theOrca

This is my post last on this subject. It seems unreasonable to believe that the name and location an auto parts store on a medium sized island in Puget Sound is going to be helpful to anyone else this list. It does seem reasonable to believe that you are demanding "show me." I decline.

jd, I do not mind strongly held opinions most of us have some. I do somewhat object to passive aggressive behavior towards those who differ with YOUR opinions.

NOT special order. I just walked in bought a Set 49 and walked out. The package passed the "fake" check...

That also lets you actually use the last 7 gallons of fresh water...

For the Neverlube - one axle end equals one bearing... See the Timken info above.

For those who have never used "Grok," I have provided a sample below. The thing I find so wonderful about Grok is the ability to ask a common language question about a hard to understand subject and get an answer you can use. If something confuses you, you simply type a followup on the same form saying something like: "Please explain XYZ more, I am not getting it. Grok then continues. The below screen shot is what Grok gave me when I asked it to give me the exact match of Timken bearing to the Dexter Neverlube bearing (serial number from my D52 build sheet. Have fun.

Nevermind. I found the answer about two pages before this one:

Can someone explain to me (with pictures and drawings if needed) how the Neverlube bearing system works. Being more of a tekkie and less of a motorhead, I have understood that axle bearings are - 1 an Inner race, and 2, an outer race on a common shaft. with shoulder bracing against inner movement of the inner race, and a nut preventing outer movement of the outer race. Someone recently posted on this forum that the Timken Set 49 was a direct replacement for the Neverlube. Price difference being "¼ of" with Timken being the cheapest for once. I have looked at the Timken Set 49, and it is ONE outer bearing sleeve with two inner races. Maybe 2" long. I cannot begin to guess how that works. Please help the mentally challanged.

$3,239, Ouch ! Getting the Alcan stuff on order was easy. Not so much the D52 axles. Lew won't drop ship axles anymore since FedEx damaged that one set. I do not blame him at all, I would not either. Problem was that Washington State does NOT have a Dexter Branch, only Dexter distributors who seem to want to order the axles themselves rather than be shipping forwarders. Got back to Lew. He is going to have Dexter ship the axles to the Wilsonville, Oregon Dexter branch and I am going to have Oak Harbor Freight lines pick them up and deliver them to my installer in Mount Vernon, WA. About $375... Heck I would pay $300 just to not have to drive through Seattle traffic (twice). Now we wait for Dexter.

The idea was great, but the implementation by the suits of Howenwald leaves a lot to be desired. I had work done at the Salem, Oregon "Oliver Dealer." they eventually did a good job, but I did have to do TWO round trips between Salem and Whidbey Island, Washington to get it done right. They stood behind their work, and all ended well (But TWO trips through Seattle traffic!) Turns out that NO ONE from their service department had been to Howenwald for training, nor had anyone from Howenwald been to Salem. Qualified for Oliver service? I think not.

I have tried to run through all xxx-hundred posts on this subject at least twice. I still cannot find reference to the actual Dexter part number of the correct D52 axle for my E2. My Olly (615) unfortunately has the old 3500 axles and cheap CCP springs. I intend to have the work done locally. I have ordered the correct ez-flex and shoulder bolts from e-trailer, will order the 5 leaf springs and U-bolts from Alcan. I want to have the local shop order the correct complete axle assemblies directly from Dexter. Would someone please chime-in with the correct part number for the Dexter Axle? Pretty please with a shot of single malt... Bill

I hesitate to even jump in on this topic, but would like some constructive opinions. I have a ½ ton Dodge truck with ¾ ton springs and 100 PSI airbags. I have never used the Anderson WDH items since right after the first 1,000 trailer miles. I do like the Anderson Bulldog connection system as I can massively lock the trailer onto the truck ball. I am still using the Anderson ball assembly as I saw no reason to change to a different system. The Olly is uber stable. I have done some more than a little crazy lane changes at speed to avoid accidents. They went well, with probably a 20 degree initial trailer sway with instant recovery. Am is missing something here? (BTW, those lane changes involved a full half turn of the steering wheel in each direction. NO brakes.)

Great question. Such focus on weight alone makes NO allowance for the quality of the steel nor the quality of the heat tempering.

I would rather have a great product with no warranty than a fair product with a great warranty. The time and PITA factor in obtaining warranty work/recompense is ..., well, a PITA.

theOrca