rideandfly

We camp on many campsites that are not level. Always put the level blocks under wheels on low side leveling Ollie (we use Camco Level Blocks) and chock the wheels on the opposite side. Then before jacking Ollie's hitch off of the ball, place the tow vehicle in neutral letting the trailer settle on the level blocks and chocks, next place TV in park and jack hitch off of ball without much movement.

Not sure if this is the exact model EZflex system Oliver installed on your Ollie. Installed a K71-653-00 EZ Flex system on our Ollie several years ago. Here's this kit and part descriptions/numbers in the following dexterpartsonline link. Complete kit prices are lower on Amazon. Individual Dexter parts can be purchased at most trailer supply stores. I damaged at least one bronze bushing during installation, extras are helpful. 🙂 If you order parts on-line, Etrailer has been good to deal with in the past. http://www.dexterpartsonline.com/product/K71-653-00 https://www.amazon.com/Dexter-K71-653-00-Complete-Suspension-Kit/dp/B01HOAGBHO

Really like using the orbital buffer on Ollie and our other vehicles. Never had time to do a good detailing job on our vehicles, until buying the buffer. Just finished waxing Ollie’s tow vehicle yesterday. I’m still in the weekend warrior category, but slowly learning about detailing. 🙂

Our original 5200lb axles & springs (5 leaf) on our 2015 LE2 have not given us any trouble, believe Scuba/RX said there have been no failures with these springs reported on Ollies. We try to avoid rough roads as much as possible and go slow over railroad tracks. One time in Montana we came to a construction zone and was directed to a temporary road. It was terrible (we drove really slow), so terrible three of the four AC mounting bolts broke in a another camper before Ollie. Should have turned around and found the long way around, my fault.🙃 Should try what MaxBurner tried, if memory serves, riding in Ollie with my Wife driving the TV to see how good or bad the ride is in Ollie. 🙂

Initially it looked complicated, but after working on the first shade, it was not. Like Mike said, be patient. 🙂

During a service visit to Oliver a couple years ago, talked to one of their detail guys and he gave me a sample of their buffing compound, at that time they were using Buff Magic, a Shurhold product. Tried it out on Ollie's roof last fall with good results before waxing. Still using Surhold orbital buffer (weekend warrior equipped) 🙂 and started using their compound/wax products last fall. Gloss meter could go in the same drawer with my digital thermometer. 🙂 Gloss Meter: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=gloss+meter&crid=23MK7D73P1HXV&sprefix=gloss+meter%2Caps%2C117&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 Buff Magic: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=buff+magic+compound+marine&crid=1DS30K3AQJJBI&sprefix=magic+buff%2Caps%2C103&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_3_10

Impressive video! Really like his three step process, results, and gloss meter.

Yep, Pre-Flight aircraft inspections have saved my bacon more than once. Ollie cross member inspections can be made easy with a telescoping inspection mirror during the walk around before towing. Still need to inspect all welds a few times a year using a creeper, too. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=telescoping+inspection+mirror&crid=3GPS6IC729535&sprefix=telescoping+inspection+mirror%2Caps%2C133&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

John, Hate to be a Monday morning Quarterback, but did you add Coriolis Force?

Like my Grandchildren say, Sweet!

Was your Ollie a LE2 prototype? Wonder if the older Legacy Elites had the same 1X2 tube crossmembers.

At least 3 that we are aware of.

Just my opinion, Agree, too much concentrated stress on the doubled cross-member welds. Load needs to be distributed to additional cross-members (one way to do it), especially for those doing overland type camping. We probably have the lightest LE2 with ready to camp weights of 4900 to 4950 pounds running under 50psi in the tires with 99% of travel on paved roads and empty water tanks. We still had a weld to crack. I am not a mechanical engineer, just lots of experience in industrial machine rebuild and manufacture, before retirement.

