Boudicca908

What is the total height of the Oliver E2 with standard wheels and the Chill Cube?

When I entered John's Oliver, I was interested in seeing some of the modifications he has made. First I wanted to see his electrical area under the aft dinette seat, as I am trying to learn how to find specific parts. Then I checked out the air fryer (where a microwave used to be) and his controls (mostly different due to the age of his unit, but also because he has changed out a lot of the systems.) It was probably 10 minutes later when I looked up and commented on how shallow the Chill Cub air conditioner was -- almost flush with the ceiling, making a sleek surface. What I did NOT notice was that it was turned on. I couldn't hear it at all. He lowered the setting to make it blast and I believe my impression was that the noise was less than 30% of the noise of my Dometic. I rarely run my AC, mostly because it hurts my ears. On the outside, it's boxy. But on the inside, all I can say is "Wow".

Again -- it's not "north" that makes for cooler air, but elevation. Also, I once considered a summer volunteer position near the Boundary Waters, until I read the fine print where it recommended "impenetrable clothing". I called my friend who lives in Duluth to confirm and he said, "Don't do it. The bugs will eat you alive." or something to that effect. I have visited Minnesota twice, in January when the snow is high, the bugs are low, and the owls are 'down south' for great birdwatching.

Six months, usually in the Winter.

I try not to put any of the chemicals directly on my skin, instead dousing a hat or bandana or a loose over-shirt. The Lee County Florida Mosquito Control District (recognized around the world for combatting mosquitos) recommends oil of lemon eucalyptus in addition to the usual DEET, Picaridin, and something called IR3535 -- a 'biocidal active ingredient made by Merck'. https://leecountymcdfl.gov/fight-the-bite/

Greetings to the Alcan Oliver Club plus! I'm looking for suggestions for campgrounds in proximity to Grand Junction. This will be a detour for my summer, and thankfully not too far off course from my planned route. However, I haven't had much time to research for places to camp before the day. I have tried to read the entire Made In USA Leaf Springs thread (now at 37 pages) but haven't been able to complete that task. I am looking for suggested campgrounds but also favorite things to do during a day or two in the area. Also suggested good eats. CAMPGROUNDS So far, I've found two campgrounds mentioned in that thread, and I am seeking additional input to add to this list: James M Robb Colorado River SP FRUITA SECTION CO 8 miles W of Alcan Spring; https://www.cpwshop.com/camping/james-m-robb-colorado-river-state-park-fruita-section/r/campgroundDetails.page?parkID=50069&media=3 James M Robb Colorado River SP ISLAND ACRES SECTION CO 23 miles NE from Alcan Spring; 1055 I-70, Palisade, CO 81526 https://cpw.state.co.us/state-parks/james-m-robb-colorado-river-state-park/james-m-robb-colorado-river-state-park-camping Rifle Gap SP 76 miles NE from Alcan Spring; 5775 CO-325, Rifle, CO 81650 https://www.cpwshop.com/camping/rifle-gap-state-park/r/campgroundDetails.page?parkID=50038&queueittoken=e_snasoco01~ts_1784416095~ce_true~rt_safetynet~h_7c7fd3b7e002cd85f34c1de9feaf47d1b6c0c9a91e25de9abdb5894558bc513e Other campgrounds in the regional area: KOA Grand Junction (commercial) this is close, but not my cup of tea... Rabbit Valley Mcinnis Canyons Conservation Area (NPS) 30 miles W of Alcan Spring; Mack, CO 81525 https://www.recreation.gov/camping/campgrounds/10227416 I camped at Rabbit Valley in 2024; it's very minimal but has some interesting formations. I was actually in the Horse Camp area, and had the entire place to myself. That section was easier to access, and better suited to my limited time that year. Saddlehorn Campground (NPS) LIMITED LENGTH (will not accommodate Oliver E2, not sure about E1) max 40 feet combined length https://www.nps.gov/colm/planyourvisit/camping.htm *The length limit in Loops A and B for all RVs is 40 feet. The length limit for trailers is 40 feet total for the vehicle and trailer combined.* LOCAL EATS Dream Cafe 314 Main St, Grand Junction, CO 81501 I resisted posting this in the MADE IN USA LEAF SPRINGS thread, but I hope it will serve as a good reference for those of us making the journey to Alcan Spring in Grand Junction. Moderators might be able to better link, if they see fit to do so. I am inserting that thread below. Made in USA leaf spring

Oh!

