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Mountainman198

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Posts posted by Mountainman198

  1. 17 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

    The answer, is probably "yes".

    Recently, we upgraded 200 watts of solar on our 2008 Elite to 400 watts of solar. We doubled our portable panel(s), also, from 100 watts to two 100 watt panels.

    We combined  the old controller as a slave  mppt controller to the mix  in addition to the new mppt (blue Sky). Ran the wiring from the furrion port to the slave  controller,  instead of directly to the battery, via the original onboard panel controller,  which we removed.

    We live on 2 105 ah agm batteries  in our 2008. That's not a lot of power, considering we have a 12v dc danfoss/second fridge. I will caution others that we use very little power for other things. We have no inverter. We use a generator for any rare 110 applications, like power tools.  

    Our test so far :

    Fine at home, with not much running. No need to plug in.

    Last camping trip on NC, partial day shade, 12 days, only had to run the generator once on 12 days, after two crappy rainy days, as blue sky meter showed less than 75% power in batteries .

    This trip, crummy weather. Overcast most of the day, full leaf cover. Still, only down by 5 hours at sunset. Ran the furnace fan a few times in the day (in the 50s in the morning here), but picked up enough sun that we felt no need to plug in the generator,  though we used it to run some power tools.

    At night we set our analog thermostat to low, which is around 55  . We're fine with that. Others are not. We sleep well at that temp, and the furnace doesn't kick on.

    This is an experiment.  When our current agms die, we'll likely move up to lithium.  In the meantime,  we're perfectly happy with over-panelling, and our current battery power .

    I'll update as we go.

    We successfully ran our SOB trailer with three 100W panels (way over-paneled), a mppt controller and two 80Ah AGMs and had lots of power to run the compressor fridge/freezer, lighting, device charging and 120v television. Granted, we don’t  use much power and only have a 100w inverter. The 340w of solar, 2000w inverter and four 6v AGMs in the new Oliver should be overkill for us, but looking forward to it. We will get microwave delete and don’t plan to use a lot of amp-heavy appliances, save for the occasional toaster oven and coffee maker when plugged-in. 

    • Like 2
  2. On 5/1/2021 at 7:40 AM, Fran said:

    Alot of first time buyers....during This Pandemic buying Frenzy....most have not seen a Oliver due to how scarce they are....its alot of money to part with.....especially on impulse....just remember to accept that 90% of the people will not show....go about your day as usual......have them call a couple hours out so you know they are really on their way. If they keep changing the day and time....tell them you are no longer interested in selling. I have driven thousand of miles total looking at trailers and rvs....but first I do my research..get plenty of photos top to bottom, inside doors, especially maint records....detailed....in your case its new....most do very little research or make an effort to find one and go in it to see if it works for them. Just taping off the size on the floor with blue tape will give you an idea if its too small....I am one person and can make just about any small camper work for me....my issue is I look and see all the wasted space with the extra bed, extra dinette seat and wish someone would build a solo unit in fiberglass.....good luck and sometime it takes time to sell such a new unit...even at a discount.

    Tab 400 made a solo model with a single twin bed 

     

    • Like 1
  3. 4 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    If you install a DC fridge you will need a better way to recharge. For your gas fridge, use the propane mode when towing, but always be aware of the wind direction when refueling at a gas station. I have done this forever and have yet to blow something up. You can fix the lack of TV charging for the factory lithium batteries relatively easily, but you have to be able to fabricate a mount and run wires or hire somebody to do it. If your TV has a “smart” alternator you have to run a small gauge voltage sense wire all the way up to the engine bay, but most TVs do not require this.

    61DF60D3-6200-4372-9B33-6C1D5D56DC9E.thumb.jpeg.9b453868b76e9d06e7713c4c7babc34d.jpeg

    https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5270-how-to-redarc-dc-to-dc-11-amp-output-trailer-charger-installation/

    Consider a separate DC compressor fridge located inside your truck, it will be very useful for stocking extra supplies. I carry a mid-sized ARB one for any trip longer than two weeks. I haven’t camped at over 8000 feet, but so far the gas fridge (running on propane)  has been fine, even going over 10,000 foot passes. Run with what you have before getting too worried about upgrading.....

