Galileo

I guess if detector false alarms are common enough, the switch makes good sense. I’m sure some safety expert somewhere is shuddering at the thought of people selectively disabling their CO/propane detector. The “reminder” I have that my detector is inoperative is the replacement sitting on the counter goading me to install it.

Pretty sure the power monitor that the Oliver comes equipped with will tip you off if the outlet is wired incorrectly. All those flashing red lights in the aft cabinet above the television must be good for something! 😋 Seriously, if it detects a fault, it won’t even let power in from my experience. I also carry a little receptacle “analyzer” that you can plug in to a 15/20 amp receptacle. It will tell you if it’s properly wired and grounded. I don’t have one for a 30 or 50 amp receptacle, but assuming (!) that a 30->20 amp adapter will let it analyze a 30 amp circuit. Add the 50->30 amp dogbone and you should be able to check anything. (I’m sure an electrician will jump in to correct me on the above if it’s not true!) https://a.co/d/e6M4b1m So far, the only faults I’ve detected are the floating ground from a portable generator, and the missing ground when plugging into a friend’s home outlet.

We didn’t blow that fuse - but had to pull it when the original CO/Propane detector started throwing false alarms - at 3am of course. No fun being awakened without real cause, being deaf for 5 minutes, or having to dislodge the two panicked cats from the ceiling. And yes, it’s not an ideal location for a fuse. I was loathe to replace the failed detector - still supposedly WELL within its stated service life - with another unreliable one. So we ordered this one. https://a.co/d/3SUEvPm It sticks out a bit further, and it’s brown instead of white (which I actually like) but it has the advantage of actually having a readout that shows the propane or CO PPM that it’s detecting.

Though it’s an old thread - looks like it’s already been re-opened. If anybody cares, these are the blocks/pads/stands we’ve been using for a few years now: https://a.co/d/6SwIden They’re rock-solid and spread the load out on softer surfaces. The main reason I like them is because at about 6” tall, they REALLY reduce the amount you have to extend and retract the jacks. All three of them. That not only reduces wear and tear - it really saves quite a bit of time when setting up or departing. Especially nice if you happen to arrive during a monsoon. (Which I got to do just last week!) In especially very un-level spots, I’ve had to skip the stand under the tongue jack to be able to drop the nose of the trailer enough to achieve level. Usually one of those “Oh Hell!” moments when you realize you’re out of jack travel and you have to jack the tongue back up, back up your TV again, retract the jack, pull out the block, extend the jack, move the TV -again- and re-level. In that case, I keep a lightweight “racing” floor jack for the purpose. A quick lift, pull out the block, and lower away. I also have three 12x14” 3/8” thick aluminum alloy plates to put under jack feet when on very soft surfaces. They’re actually company name plaques from former employers…

Quite true. Never thought of that. I suppose if optimum flow rates are important to you, then this would be a factor. I would opt for ball valves in my land-based plumbing for this reason. I was always a little surprised that conventional valves had such small, restrictive passages. I’d bet that with all the fittings, valves, check valves, pump, accumulator, etc - there are already a ton of restrictions in Ollie’s plumbing system.

Pros of SharkBites is that aside from a tool that cuts a nice, square end on the PEX tubing, you don’t need other tools. (You can use an appropriately sized open-end wrench to depress the locking ring on a SB connector should you need to remove it.) Cons - high cost. Conventional PEX connectors require a specialized crimping tool - though one that lets you use a ViseGrip Plier as the oomph will save you a few $$$ over a dedicated PEX crimping tool. If you don’t get a good, leak-free connection with a conventional PEX crimped fitting, you have to cut it off and start over. You can often salvage the connector by carefully cutting off the crimp ring. For a “lean” repair kit, you could probably get by with a 1/2” tee, elbow, and two straight connectors and a couple of feet of tubing. I haven’t priced SharkBites lately, but I’d guess that the above - plus the tubing cutter - could be had for about $50. (I remember SBs costing $10-$12 each for 1/2” ones - but that was two or three years ago.) You’d probably spend that much on a decent PEX crimping tool by itself. As someone else already mentioned, installing PEX “below deck” in cramped quarters can be a bear. (I think I just talked myself into SharkBites!)

Though I have never used SharkBite fittings, they used to sell very well at the hardware store I used to work at - in spite of their relatively high cost. You mention “permanent” in your comment. I’ve know of folks who used these all over their homes - including inside walls(!) That's something that would make me a little nervous. That said, people tend to regard them a permanent. Being “old school” - I’ve never even used PEX. Soldered copper for me. Of course, not so practical in an RV. I don’t keep any plumbing spares so far. I guess if/when the time comes, I’ll have to hope I’m near enough to a hardware or home improvement store to get some PEX fitting, tubing, lock rings, and a crimper. I do recall that there is a crimping tool that utilizes your existing ViseGrip pliers to supply the power. That should save you a bit of $$& over buying a stand-alone PEX crimping tool.

He was pretty messed up for a while, but he recovered. Sadly, he passed away from an unrelated illness a year or two later. There may be a lesson there someplace.

Looks like you have the second A/C power connector!

