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Stranded

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Stranded last won the day on March 23 2021

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My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    220
  • Year
    2017
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite

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  1. I didn't have a choice, I live too far away from the factory, and my fiberglass skills aren't good enough to make a seamless repair. Thankfully, when my solar panels got hit, the weak point was the mounts, which is what bent, thus preserving the fiberglass, but all 4 mounts were too far gone to be easily straightened. Once I figured how to fix everything, it wasn't that hard, and didn't require that much patience. The tough part was coming up with the idea for the hollow bolt, and the decision to just tap and thread the plates themselves. If I had to do it over again, I could probably knock it out in about 4 hours maximum. Once you see the video, it'll all make sense.
  2. Yes, it is possible to add solid metal mounts between the hulls without cutting up the fiberglass, I know because I did it. My trailer came stock with the solar panels already attached. However, back in 2021, my solar panels got damaged and the mounts got bent. Thankfully, it was only the solar panels and their associated mounts that got damaged; the fiberglass was perfect. I attempted to take off the mount by unscrewing the bolts, but they just turned in place. I would have hoped the factory would have permanently attached the nuts to the underside plate, but they did not. I called the factory and spoke with someone (don't remember who, it was almost two years ago though) who advised the only way to get old mounts off was to either cut into the inner fiberglass hull to get a wrench on the nut, or to try and cut off the bolt from the top. Furthermore, I was advised to attach new mounts with hardware, I would still need to cut into the inner hull. I detested the idea of cutting into the inner hull, and so I found a way around it. I took off the MaxxFan which is only held on by four screws to its mount. This allows access to view the area between the hulls. You'll notice when you do this, the factory epoxied a plastic PVC spacer around the perimeter of the MaxxFan. You'll need to drill a hole in this and it will allow access to the space between the two hulls. I bought a cheap borescope off Amazon with a long extension wire. This allowed me to view the nuts and plates used by the factory. I used a piece of metal bar and duct taped a wrench to it. I was then able to insert the metal bar and carefully manuever the wrench around the nut. Then with a friend's help, he unscrewed the bolt from the top side. I had put some duct tape around the bottom of the wrench which thankfully stuck to all 8 nuts, allowing me to remove them (I put new duct tape on each time. Now, on my hull #220, which is a 2017 model, the factory had not permanently attached underside plate. In fact, they didn't even use a high quality set up, they only used some Fiamma awning metal plate spacer for each solar mount; it looked terribly pathetic, and they weren't even epoxied to the underside of the outer hull. They just fell down when the nuts were removed. To remove them, I duct taped a magnet to my metal bar and dragged them out one by one. Now, the dilemna was how to attach the new solar mounts without cutting up the inner fiberglass hull. Here's what I did: I sourced some 410 stainless steel that was a 1/4 inch thick. The factory had used screw and nuts for 10/24 threads, which results in a nut thickness of around a 1/4 inch. I used 410 stainless steel because it magnetic which would allow me to use a magnet to grab it if it wasn't in the right place. I cut the stainless steel to around 2 or 2 1/2 inches wide and around 3 to 4 inches long. This mimicked the Fiamma metal plates the factory used, except my steel was thicker and stronger. I then paid a machinist to drill and tap the metal plates for 10/24 threads. I also added an eye bolt and put a string through it so I could easily drag the plate back if necessary. You can see the plates in the above picture. You can also the Fiamma plates the factory used on the middle right of the picture. To get the plate in position between the hulls was tricky to figure out, but ended up being easy to attach once I figured it out. I put two pieces of string down each hole for each mount. Prior to putting the string down, I attached a piece of metal. I then inserted my magnet on the metal rod, which connected to the metal on the string, and I was able to drag the string to the opening I made at the MaxxFan. I then threaded the string through the holes in the metal plate. I then dragged the strings from the top of the outer hull, which put the plate right underneath the old holes for the old mount. To attach the mount, I took a 10/24 threaded brass screw and drilled it out so it was hollow inside. I then put the string through the hollow bolt. While pulling tight on the strings, I threaded the hollow brass bolt into the stainless steel plate. Once that was attached, I used screws and attached the other side of the plate. I then removed the hollow bolt and attached another regular bolt. I know I'm not describing this very well, but I thankfully made a few cellphone videos when I did it back. I never bothered to make it into a youtube video, but I have Saturday and Sunday off, and I'll turn my old footage into a quick clip and upload it Sunday. Once you see the video it'll all make sense. The end result I was able to attach new solar panels and mounts, with underlying metal plates, all without drilling into the inner fiberglass hull like the factory told me to do. The only cutting I did was to the spacer around the MaxxFan, which is easy to repair and is completely hidden by the MaxxFan trim. Anyway, I'll post the link to my Youtube video on Sunday.
