Fargoman

I finally got around to adjusting the pitch of the two awnings today. Instructions were on pages 197 to 199 in the 2021 Legacy Elite 2 Standard Features manual. I wanted both awnings to be lower at the rear of the trailer so water would run off in that direction, and away from the entry door on the curb side. The curb side awning was already somewhat lower to the rear of the trailer, but I increased the pitch to lower it slightly more. The street side awning was pitched in the opposite direction, which didn't really matter since there is no door on that side, but I like symmetry, so I adjusted them to be the same. The adjustment is really easy, and you almost don't need to use a 17 mm wrench. With the awning fully extended, and lifting the awning arm slightly to relieve pressure on the adjusting cam, I was able to turn nut by hand (CW to raise, CCW to lower whichever arm you're adjusting). Like many mechnical tasks, it took longer to figure out how to do the job than to perform the job. I didn't need to adjust the elbow height of the hinged support arms, because they still retracted properly after adjusting the pitch.

The replacement zerk fitting did not solve the problem of the wet bolt accepting grease, so I submitted a ticket to Oliver. Jason responded quickly, saying that they would send a replacement bolt, and that I could replace the bolt myself, or have a local service facility do the work and submit a reimbursement claim to Dexter. Coincidentaly, two days earlier a friend had highly recommended a local family-owned RV service facility, so I opted to have them perform the work. When I went there to schedule the repair, they told me to bring the trailer by that afternoon so they could determine if the bolt was truly faulty, or just needed a more powerful grease gun than the mini-grease gun I use. The bolt was indeed faulty, and they had a replacement in stock (the one from Oliver had not yet arrived), so they set about replacing the bolt. It took close to an hour, but they only charged for half an hour of labor (work stopped for a while as everyone in the shop had to come inspect and drool over my exotic fiberglass trailer. A happy ending to a small, but nagging problem, and I now have a trusted local repair facility to turn to when things get above my pay grade. Attached is a photo of the offending bolt. I'm not sure if the wear is normal after only 3500 miles or indicative of a lack of sufficient grease.

Thanks for pointing that out Frank. In retrospect, knowing that there are two E-Z Flex links per side I should have looked further. I had seen an earlier post about zerk fittings that mentioned a total of 14 and figured that "Hey, I found the two hidden ones!"

I couldn't un-stick the zerk that wasn't accepting grease, and decided to replace it. When I removed the curb-side rear wheel to make it easier to get a ratcheting socket on the zerk, I discovered that there are 14 zerk grease fittings, not 12 as mentioned in my original post. With both wheels on I hadn't noticed the 'hidden' zerk on the bolt that attaches the E-Z Flex system to the subframe. I had assumed that bolt would have had a zerk in the bolt head like the bolts that attach the leaf springs to the E-Z Flex, like in John Davies photo above. I mention this with the hope that some other new owner realizes that there are two zerks that are not readily visible without removing a rear wheel or crawling under the trailer.

Seeing an Oliver in the West is definitely a rare event, but maybe I'm just easily excited. 2008RN, I live in Redding, CA. With my grown kids living in Portland, OR and Vancouver, WA I expect to be taking my Ollie on many camping trips in the Northwest. A Northwest Oliver rally is a great idea.

Regarding jacking one set of tires off the ground to relieve pressure on the suspension (using either floor jack or built in leveling jacks), is it OK to leave the front of the trailer supported only by the front leveling jack? There would be some slight angular force on the front jack by doing so. I hitched the trailer to my TV the first time I raised one set of tires off the ground just to be cautious.

We have the Furrion wireless backup camera, ordered as an option when we took delivery of our 2021 LE2 last September. The display is mounted on the windshield just above the dashboard, and with the brightness & contrast of the display maximized, I still find the display hard to see in most daylight driving conditions, when the view through the windshield is fairly bright. On overcast or rainy days when the view through the windshield is darker, the display brightness is acceptable. Has this been an issue for any of you?