Just returned from a road trip looking at Patriot's 2020 LE2 Ollie Hull #634 with the later frame compared to our original frame on our 2015 LE2. There are some differences on the newer Ollie compared to our 2015 Ollie #75, but the newer Ollie still has the doubled channel cross-member under the hot water heater area. The newer Ollie has more angle replacing some of the cross-member channel when compared to the older Ollie, but my older Ollie has angle cross-members over the axles, too. You can also see on the 2020 frame the inverted suspension saddle (my description) over the main frame giving a jack location that the older 2015 frame does not have extended as far for a jack location. Aluminum channel cross-members on both Ollie's appear to be the same size. 2020 LE2 Ollie's cross-member doubled and stitch welded under the water heater: 2015 LE2 Ollie's cross-member doubled and stitch welded under the hot water heater, you can also see the cracked weld in some of these photos, plan to have the crack repaired tomorrow: If you look at the doubled channel cross-member in this photo of the older LE2 Looks like a downward bow, probably found on most Ollies, I did not look at this on the 2020 Ollie. Would probably need a straight edge to measure the downward bow. Downward load on the doubled cross-member that is cracking welds.

That would give us all a chance to go out to eat, too? 🙂

David, Does your Ollie have any doubled cross-members? Thanks, Bill

The added piece of channel is only stitch welded (doubled) onto the channel welded to the mainframe on our Ollie. The doubled piece could be removed by cutting the stitch welds off with a 4" grinder. One side is stitch welded on the bottom and the other side is stitch welded on the top to the other channel. To give more strength additional cross-members could be welded on (added) in different areas, if needed. This has me wondering why the original cross-member was doubled when all others were not. I have not inspected the campers with new stye frame like Patriot's, but guessing none of their cross-members were doubled. Hope someone will let us know that has the new style frame without telescoping hitch tube.

Thanks, Another friend here thinks it may be some bad welds. Will see how the repair goes Friday.

It might take longer than normal for an answer if your question has to go to engineering.

The weld cracked on our Ollie where the cross member was doubled under the hot water heater. Scheduled to have the crack welded on Friday. Question, would doubling the crossmember material create more stress on the welds due to less flexibility?

jd1923's following thread about a crossbeam weld break posted earlier in this thread, just wanted to re-post so it is not missed, jd1923 hope you don't mind:

Will be interesting to see Oliver's solution. Started looking at this yesterday, there is 11" between the failed weld crossbeam and next crossbeam to the front on #75 LE2. The crossbeam behind the crossbeam with failed weld is over 13". The same size and length of aluminum 6061 channel could be welded equal distance between the crossbeam with failed weld and crossbeam to the front to reinforce this area with rubber sandwiched between the channel and fiberglass like the original channel. Probably not needed, but the same could be done between the next beam to the rear, too. Just a thought.

David, Thanks, We only use de-humidfiers when we're camping and don't have power in the hangar to run them while Ollie is stored. Can't give you a good reading on how long it takes to fill the tanks while camping because I always dump them when they are less than full. The 5 day number sounds right! Bill

We store Ollie in an airplane hangar with one side open in the hangar (no power in the hangar) leaving the bath and Maxxair vents open (not running), unless wet weather is moving in and then close the vents temporarily until the weather has passed. We also keep the refrigerator and bathroom doors open with open boxes of baking soda in the refrigerator and camper. We like the Pro Breeze de-humidifier, too. While camping sometimes condensation can be found between the hulls on the inside of the outer hull around the rear and Oliver sign area. Decided to use two Pro-Breeze de-humidifiers while camping placing one in the overhead compartment next to the Oliver sign and one on the kitchen counter. Just made this modification last week, decided to install two vents on the bulkheads next to the rear Oliver sign to allow a little more air flow between the hulls attempting to reduce condensation. Will see how it works.

Fine article. Coincidentally thinking about why Ollie is so pleasant to camp in this morning while getting ready to tow Ollie. The Oliver brothers had a great vision on what a camper should be!