I didn’t know I was whispering sweet nothings….

I think I found an answer: select a picture that works in this application. Done!

I’d be curious to learn how the pedestal ends of RV “shore” power cables fare. Do they have the overheating issue? Do they occasionally charge or start on fire? Since the 30 amp receptacle on the pedestal likely gets a lot more use - and abuse - than the RV end - I would expect it to be an issue as well. I haven’t come across any burned-looking 30A receptacles in three years of camping at dozens of campgrounds across the country and into Canada. That’s almost counter-intuitive as they are exposed to a lot more hands, plugs of many different manufactures and condition - as well as the “attitude” effect of people often not treating other people’s stuff very carefully. Then again, I think the straight push-in style receptacle/plug are more rugged and intuitive than the twist-lock. I’d say all of the above is a factor as a reason sometimes mentioned is “Great, but what can you do about the pedestal end of the cable?” To which I’d say “Nothing really, but it seems to be less of a problem than the twist-lock end, and if something is gonna start on fire, at least it’s not on the side of your camper!”

Hopefully something Oliver beefed up on later hulls!

Thanks Bill, I’ll probably edit a picture - maybe splice two together - to make up a profile pic that puts the items I want to accentuate on either side of the stuff that covers up the middle of it.

Yeah, I’d say you called that one right. I just mentioned that I like to keeping things OEM - and it spiraled from there. 😋 Hopefully, people looking for info on Andersen Hitch will have sensed the (major) drift and stopped reading long ago. It’s kinda the nature of conversation though, right. You’re right of course - I never cared for Belgian beer until I tried DeKoninck at the brewery.

That sounds like it would help somewhat, but see how both my and KatanaPilot’s name is plastered across the center of the profile picture? That’s what I’d like to remove or reposition to be able to see the picture. Otherwise, a landscape or skyline picture would be the only kind of picture suitable for that use.

We’ve stayed at Rock Cut SP. Camp Reinberg too - that’s a nice one. That area is still too congested with too many jerk(ahem) drivers to be somewhat safe for a recreational motorcyclist IMHO. I was thinking of getting another bike in rural NE Texas - until I heard the brother of a coworker riding his Harley got wrecked by a (wait for it) feral hog.

We do the same with the inside switch. More to conserve propane though. I probably only use hot water once a day - usually less. We generally take our showers at the campground facilities, or at a health club depending upon how long we stay in a given place. I haven’t been turning off the switch on the outside. I guess I never thought about it. Nobody addressed it during our delivery process. I guess I’ll have to read the manual!

It is a challenge for some folks - typically men - who often derive their identity from their profession. I don’t think that ever applied to me. I worked to live, not lived to work. My old day job changed, the company changed, and I realized I didn’t belong there anymore. I was happy to accept an early buyout and “retire” at 50. That company is now a shadow of its former self. (Think of a big Chicago based media company that used to have a “tower” on North Michigan Ave.) Corporate wife and I escaped to rural Texas to get away from Chicago winters, congestion, pollution, and politics. Became hobby farmers. Changed our lifestyles dramatically. But, we were still too tied-down to the property. It “owned” us - so it had to go. We enjoyed 10 years of the best organic pork, poultry, and veggies. The freshest eggs - but - we moved on. Will we do this forever? Probably not. We may end up in a “tiny home” (without wheels though) but probably keep up the international travel. Can’t beat Italy and France for food and wine. The UK & Ireland for beer. Scotland - well, you know. (Actually, the food is really better than most people are led to believe!)

We have similar backgrounds. I too was the “new car prep” guy at the Buick dealership. Radios, cruise controls, defrosters, and everything else to make sure the salesman could get the car out the door. I did the motorcycle thing too. Rebuilt the engine on a ‘77 XS750-D including a big-bore kit. Funny, in the year 2000 - an 815cc motorcycle was pretty “small”. I had the smallest engine in the advanced motorcycle safety course I took before I got back into riding. I ended up selling all the bikes - I got tired of every driver on the road in Chicago trying to kill me. I’ve even been known to buy “broken” stuff off eBay to fix and own it cheap. It’s amazing how many people can’t (don’t) read instruction manuals and think something is broken - or can figure out how to put batteries in properly.

I am definitely feeling what you’re talking about. I all but gave away the roller chest and top box I bought when I first started working as a mechanic - 1978. Sold it and two other hardware store roller chests I kept plumbing and carpentry tools in for a song. I took most of my tools “portable”. Wrench rolls, soft toolbag, threw in enough of my hand tools to do most repairs. I couldn’t bear to get rid of my tools though. Most is in storage. Yeah, it’s hard to divest yourself of “everything” when you decide to go mobile. We still have a storage unit in Texas. We donated $1,000’s worth of furniture, books, DVDs, etc. It’s amazing how nobody wants furniture - even nice stuff in good condition. Cleared out TWO homes - the “suburban”home of 38 years and the farm as well. All we kept is stuff that’s sentimental, some clothing, or stuff that’s not valuable to anybody but us, so not worth trying to sell. The problems with wanting to travel AND have a fixed base are bigger, especially if you want to take a long trip cross-country or an overseas trip long enough to be worth the air fair. I gave up trying to find somebody reliable enough to watch the farm. Even after you get rid of the critters, you’ve gotta have somebody visiting the place or you’ll have squatters or a meth lab in your cabin. That, and the property taxes on the place in the suburban had far exceeded the amount that I had been paying for mortgage. Add regular maintenance, insurance, and utilities to that and it’s easy to divest yourself of that kind of financial burden. It’s also the reason we can enjoy our new lifestyle. We just came to realize that we always had more fun “on the road” than we did married to a home or property. Anyway, I try to keep my hand in it as far as repairs and improvements go. I can pick and choose my projects. I leave the messy, mundane ones to the others. I guess I’ve done enough oil changes and tire rotations that the meager amount of money I’d save by doing it myself isn’t worth the thrill.

