Wayfinder

If I did not stress this before. Ensure you have a reliable torque wrench on your trips, one with a long handle for easy torquing. That way you can always ensure both the trailer and tow vehicle's lug nuts are as tight as you want them. I think in this group it sounds like we range from 90 to 110 ft lbs. Especially important: IF you decide to change out your lug nuts, take one good trip, say 1 hour or more, and check all lug nuts when you stop. I found one nut on the trailer that either came lose or I had missed on final inspection. Inspection of torque should like be done a few times until you KNOW the nuts stay where they should. We can't get too lazy here, but we will eventually. We're busy humans. Safety first!

It is recommended to get the bulge acorn style for the aluminum rims.

Well, most folks here will suggest call Oliver, not that they will have that part on hand (no way), but they can confirm who your window manufacturer is and "maybe" you can get replacement material from the manufacturer themselves. Not sure otherwise. Maybe someone else has a better suggestion. Great question though!

Wow! I will see how good of a job I did on resealing the door after today. It's absolutely and utterly pouring rain outside and looks like it will be for most of the day. This was a lot of rain. Another update to come.... 🌊 After this rain, I checked the camper, and not a drop. All good!

Looking closer at the picture of the yellow straight edge comparing the distance between the hull and where the door frame will be, you can see how Oliver offsets the outer seam from the inner seam. Now that's thinking!!! Well done.

It's this stuff here, Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape Here's my YouTube comparison on the two sealant tapes I had on-hand.

Well, after a year or more of using towels to soak up rain water, I finally got the nerve up to take off the walk-in Lippert door from the trailer. The sealant putty behind the door frame, where the screws go in, had failed and leaked bad. This was an easy job! It only took me three hours and most of that time was prep-work and clean-up of old butyl tape (putty). I have a bunch of video clips to put together to make a YouTube video of the process, but I'm finding it difficult to organize everything. I need to re-shoot a better intro. I'm still learning. Anyways, the door & frame came off WAY TOO EASY. It appears that someone before me attempted to repair the leaks (left & right sides), but they did not cleaned off all the original butyl sealant/putty. Don't be lazy. Clean everything like new. Also, I used two layers of butyl tape in the middle area of the door frame, on the left and right sides of the door frame, due to the distance between the yellow straight edge (see picture) and the curved pieces of hull and where they meet up. I used a plastic scraper to take off the heaviest of old butyl tape from the hull and the door frame itself. I then used 3M adhesive removal and a rag to get the surfaces perfectly clean. (Wear gloves) Everything went back together quick and easy, no issues at all. I waited 18 hours before performing a leak test, to ensure all putty had warmed up in the sun and "squished" around as needed. I've done a heavy, heavy leak test and it's gone through one heavy, blowing rain storm and another lighter rain since completion, all without a single drop inside. YAY ME! You don't know how happy I was to see that I did it better than the last guy. The original putty(s) looked really bad and it did look like someone attempted to address the issue before I purchased the trailer. What a crappy job they did. Shaking my head. Also, in those middle sections of the hull, where I doubled up the putty, I noticed that old putty was not even remotely "squished" in by the door frame, indicating there was air gabs between the putty and the frame, or the hull. THIS WAS NOT A DIFFICULT JOB. I should have done it sooner! Many of the screw holes were too large for the screws used. Really, there were about 10 of the 23 screws which could have been removed by hand or simply pulled straight out of the holes. I Epoxied the worst of the holes and re-drilled. I also added a handful of new self-tapping screws to ensure the door frame snugged up tight to the trailer where needed (not in the middle sections of the left & right door frame). Remember, the door frame will not really "bend" towards the hull due to the door frame itself being so stout and with right-angles, hence the need for doubling up the putty in the middle, where the hull was too far way from door frame's edge, where the screw holes are located. As some of you know already, this door, I think, is custom made for Oliver, as my door did say Lippert, but the sticker essentially said, made for Oliver, mine was from a lot of 10 doors. I looked on the Lippert web site and I did not find the same dimensions of doors as Oliver uses, or I'm measuring wrong. The fan in the attached picture is where I was drying up the spray foam between the floor and the outer hull. Oliver used foam as a filler, likely to reduce movement, but my foam was soaking wet with rain water, so it sat and dried while I worked on everything else. Again, if your door leaks, but is not damaged and does not need replacing, this is a super easy job, and likely if you did need a new door and might be able to have it shipped from Oliver, it would still be easy. I say that because someone on Facebook just mentioned their door got damaged in a wind storm recently. This is a one-person job too, unless someone wants to help clean up old putty from the hull or door. That would save a lot of time.

Everyone needs to pull up their particular tire specs sheet, you know, the one with the inflation chart to weight load chart, and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Everyone saying they run between 45 and 55 lbs are doing it right. It dumbfounds me how Oliver AND even tire shops are maxing out the tire pressures on a TT, but yet not the tow vehicle. Like @routlaw indicated, how the heck does their logic work? LOL I have brand new Michelin Agilis CrossClimate #72022 (225/75R16) and I run them now at around 48 to 50 PSI. (I'm conflicted between 45, which is still well above what I'm hauling, and the traditional 55 PSI). LOL. So I chose 48-50 PSI. It might be me, but I felt like it towed just a tad better just below 50 PSI, but again, I still do not have the Dexter EZ Flex suspension upgrade installed. Maybe this Fall I'll get time to put them on along with new break assemblies.

Agree with you Mr. Davies. Now that I know of many of the issues with these fans, I'm surprised I have not had more issues - knock on head. But, I'm ready for them. I'm really surprised I've not had moisture issues yet. But then again, I run my fan on 10 or 20% almost 24/7. That might be helping some.

Yeah, I've seen a lot of great videos out there about these fans. I also didn't know about sealing the motherboards until I was helping her recently. We love and hate these fans, but the great thing is that it looks like most of the parts can be reordered. I've already had to change out that cheap pot metal cog mechanism which raises the lid up and down. That was not a fun sound to hear in the middle of the night. These forums has helped me with that project.

Karren from hull #422 contacted me the other day, I helped her at the rally this year. Her Maxxfan stopped working after a storm passed through. I had her reset the power to the fan's motherboard. Like my trailer, there is no dedicated 12v fuse for the fan. So, I had her disconnect from shore power and disconnect her batteries by using the disconnect switch under the bunk. This worked like a charm. The fan is fine, for now. I've done that before too when my fan's remote stopped working with the fan. Reboots fix almost everything, outside of hammers and duct tape. She may have continued issues if that Maxxfan Mobo, is on the way out. Her CO2 detector also went off about the same time, so it could have been a minor serge from the lightning storm. She has both an external EMS outside as well as her internal EMS, so I'm not sure how this could happen, but I'm no electrician. Has anyone else seen this before? I would guess it can be common at times. I created this video to hopefully help others with this simple reset trick.

yeah, you're right, but I don't get along well with this forum's search function. I should have used Google at least. I was lazy! There!

You completely cheated when knowing what to search for. You participated a lot in that thread. Oh sure, everything is easy if you have the answer. LoL 😂

@Galway Girl I see you have some sort of red lock-down screw thingy protecting your propane tanks. Do you have more info on that? Or anyone else have a thread already going in the forums on protecting propane tanks? Thanks again! Chris

Well, as I'm using my trailer more now, and my regulator is likely original (2016), it's likely time for it to fail. Since I've used eTrailer before, I just went with them. Slow web pages, but reliable parts in my experience. https://www.etrailer.com/p-37207-30395.html Thanks @Galway Girl (Craig) and everyone for the detail info. I think I've seen more yellow flames on the stove lately. Will monitor it.