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    We have been running a Dometic CFX-35 in the bed of our tow vehicle now for a year and find it to be an excellent addition to the fridge in our current SOB trailer.  Plan is to keep this compressor fridge in the TV after getting the Ollie in September.  The setup we have to run the chest compressor fridge in the bed of the truck is a 100W solar panel mounted on the roof rack on the truck shell run to a MPPT controller which then feeds two 12v AGM batteries mounted to the front of the truck bed.  Never had any issues with being able to run the dometic either in fridge or freezer mode 24/7 and then fully recharging the batteries the next day.  This system is NOT tied into the TV electrical, rather a stand-alone system.  Planning to use it after getting the Ollie to charge Ollie batteries when Ollie is parked in the shade by parking TV is full sun and running wires from battery bank in truck bed to Zamp port on Ollie instead of hauling around a ground mount, portable panel.  The Dometic sips amps and is useful for either overload food or to freeze a lot of water bottles/freezer packs for use in a cooler when away from the trailer.

     

     

    • Like 2
  4. 3 hours ago, johnwen said:

    Thanks Bill.  We didn't have the resources to pay for an Oliver until we sold the house last year.  We really hate the idea of leaving the Casita behind, so we'll keep it in storage for a year or so after we get the Oliver to make sure of the "Oliver life."  They look similar from the outside and we've even had a few people ask if the Casita was an Oliver...since we have no logos on the Casita.

    We are doing the same (keeping current camper until convinced the Ollie is the way to go).  However, I suspect the old one will sit unused and then later sold.  

    • Like 2
  5. This one works well.  You can place it atop the Tow Vehicle or on the tripod.

    https://www.amazon.com/KING-OA1501-Portable-Omnidirectional-Antenna/dp/B01MSDL4UU/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=king+portable+antenna&qid=1618153214&sr=8-3

    We also have a cheapo Walmart flat indoor antenna that can be placed in the window facing in whatever direction the signal is transmitting.  Works well for short range. 

    • Like 2
  6. 16 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

     

    There are a number of threads on waxes. It will be hard to pick.

    We've used 3m ultraMarine for many years. With supply issues We've changed over to Collinite marine. It's a little tougher to apply, but great protection,  and a high per centage of real carnuba.

    Btw, search doesn't work on three letter words. Try waxing, instead of wax, if you'd like to read more posts (til your eyes glaze over....)

    I searched and searched the Net and local brick and mortar over to find what may be one of the last tins of 3M Marine Ultra. A email to 3M reveals that this product has been discontinued and Their suggested replacement is the liquid-based 3M™ Perfect-It™ Boat Wax, 36113.  As a fan of paste waxes, a liquid replacement is not great news but I will try a bottle and see.  

     

    • Thanks 1
  7. 6 hours ago, Fritz said:

    Here is a draft delivery checklist prompted, in part, by comments regarding a recent inverter-mount failure (see below).  

    This delivery inspection checklist began with one used by NCeagle for his delivery, to which I've added items.  The list is almost certainly incomplete -- what other items would you suggest to help new buyers?  

    Thanks to Oliver for providing this educational ad-free forum, and to all of you for your forum posts that have contributed to this list.   This open-dialogue forum is IMHO a huge asset to the OliverOllie Inspection Checklist (draft 4-9-2021).pdf travel trailer brand.

    I divided the list into two parts: (1) the actual delivery day inspection and (2) items for further inspection at DCSP.  I plan on testing the list in 3 weeks when we pick up Hull 792, and will refine the list based on this experience (and with your additions, suggestions, comments, etc).

    The list is in pdf form.  Once updated, I'd be happy to send out (or post) an xlsx version.

    1080089582_ScreenShot2021-04-08at12_37_59PM.thumb.png.ea83944cc83ffa1a81a0fc214c2de803.png

     

     

    Thanks for doing this Fritz.  Nice Job.  I have printed both lists (yours and mine) and will compare over coffee tomorrow morning.  From first glance it looks complete.  I'll pass along any adds I may have which would be of interest to any new owner.