They do exist! We finally saw an Ollie LE2 this afternoon while returning home from Vancouver, WA today. This was the first Ollie we have seen since taking delivery of our LE2 last September. We were heading south on Interstate 5 about 30 miles north of Eugene, OR, and the Ollie was northbound, around 12:30 PM. Any ideas who it might have been?

Thanks Bill, I'll try your suggestion before replacing the zerk.

Thanks to all who responded. I did jack the wheels on the curb side off the ground today to unload the suspension where two zerks weren't accepting grease. One zerk took grease, but one did not, so I will replace it to see if that solves the problem.

Thanks. Galway Girl. I enjoyed your post about your trip to the Oliver factory, and have bookmarked several Northwest campgrounds that you described.

While greasing the 12 suspension zerk fittings on our LE2 today, two of them would not allow any grease to be pumped in. I've had very limited experience with zerk fittings, and would appreciate any suggestions as to how to fix the issue.

We gravitated to Oliver because of the lack of pop-outs and build quality. This thing looks like a lot of leaks on wheels.

Greetings, Andy and Pam! I'm happy to see some more Northwest Ollie owners. Although we currently live in Redding, CA, my daughter and husband live in Salmon Creek, WA, and my son lives in Portland, OR. We expect to bring our Ollie up to your part of the world quite a lot in the coming years, and would appreciate suggestions for good campgrounds.

Thank you!

We have the propane quick connects on our 2020 LE2, and just purchased a Weber 1200 and an adapter kit. The Oliver video about the quick connect is vague about which position the lever is in when open or closed. We haven't used the quick connects yet, and the levers are currently parallel to the fitting, as they came from the factory. Is that open? I'm used to seeing levers on shutoff valves perpendicular to the pipe or fitting they are attached to.

After some more research online about awning adjustment, I think the 'elbow' adjustment is only done if the arms hit the awning casing when retracting, which is not happening on my awnings.

We have two Girard power awnings on our 2021 LE2, and as you can see in the photos, the pitch on the street side awning is lower in the front of the trailer than the rear. The curbside awning is pitched very slightly rearward. This is how they were adjusted when we took delivery - I didn't notice the difference until we were halfway back to Northern California. The instructions in the Girard manual for adjusting the pitch looks fairly straightforward, but I'm not sure what adjusting the elbow height accomplishes. My inclination (no pun) is to adjust the pitch on both awnings to be slightly lower towards the back of the trailer so rain would run off the awning in that direction, and on the curbside awning, not splash on the ground near the door. I'm aware that the awnings should not be left deployed in heavy rain. I would appreciate any suggestions as to the best way to adjust the awnings. This is our first experience with awnings on a trailer, having camped for the last 6 years in a teardrop trailer.

We have a 2020 RAM EcoDiesel with the tow package, 3.92 axle ratio. On our trip home to Northern California after taking delivery of our LE2 in September, the fuel mileage ranged from 16 MPG in hilly terrain with headwinds, to as much as 20 MPG at 65 MPH during level freeway driving.

I'm planning to use Rejex, rather than wax, on our LE2. How much Rejex is typically needed for one application? I'd like to know how much to buy. Thanks.

