dougi

After joining the site, I posted numerous searches for places to park our RV, free overnight. I found many listings and the site is very easy to navigate and use. There are clear directions to each site, GPS coordinates for each site, a date of last reporting on each site, and a description of it's suitability, including such things as noise levels, security concerns, how level the site is, how close the site is to other amenities, etc.. I was very impressed with the site and I feel it will be well worth the cost of joining. For anyone traveling around the country for a few weeks or months each year, it should be very cost effective and convenient. It covers the USA and Canada and has about 5,500 sites listed, with more listings added every day by the members of the site.

I ran across this web site today and joined. It cost $18.00 per year, but after you join you can post updates or confirmations to the already listed sites or post new sites and get two additional weeks for each, so it would be easy for someone to never have to pay again and still maintain your membership, year after year. Take a look and see if it makes sense for your style of RVing: http://www.overnightrvparking.com/index.php Membership also entitles you to access to a Yahoo, members only, blog site about free/cheap overnight RV parking around the USA and Canada.

I don't have solar panels so I'm just taking a WAG here, but would it be possible to use gas struts (like the ones used on hatchbacks) to lift the panels? They come in all sorts of sizes, strokes, and weight ratings. With the right ones the problem would then be one of holding them DOWN instead of UP. That is a great idea! I think it has promise. I would think Oliver could find a pair of struts to permanently install on the roof, once on each end of the array. I don't think it would allow any adjustments of the tilting, but it would provide for much higher amperage charging than we can get from leaving the panels flat. It would make the tilting arms that we have to install on the array and on the bracket that holds the array unnecessary. Just climb the ladder, disconnect one side of the array, lift the panels lightly, and one side of the panels rise to the fully extended height, designed to approximate the proper tilt for maximizing battery charging. I will talk to Robert to see what he thinks.

Chris, I am wondering if a long handled tool of some sort could be used by someone on the ground to keep the solar array lifted up to the appropriate height for installing the tilt arms, while another person on a ladder could install the tilt arms, one on each end of the two panel array. Even that would be awkward because the tool would have to be placed in the middle of the up-side of the two panel array and the person on the ladder would have to come down and reposition the ladder to access the other end of the panel in order to install the arm at the other end of the array, all while the parson on the ground held up one side of the array . I tried to make short prop sticks to use while I installed the tilting arms, one for each end of the array, but they kept slipping off the trailer because it is slick and slanted where the prop sticks have to meet the trailer's gel coat. Those panels are heavy and it is next to impossible to hold up the array while you insert and install one or two arms at each end of the array. Maybe Oliver could give the project some thought and come up with something, however the need to tilt them is not ever present. If we camped without electricity for weeks at a time it would likely be necessary if you used much electricity. It would be easy to accomplish with two people and two ladders, but I have found that an 8 foot step ladder is necessary to access the area while you are comfortable lifting the array, so I think it would take two 8 foot ladders and one person at each end of the array, not an easy thing to find while camping in most places. Eight foot step ladders are a load to carry in and of themselves. To have to carry two of them is even more of a challenge, although it is doable if you have a suitable roof rack on your tow vehicle. An long aluminum (or other light weight material like a wooden clothes rod) pole with a device on the end that would fit under the side of the array and hold it up with no danger of it slipping off could be handled by someone on the ground while another person on an 8 foot ladder could install the tilting arms, one set of arms on each end of the array. That sounds like the most feasible solution to me, unless shorter prop sticks could be used by someone on the ladder, and that would take installing something to hold the bottom of the prop sticks to keep them from slipping and letting the array crash down on it's frame while you are trying to install the tilting arms. Such prop sticks would need to be adjustable in length so that the tilting of the array could be maximized for the highest amperage charging (a steeper angle in the winter than in the summer). Something like the handles that are on the mini Adjust-A-Brush washing brush, which extends from 26 to 40 inches long (Camping World item #11055) should do the job if you could outfit them with a device on the end that would hold up half the weight of the heavy array. Perhaps the Adjust-A-Brush people could make a device to fit on the end of their brush wand that would do the trick. Oliver could custom design and fabricate adjustable length aluminum prop rods to hold up the solar array while someone installs the tilt arms to the ends of the array, but they could not sell enough of them to make it worth their effort. They could even permanently install the prop rods on the roof, one set on each side of the trailer so the propping up of the array could be accomplished from either side of the trailer. Let's continue to work on a solution. Let me know if you think of something.

Sorry to say that a memorial service for a good friend will keep us from attending this event. I know you will all have a great time and we are sorry we will not be with you. Doug

We have the factory installed Voyager camera and receiver on our unit and I really like it. It provides a wide angle view of everything behind the trailer and I keep it on all the time while towing, using it as a rear view mirror. I would not call it essential, but I would not choose to be without it. Sometimes I forget to turn the camera on when I first take off with the trailer in tow, and when I do I pull the rig over and turn it on ASAP. It gives me much comfort knowing what is behind my trailer at all times. It provides audio as well as video feed to the receiver. The screen brightness and the audio volume are both adjustable on the receiver, which is easily mounted with a suction cup to the windshield, with the bottom of the receiver resting on the dashboard. I recommend it highly.

