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Minnesota Oli

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Everything posted by Minnesota Oli

  1. Good Morning Yes it does require a neutral ground plug, with the adapter I use it is workable. I thought the fuel gauge and the lit front instrument panel were nice features also, but if it is not capable of running it's claimed max load from eco mode with out suffering a temporary low voltage it neglect's the purpose of a inverter style generator. I tried to politely tell Yamaha that in the long run they were going to lose a lot of costumers in the RV market by enticing them with the RV receptacle and then fail on performance. That is the problem when the bean counters have more input then the engineering and R&D departments in product development. I also included pictures to show the difference in physical size. Paul
  2. I was able to talk to Battle Born and was told that buss bars is there prefer or recommended method for installing multiple batteries even in a mobile application. So that was good to hear.
  3. I just want to share my experience that I had with the Yamaha EF22iS 2200 watt. I bought it for the same reasons you stated but was disappointed when I found that it could not start my easy start equipped AC unless it was left in full throttle mode. My older Honda 2000 watt had no problem doing it in eco mode. I went though all channels with Yamaha and they were of no help. What I understand is the Honda has a larger horse power engine even in the 2000 watt model. So the Yamaha lacks power to get the AC started from eco mode. So I bought the Honda 2200 and it works perfectly. Hope this help you with purchase of a generator.
  4. I have thought about this issue of isolating a battery from the rest in the group of four and what I would be up against. To get at the buss bar I would have to pull the star board that is mounted on top of batteries by removing two screws on each end that lock it down. Then remove the positive and negative terminal bolts and lift the star board from the batteries. Then remove the bolt of the positive terminal of the battery I want to isolate and slip a insulating material between the battery terminal and the buss bar. That should work but has not been tested yet. The Battle Born 100Ah GC2s have their terminals laid out in such away that when side by side or facing each other the negative terminal are all aligned with each other but at a different level then the positive terminals. So I believe the were designed for a buss bar application and they do cost slightly more the the standard configuration. So I need to make a call to Battle Born and confirm this.
  5. Hey John You know I neglected to question him about that, I had so many thoughts and question at the time of the call I failed to follow up on it. I had given brand and model info so he could check for capability and that is when he told my to unhook temp probe at the back of the Zamp control. He was also aware of the setting on the Progressive Dynamics charger board that needed to be changed. Paul
  6. Hi John I have all the stock charge controllers, the Zamp ZS-30A solar charger does have as selectable battery type on the display panel with LiFePO4 as a option. Battle Born did advised me to disconnect the temperature probe from the Zamp solar controller. The Progressive Dynamics Power Center charger has a selectable jumper on the board that needs to be put LiFePO4. Paul
  7. https://www.bluesea.com/products/2718/MaxiBus_Insulating_Cover_for_PN_2105_and_2126https://www.bluesea.com/products/2126/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Six_5_16in-18_Studshttps://www.amazon.com/Battery-Spartan-Power-Negative-Terminals/dp/B07MXQSNHR/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&hvadid=77859219137661&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&hvqmt=b&keywords=spartan%2Bcable&qid=1612200841&sr=8-5&tag=mh0b-20&th=1 Well I want to try to answer to this request. Its a project that requires you to cover a lot of ground so I decided to break it down to individual aspect of the project. So I am standing at the side of the Oliver looking at the open battery compartment. I see this maze of cables and I am thinking of a discussion on the Oliver Forum. It was suggesting that there could be a improvement to this maze of cables by installing bus bars, one positive and one negative inside the basement of the Oliver. This would allow the cables from the various components such as Zamp Solar Controller, Side wall solar Port, Progressive Dynamics Power Center, and the chassis ground to be routed to the relevant bus bar. With that done it would only leave the positive and the negative 4/0 cables leading to to the battery compartment from each perspective bus bar. With that said the only other cables that my set up has is the one that leads from the Victron BMV-712 battery monitor to the remote display. I also have a now unused wire that was for the temperature probe that was hook up to the Zamp solar controller. The service person at Battle Born advised to disconnect this at the Zamp solar controller, I did leave the unhooked wire in place for possible future use. I then went inside to determine the placement of the bus bars considering the number and lengths of cables that need to be relocated and how I was going to attach them in the Oliver basement. I was looking at the positive 4/0 cable coming in to the basement from the battery compartment then going to the main fuse block and then continuing on to the inverter. That is when I thought about swapping out the fuse block with the positive bus bar sense the 4/0 cable is already run and no need to make up positive 4/0 cables. It also had a mounting block already in place. This meant I could move the main fuse out to the battery compartment next to the positive battery post to better protect the wiring. This was another topic I remember following on the Oliver Forum, so much information to be had. I looked at how the various cables were run into both sides of the battery compartment and they had positive on one side and negative on the other. So it made sense with the wire lengths the way they were to try to find a spot to mount the negative bus bar in the compartment under the street side bed. I started looking for a place or a way to do it with out having to glue a block to the fiberglass. I noticed two 1/2" bolts that were used to mount the street side stabilizer to the frame. I used a 1/4" aluminum flat that was 6" X 14" long. I then drilled holes to match the stabilizer mount. I then had to put a slight bend about 5" from the end so the plate would run parallel to the wheel well. That is where I mounted the negative bus bar. When I pulled the cables back out of the battery compartment I was able to do it with out removing the terminal ends. Some I had to bend slightly to get them through the cable glands, but this saved me from having to mess around with installing new ones. All the wires turned out to be the right length except the positive wire from the remote solar port. I was able to shorten that wire where there was a inline fuse and add a ring terminal. The negative 4/0 cable that went from the battery to the inverter was then rerouted to the negative bus bar. The only cable I had to buy was a three foot 4/0 to go from the negative bus bar to the inverter.
