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LiFeBlueBattery last won the day on September 8 2020

LiFeBlueBattery had the most liked content!

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My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own a non-Oliver RV or Travel Trailer
  • What model is your other RV or Travel Trailer?
    Hawkins Motorhome

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  1. That's a very short run from alternator to house battery. Are you measuring the entire wire length? At 10' and 100A charge current, you are loosing 2.23% through the wire plus connector and isolator losses. That's probably over 0.5 Volts. If your alternator is at 14.0V then the battery end will only be 13.5V. We recommend designing for 0.2V drop maximum if you want to charge with high current from an alternator. The important part to understand is the lower the voltage drop in he circuit, the higher current that will be delivered to your house battery.
  2. I believe I see the flaw in your test. An AGM battery at 85% SoC will draw low current. The #2 wire may also have high voltage drop thus reducing current output. A great test will be to apply a 100A continuous load on the house battery and drive again. I could be wrong here but the higher load should trigger the DC voltage to rise as it attempts to deliver demand current. The E-Torque 48V battery can not be maintained at 100% SoC as it is used for engine braking also. With low loads it must stop charging or reduce charge current to maintain the proper SoC. Their must always be "room" in
  3. I was referring to modern vehicles with complex electrical systems. Back feeding high voltage when the engine is not running may trigger fault codes or worse may be harmful.
  4. LiFeBlue Battery did not make any recommendation to leave the charge circuit disconnected. We did advise that the customer install a disconnect solenoid as shown in our auxiliary charge circuit diagram. See example of the solenoid in attached photo. We do not recommend connecting the 7 pin charge circuit without an isolation device controlled by the ignition. Your trailer charging system can reach 14.6 Volts. This voltage would be connected to the tow vehicles electronics. Check with your TV manufacturer for their recommendation.
  5. Hi Fritz, Yes, a large enough wire and the other components is all that is needed. The charging system we recommend in the diagram has been used successfully by us for nearly 2 decades in every kind of tow vehicle. The DC converter you linked to only supplies 12 Amps maximum. That will take a very long time to charge the batteries. I view DC converters like this: you have 100 feet of 1/2" garden hose. You only get a trickle of water out of the end. You want more water (power) so you buy a high pressure pump (DC converter) to try and boost the water volume (current), stressing the hos
  6. Hi John and Anita, All LiFeBlue Battery models have low temperature charge protection. Oliver is currently using our Standard battery. If the cell temperature is below the protection temperature threshold, the BMS will do one of two things: 1) If the charge current entering the battery is 0.05C or less, the BMS will pass current to the cells. For the 200AH batteries, that is 10 Amps per battery. This low current is not harmful. 2) If the current exceeds 0.05C, charge current is blocked until the release temperature is reached. Any charge or discharge current will produce some heat
  7. Here's the 4 stage routine that the PD Charge Wizard performs. BOOST Mode When you first power on, full current until you reach 14.4 Volts. NORMAL Mode 13.6 Volts after the Boost voltage is reached. (I'm not sure how long this cycle is) STORAGE Mode 13.2 Volts – Maintains charge with minimal gassing or water loss. EQUALIZATION Mode 14.4 Volts – Every 21 hours for a period of 15 minutes prevents battery stratification & sulfation. After the 15 minute of charge, the converter returns to CV Float mode that they call storage. PD terms can be confusing. "Boost" mode is usually
  8. Hello Jim and others, Jim, you are correct. The best method for storage of LiFeBlue Battery is discharge to about 50%. That should be above 13.1V. Disconnect from everything and check voltage with the Bluetooth App periodically while stored. Recharge if voltage drops below 13.0V. A battery disconnect switch (see image attached) can be connected to the positive terminal to make storing or servicing easy. As far as the PD converters with built in charge wizard go, they take good care of lead acid batteries, be they flooded or AGM. After charging, every 21 hours, a high voltage boost ch
  9. Hello, I posted before seeing your response. Please review my post above. The converter does not have to be replaced if you can use the on board button, Charge Wizard or Pendant. If you always want automatic charging, you will need to replace the converter.
  10. LiFeBlue Battery can be charged from any power source within the voltage and current range specified. Nearly all PV solar controllers have multiple modes. If it has a Li-ion mode, you can use that. If not, we recommend using the GEL battery mode for 2 reasons. #1) Temperature compensation is defeated as a GEL lead acid battery can be destroyed quickly by high voltage. #2) GEL settings float at 13.8 Volts which will keep the battery topped off until the sun sets. Did you mean to ask about "Progressive Dynamics"? PI makes surge adapters and other products; PD makes converters. The PD multi
  11. Hello George, Here's a link to the data sheet on the LiFeBlue Battery website: http://www.lifebluebattery.com/ewExternalFiles/LB12200-HCLT Data Sheet.pdf The low temperature battery was introduced about 1-1/2 years ago. It is the same as our standard 200AH except it has the heater circuit. The latest version, and the one that OTT uses, is model LB12200D-LT. This version has an RS-485 data port built in for programming and future use. We have been selling our batteries for about 4 years now. Our OEM is Shenzhen Topband Battery Co. and they design and manufacturer our cells and cu
  12. Hi NCeagle, If your generator can produce 15 Amps AC (assuming you meant this), then you can easily power the Xantrex charger for the needed amperage. I think the gap is insignificant unless you are only relying on PV solar power. 340 Watts of PV solar power in ideal conditions (high irradiance, low angle of incidence, cool cell temp) can make over 20 Amps.
  13. OK. Here's a fact from our business over many years: No customers has ever told us that they could not use the credit because the alternator or generator or shore power also charge the batteries. Customers wrote to thank us for the ITC info. They had never heard of it. They all used the full amount for the credit and were grateful for the $ thousands saved. I understand your wanting to research so I hope this is helpful.
  14. 1. RE @NCeagle's concerns about prolonged charging at 100%, I know that Battleborn batteries have a higher capacity than labeled and that their BMS is supposed to keep their batteries within a range that will prolong their life. Do you use a similar tactic or should owners be cautious about charging your batteries to 100% or depleting them to 0? I did notice that you recommend that owners deplete their batteries to 50% if being stored for longer than 30 days, whereas Battleborn recommends charging them to 100% before disconnecting. 2. Is your BMS software upgradable via your app? Are
  15. That is correct. Up to 10A per battery will bypass the heater circuit. That means with PV solar power, you can be charging in early morning, not wasting the power. If current rises above the threshold, the battery will stop charging and turn on the heater circuit. Each battery requires 12 Amps to turn on the heater. If your PV solar can not produce enough current, the battery heater timer will start. You are also correct, there may be a period where the battery heater will not be on but the current is too high to charge the cells. This is another reason I recommend installing the auxiliar
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