We took delivery of our LE2 Twin Bed model, hull number 894, on September 16th. We stayed at the Oliver site the first night, then on to David Crockett SP for one night, then three nights at Fall Creek Falls SP, TN. After torrential rains enroute to Fall Creek Falls SP, followed by three days of nearly constant rain (got to know the inside of the trailer really well), we bailed on our plans to continue eastward to Great Smokey Mountains National Park, where three more days of rain was forecast. We decided to head back to the Oliver mothership to have a couple of issues dealt with before wending our way westward to Northern California. Our screen door latch failed, a first according to Jason. I removed the catch so we could open the door without fear of being locked in or out. The latch was replaced and has since been behaving. One of the Andersen WDH frame clamps moved, allowing the attached chain to become slack. The problem was traced to a cross-threaded set screw, which gave the impression of being tightened enough, but it was protruding from the frame clamp much more than the set screw on the other frame clamp, which should have been a clue to the installer. The frame clamp was replaced with no issues since. Within a week of delivery, I noticed that the caulking around the rear streetside window had yellowed, while the caulking on all other windows was still pristine white. I assume that during production someone ran out of caulk and grabbed the wrong kind. While only being a cosmetic issue, it still bugged me, and I will re-caulk that window when all others need to be caulked. We have the Suburban water heater. Ten days after delivery, while opening the water heater door to turn the heater to electric mode, one of the sheet metal screws holding the door hinge fell out, apparently having been stripped during assembly at the factory or installation at Oliver. The missing screw allowed the forward part of the heater door to open almost half an inch. I felt fortunate that a gust of wind didn't rip the door off completely while underway. I used some white duct tape along the bottom edge of the heater door to act as a hinge, which held for the rest of the trip home. The apparent fix is to replace the missing screw with a larger one. Unrelated to an Oliver issue, I brought a TireTraker TT-600 TPMS system with us so we could have an easily installed TPMS system for the long drive home from Hohenwald. While marinating in the rain on our third day at Fall Creek Falls SP, I noticed that one of the trailer tires had gone from 55 PSI to 36 PSI overnight, with no obvious source of a leak. Rather than changing the tire in the heavy rain, I just inflated it to 70 PSI and checked it periodically the next day on the way back to Hohenwald. The tire held pressure, but I asked Jason to have the tire removed and check for the source of the leak. It turned out to be the TPMS sensor, and not an object in the tire. I replaced the leaking sensor with a spare (I bought 6 sensors), but it leaked audibly, no soap spray needed to find it. Next, I removed the sensor from the spare tire to put on the rolling wheel, and all was good. I will contact TireTraker to resolve the leaking sensor problem. Our Ollie got it's first bath today. While washing the roof on the streetside, I discovered that there were three loose stainless fender washers laying by the middle awning mounting bracket. Also, a few feet away there was a quarter inch chip in the roof gelcoat. Kind of disappointed in the quality control. I need to contact Oliver to find out how to fix the gelcoat chip. Other than those relatively minor issues, the Ollie is very comfortable and tows easily behind our RAM 1500 EcoDiesel, with no sway when passing or being passed by big rigs.

Corvus, there’s no leak under the sink. Topgun, after the first odor incident, I added happy camper brand black tank additive to the grey tank to see if that would help. Perhaps that’s not the right product, I will try the one you recommended. I am not sure from John’s diagram where the vacuum breaker is located, and if the gray tank vent goes out through the roof.

We took delivery of our LE2 on September 16th, and are in the Las Cruces NM area at a Harvest Host winery enroute home to Northern California. Twice now while traveling with partially full gray and black water tanks to our next destination, upon arrival we have discovered that the trailer has a terrible odor inside. The shut off valve near the base of the toilet was closed, so gray water has not backed up into the shower pan. There was no problem with the toilet. The source of the odor seem to be coming from the kitchen sink, because when we removed the cutting board, the odor was stronger. The only thing I can think of is that the water in the P-trap for the kitchen sink somehow got displaced while traveling on bumpy roads, and that would allow odor from the gray tank to get into the cabin, but this seems unlikely. Any ideas how to prevent this problem from happening? Obviously there are times when we have to travel to our next destination without having dumped the tanks.

Our policy for the LE2 we'll be picking up on September 16th costs $514 annually, through Good Sam affiliate insurance company National General. We also have Good Sam's Roadside Assistance policy. As a comparison, we have used Geico for all of our vehicles, including the recently-sold teardrop trailer, for many years. Geico's quote for insuring the LE2 was approximately $800 annually, and that was with their multi-vehicle discount.

Another toilet question: I have read that we should use RV/black tank-specific toilet paper. Is that necessary in your experience when using a black tank additive such as Happy Camper? According to Happy Camper, their product can properly 'digest' regular toilet paper.