This does seem to be a common problem. People have resolved in different ways, having found different causes. By the way -- we did replace my brake wires in both front and rear axles, but the original rear axle wire was left abandoned in the rear axle. Unfortunately I didn't pull it out that day, because we were working against the clock, trying to finish as the sun was setting. Now it's a lot harder to access. I hope to get it out of there to inspect it though, because I really want to see it. Thanks @Wayfinder for linking the image of your frayed wire -- Wow! That is a mess. The jury is out on my 'fix' and time will tell.

Anywhere and any time there is heavy dust -- in other words, places that are dry (the west in general) and places that have heavy farming and/or ranching and places with a lot of pollen. I find that it takes a lot more than an annual cleaning to keep these clear, but it's not hard or too time-consuming, and well worth it. I just use the pipe cleaner method and hand wiping, I don't have a compressor, but I might try canned air (like the kind used for darkroom photography, to clean the film).

John and I don’t think the wire pulled from the axle looks like the culprit (though only the wire from front axle was pulled, the other is still in there, cut free)… only the small section near the hole with missing grommet was nicked. However, there were no warning messages yesterday. Today will be a longer tow, and I will keep the forum updated. UPDATE: It was about 650 miles from Prescott AZ to Cimarron NM, with zero warning messages, but it's still not definitive -- I will tow 300 miles in about a week, and another 500 miles the following week. Remembering that I towed 1,000 miles without these messages at the beginning of my trip, I believe time will tell.

Time will tell! John and I don’t think the wire pulled from the axle looks like the culprit (though only the wire from front axle was pulled, the other is still in there, cut free)… only the small section near the hole with missing grommet was nicked. However, there were no warning messages yesterday. Today will be a longer tow, and I will keep the forum updated.

BRIEF UPDATE July 14, 2026: I accepted the generous offer by John @jd1923 and Chris to come farther west to Prescott and tackle this 'Check Trailer Wiring' issue. While my Oliver was jacked up, I was able to take care of some other regular maintenance work, and John helped out with that as well, but I will focus here on the trailer wiring. The main job was to replace the brake wires beginning at the left side (below the battery box) where the wiring exits the hull, and connecting new wires to each of the four brakes. John suggested pulling the new wires through the axle by taping them to the end of the old wires, for various reasons, but once the taped joint reached the opposite side and I needed to pull it out through that small hole in the axle, the tape broke apart. I tried pulling the new wire through that hole with some needle-nose pliers but the wire was so soft that small pieces were breaking off. So we reverted to my initial plan (based on several others here on the forum), and ran the new wires along the rear side of the axles, using split loom and zip ties to anchor it. We found that the butt connectors I ordered from Amazon did not hold; John tested one and the wires pulled right out without any effort. He had some older style butt connectors that we used, with much thicker metal inside, and then we added tape on the connections. I will probably come back to those taped joints with some liquid tape to try to weatherproof them better. (I saw that someone had used a clear sealant -- if anyone knows what that is called, I would like to find it. The liquid tape I have is black like tar.) The finished job looks really good. Note that I haven't tested by towing yet. After the rewiring, I measured the amperage at each wheel, after disconnecting the 7-pin connector from the truck and pulling the Emergency Brake pin. Each one measured about 3.0, with the left front measuring slightly higher. This was a good result in so far as the power was flowing from the Emergency Brake battery (I believe on the Oliver, this is the trailer battery; SOB trailers have a separate little battery for this power). After the tires were back on and everything was back in place, I tested again using the power from the truck through the 7pin connector, with John's son Adam helping me by being at the controls in the truck. Measuring the two main wires exiting the hull (below the battery box) the amperage was 1.85 and 1.71 on the left front and rear wires. This measurement is obviously without being in motion, and my understanding is that the truck will not provide the full power to the brakes in this case; I'm not sure what amount should be expected here, but power is flowing to both wires from the truck. Quoting from @Geronimo John in an older forum post, "... modern brake controllers sense when a vehicle is stopped and back off the power flow to the magnetic coils when stopped..." Yesterday, John and I performed another set of tests on the 7pin Cable wires where they enter the hull and exit the cable, inside a double sized junction box behind the small panel below the vanity sink (see earlier photos in this thread.) We tested amperage for each of the wires, and the 7pin cable seems to be working fine -- even jiggling the wire at the connector and below the Oliver -- so we elected not to replace it. Of course, once again, this is not in motion driving down the highway. None of this is definitive until I actually tow the Oliver, tomorrow morning. I will report again in a few days, and try to add some photos here for clarity. I don't think this is resolved yet, but making progress on eliminating things is good. Many heartfelt thanks to John, Chris and Adam -- they have all been extremely gracious hosts and very helpful, and have cheered me up as well. Many thanks as well to all the other forum members who have been helping out with ideas and links and questions. Now we are heading out for some fun! EDIT: Added Photos with captions. Some of these might be helpful for others. These are the grommets that come with the Dexter Axles -- the wires pass through these from left to right side of axle. NOTE that they have sprung tabs on them to keep them in the axle; when you try to remove them, the tabs break off. They are not rubber grommets they are stiff plastic. I tried to replace the missing one with a rubber grommet (I cut it to place it around the existing wire) but my rubber grommets were not deep enough to cover the thickness of the axle. These two came from a new Dexter axle that John ordered. This is one of the nicks in the wire where it passed through the hole in the axle without a grommet. There was a larger section of exposed copper, but I can't find it this morning. This is the brake wire pulled from the front axle; I didn't see melted insulation nor other nicks exposing the copper here. (The original rear axle wire is still inside the rear axle --EDIT: but it is cut loose from the brakes. There's a new brake wire run outside that axle as well.) John's handiwork -- thank you John. Butt connectors splicing original to new brake wires, before being wrapped in tape. I would have preferred heat-shrink style for better weather-proofing, but this is what we had to work with. The front axle with new wire from left to right brake assembly. Butt connectors (both images after crimping); the new heat-shrink style on the left didn't hold the wire at all -- it pulled right out. The old style held, but is not weather-proof. They are taped for now. I'm seeking a good quality liquid tape or other product to address this.

