losses that will be incurred. With oversized cables and Orion individual efficiency of operation: At the TV batteries the 50 amp version input will likely pull just a bit more amps due to its very high efficiency. But the 30 amp version with it's much lower efficiency will pull a lot more amps at the TV battery. With oversized cables, I'm guessing in the real world, at the TV battery the 50 amp would be pulling about 53 amps. The 30 amp unit would pull 38 amps. To more accurately calculate the wire size one would need to use the estimated 54 amps or 40 amps for the two calculations. When we add in the degrading factor of the 100' actual resistance losses, the Orion units output will be decreases and the input from the TV will be increased. So what practicle conclusions can we derive from this? Here are a few that my pea brain is pondering: Your great chart is overly kind. Assuming 100' of cable, very high grade copper wire, and excellent terminations: The wire size for the 30 Amp output Orion should be 2 AWG (minimum) and 1/0 preferred. For the 50 Amp output Orion it should be 1/0 (Minimum) and 2/0 preferred. That for the negative cable, one should always use an out and back cable design vs using the truck and trailer frames as conductors. That using #4 AWG cabling with a 50 amp Orion is not going to get anywhere close to the rated 50 amp amperage to the TV...... unless the cables are also upgraded. In my case of my three year installed 30 Amp Orion, 100' of very high grade copper cable #4 cables, with the unit mounted under the fore port seat; I must remove the cover and cushions AND add supplemental fans under the Orion. And then I'll likely see the unit stay on, but still only produce a bit over 20 amps contineous. And that is fine now that I understand why I'm not going to get close to 30 amps. In summary, the reality of phisics that you, Geoff, and JD have made clear is just what it is. And I thank each of you for taking the time to help me understand why. GJ

One followup thought about your product choice for pure dehumidificaiton: Typically, our OE2 is stored 7 to 8 months off season (November to June) in a dark barn on top of an OK mountain. I have used Arm and Hammer for one year and DampRid for 8 years. DampRid from my use has provn far superior for us. I noted your picture and for grins checked what AI thinks. GJ

I have read the above thread several times now. I too very much appreciate Geoff’s and JD’s discussions and comments. They are clear and well written. But as a Mechanical Engineer and wrench turner... frankly I don't have the electrical background to really understand the specific “gizmology” of these systems. Hence started digging a huge rabbit hole. With significant AI hand holding, I cut and pasted 3 tons of info into the attachmed 8 page document. Do be aware of stepping off with me into the hole. If you like short answers, suggest hitting the delete button. But for those of us having problems with their DC to DC system, or wanting to better understand it, or are contemplating installing one: I recommend reading this document to add to your baseline of knowledge. I hope that the attachment brings some understanding of the complex relationships and equipment that makes these not so simple DC/DC charging system so valueble to us "Long Ranger" OTT owners. SO, with a strong beverage of choice in hand, I encourage the technicals and Rabit Hole Society Members to provide correcting inputs. At some point I will update the attachment and repost…… Mahalo GJ PS: Just a reminder that although I have cross checked many of the AI inputs, there may be differences in your TV and/or Victron Orion charging systems. And of course….. AI may just be wrong and I have parked my Ollie over yonder with Alice in Wonderland. 🙂 FORD BMS AND VICTRON ORION DC to DC.docx

Way back there in June after 40 nights you did not report any condensation issues. Now you have issues. What chanaged? The weather most likely... i.e. cooler temperatures. Likely you do not have adequate air changes in your unit AND are seeing lower temperatures especially in the cabinets and other non-heated areas. Combined you will have condnsation. It IS necessary to open up your MaxFan just a bit and one of your windows a bit to allow moisture to exit. When cooking inside, using a higher setting on the max fan and a wider window opening are required as well. Give this a try and see how it works for you. Good luck. GJ PS: I would wager that 90% of us have had condensation issues at some point, and learned how to manage air changes as much as we must monitor our SOC's.

Very likely as you have the 50 amp version. Those of us with the 30 amp.... another story. These units have a relatively low efficiency and as such could warm the entire trailer in some conditions. Mine shuts down after an hour or so if I don't open up the lid to let the heat out. GJ

Cotter Pins and Washers would be a lot less expensive. GJ

Sound recommendation for sure that also applies to hot water heaters that have an anode. Plugging the hole also is done to allow winter condensation to drain and to keep critters out of the tank. GJ