ChristianD

I towed with a Yukon and it pulled great. No issues. Ours was newer but we never had any issues with it. When I bought the trailer, I picked it up a few hours away from home and didn't tow it back with the weight distribution connected. Towed fine. On longer trips, I did pull it with the wdh and never had any issues either way.

Over Thanksgiving week, my wife, daughter, dog and I drove out to Yosemite and Sequoia National parks. I let the dog do most of the driving 🙂 Camped at Yosemite Pines RV park, which was very nice, but a bit far from Yosemite. Made for some long morning and evening drives. Spend about 4 days there. My daughter worked from the RV one day via Starlink. That was our first experience with it and it went really good. Sequoia we stayed at Lemon Cove RV park. Decent place and much closer to the NP gates. Saw a bear on Bear Hill one morning, so we decided not to hike that area that morning. Had lunch with some deer then drove up to Kings Canyon, which was better, in our opinion, than Sequoia. All beautiful places though. The Oli towed great the entire trip and was nice to have some of the updates I had done previous to this trip. The new axels and Alcan springs felt great. The new Tosot AC/heater worked well for night time when I ran it for heat since I was plugged in to campsite power. No reason to burn through the propane while hooked to electrical. New Truma water heater worked perfect too. Overall, a great trip and no issues with the Oliver. It was also nice to have our daughter fly in from Denver and spend the week with us.

We're planning a trip to Yosemite soon and I picked up a heated water hose. The forecast is calling for lows just below freezing and it will be a just in case we need to fill our tank. I don't think I'm going to leave it attached, at night, but from what I've read, the heated portion is for that scenario. We'll keep our furnace on at night since it runs quiet, and run our rooftop AC unit heat during the day, so I don't use up all the propane and can save that just for sleeping hours. I also bought a dual voltage plug in Vornado heater, which has a low setting that I plan to run at night since we'll be hooked up to shore power most of our trip. This will be our first trip during colder weather, so I may be over doing it, but wanted to be prepared, just in case it's needed.

Probably not. I'm not seeing that control board easily available for less than $150. If I happen to come across one for cheap I may pick it up though. My research shows it's Dometic part number 3312022.000 If I can't find it cheap, then I may pull the Micro Air out of it and motor and shelf them or sell them off separately.

The $345 quote was for the 2 rear decals that has the Oliver name and the front decal on the nose. Just the 3 decals. They didn't quote for the big swish on the sides that you see on some trailers.

✅ Successful Furnace + CT Thermostat Integration After A/C Swap (Tosot Unit) Hi all — following up on my earlier post where I mentioned trying the Dometic controller from RV Surplus. Turns out that board was not the correct one for our Oliver furnace setup, and it would not communicate with the Dometic CT thermostat (kept throwing E1 code (no communications with the board). TL;DR: If you replace the factory Dometic A/C (mine is now a Tosot), the only way I found to keep using the Dometic CT thermostat to control the Suburban furnace is to reuse the original Dometic control board from the roof A/C. The CT thermostat did not run the furnace without that board in the circuit. 🚫 The Wrong Part I Initially Ordered I'd edit my previous post about this part, but I don't appear to have edit access to my older post. For clarity, the controller I first tried — which did not work — was: Dometic™ OEM 3316230.700 (9600024570) / 3313199.000 Single Zone CT Thermostat w/ Control Board (Cool/Furnace) – White Even though it says Cool/Furnace, this is a Single-Zone CT control board, not the CCC2-style logic board used in the Oliver. It will not communicate with the Oliver’s Dometic CT thermostat → results in E1 error. This board also lacks the correct communication architecture that the Oliver’s factory wiring uses. So if you're replacing your original Dometic roof A/C with a Tosot and want to keep your CT thermostat to run the Suburban furnace, this part will not solve it. I only had success after re-using the real factory control board pulled from the original rooftop A/C. ❌ What did not work Purchased a Dometic “furnace controller” from RV Surplus Installed and wired it per previous guidance CT thermostat would not see it → E1 comm fault That part was a standalone freeze/temp sensor board and not the actual Dometic furnace logic board the CT needs to handshake with. At least that's my understanding of why it wasn't communicating and turning on the furnace. ✅ What did work Removed the original Dometic control board from the old rooftop A/C unit Installed it in the ceiling cavity where the wiring drops down Connected the original Oliver comm wires (blue/white) and 12V power leads; basically connected all the wires I cut back to the wires on the original control board. Connected the furnace R/W from the Dometic board to the Suburban furnace leads Plugged in the original Dometic freeze sensor (or you can use a 10k resistor) to avoid E5 Thermostat rebooted, initialized properly, and now Heat mode functions just like factory. The Tosot A/C runs stand-alone on its own remote — the CT thermostat now just handles the furnace. 🔧 Mounting Notes There was no enclosure around the board in the original AC, so I repurposed the housing from the incorrect RV Surplus controller. Trimmed two corners of the board to fit and secured all wiring. Everything is clean and protected behind the interior ceiling shroud. 🎉 Result CT thermostat works in Furnace mode No more E1 or E5 errors Oliver interior remains OEM-clean — no separate thermostat needed Tosot A/C runs independently on its own control system 💡 For others doing a swap: If you want to retain your CT thermostat for furnace control: Do not discard the original Dometic A/C control board. It must be reinstalled to act as the furnace interface. The Oliver wiring uses the Dometic bus — not simple furnace contacts — so the board is required for the CT to communicate. Thanks to @RonBrink and others who paved the way on this mod — his wiring was slightly different, so I'm sharing this as a variation in case it helps the next person who uses a Tosot (or any non-Dometic) replacement A/C. Pics attached below. Let me know if anyone wants a wiring diagram or parts notes.

