Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

My Info

  • Gender or Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
  • Year
  • Make
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Wayfinder's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

  • One Year In
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated
  • Conversation Starter
  • First Post

Recent Badges



  1. It was time to touch-up the bulldog hitch. I used a pretty good Rust-Oleum flat paint, after wire bushing and cleaning well. Should I bother with a clear coat enamel on top? What would you do? Thanks, Chris
  2. It took me weeks to finally confirm it was the door. The weather seal looks okay. I will take a much closer look at it soon, again.
  3. They are likely original as I'm the second owner.
  4. Has anyone had leak issues on the main walk-in door on the 2016 EL-II? I don't like how the seals are not continuous throughout the entire edge of door. I'm getting a good amount of rain on the floor.
  5. I just tested the lower frame of the A/C unit. It's magnetic. I have a few old magnets from hard drives I can place on the screen inside. It would stay in place even in a hurricane.
  6. Well, it's been a while since I posted anything. Today I had to kick out some wrens building a nest in the air conditioner, on the driver's side, where there is open space under the cover. I temporarily added some screen material on the inside, but it will not stay without a better solution. I better add it to my pack-up check list to take down. Has anyone had this issue? Right now the trailer is in my driveway. Not where I want it, but for now, it must be.
  7. Wires looked okay when I pulled them out from connectors to inspect, just dark colored, but no melting at all.
  8. During my full-time adventure, I discovered this in the Progressive Dynamics ATR. I was not happy to see that the two connector screws indicated in picture were VERY VERY loose. Had to turn several times to snug them up good. Now I need either a new ATR, or at least figure out how best to change those two half-melted wires. The busbar plate, or ledge (black), is secured to the box with two rivets. Has anyone ever see this before? Also, while looking closely, I noticed the front 30 AMP receptacle on the trailer is not protected by the EMS, only the driver-side 30 AMP connector is protected by the EMS. Any thoughts or teachings on the differences between the two 30 AMP receptacles? Thanks,
  9. Well, after some serious life-changes and nearly four months full-time living in the LE-II, I've taken a new job in Georgia and leaving North Carolina. Time to prep the trailer for storage. I do have some upgrades in mind soon. I want to order all new shades as my strings are starting to fail on the beige colored shades. I want white next. I might upgrade the suspension when I replaced all the break assemblies. New sink faucet, maybe sink too, we'll see. Also, if you all don't know yet, AT&T and Verizon now have reasonable cellular hotspots (pucks) with high data plans for a reasonable price. I lived on 100GBytes / month and only used 50 GB once, but then, I was only in the trailer in the evenings and rarely stuck around on the weekends. I streamed everything using an Amazon Fire TV 4K stick. I live mostly on YouTube Premium though. Everything else in the trailer is working perfectly. I learned a lot while full-timing in the last summer and early winder in North Carolina. Once I find a storage location and might start showing the trailer again thru Oliver. Happy Holidays!
  10. I had two blinds snap a string in the same week. I have the old beige colored frames so I'm thinking of ordering all new white ones and calling it a day. Some of the blinds aren't folding closed very nicely anymore either. Hull 110 is getting up there in age so it's about time. Thoughts?
  11. Wow, the fan setting was on Lo. I don't remember fussing with the fan setting, but I did place the AC down very low one evening so it would not cycle and have issues with the small generator. I think a soft start is in my future. I don't typically use a generator, but I didn't have a 30 Amp outlet at the house. Once again, thank you all. Thankfully it was simple. I'm heading into winter here in NC while full-timing. I'm pretty nervous of things going wrong, especially when heat will be needed to protect the water lines. I'm at a great RV park though, so we'll see. I'm interested to see how long the two 30 lb LP tanks will last, especially since I'll be at work most days and will set trailer to some undecided low temp. I wonder if anyone has that sort of experience with the Ollies. I'll poke around forums. Chris
  12. This might be a complication question & solution. I recently ran my trailer off a generator. The A/C could, JUST barely, get started, but always did. I only ran it for an hour or so before bedtime to dehumidify while in Georgia. I got home and ran the furnace for the first time in a while. Furnace turns on and works great, but so does the AC unit. And the AC just constantly runs, and cools. It normally cycles on and off, annoyingly so. I rather have a constant fan anyway, side point. My temporary solution was the flip the AC breaker off. Next day, I tested again, and same result. Any ideas?
  13. Thank you @Geronimo John. Unfortunately it was not guaranteed to get to me before I had to hit the road again. But that's okay. I'm not too happy with the old break assemblies/kits on #110. One is manual and three are auto-adjusting, which, one does not seem to auto-adjust at all. I had to use @John E Davies trick to get the automatic arm out of the way of the adjuster. There are no teeth left on the adjuster, so the automatic arm has nothing to grab onto. Understandable. Next will be to decide which Break assembly kits I go with. But, that's for another day. I think good old-fashioned manually adjusted assemblies is the way to go. I'm almost temped to take it to Tennessee and have Oliver do a bunch of suspension and break upgrades. But, they'll likely charge WAY more than me doing it myself. They're too busy for that anyways, I'm sure. You guys are great. Sorry for repeated questions. These forums are not nearly as good as Google search algorithms, so tougher to find the correct info for each unique situation. Cheers, Chris
  14. @John E Davies This thread helped me today. I found that I have ONE manual break assembly and THREE not-so-auto-adjustable assemblies. You're trick of holding up that automatic arm with a thin screwdriver helped me. One of the assemblies really does not have "teeth" to adjust with. I guess it was auto-adjusted too much. I did improved the stopping power, but I'm still upwards of 8 or 8.5% on my truck tow break. I'd like it closer to 5% (out of 10). I'm too tired to get on the ground one more time today. Maybe another day. Next, I'll want to know what "BEST" break assemblies I should get for poor old #110. I'm not liking the whole "Nev-R-Adjust" crap. What BS. Maybe I'll stay with good old fashioned manual adjustable. I'll have to dig through the forums more to see what folks are saying is best assemblies/kits these days. Suggestions are welcome on the assemblies and if I should start a poll/thread or something else. Take care, Chris
  15. I'm looking forward to trying the Redline CV-2 grease, when I can get my hands on it. The schedule is tight and didn't want to drive any farther without some sort of new grease. The bearing look great, so that's good. I enjoyed doing the repack. It's therapeutic in a way. And greatly satisfying.
  • Create New...