chuckstovall

I'm still researching GJ. I'll either do another Dometic (311 if I do stay Dometic) or Thetford Aqua-Magic Style Plus low profile. Both about the same cost. Thetford appears to have much more in the way of replacement parts while Dometic offers next to none.

Thanks so much. You got me looking at the Thetford Aqua-Magic Style II low profile. Have you already done the swap? You mentioned good experience with Thetford. Can you elaborate? From what I can see, it should be plug and play? For us, it could be a great swap, very minimally lower than the current (older model 310 at 15" high) which would be good for my wife. Cheaper (at least from Amazon) but without Free Return and I'm guessing it wouldn't be cheap to send back.

Geronimo John -- Well said! I wish there were another alternative, but to be fair, Dometic customer service has been responded to my emails the last couple of days and I remain hopeful that they'll at least get me some useful info. I'll share what I learn. Meantime, I'm starting a search for some Sears and Roebucks and/or Montgomery Ward's catalogues. bhncb -- thank you. Was the 311 in your Ollie? When I compare the pics from Dometic's website, it really looks to me that the porcelain bowl on the 310 is fluted but the bowl on the 311 is more rounded. I'll be interested to know if the Thetford is any more robust than the Dometic. The guts of the pedal to flush ball connection are horrendously under-engineered and I do believe that your assertion that the Oliver base torques the pedal when fully depressed exacerbates the issue. I'm currently waiting on a response from Dometic customer service as to what exact model I need to order. I just sent them a pic of the label from my toilet so they have the S/N, etc. I'm wondering if Oliver didn't spec a 310 with a 311 base? I'm sure I can't get that particular combo. I might go with the 311 as it's only 1.5" lower than the actual measured 310 I have and it might be more comfortable for my wife. Of course, the 311 is significantly more expensive than the 310!! Just got a reply on my Oliver ticket: We use the Dometic 311 low-profile on our campers today. The Dometic 310 may have changed specs since the install on your camper in 2017. That may answer my follow-up question to bhncb. Thanks all for your input. I'll update as this saga continues. (We are headed to AZ mid-February, so hopefully I get some movement. I couldn't resist -- sorry again!)

Ain't nuthin' easy! 🙂 I've exhausted every avenue I can think of and am resigned to just ordering another toilet and throw out the perfectly good (except for the broken underengineered connection from pedal shaft to flusher ball) one the came with the Ollie. I'm ready to order a new 310 which is what the sticker on the OEM toilet says. Went out to measure and verify and found that my toilet is 15 inches from bottom of base to top of the lid (when closed) or 15.5 inches from base to top of porcelain at the back of the hinged lid area. Dometic's specs for the 310 (standard height) say 18 inches and for the 311 (low-profile) say 13.5 inches. Looking at my pictures of mine (first pic), mine is just between heights. What?? I'll reopen my ticket with Oliver and see what they have to say. (I also note the fluted shape of the bowl on mine is similar to the 310, but very dissimilar to the rounded shape of the 311, but the stand on which the porcelain bowl rests appears much shorter on mine than the 310 and more similar in height to the 311). So confusing. Anyone have any thots? .

Update: The Dometic 310 Gravity Toilet, White, Standard Height but upgraded to wood, slow close seat was initially priced at $220 on Amazon. Then went up to $295. Late last week it dropped to $150 so I just bit the bulllit and ordered it. If for some reason it's not correct, it's free returns. I'll add the Beech Lane upgraded valve (see Brian's recommendation above) just because it'll be easier prior to installing the toilet. When I'm done, I should have some toilet parts to sell here!

Thanks Bryan. I'll call them in the morning. Chuck

Agree Geronimo John. I'm sure they have their reasons ($$$) but what a waste!

I just noticed on Amazon that I can get the all plastic version for less $. Since the ceramic bowl on mine is good and the base (including the pedal assembly) appear to be the same on both, I may order it and scavenge what I need.

Thanks Geronimo John, Bill and Brian. I've winterized the camper and put it in storage now. Will finish the job in the spring when we head to AZ. Will definitely use the upgraded valve Brian. Thanks. Chuck

Thanks Bill. I will call Dometic today. Not sure if I can muster up enough tears, but I'll try. 🥲

Sorry. 🙂 Hull #297. Love this camper. This week on our last trip of the year to Great Sand Dunes Nat'l Park the flush ball valve started to give out and eventually did. Water comes on when pedal is pushed but the ball valve stopped working. After some research today I was looking at the actual pedal to flush ball connection as a likely culprit. But after disassembly, it looks solid. Then I pulled the lever shaft that actually actuates the valve and the end that fits into the valve is worn out (see pic 1). The last pic shows what it is supposed to fit into. I've put in a service ticket. But, I understand that Dometic does not sell individual parts - in fact the manual and schematic don't even list the pedal assembly, much less lever shaft as separate parts. I believe I'll be looking at buying a new toilet (about $220) for want of a small plastic replacement part that Dometic likely has on hand. 😞 One of the YouTube videos I found helpful showed a guy printing a part with a 3D printer. Not to be critical, but the video is way too long, but the 3D part creation might be interesting to some. It's not the part I need but it got me thinking. This YouTube shows disassembly/reassembly of the pedal assembly and I hope the part of spring replacement will be helpful if any of you need to do this job. So, my questions: 1) Anyone have this little piece that connects the pedal lever to the ball flush valve? (see pics below) First pic shows the actual part (minus whatever has broken or worn away). Second pic shows the hole thru which the part attaches. I tried to mark it up to show the five sides. The third pic shows it installed in it's lever. The fourth pic shows where it 'plugs' into the flush ball valve. 2) If you don't have one (and why the heck would you?), would anyone be willing to take theirs apart and take a photo and maybe even some measurements? (I'm considering the 3D printer aspect.) 3) Other ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance. Chuck

Thanks Bill and all. I did it yesterday and it was super simple. Different from the video at the top in that the zerk were on the outside vs facing inside (which seems like it might have been much simpler). I had 8 per side -- 2 on the top of where the Dexter attaches. Those were angled zerks, so they were pretty easy too. I did pull the wheels off for ease of getting to the zerks. Now that I know what I'm doing, I may try it without removing the wheels next time. All told, probably a half hour and next time it'll be quicker - unless I forget everything I learned this time (and that's as likely as not to be the case). Since I took the wheels off, I didn't need the angled grease gun tip, but next time when I try it with wheels on, I can see how the angled tip will help.

I'm greasing mine tomorrow for the first time. I've got an angled tip for the grease gun. Can anyone tell me how many zerks on a 2017 LEII? Also, any tips beyond what's already mentioned above are welcome. Thanks!

Thank you. That seemed to do it. Still not pumping in like the others but I got some in. Really appreciate it!

I just got home to Colorado from a month in sunny Arizona. I've got EVERYTHING done to put it back in storage where it will be subject to freezing temps. BUT, I can't get any pink anti-freeze to go into the City Water spigot. Fresh water inlet, water pump inlet, black tank flush inlet all take the pink but it feels like the City Water may have already frozen as I traveled home. It's going to drop temps to freezing and below in the next few hours. I checked behind the washer/screen. All clear. No ice inside the fixture for the inch or so I can check. Thot about running a ext cord out there and trying a hair dryer to warm it up? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!