TimD

Here's an update on the LE2 sliding vent window tracks. I believe the correct Hehr part numbers are H109-602 (for the curved sections) and H109-599 for the straight pieces. These can be ordered from Pelland. There is an update for these vent tracks. The tracks having the wooly fuzz on each side vertical section were replaced by flexible track made of TPV. I do not have part number or supplier information for that, at least not at this time. The TPV track is flexible enough that a separate radius-ed part is not required. The sliding portions of the 5600 / 7600 windows are not designed to be removed (the only Hehr window sold up to this point which is designed this way), so replacing the vent tracks can be tricky. I understand the vent tracks were made by an (unidentified) outside supplier and not by Hehr. I further understand that the window model number is 5600. Hehr 7600 windows are identical to the 5600 with the exception of the outer trim, meaning 5600 and 7600 series parts should work on Ollies with 5600 series windows. Neither the 5600 series nor the 7600 series are shown among Lippert's current product offerings. The story is a lot longer than this, but the important information is above. Tim

Having worked as a design engineer for 40+ years, including 20 at the world's #1 telecom manufacturer, I think I can say that this is emphatically not how you should treat your customers. I can accept assemblies going EOL (though just why a sliding window becomes "obsolete" isn't at all clear), but refusing to provide even basic information with which a customer can identify an alternative parts supplier is simply not OK. Tim

Today's update. After getting a mild runaround at Lippert, I was connected to a "CS" rep in Direct Sales Customer Service, from whom I learned the following: The Hehr manufacturing plant in Chesaning, MI, where at least some of the RV windows are made, is closing in the immediate future. Whether the windows used in our LE2 were made at this plant isn't 100% clear, but I think they were based on the discussion. Per the Lippert "CS" representative, that plant cannot provide spare parts, or any information on the parts used in the window, the window model number, or whether the plastic bits of interest are manufactured on-site or by an outside supplier. They don't give that information out - obviously it is top secret - but were unable to provide any rational explanation why. The Lippert "CS" representative was unwilling to provide a contact at the plant. The explicit suggestion was that I replace the window (!!!), which oh by the way might require modification before it would fit. The Lippert "CS" representative's position, on which they have been coached, was that window obsolescence in the RV industry was common practice and, implicitly, that I deal with it. I made clear that there were approximately 2000 Oliver travel trailer customers who were being stranded by Lippert. I'm not quite done on this path but the situation isn't looking promising right now. Oliver, if you are reading this, a phone call to Lippert might be in order. Tim

Reviving an older thread. First, thanks for posting this. These tracks - in which the glass panes slide and which are NOT the flexible rubber 1/2" black or white seal easily available from Pelland - are cracked in spots on our hull #701. I'm trying to identify model of the (we think) Hehr windows and the specific part number and description of these tracks. There are both straight and curved pieces, which conform to the perimeter of the glass. They appear to be segmented into 4" or 6" lengths. If anyone has more info on these please post it. I'll share what I learn, if anything. Thanks!!! Tim

No issues so far and I don't really anticipate any. Could be wrong. We did upgrade our rack to an "RV rated" unit from 1Up. Best Tim

Had ours done today, hull #701. The unit which came out looked brand new. I think I'm going to salvage the igniters and possibly the solenoid. My shop billed an hour. On to the compensation phase of the project 😀 Tim

An update. I drilled the hole to 1/8" and hammered in the 1/8" roll pin sourced from the local hardware store (we are fortunate to have a reasonably well-equipped HW store nearby). The OEM roll pin was a little bit smaller in diameter, possibly a metric size (3 mm = 0.118"). That in turn suggests the latch was made overseas, like a lot of stuff these days. Sometimes the best fix is the simplest fix. Thanks for the support and encouragement! Tim

Thank you @ScubaRx, that's worth a shot. Tim

That's the new roll pin. I suppose I could ask my travel partner (my wife) to help, haven't done that yet.

