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Mingy

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Everything posted by Mingy

  1. FWIW I just got the recall message a few days ago. Hull #389. Got under it with my 1/2 inch wrench set to 60 ft - lbs. None of the bolts budged. A long extension and a u-joint were necessary for the bottom two bolts on each wheel.
  2. I have a 2007 F250 crew cab longbed with a V-10. 38 gallon gas tank gives me a highway range, with safety margin, of 300+ miles, on flatlands. No payload worries even though I tend to travel heavy. Handles well. More than adequate power and torque. 5R110 tranny is sound and has been reliable. The engine is reliable and basic maintenance is easy, parts are readily available. Highly recommend this set up based on my experience so far. Yes, I know a diesel has braking advantages, more power, better mileage. Also sharply increased up front costs, and it costs more to maintain. That difference, will pay for a lot of gas. I would like better brakes, though mine are more than adequate for my driving style and the trips that I have taken. But that's it.
  3. The ship, be sinking. And just how far can it sink? The sky's the limit.
  4. Thanks for all the information. As it turned out, I hadn't given the thermostat box itself enough time to cool down. I set the thermostat to 90 (heat) and the ambient temp of the trailer was 82 but when I shot the temp of the thermostat control itself it was over 90, it is not blown on directly by AC. Probably warm air inside the pantry too didn't help.
  5. I'll try the fuse first - pull out, crimp socket, reinsert. No organic peas. Hell, no organic anything. But a blue ice flex pack should do the trick.
  6. Greetings all, Every month I check all the systems in the Oliver. As usual, everything worked. The surge suppressor shut down my AC intermittently because the line voltage was 110, not unusual on a 100 degree Florida afternoon with everyone's AC cranked. But I was able to cool the interior into the low 80's to test the furnace, and nothing happened when the thermostat (furnace heat setting) was set to 90. The gas works fine - fridge is running on it. The water heater works fine. The blower for the furnace did not come on, nor did it fire. I pulled the furnace cover outside and all connections seemed tight and no trash was present. No apparent burned spots on the board. Now, am I unaware of some feature that requires a lower outside temperature for the furnace to work, or does this seem like a bug? Any help would be appreciated. Mingy
  7. Craig, You will find that they are designed and built by intelligent life. Mingy
  8. Hey Ken and Judy! If you look at my profile, you will see that I named my Airstream "The Silver Sieve." If I wanted to design a TT to rot itself out, I couldn't do better than an Airstream. Replacing one axle and the AC? The nearest dealership wanted $5000.00. I told them that I wanted Sandra Bullock to call me "Big Daddy" but that wasn't going to happen either. It is somebody's hunting camp now and I am towing an Ollie. No regrets.
  9. I have both the Honda and the Yamaha. I can sling the Yamaha around where I want it but the Honda is a different story, would need help going from ground to truck or trailer. I keep it on a utility cart and that makes it easy to get into my truck. Used to powerlift, and my girlfriend is a bodybuilder, but she's almost maxed out with one side of the Honda and probably couldn't lower it slowly into the basket on the Oliver to check the fit. Wish I had gotten the Micro Air. Then the Yamaha plus other goodies would fit in the basket, and the Yamaha would run the AC easily. You live and learn.
  10. I have both. Just not an EZ start because I was penny wise and pound foolish so I need the Honda to run the AC w/o hiccups. Installing the Micro Air will void the warranty I think. I have a locking mount for the Honda in my truck, so if I wanted to camp/atv ride it would be necessary to put the atv in my truck and the generator in the trailer tray. After backing out the atv the genset could be locked down in my truck. I can lift the Honda but can't position it in the box to check the fit. My preliminary measurements tell me it will be close as can be.
  11. Greetings All, Does anyone know if an EU 3000I by Honda will fit in the tongue box without mods? Its weight is about the max allowable in the tongue box, say about 150 lbs. Mingy
  12. I have a V-10 6.8 L, 5R-110 tranny. Thirsty engine but robust. I wonder how the new 7.3 will compare? 288 hp, 4000 rpm, and 424 lb ft at 3000 rpm for a V-10. OK, maybe it will beat those numbers. Then the question is durability. 10 cylinders to spread the load over vs 8? It's hard to imagine anything more durable than a V-10. Oh well, only 150k on my V-10, and I'm just pulling an Ollie. It'll be a while before I need a new one.
  13. Thanks John. That pump is similar in capacity to the one I have. Since I keep my spares topped off and my tires inflated properly any non-junk compressor should work adequately well. The ones I'm considering would have an air reservoir to blow out window channels, etc. Since neither can operate an impact wrench, I'm beginning to think the differences between them are academic. BTW I bought a Viking jump pack the other day like you have. I'll probably keep it in my jeep since I have a 770 amp jump starter for my tow vehicle, a V10. Very impressed with the little Viking.
