GraniteStaters

JD, I appreciate your feedback. Safety is important. I will review the cable runs to insure they have the proper clearance before we head out on a 3 or 4 week trip early in October. I really appreciate the help that you and Overland provided. I used a fiberglass snake when I pulled the Solar controller negative cable back to the basement just in case I had to pull it back to the battery box and reconnect it if I had too. As soon as I hooked it to the bus bar the b01/601 disappeared. Until I cabled the bus bar to the chassis ground, the voltage measure dropped and I was alerted by t

Thanks, JD. Here is the detail of my initial try using a copy of the AGM 6V in the manual. As both you suggested I have pulled back the Solar controller cable and connected to the bus bar and completed the change over to the bus bar and grounding it at the chassis. All appears well and I receive the stats I was looking for from the VictronConnect software via Bluetooth on my iPhone, iPad, and my MacBook Pro. Thanks for all your help. I have attached a final picture of the bus bar and Smart Battery Shunt.

Gary & Esther, I am sure you will be very pleased with your LEII. Paula and I certainly are for Hull #509. You will find everyone on the forum very helpful. We may be camping in PA in just a few weeks as we work our way down from NY from NH. We have pretty much the same trailer. We do have the additional propane connections and the 30 amp convenience hookup. They don't make much of the 30 amp convenience hookup, but it is comes with a transfer switch to prevent using both hookups at the same time.

Overland, The Yellow wire I referenced was connected from the negative terminal on the battery and connected to the screw attached to the chassis. This wasn't connected on either end during my first attempt at migration to the bus bar. I haven't moved either the Solar port negative or the Solar controller negative. I don't know why either of those would cause the b01/601 error if they are still connected to the battery negative, but I agree that at least the Solar controller negative should be moved so that I can see the charging detail from the Solar controller. The Solar controller

I have attached a drawing that shows the wiring completed before failure of the Zamp Solar Controller b01/601 was observed. Hope this helps.Shunt wiring.docx

Will do

I ran into a problem today when I was doing final steps of the install of the Victron Smart Shunt. I disconnected the Yellow chassis ground cable at the battery and on the chassis ground bolt leaving it in case of any issues. I connected the new 4/0 gauge battery lug to the chassis ground bolt. The other end is attached to the bus bar. Unfortunately I didn't check the Zamp until after I flipped the breaker back on and when I did I was greeted with the b01 error code. I quickly flipped the breaker back to off and after a brief time thinking about what the problem might be, I reinstalled th

If you are talking about connecting the generator/inverter to your propane quick connect, then you really need a propane hose with 1/4 inch male QC fitting and the correct length of hose with the correct fitting for your generator/inverter. My Champion dual fuel uses a 1/4 inch male QC fitting too, so in my case I have a two ended hose with 1/4 inch male QC that I connect to a normal 1/4 inch QC hose that has the male and a female QC fitting. Naturally the length is determined by where you might want to have the generator/inverter or similar low pressure appliance to be located. In your cas

Here is the bus bar on the table top before the install.

I am making some modifications in my Victron smart battery shunt. I originally installed it inline just before the Xantrex inverter, but because the other wiring returns to the negative post of the battery on the side mount, I wasn’t seeing the current usage and missing the complete Victron picture. I needed a bus bar to connect to the main ground bar to see this draw. I purchased a Blue Sea 4 port bus bar and installed on PVC that I epoxied to the inside of the pantry fiberglass wall in the basement. I ran two additional 1/0 gauge battery cables with the appropriate lugs, one from the bus

The valve I was referring to is the bypass/isolate valve to remove the water source.

We had an error on our Truma this AM after changing it from ECO mode to COMFORT mode. The remote was flashing. I checked the external LED and confirmed the message to be the Truma circulation pump not having sufficient water, no prime. We are using our fresh water tank at this campground. It didn’t take long to realize that after I had sanitized the fresh tank, which requires bypassing the Truma, that I hadn’t turned it back on. We hadn’t used any hot water since arriving so hadn’t noticed. We turned the valve to inline and heard the water fill the Truma, but shortly after cycling the ou

Check the power cord behind the drawers below the sink. You will need to remove luan backing and will see the outlet and the plug. If you find the plug loose then I would zip tie the outlet.

This is the unit I purchased and plan to install too.

We have used the Wi-Fi ranger with campground Wi-Fi and with a Verizon Tether and also enabled failover too. It is a pretty impressive setup. I have had issues with disconnections because the iPhone needs us to "Trust" the connection. Recovery is to reconnect through the Wi-Fi Ranger GUI. I would order the Wi-Fi again. I believe the WeBoost is a no brainer, but because we have camped in some campgrounds in the NH White Mountains and the VT Green Mountains that have limited cell signal, I ordered an antenna from Wilson with more gain. I haven't replaced the antenna that came with the unit