Thanks for the replies. I do have a bench mounted vise. What isn't obvious from the photo: A collar has been removed to expose the hole for the photo. The spring-loaded threaded rod needs to be pushed in far enough to expose the hole past that collar, and then the roll pin has to be positioned correctly, held in place, and either pressed or hammered in. I haven't been able to do all of those things simultaneously. I think I'm pretty handy with this kind of thing. I like the machine screw idea and have various types of thread locker on hand, but I do not have a tap set. I'm always in favor of adding to my set of tools but in this case (and at my age) I'm not sure it is worth it. I'm working with Southco to see if they will accept it in return for repair (so far they won't, not least bc. they don't have a business process for that. "We could put you in touch with one of our distributors mumble..." - that's unlikely to help. Maybe they'll offer a replacement. I have already replaced this latch on the trailer so the item in question would be a spare, or could be offered up to the community. Thanks again Tim

Howdy - One of the Southco M1 latches on our 2021 LEII failed with a bent / broken roll pin, which is an internal part of the latch. I've removed the bent pin but so far have been unable to install a new pin. Seems like a fixture is required. Southco, once you get them on the phone as they don't answer emails nor voice mails, are completely unhelpful. So, I have a $60+ latch, perfectly good otherwise, heading for the trash, or at least the recycle bin. Any tips on how to press or hammer the roll pin in? Thanks Tim

Hi folks, following up on this topic with some information we gained recently on hitch-mount bike racks used on travel trailers and RVs. From above, it looks like @Steve Morris and @MAX Burner are both using 1Up heavy-duty racks. Good plan! As it turns out, not all hitch racks are 'rated' for use by their manufacturers for 'RV' or 'travel trailer' use, independent of whether they are capable of carrying e-bikes or not. In the case of Yakima, with whom I spoke yesterday, 'RV use' means 'mounted more than 72" from the rear axle of the vehicle'. In more general terms, a rack either is, or is not, designed to withstand the more extreme accelerations and displacements imparted upon it when hung out on the end of a long trailer or RV. In case you are wondering, based on a quick measurement it is about 7' / 84" from the rear axle of our LE2 to the hitch mount. The 1Up EquipD we have used, twice and on relatively short trips of 300 miles or less, is not rated for RV use, as one can see from the chart below (used without permission of 1Up but available on their web site, somewhat buried): Fortunately, our 1Up EquipD has not failed - yet. But for an upcoming trip we've borrowed a very expensive Specialized full-suspension e-MTB for my wife to use. It is about 50 lbs., and this weight got me curious about the load rating of the 1Up EquipD. Which led me to this chart. The thought of my friend's very nice, very expensive e-MTB bouncing down some New Brunswick, Canada secondary road and into the front of the following vehicle made me reconsider our plan. 😵 The very helpful Customer Service folks at 1Up confirmed that the EquipD was not intended for use on an RV or travel trailer, and might be subject to a failure of the vertical plates holding the greater rack assembly to the hitch tongue. Further, the very helpful Customer Service folks at Yakima suggested that their HoldUp rack was somewhere between 'likely to fail' and 'might fail' when hung on the end of our LE2 and loaded with 80 lbs of bikes. So the Yakima HoldUp on offer from a friend was disqualified as a substitute for our 1Up EquipD. Until we can upgrade our rack (probably to a 1Up HD rack), moving forward we won't be using the EquipD on the back of the LE2. For this trip the bikes will go in the bed of the TV, using a fork mount, 2x10-based rack I fabricated in our driveway last night, while being devoured by mosquitoes. We may still bring the EquipD with us, empty and on the back of the LE2, so that we can move it to, and use it on, the back of the TV for day trips away from base when the LE2 is detached. Lifting the 50 lb. e-MTB into and out of the bed of the TV and securing it to the fork mount rack is a bit of a bear. The rack sales specialist at our local REI had no understanding of 'RV / travel trailer' rack specifications, BTW. YMMV. Hope this helps further inform the bike rack discussion! Tim

Thank you Cameron, they have been helpful in the past, I'll try that. Tim

The left backup light on our LEII (#701) has failed, or has become intermittent. Removing the bezel and four screws holding the LED assembly in place reveals about 1/2" of free wiring, straight into the hull, and no connectors. So, no easy way to disconnect the assembly outside the hull, in order to bench test the light. The wiring diagram does not identify a fuse for the backup lights, not to say there isn't one. Access to the lights and wiring, and in particular the backup lights which are at the bottom of the taillight stack, through the garage door is somewhat difficult, not least because the exterior garage door is in the way. At least the right hand side light is working! After removing the garage rear panel I see several layers of insulation and various unrelated (?) wires in the vicinity. So far I have not reached the inside of the hull itself nor found any connectors which might permit removal of the light assembly. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Thanks in advance! Tim

Following up now. No bikes, obviously. Tim