rideandfly
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Posts
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Posts posted by rideandfly
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Happy Flag Day!!!!!!!!!
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13 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
Not sure if everyone will be able to open this link, it’s an OTT post on LinkedIn about their new windows.
9 hours ago, Patriot said:A cool teaser Mike, that clip is also on the Oliver FB page. I learned yesterday from Oliver Service, the new tilt out or “awning style’ windows are manufactured by Lippert, and are tinted bonded/insulated glass. The really good news according to service is the new style windows will allow for a retrofit on existing Olivers. Pricing has yet to be determined.
They are really sharp looking for sure!Nice.
In a previous camper we had windows that could be opened while it was raining, they were very nice, but I like the glass windows Oliver is using even better. Believe some of our windows in #75 might be a different size than late model Ollies, but really like the looks of the new windows.
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Mike,
Beautiful installation.
I have been wondering what I would do if our 10 year old Dometic three way quits, your installation is a good one. Went back looking over the information shared by Try2Relax, MountainOliver, Geronimo John, Ty J and rideadeuce, really appreciate their post, too.
Thanks for posting!
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3 hours ago, MAX Burner said:
16MAY25 -- 0634, Casablanca settled in at Pancho Villa SP near La Paloma, Old Mexico.... Magnus pulling the first watch:
What a neat looking campsite! Hope everyone has a great time!!!!!!!!!
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3 hours ago, ScubaRx said:
It does sound as if you’ve had good luck with eTrailer. I wish my only experience with them had been as good. I ordered a bread new Maxxfan from them because it was a few dollars cheaper than Amazon.
My MaxxFan came from Amazon without issues.
Question, on your disc brake installation, was the electric over hydraulic actuator from Dexter?
I just found your reply to John Davies with information on disc brake parts needed for upgrade during 2015:
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3 hours ago, ScubaRx said:
It does sound as if you’ve had good luck with eTrailer. I wish my only experience with them had been as good. I ordered a bread new Maxxfan from them because it was a few dollars cheaper than Amazon. It was bad right out of the box. Not only would they not take it back, I had to deal with the factory for warranty service. It took over a month to get it all sorted. I won’t be fooled again.
Yep, I have had a good experiences dealing with them in the past, but that's what I like about this forum, we are hearing everyone's experience so folks here can make a well informed decision on who to buy from.
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On 5/12/2025 at 10:22 PM, jd1923 said:
eTrailer has always been good with customer service. I try to buy from them whenever they are competitive in price.
21 hours ago, Patriot said:Bill,
The only draw back with Etrailer is they do not use an “RMA system” aka return merchandise authorized. It appears the buyer pays always shipping on returns.
I have had the same experience with Etrailer that jd1923 has had, received good service in the past, but I hate to see the troubles Galway Girl is having, too.
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1 hour ago, DanielBoondock said:
Great tip thanks! I was wondering about a central location that would get both sides, that ‘attic’ would be one with that vent installation you did.
So humidity is only a cold weather issue, not a hot weather one in a humid climate? This is really the only issue that bothers me. We restored a century old house and I learned much about building construction; moisture is the bane of any dwelling and must be avoided, even in a no/low wood design like the Oliver
Thanks! I’ll check those out -
Dan,
We try not to camp where AC is needed in the summer. Head to higher elevations where AC is not needed.
Speaking of our home and humidity, I sealed our home's crawlspace and started running a de-humidifier all summer where the HVAC Ducting supplies the home's cooling. Keeps the crawl space around 45 to 50% humidity. When the crawl-space was not sealed and vents open, sometimes HVAC ducting would drip with condensation in the summer.
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There has been several other post about humidity issues when camping with Olivers. Normally when we camp in temperatures cold enough to freeze the basement plumbing when using a portable heater, it's only for a couple of days and we don't even de-winterize Ollie making use of the campground's showers. When camping in the South East in the winter, sometimes we have humid weather.
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16 hours ago, DanielBoondock said:
- Now about that double hull ...
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To be honest initially (many years ago) this turned me off. Thinking of building engineering it's actually a bad design, as it creates three climate zones. Inside, between hulls, and outside. This results in the likely hood of condensation in between hulls, which they have to mitigate by having breaters. A house, for example, has a single vapor barrier, the Ollie has two which is the wrong way to go about it. With your house there's little possibility of condensation forming as there's just that one barrier.
But does it really matter? I'm curious to find out if owners have seen this as an issue, and at any rate if I'm in a humid climate a small dehumidifier could be placed in between. Inelegant solution but sometimes you have to do that. Anyhow, one benefit is that the three zones should help with keeping the trailer cool/warm as there's a buffering zone between the two.
So on physical design, size, design language, features, practicality, aerodynamics it wins hands down. Now about that price ...😅
In the winter when heating with a portable heater we use 99% of the time, we find condensation between the hull in the rear section (in our experience), if a de-humidifier is not used. We use a small de-humidifier in the rear upper storage "Oliver Sign" area and another one on the kitchen stove top area to resolve this. Checked other areas between the hulls and did not find condensation present.
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Glad it did not turn into something worse!!!
Etrailer folks are good to deal with. I plan to continue packing our Ollie’s bearings, replacing seals and inspecting brakes/hardware. A few here have the disc brake upgrade that is very nice.
Happy to hear you were able to get everything fixed without breaking down on the side of the road and having to deal with that.