  8. One possibility are the panels clean? You could try shore power to see if the battery is capable of hitting full that would eliminate the battery as the problem.
  9. I misspoke that it came out of a solid piece. Here are some pics to look at. I used what I had on hand. It was one piece that was 3 '' by 2'' and cut a 2 '' wide by 1 1/2 '' deep slot down the length of it. The other was 3 '' x 1 '' and cut a 2 '' wide by 1/2 '' deep slot down the length of it. I used a quantity of four 1/4 - 20 '' stainless steel socket head cap screw to fasten together. Then drilled four 3/8 '' hole through side wall, two per side to match the existing holes that were in the factory cross member. I reinforced the mount with stainless steel plate top and bottom because of the 3/8 '' through holes in the 1/2 '' wall of receiver.
  10. Thanks John I really appreciate the complement especially from you. I also appreciate the reminder of the use of safe practices around potentially dangerous areas. Especially when putting up pictures that the rest of the Oliver commuity will see, a person needs to show good example. Thanks again Paul
  11. If you notice the under side of the star board I have cut relief so when it is slid down over the pos and neg posts it also locks the four batteries in place. It truly feels like one large battery,they do not even wiggle. Then the tray does the rest. I will be watching for damage by the strap hooks but it truly acts as one big battery so I hoping it is not going to be a problem. The neg and pos terminal posts are made from 7/8 round copper with a pvc sleave pressed over the OD.
  12. Hi John - This receiver is aluminum and I fabricated it out of a solid piece. I wanted something that would mate up to the cross member that already had 4 holes drilled for the factory 1-1/4 inch receiver. So, my receiver has holes drilled through the length of the wall and I added 2 stainless steel plates at the bottom and top which the bolts are threaded into. The receiver sits at 17 inches and the cross member of the trailer is at about 14 inches, so plenty of room. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the old hitch. It consisted of 2 pieces of aluminum square tubing, 1 sliding inside the other with pins to secure. Now the 2 inch solid takes the place of them. The cross member was mounted on top which hampered you from pulling the spare tire cover off, so you had to remove the pins and pull the hitch before you could get to it. These were difficult because they would bind when pulling the hitch off. I mounted the cross member below the 2 inch so now no interference getting the spare cover off. The only negative is when you flip open the door to access the sewage pipes you have a little bit less room to reach in, but very do-able.
  13. We love our 1UP. My kid loves their rack for their ebike as well.
  14. Hey Ken, yes it is! This allows me to drill and tap the pieces. I used 1/2 in stainless steel bolts going through the frame and up into the 2X2. The cross member is from the existing receiver hitch. I pulled the plugs on the ends and inserted a solid piece of aluminum. I then bolted through them and into the 2X2 with stainless steel bolts.
  15. Went from 4 Trojan 6 Volt AGMs to 4 Battle Born 100Ah GC2s. Mounted a BMV-712 Victron in close proximity to the negative post of battery Mounted main fuse in close proximity to the positive post of battery Mounted main battery disconnect in close proximity to the positive post of battery Added a positive and negative bus bar and moved all cabling to inside the basement except for the 2 main 4/0 cables. (I was able to exchange main fuse with a positive bus bar using the same mounting area, then moved the fuse out to the positive post of the battery) I used bus bars to connect the 4 batteries in parallel A strip of flat PVC was used to insulate between bus bars
  16. Thanks for the warm welcome, Bill! I've appreciated your comments on the forums.
  17. Sharing a modification to the receiver hitch that allows access to the spare tire without removing any part of the hitch, up-sized the receiver to 2 in, and heightens security against thief. It may not look like it, but the access to the sewer outlets is still functional.
  18. Sharing my modification to bring mudflaps closer to protect everything beyond the wheel well.
  19. Hello all, We've been Oliver owners since August 2019 (new to us, Hull #475) and we thought it was finally time to introduce ourselves! We're a couple in Minnesota who have enjoyed a few trips so far within our state and we're excited to bring it out of the state after this winter. I've always enjoyed the creative discussions on the forums and it's helped me make informed decisions for my Oliver. I've spent the winter making some modifications on our Elite II which I'll share in future for those that might find it interesting to see! Happy camping, Paul and Mary
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