  3. No, it's generally not humid where I live, I'm next to the Antelope Valley. Also, I don't plug my trailer into shore power. However, when I start camping again in late February and March, I'll probably get a small dehumidifier for when there is electrical at a campsite. That being said, I usually camp where there is no services.
  4. Much better, thanks! Any way you can fix the pictures in the first post as well?
  5. And for some reason, my pictures are still getting turned 90 degrees to the right.... oh well.
  6. I meant to give an update sooner, but life got crazy like usual. Leaving the cabinets open seemed to stop condensation inside the light fixture; however, it should be noted that was without anyone sleeping inside the trailer. We also had some rain recently, and I did not observe any leaks either. To confirm there were no leaks, I left out paper towels and I also removed the rear driver's side speaker. This allowed me to access the area between the attic and my troublesome storage area; no moisture detected. I'm therefore pretty confident there are no leaks, at least from the rear Oliver light. I won't get a chance to camp in the trailer until the end of February, so till then I won't know of my condensation problem is completely resolved, but till then, it's looking promising! Thanks everyone for your help! I'll update again after we go camping next month.
  7. Will do on the blue shop towel below the third tail light in the attic, its definitely worth checking.
  8. That sounds like a good theory! I'll be at the trailer this Thursday and again on Saturday. I'll leave that cabinet open and see if there's any difference. I'll give a report back on Saturday.
  9. Also, for some reason my pictures were rotated 90 degrees. I'm not tech savvy enough to know why. They look OK in my phone's photo gallery.
  10. This problem only started near the beginning of 2022, and a year later, I still can't figure it out. I get condensation build up inside of the driver's rear light fixture; right above my head when I sleep. You can see the rust spots inside of the light. The glass dish/cover will fill with water/condensation and then drip out. At first I thought it was because that's right where my head was breathing towards; however, I haven't slept in my trailer in a few months, but everytime I hang out in it, I get the same condensation in the same light fixture. I put a plastic container of Arm & Hammer Moisture Absorber, but after a couple of weeks, it's dry. I altered the placement of the moisture absorber to different locations, but all condensation still goes to the same light fixture. I know it's not a leak because it occurs in dry weather and rainy, and because I inspected the cabinet with the wires that feeds the electricity to that light fixture. The channel the wires run through in the fiberglass is bone dry. I put multiple q-tips in there but don't show any moisture indicative of a leak coming from anywhere else, or condensation following a path to that location. In short, I'm stumped why condensation is only attracted to that particular light fixture.
  11. I'm sure this has been asked before, but I can't find a thread on it. I observed in some old 2008 pictures on Flickr that Oliver used to make what appeared to be molded fiberglass storage bins to be inserted in the various under seat access areas. See link below: https://flic.kr/p/4WogNX I had some questions about them: Does anyone know why this was discontinued? For those that have/had them, how did they hold up? Did the weight crack or break the fiberglass lip they hung from? Thank you!
  12. Fantastic mod! I was actually planning on doing the exact same thing to avoid losing water when boondocking. I also wanted to add another two valves, the hot water into the cold line, and then the cold line into the tank, in order to circulate hot water through all the pipes to prevent freezing pipes when camping in freezing weather. Preferably with a temperature sensor to activate the circulation valves opening when the street side pipes shows a 36 degrees temperature reading.
  13. That's better than what they told me, they didn't even offer a $400 charge for the mod, just that they no longer did it. I probably would have still been tempted to have the mod done for $400; having the factory cut open the water tank means they're responsible for replacement of the water tank if they mess it up. However, I can't justify a trip back to Tennessee from California.
  14. If I’m seeing the pictures correctly, it looks like Oliver is ignoring the use of the Zamp rails and just through-bolting the panels like they did on the older Legacy panels.
  15. Those rails require special nuts with springs attached to them to use those rails:
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