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18 hours ago, GlacierGirl said:
we greatly appreciate the torque/power.
Agree, We like the low RPM torque the Toyota 3.4L twin turbo produces for towing.
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"XPLOR" looking beautiful!
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On 5/6/2025 at 11:20 AM, jd1923 said:
Bolts are bolts and there are SAE (inches) and Metric (mm) bolts in multiple grades. I would assume those bolts are Grade 5 SAE (but could be metric). Measure the diameter which is likely 1/2" +/- and check this table for torque. I saved a picture of the table for convenience and the full PDF (good thing to have a printed copy in your truck or OTT Manual). The PDF also has a metric bolt torque table bottom of page.
I always use torque tables from a reputable company, like this one from Fastenal, and I never take the time to check what each manufacturer states for standard bolts they merely purchase for their products (except something like a fine-thread crankshaft bolt where it really matter).
It appears that the installer for your Anderson was not concerned with torque settings and will be much better when you set it back an inch and torque properly.
Torque-Tension Reference Guide - Fastenal.pdf 135.33 kB · 5 downloads
The Anderson clamp bolts are Grade 5 5/8X11 UNC (coarse) threads.
This is from Anderson's installation guide https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvY0iopu7rUstsA_7XouHvCkT3Abs192/view
"4-5. Make sure all brackets are clamped tightly — we recommend at least 75 ft-lbs of torque. If needed, you may torque
the brackets up to 90 ft-lbs, as long as it does NOT compress the frame.
IMPORTANT: Some lighter frames may begin to compress if torqued too high, so be aware of your frame’s capabilities."To be sure, get a torque recommendation from Oliver on how tight they want to see the clamp bolts on the aluminum frame.
Anderson currently supplies a saddle that rests on the top and bottom of the frame for the clamp top and bottom bolts to help secure the frame clamp. I cannot find this part on their website, but they said they will send me a parts diagram showing the part, will pass it along to everyone here when received.
Just received this from Anderson:
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2 hours ago, routlaw said:
This is the first I have heard of being able to use never lube bearings. I do have the 5200 lb axles just by luck as Oliver was out of the 3500 lb axles when building mine but did have some 5200 lb units. Is it possible to simply replace bearings on my setup with the never lubes or are their more complicated mods one has to do? Also while on this subject what is the advantage of adding more springs for a trailer that will never be carrying the max load? Seems to me this would make for a much stiffer ride for the trailer vs the 4 leaf springs. But what do I know:)
Thanks
We have 5200lb axles with 5 leaf spring packs on our LE-2 #75, probably like your Ollie. Some folks here have had one leaf of the Dexter 4 leaf spring pack (3500lb) to break, covered in another thread. Not aware of any of the Dexter 5 leaf spring packs having issues, yet.
Here's the 12" brake drum on our 5200 pound axle with "Me-Pack" 🙃 axle bearings, I will continue packing my bearings so I can inspect brakes, drums and bearings during service. A few here have upgraded to disc brakes, very nice modification!
Here's the original 5 leaf Dexter spring pack on our #75 Ollie 5200lb axle and spare Dexter 5 leaf pack before installing bronze bushings:
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Could this be the reason for our confusion? Rotated CRM's screen shot 180 degrees, white neutral is on top and green ground is on the bottom.
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It's been several years since we replaced our PD controller, but I still have photos where you can see the upper green and lower white wires connected before and after installation.
Here's our original PD controller on our 2015 LE2:
New controller for installation:
Installed new controller:
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Nice looking rig!
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Really like the new TV! Looks like matching colors with XPLOR, too!
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Happy Easter!!!!!!!!!!
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22 minutes ago, Frank C said:
here’s a more detailed post of the full modification I did, with links to all the hardware used.
Frank,
Believe your first post in this thread is what I copied to improve our Ollie #75.
Thanks,
Bill
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On 6/27/2022 at 7:11 AM, Frank C said:
After a bit of searching I did find this white silicone edge U seal trim. I’m going to order this and give it a try to replace the caulking the next time I remove the towel holder. This should fit on the edge all around the perimeter of the molded plastic towel holder.
uxcell Edge Trim U Seal Extrusion, Silicone White U Channel Edge Protector Sheet Fits 0.5-2.5mm Edge 3Meters/9.84Ft Length
Occasionally need access under the sink. Thanks for the link.
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On 11/13/2024 at 11:44 AM, srthomsen said:
Mark Knopfler and Emmylou Harris
All The Road Running (album)
Speaking of Mark Knopfler, always like to listen to him with the late Chet Atkins:
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Always liked this version of "The Rain Song" by Jimmy Page and Robert Plant:
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Can I tow an Oliver LE2 with a 2006 SR5 Tundra Double Cab?
in Towing an Oliver
Posted
Here's some stock Tundra HP/Torque differences.
2006 Tundra 4.7L: 271HP@ 5400RPM 313 FT/LBS @ 3400RPM
2020 Tundra 5.7L: 381HP @ 5600RPM 401FT/LBs torque @ 3600RPM
2022 Tundra 3.4L twin turbo/non-hybrid: 389HP @ 5200 RPM 479 FT/LBS @ 2400 RPM
I have not towed with the 4.7L engine, it has lower HP/Torque compared to the two later Tundra engines. The 5.7L and 3.4L Tundra towed Ollie fine for us.
https://www.autopadre.com/horsepower-and-torque/toyota-tundra