Boudicca908
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Posts
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Posts posted by Boudicca908
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You won’t believe this…. Here I am, snug in a campground with power (not exactly boondocking), using my space heater to bring the temperature up above 45, and then I made a mistake! I started to make hot water with my induction burner. Yup. Lost all power to my outlets. It flipped one 15amp breaker. I can’t get the GFI outlet to reset (that’s the one that the service center halfway jerked out of the wall under the dinette) — but it was working, and I can’t flip the 15amp breaker back on.
Tonight it’s supposed to be pretty cold. So instead of checking out the environs, I’m going to be trying to figure this out today. Bummer.
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On 9/6/2023 at 12:41 PM, Mike and Carol said:
Ralph’s Lake State Park
I ended up changing my reservation from Bakers Hole (dry camping) to Rainbow Point, Gallatin NF in MT. This gained an electrical connection (no water connection, but I already winterized). Driving in, the rain turned to sleet. I’ll be happy using my space heater in the morning!
I have weak cell service here, so no photos to share today, but I’ll try to post some later. This NF cg seems nice, but a warning: the road in was severely washboarded — slow going. I think I was going about 5 mph; no contents out of place when I landed. There’s a lake, and footpaths to access it from each cg loop.
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Yay! Another meetup with Kim & David!
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An Oliver Elite 2 from Tennessee, parked in Loop B with a great view of the Spearfish Formation “Red Beds”!
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I’m interested in knowing more about the type of equipment that OTT owners prefer for traveling. I’m out of practice, but I want to learn more and make use of it on the road. I have no mobile equipment at this time.
73 — KN4NBV
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3 hours ago, dewdev said:
How did you add the circle?
Thank you! This is helpful!
Regarding editing… In an iPhone, you can can add text or highlights and draw on photos by using:
“Edit” then choosing the pen (and a good contrasting color) … like this.
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12 hours ago, dewdev said:
I could not find which fuse under the dinnette was for the CO/Propnae detector so I contact OTT.
I was told by OTT that the CO/Propane detector is connected to the LP fuse in my 2018 Ollie.
I couldn’t find mine either (not under aft dinette seat), so I also contacted OTT. Mike said it’s under the street side twin bed in my 2022 Elite II. I haven’t pulled up the mattress yet, my day was full and I’m moving tomorrow. Will be looking for it in the next couple of days though.
My CO/LP alarm is mounted on the fore dinette seat, so this seems odd to me…
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UPDATE:
Since my last post, my CO/LP alarm has gone off many times. The propane tanks have been off the entire time. It went off 2x the week of 8/20, then a week of bliss, and then the week of 9/3 it’s gone off 5 out of 7 days. I’ve been sleeping with my windows cracked, for fresh air; one of those nights there was campfire smoke. Otherwise, nothing I could think of to set it off. It’s the “LP beep” and not the “CO chirp”. And in order to make it quit, I’ve been forced to use the overhead fan for at least 5 minutes with the windows open — otherwise it goes off again in 10 or 15 minutes. Last night I was pondering use of my rubber mallet (kidding). Tonight I have my cgd (combustible gas detector) out, so I can use it on the spot if it goes off again, before I turn on the fan. If the detector doesn’t find anything I would like to conclude a faulty CO/LP Alarm. But I DID smell propane back when it first started in July. And the cgd had positive readings with the propane tanks off, in August. So it’s a quandary.
Do I dare disengage the thing? I read my manual for notes on fuses, and I see a chart, but I’m not seeing the labels to match in my fuse box. Maybe there’s a 2nd fuse box? At any rate, I need to do something — it’s not fun to be opening up and pulling in outside air when it’s 45 degrees. Though it does bring back vivid memories of a trip I once made to Bryce Canyon in November with a canvas pup tent.
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10 hours ago, Mocmpr said:
That’s us, from Missouri ❤️ First time to South Dakota and first time boon-docking. So nice to run into you the other day.
A first spotting for me, and I’m glad I found you.
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The campground host says another Oliver came through 2 weeks ago!
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A brand new Oliver Elite 2 from Missouri - with a gray and silver front logo like mine!
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Just a brief hello as I prepare to be without power for about a month. Won't be able to participate in the forum as much, unless I manage from my phone.
Black Hills SD, Devils Tower WY, Wapiti campground (west of Cody), West Yellowstone MT, and someplace in the Grand Tetons WY before turning south and east.
Many heartfelt thanks to all the great members here for your help, encouragement and advice as I begin this next segment of the journey. I'm thrilled!
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22 hours ago, ScubaRx said:
How can you find anything inside them after dark?
Xray vision!
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16 hours ago, topgun2 said:
the blank tank flush port.
I didn’t do the black tank flush port — should I add some to it, even though I have a composting toilet?
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On 8/16/2023 at 10:51 AM, John E Davies said:
They make the cramped interior look way, way larger.
Looking larger.... This is why I chose the frosted -- the space feels larger and cleaner. It's less contrast, and I preferred that. I have never really used the lights inside the cabinets, so that isn't an issue for me. And to combat any potential rubbing on the backside of the frosted doors, I try to make sure that there is something soft between the contents and the door face. Yes, you can see the colors of things -- but it's translucent, not transparent. I like the frosted.
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Thank you for your reply —
I have about 30 minutes before sunset… I’m going to start pumping antifreeze. Seems to me, with the winterization valve configuration, the antifreeze is only going to lines and faucets, not to the fresh water tank (or other tanks.)
But if anyone disagrees, I hope they will let me know. (I’m still wearing training wheels, apparently!)
