Stranded

I'm sure this has been asked before, but I can't find a thread on it. I observed in some old 2008 pictures on Flickr that Oliver used to make what appeared to be molded fiberglass storage bins to be inserted in the various under seat access areas. See link below: https://flic.kr/p/4WogNX I had some questions about them: Does anyone know why this was discontinued? For those that have/had them, how did they hold up? Did the weight crack or break the fiberglass lip they hung from? Thank you!

Fantastic mod! I was actually planning on doing the exact same thing to avoid losing water when boondocking. I also wanted to add another two valves, the hot water into the cold line, and then the cold line into the tank, in order to circulate hot water through all the pipes to prevent freezing pipes when camping in freezing weather. Preferably with a temperature sensor to activate the circulation valves opening when the street side pipes shows a 36 degrees temperature reading.

That's better than what they told me, they didn't even offer a $400 charge for the mod, just that they no longer did it. I probably would have still been tempted to have the mod done for $400; having the factory cut open the water tank means they're responsible for replacement of the water tank if they mess it up. However, I can't justify a trip back to Tennessee from California.

If I’m seeing the pictures correctly, it looks like Oliver is ignoring the use of the Zamp rails and just through-bolting the panels like they did on the older Legacy panels.

Those rails require special nuts with springs attached to them to use those rails:

Thank you much for the pictures! I kept getting thrown off by the new rails on the Zamp solar panels. See below:

Curious question, I know. I recently got some newer Zamp panels for my trailer, which will take them from 200 watts to 230 watts. On my 2017 trailer, the two older style Zamp Legacy style solar panels were attached with aluminum angle bars on the sides and they were screwed together where they butted up to each other. On the newer Zamp panels, they have have special mounting bolts that go into a recessed area around the perimeter of the panels. For the portion of the panels that butt next to each other, I'm wondering how the factory joins them together: do they simply drill longer holes through the recessed valley on both panels and then through bolt? or do they use a piece of flat aluminum and still utilize the Zamp special mounting hardware by having them both mount to an aluminum bar? If someone with a newer trailer could send me a picture of the underside of the solar panels, I'd sure appreciate it. Specifically where the two panels butt up next to each other. I'm just curious to see how the factory mechanically connects them before I start drilling holes in my panels. Thanks!

Please let us know if they'll do this modification for you. I was driving through Tennessee a few months ago and the service agent I spoke with said they no longer did this mod. Needless to say, I was a bit disappointed.

We made our reservation with the Recreation.gov app. The kids loved this place.

I know Camarillo well! I have an ex-fiancé from there, but that was almost 2 decades ago; I grew up in the San Fernando Valley, so Camarillo was a hop, skip, and jump away. I’ll actually be in Ventura on Tuesday to go deep sea fishing with my dad. His favorite boat is the Aloha Spirit with Channel Island Sport Fishing, and they had some openings. There’s some beautiful camp grounds in California, but it’s best to get a reservation if you want a spot for the weekend. So far, our favorite has been Plaskett Creek campground in Big Sur.

Thanks! I've read the forum posts about the fix, and I have watched the Youtube video of the spin weld of the female fitting being added to the top of the water tank so a water pick-up tube can been added from on top. I just don't have the courage to do the spin-weld myself. We do have a road trip planned to visit my mother-in-law in Chattanooga Tennessee this June, so I'm hoping to make a detour to Hohenwald and have them do the spin-weld to the water tank. The plumbing I'll do myself as I I prefer the use of Uponor style water fittings over the Pex-B style clamps used by the factory. All I need is the spin-weld of the female fitting added to the top of the tank.... I'm hoping the service department returns my phone call this week so I can schedule the day in June to have them add the female fitting.

These 2 little guys fit on the little bed, but I’m betting they’ll out grow it two years. Right now though, they’re having a blast!

We bought a used 2017 Oliver Elite 1 last year, literally like new, never used. It had all of the options I wanted, with exception of missing the tankless water heater. It also came with the WiFi extender, which I wouldn’t have gotten. We’ve had quite a few good camping trips with it, it fits our small family of 4 well so far, but will likely be too small for us in a couple years when the kiddos get bigger. Haven't had occasion to use the A/C yet, and I also removed the microwave because we didn’t use it and I wanted the storage. Had to make a few repairs already: the Atwood heater control board got water damaged; replaced with a Dinosaur control board. The water drain line got clogged with plastic shavings; cut it out and replaced with an Uponor style ball valve (larger diameter fitting). The middle galley drawer came loose during transit, ripping out the four 1/2 inch screws that secure it to the track; replaced with 3/4 long screws and some wood glue. Currently use painters tape to hold the drawers closed while traveling; still trying to devise a better long term solution. Also had an Andersen D ring fail; replaced with a stainless one. The water pump doesn’t draw from the bottom of the water tank, and I have to lift the nose when at 25% capacity; I’ll resolve that problem later. Otherwise, we’re having fun with our little trailer! We had ordered a Casita (and still need to cancel our order), but this is the same size and floor plan we wanted, only much nicer. Looking forward to bumping into the rest of you on the road! Ben

I had the same thing happen to me. Elite 1 as well with the Andersen. It happened while driving Highway 1 to Big Sur. My thought process was I didn’t use a crescent wrench to tighten the threads, and after so many hours, it just unscrewed itself from the vibrations. I bought a similar sized stainless steel coupler at Home Depot in Paso Robles. I use a crescent wrench to snug it up as part of my pre-travel checklist.