ZLarryb

Bit confusing with all the images. I am using the Lexus hitch and installed as per the instructions with no issues.

Thanks a lot!

I really want to check this but I am not sure what this is "plastic twist connector fitting on your water line". There are lot of fittings down there. ;-} Please take a second and help, thanks

Thought this might help someone else out. The water pump was not working. The main switch light was on and functional. The bathroom switch was functional. No noise from the pump at all. I opening the compartment and immediately saw that one of the wires had come loose from the pump. I plugged it in and all is well. I think I will go back in and try to tighten the connection. Hull 1467

So I solved my issue and it might help someone else. I learned that not all cigarette plugs utilize the same amperage. When I went to find a replacement, I noticed that the typical plug is rated for only six amps. So, I went to Amazon and found a more robust plug, rated at 15 amps, it has two fuses — one in the plug and the other an in-line fuse. Now all is well. Rookie mistake, lesson learned .

Yes, it has not been smooth sailing. I keep blowing the fuse in the 12 volt cigarette connector. I am on a trip and don’t have my tools. There is a possibility I may have made a wiring error but I have not had time to get into it. Before I left for the trip, it was fine so just not sure. Will let you know.

Furnace, did not see any blockages. But…. I turned it on this am with one diverter removed and no error code! I will keep an eye on it.

Thanks all. I did check for kinks and found none. I removed one of the diverters and will see what happens. I checked the outside port and it seems okay. I am not sure if I have the right tool with me to take it apart. It really warmed up today so it might be a bit before I can check further but I will let you know. I will call Oliver if I can’t figure it out. Again, thanks.

Sorry Hull Number 1467, picked up 1/24

Could use some expertise. We are on our first long road trip from South Carolina to Colorado. It is a bit colder here than at home and for the first time since we picked up the camper. I have used the heater. On both occasions, I got a 27 H code, this is the error when the unit is overheating. I know the unit will cool itself and I think it has. I turned the thermostat down a bit, the error code went off and the unit seems to be heating without further issues..... so far. I am guessing that it is overheating when first firing up because that is when a lot of the heat is generated. But it is has me a bit worried. Before I call Truma or Oliver, I wonder if anyone else has experienced this. Thanks!

Thanks all, really appreciate it. With a big trip coming up, I was reluctantly going to take the camper to my "trailer guy". Anyway, yesterday I was able to grease all the zerks. Lessons learned and/or reinforced... 1. There is no point in getting mad at an inanimate object, it does not help -- at all. Work in progress.... 2. The 90 elbow attachment is a pain. I realized that if it leaking around the zerk a bit that does not mean it is also not going into the fitting. I think before I was stopping immediately if I saw any leakage. I also realized that it does not have to be totally tight to work. I just tightened it as much as I could. 3. Most of the zerks can be greased without the 90 degree fitting. The primary connector can be a bit off 90% to work. 4. It was hard to pull the trigger and find the fittings at the very top of the axle. I think an old fashion attachment without a trigger would be easier. 5. I am going to change the zerks to 90 degrees. I can't thank you all enough..... Larry

I did turn the collar but did not depress the thumb level, that could be it, thanks so much for all the responses, I will give it a try in the am and let u know.

I have gotten about half to respond, I think it is a good suggestion to depress the zerks that are not accepting grease. I think u are saying that all the zerks are the same. - of course - and there is only one size fitting? I have not replaced any zerks, only tried another grease gun attachment, thanks

I am responding to my own thread as I still cannot get grease into some of the fittings on the axles. I have jacked the camper up but that did not make much difference. I am using the LockNLube grease gun with the 90 degree fitting. I have tried two of the 90 degree fittings so I know it must be me. I cannot get the grease gun to be really secure around the zerks. I have adjusted the fitting on the grease gun but it just does not seem secure and the grease does not go into the zerk, goes around the zerk. Any idea what I might be doing wrong? I have put about 1500 miles on the camper but we are headed out west in a month and I don't want to mess up. Thanks! 2023 Elite II, 1467

Just a big thank you to Tim D for this mod. I installed it today, no issues and there is more than enough clearance to get to the sewer hoses. I have a short trip this week before we head out for five weeks and will try it out. Thanks!

I am using the trio flatmount converter and am very happy with it. Starlink has a mount for the router that easily screws into the upper cabinet and it snaps right in. It has held the router during travel with no issues.

So turn it till it clicks and put a piece of tape on the light switch, awkward!

New electric-only refrigerator, how do you totally power it down? Hull 1467.

So that really helped a lot. There is still one that will not respond. I will try again tomorrow when I am fresh and will not cuss it. ;-), thanks again for the help.

That would never have occurred to me, back to the camper, thanks a lot!

Hull 1467, just picked up in January. I am trying to grease the axle fittings for the first time with little success. I bought a new locknlube grease gun and a 90 degree extension. I primed it ..... after a bit of a hassle. Only one of the four of five fittings I have tried to grease have accepted it. The rest come out the front of the fitting, not into the fitting. I order another extension just in case it is faulty but I have a feeling it is me. Any tricks or suggestions?

You are correct, Generation 3 uses RJ45 connectors and I have confirmed that everything must be shielded. While I am thinking about it, for others ....... I first tried a hole drill on the outside connection but had good success with a router blade for my Dremel, very easy. One other thing for those considering this. I want my Starlink to be powered by 12 V and there is now a relatively inexpensive device that means you don't have to cobble together different devices -- https://www.trioflatmount.com/shop/p/gen3-12vconversion, the company claims it used 4.5 amps. So, all my stuff is due today so I will see if I can get it to work, thanks for answering.

Hey Sak or others who might have done this. First, I must say running a new cable is not fun but I will get there. My question is did it work? I have read there are requirements for the rj45 connector - they should be metal and shielded. Did the connection device from the outside of the camper to the inside present any problems because it is not metal and shielded. Just looking to see if there were any issues with connection. Thanks!

Sorry, did not see your post. So here are a couple of pictures. I am a bit concerned about stability but I think with the cushion it will be okay. Also, no claims to be a master carpenter just want some options, pickup next Wednesday so we will see. Second picture looks lopsided but I set it up unlevel in the drive.

We went with the twin configuration and I have built a simple insert for the space between the beds for those "special" occasions..... Yes, we went with toppers, thanks again for all the help