  14. Hello Kids, I was wondering what kind of air compressor to buy. I have a tire inflator from HF that has performed well, a VIAIR knock off that I keep in my truck. Home Depot has a Ryobi 18V 1 gal, and Ridgid 18V 1 gal, that I am looking at. The Ridgid takes two batteries (will work on one) and since I already have Ridgid 18v tools for the Oliver I may go that way but it is 100 dollars more. And bigger by a significant amount. Neither will operate an impact wrench for removing lug nuts. What do you guys carry on the road? Which way would you go here? Mingy
  15. Too dam right about the RV industry. I bought a 2001 Airstream used in 2003, and by 2006 it was springing a new leak every year in spite of being properly maintained. The water would leak down between the aluminum shells and wet the insulation and then hit the plywood subfloor, under a cabinet of course. The subfloor was covered in carpet underlayering, then carpet, then plastic, then cabinetry. No way to dry it out. Huge sections of the floor rotted. When I did pull the cabinetry I was shocked at the sloppy fit and finish of EVERYTHING from the access holes to the wiring to the woodwork. The outer panels had filigree corrosion here and there and are a nightmare to replace. The design of the heater vent admitted water to the venturi box under the sink. The torsion axle can go bad on one side, not the other, but it has to be replaced as a unit.....and we are talking $$$. Much easier to work on an Ollie. But it did look nice with a pink flamingo out front........ Now IMHO the Ollie could use moulded sills over the windows (ALL RV's need this), and a marine AC mounted down low, say, in the closet. I like your idea about marine appliances, but at least you can replace those in the Ollie pretty easily. But it's the best unit out there for anywhere close to the money.
  16. I suggest a Bug A Salt for kicks. Have one, love it. And camp with someone who tastes better than you.
  17. I have a Proven Industries lock. Very imposing piece of metal, a bit tricky to install the first few times. Looks like it will do the job. I also am going to install a GPS tracker today under the AC shroud. Pulling a jack fuse is something else I have done and I agree that a kill switch for the jacks would be a most welcome mod. Can one get grade 8 security bolts for the coupler? If so I'll try that. You can make it difficult enough so that most thieves will give up if they have to spend a lot of time outside the vehicle futzing around. And have a way to track your vehicle if they succeed. (Only if you find it, don't expect police to actually make an arrest, even if they catch the thief inside the trailer. That's dangerous. It's safer to block 3 lanes of traffic, during rush hour, because some schmuck dropped his transfer case pulling out of Dairy Queen. 8 cops will respond to that with a quickness, and block all three lanes, instead of one cop pushing the truck back into the parking lot. I wouldn't have their job, but I pay their salaries, and the way they allocate their resources leaves much to be desired around here.) An NRA Instructor sticker in the window wouldn't hurt. Maybe there is a way to hide a pygmy rattlesnake under the coupler. That would get their day off to a flying start. Mingy
  18. Yes indeed. Applying 3M over an un-prepped surface is a potent time waster. I just wish that visors were available, like the ones that most cars seem to have over their windows (or in front of the sunroof) now. If they stuck out about 6 inches horizontally and came down 3-4 inches over the window that would stop a lot of problems before they start. Mingy
  19. Hello All, just picked up hull 389 early November. Drove from Hoehnwald to NE Florida in heavy rain, no leaks. Two nights ago, got caught in a sideways rain, almost horizontally hitting the dinette and street side rear window, about 2 inches in under an hour. Both windows were open so water got inside but when closed the dinette window kept leaking. I suspect that the channels were already full and that didn't help. Level trailer and clear weep holes. My solution will be to check the porch light seals, try the pipecleaner trick, and try to run down some rv gutters which in my opinion all RV's should have anyway. But is there a particular brand of RV gutter that works with an Oliver? Thanks, Mingy
  20. Tire Traker. That's the brand.
  21. Haven't decided yet but I am leaning toward the brand that Mr Davies in Spokane uses. Slips what's left of my mind right now but I have pulled it up on Amazon I think. I have until October anyway. Still need to get my hull number......been a busy summer.
  22. OK, I'll give them a call. I don't think they've laid the hull yet anyway, something like that would be an easy switch before the tires are mounted.
  23. Hey kids, I just ordered an LE 2 for delivery in mid October. Sold my leak-ridden Airstream to a welder who will either make a hunt camp or a meth lab out of it. Happiest day of my life (recently) was when that piece of junk rolled out of the driveway. I was wondering, since I want to install a TPMS, if the Olivers come with metal valve stems? Mingy
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