    • Thanks 2
    • Like 2
  8. 1 hour ago, TxTortoise said:

    Has anyone made a pre-delivery checklist of all these low probability, but occurring failures, scattered about the forums from new owner pickups?  

    This is a great idea if not already done.  My delivery is not until this Fall but I have been adding items I am seeing as either significant or recurring in the Forum to my own checklist.  Perhaps if each new owner asks the same questions about the same issues at delivery the appropriate level of focus will be made so that the issues are resolved permanently.

    • Like 3
  9. We are planning to keep the LP cooktop inside the camper.  It will only be used to heat water for coffee, tea and hot cereal as meal cooking will be done outside.  No plans on upgrading to portable induction as our current single and double burner portable electric cooktops work just fine.  It is always nice to have multiple methods and fuels with which to cook.  In addition to indoor propane and portable electric, we are also carrying a double burner propane stove, Weber Q series grill, wood-fired BioLite stoves and a small multi-fuel Primus stove.  Having not only a plan A and B but also C, D and maybe even E gives us peace of mind that hot drinks and meals are never far away.

     

    • Like 2
  10. I have flip-flopped back and forth between regular fabric and ultrafabric now at least 5 times (final order not due for a few months yet).  Will be ordering the twin with couch with standard cushions.  Ultrafabric upgrade is $849 in this configuration and color palate is limited to a single color (gray).  My current plan is NOT to order ultrafabric and use the standard fabric until such time as it gets damaged, worn out or I get tired of it .  At that time I will have an upholstery shop recover all the cushions in ultrafabric, in a brighter color.  My thinking is that I can use the standard fabric while I decide and cost to recover might even be less than or equal to $849.  Heck, I may like the standard fabric and never upgrade.

    Has anyone else ordered the standard fabric then had a local upholstery shop recover their cushions in ultrafabric or something similar?  If so, what was the cost?  

    • Like 1
  11. 3 hours ago, Airedales said:

    If you have a bike hitch on your trailer.. This might work...

     

    D30BD56E-3192-4F23-BB31-43E086A9E585.thumb.jpeg.2cd4c5e963a22f5a67a694c442b9931a.jpeg

    I bought an extra mounting plate for my Lagun table when I ordered it.  Hoping to do something like this with either a hitch mount and the lagun or might try and figure out a way to affix a mounting plate to the side of the front storage box.

    • Like 1
  12. Look on the bright side, lightly used, previously depreciated tow vehicles will flood the market.  SOB trailers will also flood the used market.  All of this should result in fewer campers on the road and more availability at campgrounds.  At least this was my experience during the last round of high fuel costs (over $4/gal).  

    As for impact to personal travel plans it will force us to do a more adequate job of routing instead of merely traveling willy-nilly like pollen in the wind.  Also, use of gas apps and GoodSam fuel discount locations will become a focus.

    • Like 2
  13. 1 minute ago, FrankC said:

    I’ve had that same idea, but can the one wing of the big sheet metal wing nut be bent over, by hand or with pliers, to allow the lock to just slide off? 

    I have not tried it yet either.  Whomever tests it first should post results.  I am not against spending $ to secure the tanks but if a simple solution is possible I'd rather spend the $ on campground fees or gas. 

     

    • Like 2
  14. I don’t have my Oliver yet but I do have a Lagun table that I installed in my current camper. The lagun apparatus came without a top and I found a great bamboo cutting board and it simply attached to the bracket with six wood screws   Your options are endless. 

    • Thanks 1
  15. 11 hours ago, Carl Hansen said:

    I’m considering purchasing one of these tongue weight scales. I think it will take some of the guesswork out of the equation.  Does anyone on the forum use this scale?

    Carl
     
    https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Tools-pt-Tongue_Weight_Scale.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAiAsaOBBhA4EiwAo0_AnBUPfGgzN1DKXwoSMpSCuw1NqCmGunjpQEKoJsPb2Rla5ZUafUMEMhoCXVoQAvD_BwE

    I use a more portable version of that scale. They are great for distribution of trailer load to achieve optimal tongue weight. I carry it in the TV

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