And there are Oliver owners who boondock almost exclusively. Hopefully more will pipe in here for you. I live waaaaay down in southwest Florida; I 'boondock' at Cracker Barrel when I'm just trying to get closer to my destination, which is almost always in the Rockies -- about 3,000 miles away from home. Once I reach the west where BLM, USFS and other public lands are abundant, I typically boondock for weeks at a time without plugging in anywhere, but I am mostly at higher elevations so I am reaching for a light blanket rather than the AC. This year has been an exception for me on this; I got away from Florida a lot later in the season. I have the Lithium Pro package (mine is (3) 130 Lithiums) but I am frugal using power. I hardly ever use my microwave. You should also consider where and what time of year you want to camp -- seasons will impact how you use power. Does your Oliver have propane heat? Does it have a propane refrigerator? Mine is 3-way so I can use DC, propane or AC -- but I don't think the new units are like that. I agree with John here. I only have the single awning on the right (curbside) and often enough it's not where I would need it for optimal sun protection. It all depends on the access, even when you are boondocking, and how you decide to position your door, etc. I used my awning a lot my first year but rarely use it any more. Some people create shade with different methods, like hanging shade cloth. I've wished for shade on my left side, but apparently not enough to do anything about it. :) I would opt out of the solar awning. There are other forum members who will give you more concrete data on power use and other options. Have fun as you think about your options.

Where's Ollie is my favorite thread and it's 10 years old! Thanks @Mike and Carol for getting it started!

Last year I found the same issue with the screws coming out of the pvc mounting boards. Service had no suggestions to offer except to replace the pvc mounting board. I don't think the pvc material is the right thing to use for this mounting board, but that's what they use. My brother and I discussed this issue and came up with a simple solution. On my Oliver (and others might vary) there is enough space below the pvc board to place a narrow strip of thin plywood -- just long and wide enough to use to sit below those locations and to reinstall some longer screws through those clamps. I keep checking the existing clamps, and have tried adding some superglue in with the screws, and that has worked on two of them, for now. I don't want to have to take everything out to fix this issue. I don't have the tools to cut this piece of wood, but that is my plan. @Galileo on an Elite II Twin Bed model, it's below the curb side bed close to the stove location, where the plumbing equipment is mounted.