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So.... I'm working on winterizing, because I'd rather do it now, while I still have access to power water wifi etc, rather than waiting until later. I leave in the morning (note: likely no cell / wifi or computer access after I leave early tomorrow). I'm anticipating low 30s, but I know the weather can turn around fast out here. I'll be boon docking until early to mid-October, in WY, UT, CO Rockies.
And now I'm BACK to this issue of not being able to get the Fresh Water Tank to drain below "19%" on the SeeLevel monitor. I've lifted the trailer front (some more came out), moved side to side with stabilizers (some more came out) but the SeeLevel still reads 19%. That 19 seems to be a magic number with the SeeLevel. (haha) I am NOT brave enough to blow in that hole, @dewdev but am wondering if I can find something to use to dislodge if there is blockage which there doesn't seem to be, with the dripping that came along earlier. I've had it open all day. I know that OTT staff do NOT recommend using blown air to dry out the water lines.
QUESTION: I have been assuming that I MUST drain the tank all the way in order to Winterize. IS THAT CORRECT? I've watched Jason's great winterization video (and the valve configuration video), read the articles on the process, and watched the Truma video. I've already taken care of my Truma AquaGo Winterization (drained, turned off, filter removed and stowed). All I have left to do is:
1. Finish Draining the Fresh Water Tank.
2. Add the AntiFreeze to everything.
Can I go ahead and add the Antifreeze and just drive with the Drain Valve open under the curbside and see if the SeeLevel monitor registers lower level when I arrive tomorrow evening at my first destination?
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18 hours ago, John Welte said:
Did you remove the wheels or are you planning to remove them to get to the two fittings that are at the top of the Dexter assembly? Something about crawling under trailer while on stands makes me a bit nervous.
I did not remove the wheels, and I only stuck my head under as far as necessary to get a look — watching Jason’s video gives you great views of the central zerks.
The other tool that is VERY handy is a small mirror on a swivel stick — I bought one at the Tractor Supply in the sale bin for $3. I used it to check the new grease after pumping. I did the central ones last, and by that time I had a good sense for what it felt like for the gun tip to be engaged with the zerk — so I did it blindly.
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3 hours ago, John E Davies said:
I also added labels and arrows showing water flow direction for the fresh water valves.
I used painters tape with a note to remind me that the Truma WH is in bypass mode — and another that signals the open valve in bathroom (taped over my rear camera power toggle, so I don’t forget to close it prior to travel.)
Thank you for the diagram — it’s helpful!
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On 1/26/2023 at 3:31 PM, topgun2 said:
You need to raise the tire that is connected to the axle where the shackle is in the correct position. By doing this you take the pressure off the shackle that has been "flipped" thus allowing it both room (to unflip) and lack of resistance (pressure) so that it can unflip. All of this occurs on the side of the trailer that has the flipped shackle.
In my example it really doesn't matter if you put the 4x4 under the front or the rear tire. Nor does it matter which shackle is flipped. This is because if the front shackle is flipped and you put the 4x4 under the front tire - nothing will happen as you drive forward over the 4x4. But, as you continue to drive over the 4x4 with the rear tire the front shackle will flip back to its "normal" position. This same principal is true for JD's solution using a curb.
Oh Good Grief! Are all 4 of my shackles flipped?! How do I fix when all 4 are like this? And if this is true -- could it be caused by using the Anderson levelers (first on one side and then on the other)?
photos attached.
EDIT:
I have watched two different videos and now I believe that my shackles are all okay. But it sure is confusing without a decent photograph to know which way they are supposed to be sitting. I'll try to check in again tonight after my chores are done.
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My hope is that OTT can utilize the experience of existing Oliver owners to narrow down their selection -- if they choose to go this route. And I will say that it probably would have benefitted me to have an Oliver-allied service experience while I'm so far from OTT Mothership and from my home.
Also (my last comment as well) -- not everyone has room for the tools to do all the maintenance. Nor the place. I live in a TINY condo, without a garage and very minimal storage space. (Makes it easy to live in my Oliver for months, because I'm used to the small spaces). So I hope to have my maintenance mostly done by Oliver, unless it's something that requires minimal tools (like the Zerk greasing -- easy peasy and minimal tools, plus needs to be done often when you are on the road for a long time).
Thanks to all the great folks at Oliver, including moderators, who help us stay informed and better equipped.
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On 9/1/2023 at 2:22 PM, Mike and Carol said:
my local family owned RV repair shop
Care to share the name and location? OTT is about 1,000 mile for me. I'd love to know another service center that is familiar with the Oliver!
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1 hour ago, topgun2 said:
However, hopefully the threads are not stripped. If they are stripped then you hopefully you have the taps and dies necessary to fix this.
I'll report back on the loose zerk after the second batch is done. I think I can tighten it down (it responded to hand tightening but I want to put a tool on it for a bit more comfort). I don't have tap and die on hand. It would likely mean a hiccup in the current plan to leave here on Monday (holiday).
UPDATE IS ABOVE IN MY PREVIOUS LONGER POST.
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2 hours ago, topgun2 said:
I've heard from a couple of FLA Ollie owners who are also OK
I'm okay (I'm on the road) and my home is okay too -- reports from home base in Lee County FL are of minimal flooding, nothing compared to last year. My brother reported that the wind was not bad either.
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Boon-docking at Last!
in Campgrounds & Parks
Posted
SOLVED!
I had to turn off all breakers, turn off and disconnect from main 30amp power supply, then reset everything… and it worked! But I do have a question:
There are (2) fuses in the aft dinette’s fuse box, for receptacles (?) — labeled #9 & 10 (2022 Elite II) — they are solid black — how can you tell if they are blown, when you can’t see through them?