Carl Hansen

Well, it's finished! The installation of the DC to DC charging system in now complete and operational. I first started the installation in the Oliver Elite I trailer (#924) and finished the installation with the Jeep. I'm generally a DYI guy, but this was a bit of a stretch for me. It's not that it was difficult, I stressed on doing something to the Oliver that would ruin it, especially penetrating the hull for the charging cables. That was a big concern. But with careful planning and a ton of help from this community, I was able to get this done. Special thanks to Coddiwomple (David) for his help, patience, and guidance. I first went out to his place to view his installation in his Elite I. It's amazing how different his wiring was in just two model years. Mine is a 2021, and David's is a 2023. It was a bit confusing for me at first so a second visit was called for. In the second visit, I pulled my trailer to his place and asked more questions and advice. That second visit really helped! Thanks again David! Here is a few pictures I took during the process: I followed David's idea of mounting the components on a board that I later installed in front of the street side wheel well. I used the buss bars to step down in size from 2AWG to 4AWG which was necessary to connect to the Orion XS. I think pulling the 2AWG wire was the toughest part of the installation. A shout out to my son-in-law who was there helping that day. Couldn't have done it without him! Upon examination of the hull, I realized that under the sink (above picture) the hull is only a single layer thick, not a double hull there. That made things a bit easier. There was little existinting space to run additional cables through the hull, so I modified the housing for the propane tanks just a bit. With the propane tanks and tray removed, it was easy access to the trailer font. With my oscillating saw, I cut out an addition piece of the propane housing to the left of the three existing cables. That gave me plenty of room to install two additional cable glands for the DC charging cables. The way the propane tank housing is constructed and attached to the hull, the small piece I removed does not compromise the integrity of the housing. The following pictures show the final hull penetration. With the cables pulled, I was able to finish connecting everything to the DC charger. I finished the umbilical cord that connects to the back of the Jeep. I used the Trailer Vision enclosure to protect the Anderson SB120 plugs. Onto wiring the Jeep. (Much easier) At the battery box, I used a KASS terminal extender to accommodate the fuse and the other cables. I ran the cable along the chassis and installed the Anderson connector in a Trailer Vision enclosure which allowed me to mount it directly to the rear bumper of the Jeep. With everything installed and attached the batteries at both ends (Jeep and Oliver), I plugged it in and tested the amperage. I was getting between 49 and 50 amps at idle. Now the next step is to road test this on a long trip. Can't wait. Very excited to always have full batteries after a long day driving. Thanks again to everyone who had a part in making this a success! Carl

Well, I pulled the trigger today and ordered all my DC charging parts. They will be coming in over the next week or so. I would like to extend a big thanks to all the members of this forum, who over the years, have helped me with many questions and concerns I would like to give a special thanks to Coddiwomple (David) who graciously invited me over to his shop to show me how he installed his DC charging in his LE1. It was extremely helpful to see first hand. He went beyond the mark by opening up his TV and trailer (including every access panel) and allowed me to photograph and video his trailer. He even went so far to give me copies of all his documentation and notes. It's people like David and many others that make this community such a great place to communicate and share. Thanks to everyone! Carl BTW... I just got notified by Highway Trailers in Salem that Oliver is sending them the Truma water heater parts replacement for the recall. There is hope!

I did and found some great tips in that video. They make a case for DC2DC charging as well. That video helped my wife better understand the value as well. Thanks!

Thanks! This is great. I am using 4 gauge wire. We're you able to 'push' the cable all the way back to the battery box area or did you 'pull' the cable using a fishing wire? I don't just know how much room there is in the belly to add additional cabling. Thoughts, suggestions? Carl

The 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubecon has a 220 amp 'smart' alternator. From what I understand, that should be sufficient for DC charging. That is an important consideration.

I have consider DC2DC charging for the last 4 years. I wanted to consider how we use the trailer before installing the DC2DC charging. We do longer trips and often stay at Harvest Host along the way. It's nice to pull into a dry camping spot with a full charge on the batteries. The solar does a pretty good job but not during the night and decreases effectiveness in bad weather. The following reasons made me decide to pursue DC2DC charging: 1. You got a guaranteed output of up to 700 watts, rain, night, it doesn't matter 2. Additional panels on the Elite 1 is not an option. DC to DC is like adding additional solar panels to the rig. 3. How about portable panels? Portable panels are heavy and do not store well. 4. Portable panels only work during the daytime. We are on the road most days. 5. Portable panels won't run the air conditioner. I do carry a portable generator with us which can run the air conditioner if necessary. 6. DC2DC is guaranteed output. It is going to work all the time. (Maybe a duplicate of #1 but I think it is worth mentioning again.) I think it depends on how you use your rig. If you always stay at places with shore power, maybe the DC2DC charging doesn't make sense. I believe the decision to install DC charging depends on your use model. It may not make sense for everyone. Carl

Thanks for the links! When I first began my research, I thought the 30A Orion would be the solution. Since then, with all the videos that I have watched, and what the lithium batteries are capable, it became clear that the 50A Orion was a much better solution. That is what is on my shopping list along with 4 gauge wire, etc. Your suggestion is yet another confirmation that the 50A is the right solution. Now if I can get past the worry of pulling all these wires properly and getting through the hull, I will pull the trigger on my shopping list. I can always find something to worry about! Carl

That would be amazing. I will send you a message.

This was great! This is just what I was looking for. Can you expand a bit on how you routed the cables back to the batteries? Did you use a fish cable or were you able to just "push" them through. This is a much better solution to running them outside underneath the chassis. Thanks!

Hi Guys! I need your help... I am about to attempt a DC to DC installation on my setup, a 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon and my 2021 Oliver Elite 1 (Hull #924). I need your guidance on how you routed the charging cables through the hull and then pull them back to the charger and the battery box. I have looked carefully but have not found an "easy" way to get the wires through the hull of the trailer. I was going to run the cables down the middle of the trailer in the recessed part of the hull and then somehow get them to the Victron Orion charger and then into the battery box for connection. I was hoping someone with much more experience could suggest the best way to route the cables on the trailer side with minimal drilling required. Thanks in advance! Carl

I submitted mine on February 2, and I have not heard a word from my Oliver RV shop in Salem. Called once, no update.

Those are great. That is what I use. Saves the knees!

Let’s seem to be a great product. Multiple people here seem to be using that brand.

I did the search before posting and did not come up with any of those threads you shared. Thanks for the help. This how the stainless steel McKillans look on the Oliver. Carl

Greetings! Has anyone ever tried using "quick connects" on your city and fresh water inlets? It seems it would make things a bit easier if you are moving campsites regularly. I think it would be straight forward on the city water inlet but there might be a problem on the fresh water inlet. I have noticed that after filling the fresh water there seems to be water that flows out after I disconnect the hose. Is that water that from the fill tube into the holding tank. Would that cause any siphoning effect of the fresh water if the rubber plug was not re-inserted? I use stainless steel quick connections from McKillans on my power washer. They make an amazing product. I was wondering if their garden hose quick connects might work on the Oliver water inlets. Thoughts? Carl