I am interested in finding out if anyone is tilting their top mounted solar panels in order to maximize the electrical recharging of the batteries. I am seeking a way to do it without the assistance of another person and two ladders. Also, I wonder if those of you who got the big inverters are finding that you get as much use out of them as you expected. If you are, tell us how and for what you are using them in order to power your 110 volt applications. I would think if you use the inverters very much, you would need to tilt your solar panels to maximize their effectiveness. Installing the tilt arms is an awkward task for me, so if any of you have any good solutions, please let me know. I have two 100 watt panels mounted center top. So far, I have not needed to tilt them in order to keep my batteries charged, but if I set up longer term off-grid, I feel I may need the ability to tilt them to the sun.

I have no spreadsheet but I can tell you some things I feel are important. (1) The difference between the sport and the Legacy is the frame. The Sport frame is made of steel, while the Legacy frame is made of aluminum. The aluminum frame was very important to me because I wanted the lighter weight and no rust. The Sport model is the base entry level trailer and has the fewest options. (2) The difference between the Legacy and the Legacy Elite is simply the option levels. The Elite has more and upgraded options. However, you can add options to the Legacy and delete options from the Elite and could end up with essentially the same trailer. (3) Oliver trailers now come in two sizes, 17 and 22 foot models. Your camping preferences (full hookups or dry camping/ eat out or cook-inside or outside) will tend to determine which options you need. Your desire for space and your tow vehicle will determine which size is best for you. Tell us more about how and how often you plan to use your trailer and we can give your our recommendations and opinions on trailers and options. I have never seen the 22 foot model and it is brand new. I don't think anyone on the board owns a 22 foot model. Each trailer is built according to the needs and desires of each individual Oliver Owner. Oliver is outstanding at working with you to get your trailer built with the equipment and options you want.

Hi Cherie and Chris, Geneva and I would be so pleased to have you two visit us near Lexington. I sent you a PM about this yesterday or the day before. Doug

We were sorry that the Oliver's did not make the Rally. A lot of folks were disappointed they did not get a chance to meet them and see the new 22 foot Oliver. One gentleman stopped buy and asked if they were there. He had seen the trailer in Quartsite and wanted to take another look before he made a final buy/no buy decision. He was unhappy with his 20 foot Airstream, and was keenly interested in the 22 foot Oliver for full timing. He was alone and driving a Nissan Titan pickup. I don't remember his name. Doug

Geneva and I will be in the San Jose/San Francisco area in August for the US Senior Olympics with our Oliver. If you have any RV parks to recommend in Redwood City or any other things you would like to recommend we try or do, please let us know. We will likely be in California for the month of July and come to the Bay area for the Olympics on or about the 7th of August. We can linger in the area after the Olympics, or head slowly back to Texas and home, so we can arrive back home sometime in October when the Texas heat is not so bad. It will be our first long trip in the Oliver. We have to keep camping and dining costs down, as we are not wealthy, so we will stay in Government camp grounds where we can get half price with our geezer pass, and fix most of our own meals. If anyone will be traveling in these areas during these times, we would welcome your company.

That looks very good, and a good price. If you want to be able to block the view (wind or prying eyes) from the sides, be sure it has the capacity to do that.

I put a bungee cord around my waste to keep me from falling off the 2ft. wide ledge I sleep on at night.

I just ordered this one: http://www.sunnysports.com/Prod/Categor ... html?Hit=1 $100 off, no tax, free shipping. Looked like a good deal to me. Thanks for the replies. Doug

I've been thinking about a screen shelter to take with us when we go camping in the Oliver. I bet some of you have such a shelter and perhaps you could recommend one you like. I think they would make staying outdoors more comfortable by keeping the insects at bay and shielding the wind and light rain. I found this one and it looks good to me. http://www.sunnysports.com/prod/ERKTBW. ... 27316842-2 Any advice from some of you who have already used a screen shelter?

They told me they did not want the liability that a Cat heater install might bring, but they would run a gas line for me. I can't say I blame them. I probably wouldn't do it either if I were a trailer manufacturer. Your install looks great because the heater is mounted on the wall as opposed to just sitting on the floor. That makes it much safer. Did you consider a Wave 6? I think it might fit where you put your Wave 3, if it were mounted horizontally. The Wave 3 might not produce enough heat to keep the trailer warm when it's below freezing outside, but I think the Wave 6 would. I used a Wave 8 for a 29 ft 5th wheel and it was very adequate to heat the entire trailer when it was freezing outside.

The advantages of a Cat Heater are: (1) Virtually silent operation. Totally variable heat output, but no thermostat. Easy to light. No match required. (2) 100% efficient. Uses far less propane for the btus' generated, as compared to a furnace. Most of the heat from the furnace is directed outside the trailer and is wasted. (3) Uses no electricity so it saves your battery. The furnace uses 12 V electricity to power the fan and it can run down a single battery overnight when it's cold. That is a great install Mountainborn. I predict you will LOVE your heater. I tried to get Oliver to install one on our trailer, but they wouldn't do it. I may retrofit just like you have.