Yes the $73 was for the two side decals that say Oliver Legacy Elite II. Just those two decals.

Put the new side decals on. Looks like nice quality decals and went on easily. I clay bared the sides first, then hit them with a 3M 1 stage buffing compound, then wiped and cleaned it before measuring it out. Drew vertical lines about where the doors are below where it goes, then measured to the middle of the bond line and door. I came up with 8.5" down from the bond line and that was the center of my decal placement. $73.71

I found the issue with the generators now working. My Honda generators have a "floating neutral" and the Tosot won't power on without the neutral grounded. I made a plug that jumps the neutral (silver side) to ground and plugged in the regular plug, plugged into the rv, fired up the generator and the AC powered on! Both my Honda EU2000 and 3000 work with it like that. Solution: Ground / Bonding Plug Some RV A/C units + soft starts will NOT start from an unbonded generator (floating neutral). They see it as a fault and won't engage the compressor. Honda portables = floating neutral Fix: Use a neutral-ground bonding plug in a spare outlet on the generator. Example DIY bond plug: Standard 3-prong plug Jumper neutral to ground inside

I put in an order to a decal shop to get the side rear text decals. We'll see how they turn out.

We're on about 1.25 acres. When we moved to AZ, about 5 years ago, my wife wanted a house that was move in ready, had a pool and I wanted a large garage. We bought a house that was move in ready and that was it. No pool and a 2 car garage with very little extra room for "stuff". We had a pool built about 2 summers ago as our first major project. Took over 2 years to get it done with permitting and contractor issues. 😞 I steadily cleared the back of the lot and a pathway to the back. Before I started doing that, you could barely walk to the backyard, it was so overgrown and unkept. Next project is/was the garage. Just got the garage barn up a few weeks ago. I grew up with uncles that had barns, so it's been a dream most of my life to have one. I'll enjoy the build out, since I like doing those kind of projects. I have a few generators for now to power the building and plan to add solar. I may trench a line for power and water, but want to get some other stuff done first. I've remodeled a few houses and can do basic electrical but haven't done anything like a subpanel or full electrical wiring yet. I don't think it's beyond me, but I'll have to go to Youtube and ChatGPT school for a lot of it. Like you said, everything cost $$$, time is limited too and I'm not as young as I used to be.

Congrats CRM on the install. Looks like a nice unit. My Tosot install was very similar with just the power wires, but with mine the gasket removal was much cleaner. I think whomever put that old Coleman on accidently flipped that seal on install. The sticky side is supposed to be on the AC unit. Makes a mess for you when swapping out the way they did it. This was mine right after I removed the Dometic. Hopefully, John's is like this. I just sprayed it off, then gave it a quick buff to clean it.

I started looking into the Victron stuff, but that's on the back burner for now. If you saw a picture of my garage, you'll notice I don't have garage doors, electrical, or the built out workout area that I told my wife about 🙂 Yesterday, we had a crew out here working on the outdoor cement aprons. Got the dug out and framed. Next is the concrete pour. Garage doors are getting installed in a few weeks and I'll probably put a EG4 inverter and a 48v battery in with a few solar panels for now.

Most likely, they may not have the big swoosh graphic files if they shopped those out to a specialist. If they did their graphics and decals in-house, then the person who used to do them must have left without any knowledge sharing. My assumption is that the folks at their headquarters don't have the graphics or computer skills to reproduce them... it's not hard, if you know how to recreate them 🙂 Maybe I should sell them the files they need to recreate them, but after seeing what they wanted to charge me, I'd be less inclined to do that.

Slight update. I'm waiting for a thermostat, but I also found the Dometic control box that Ron posted a bit cheaper on https://thervsurplus.com/search?q=Dometic™+OEM+3316230.700+(9600024570)&options[prefix]=last so I ordered one. We're going on a weekend trip and I don't think I'll have either of them hooked up, so maybe next week. Buttoned up the AC unit for now. Works great and it's quiet. I tried to power it with my Honda EU2000 generator, but it didn't turn on. Thought it might, but no bueno. PXL_20251028_001654190.mp4