Hi Patty, You are, of course, welcome to look at our Oliver as well. I don't know what space I will be in (We don't have Pete's connections) but we expect to be there somewhere. Out trailer has the twin bed option, while Pete's has the double bed option, so you will get to see both. Hope to see you there, Geneva and Doug

Johnson City is home to the Hill Country Cupboard, a cafe that was rated as one of the 40 top small town cafes in Texas (Dec, 2008 edition). Nearby there is the little town of Luckenbach (22 miles), and the larger town of Frederickburg (30 miles), and the LBJ State Historical Park (10 miles), all of which would make for a nice side trip while we are in Johnson City. Fourteen miles south is the town of Blanco. A short distance to the east (about 10 miles) is Pedernales Falls State Park, a beautiful State Park. Plenty of places to go and things to do while we are in Johnson City. We're looking forward to being there.

My wife, Geneva, loves to play bridge. Does anyone else attending the event play bridge?

If any bridge players will be in attendance at this rally, please let us know. Geneva loves to play.

Of course one of the down sides to this modification is that we have to do without our swing-up rear table. We considered that carefully, noting that the table, while useful, does not sit level when it's up. It slopes downward from where it is hinged and drinks and other things can easily slide off and spill if you are not careful. I don't think we will miss the table too much. We'll see.

Geneva and I ordered our Oliver with the twin bed option in the rear, so as to have more storage and food preparation area, and so that one of us would not have to climb over the other in order to go to the facilities in the front of the trailer during the night. Unfortunately, Geneva is a restless sleeper and moves around a lot during the night while she sleeps. The rear bed area is too narrow for her to get a good night's sleep and she is reluctant to go camping in the Oliver, especially for longer periods of time, which is something we plan on doing for at least 2-3 months at a time at least once a year. I use the street side narrow (24 inches wide) bed area but it does not bother me too much. I can get a decent night's sleep. What to do? We like the Oliver but if Geneva is unable to get a good night's sleep that's a serious problem for us. I got to looking at the rear area of the trailer and I noticed an opportunity. On both sides of the aisle, from the stripper pole back to the front edge of the rear bed there are small notches at the top of the fiberglass aisle sides that were put there to hold the big rear fiberglass dining table on the standard double bed Oliver. So, I constructed a platform out of 1/2 inch balitc birch plywood, gluing two pieces together to make it 1 inch thick (for strength), cut and formed it so it would fit in the notches at the top of the fiberglass aisle sides, forming a platform (about 29 1/2 inches wide and 24 1/2 inches deep) where I could put a new cushion, which I will have to have custom made, about the same width and depth as the plywood platform, making a bed area the same width as the standard double bed, except for the area where the curb side cabinet just to the right of the stove (only on the twin bed Oliver) sits. To do this, I had to remove the swing-up table attached to the street side cabinet and store it (easy & quick to do). This leaves the storage area in that cabinet far more convenient to access, since we no longer have the swing-up table in the way. Getting down on your hands and knees to access this cabinet was no fun...that problem will also be solved! We will have a new cushion made that fits snugly over the plywood platform that will be about 3/4 inch thicker than the other standard cushions, so this expanded area of the bed will be the same height as the rest of the rear bed cushions, on top of which we will place a three inch memory foam mattress pad to match the rest of the bed area. This will give Geneva a rear bed area that is the same width as the standard rear double bed, except at the foot area of the bed, allowing her plenty of room to toss and turn during the night. During the day, we will remove the plywood platform, the cushion and foam mattress on top of it, and store them in the back of our truck, restoring our longer center aisle, and allowing very convenient access to both the street-side cabinet storage area and the big drawer at the end of the aisle near the floor of the trailer. This also will give us a large place (under the plywood platform at the rear of our aisle) to put our clothes and the footwear we took off before we got ready for bed, and it's easy to access them when we get up the next morning, and they will not in be our way when we get up in the middle of the night. Now, If only I could modify my bed area to make it wider and more comfortable. Oh well, you can't have everything you want. If this doesn't work, we will have to get rid of our Oliver, but I think it will work. I'll let you know how it works for us after we test it out in a few weeks at the FGRV rally in Johnson City, TX in February. I suppose no one else is experiencing the same problem Geneva is having, but that doesn't give her much consolation.

If you have an account with an investment brokerage firm, you could use your margin account to finance the trailer. That would give you a very low interest rate, perhaps 4 1/2% or so.

Yes, these trailers are a model of real quality, from the aluminum frame to the fiberglass roof and shells, and everything in between, EXCEPT for the appliances. IMO, the RV industry has failed the high end, energy conscious consumer when it comes to appliances, but that is nothing Oliver can do much about. 90 plus percent of the RV appliances are sold to RV manufacturers, and they want the cheapest thing they can put in their RV's so as to keep their prices low. Quality, quiet, energy efficient RV appliances are almost non-existent, and consumers will have to raise their voices to change things. In the mean time, we all have to put up with low quality, loud, energy inefficient RV appliances in our RV's, especially when it comes to the air conditioners and furnaces.