A comment by KatanaPilot mentioning his profile picture made me away of that feature that I had not previously noticed. I thought “cool! I can add a profile picture.” I did. Unfortunately, because of the member name and other stuff the system places over the top of the photo, you can’t see what’s in the center of the photo - like where most photographers put the subject of the photo. I tried clicking various things to see if the system would let you uncover the photo or have it pop up in a separate frame, but so luck. I guess I can go in and resize and crop the picture to move the subject off to the side. That would make MY profile picture more effective, but I wanna be able to see the planes on KatanaPilot’s profile picture! (I like planes.) (Hopefully the examples below illustrate my point.)

Wow. Truma doesn’t seem to be winning many hearts and minds here. I’ve read seemingly very different impressions of Truma’s customer service. Some say they’re great, others - not so much. My only attempt at contacting them didn’t even get the courtesy of a reply.

I can’t speak to Goodyear, Pirelli, General, etc - but just out of curiosity, I contacted the friendly folks at Bridgestone - the main “corporate” office, not a dealer. They assured me that a given Bridgestone model is made exactly the same whether it is shipped to a GM assembly plant or a aftermarket dealer. (They were pushing Firestone service centers.) No different rubber compounds or other manufacturing differences. They DID say that tires from the GM assembly plant (and ones GM dealers sell) are stored - sometimes for quite a while. They said that this is why tires on your new vehicle can have shorter service lives. They said Firestone service centers get “new tires straight from the factory”. They went further to suggest those who are concerned should look at the DOT markings on the tire to find the manufacture date. Since they were Johnny on the spot with that storage factor information - I’d wager it’s not the first time that they’ve been asked that question. They suggested that how long a tire has been in storage could have a fairly pronounced effect on its life. I had to assure them that no, I was not contacting them to complain about my tires. They offered twice to set up an appointment to start a warranty claim! I can’t really even imagine the logistics of making the “same” tire with two different rubber compounds depending on whether it gets shipped to an assembly facility or to a tire dealer. It would also give a given tire a bad reputation - hurting future sales: “I had those tires on my new car from the factory. They wore out in 20,000 miles! I’ll never buy them again!” I would think that it could even cause safety issues - you tear up a tire and replace it with “the same” tire - but it’s different from the one on the other front wheel and it causes a traction difference that leads to loss of control. “Hello ambulance chaser? I’d like to sue Goodyear for $5 million!” Id be curious to know if other tire manufacturers will come out and say that “yes, we make the same model tire with two different rubber compounds depending upon if it’s shipped to a car assembly plant or to a tire dealer.” I won’t be doing that research though. I don’t know where “AI” got its information from, but AI does nothing but lift existing information from the web. And we all know that “if I read it on the internet, it MUST be true” right? 😋

Please don’t misunderstand me. I totally agree that having dealers - or even independent shops - do ALL of the maintenance would be too expensive. I pick and choose my battles. When Oliver Service said they could replace the black tank dump valve with an electric one for $900 - I said no thanks, bought one off Amazon for $200 and put it in myself. When Oliver sent out the new tire valve stem cores for the tires a year or so ago and suggested taking the trailer to the tire shop, I snorted and did it myself. (Almost) Any idiot can replace a valve stem core! ( the gift card they sent for $25 or $50 or whatever it was wouldn’t have covered having a tire shop do that anyway.) Likewise - for expediency sake, I addressed my own issues with the Truma water heater. I had neither the time nor desire to seek out a Truma dealer, wait for an appointment, and haggle with the shop and Truma over who pays for the service. Frankly, it was faster and easier to do it myself. I LIKE fixing things! It’s why my first job was as a mechanic and I worked on my own cars and houses for decades. Money is certainly a factor. These days, I’m in a little better situation financially than I was when I was younger, so that has changed my decision making process when it comes to maintenance and upgrades. As I get older, my TIME has become more valuable. There’s also another factor in play. My wife and I have sold all of our property and are on the road - domestically or overseas - pretty much 100% of the time. We’re “homeless”. Sure, we have an “official” place of residence, but it’s a studio apartment (kinda) above a friend’s garage that we crash in a couple of times a year between road trips and European vacations. That means that I don’t have the facilities to do much vehicle work. Sure, I could do an oil change in a friend’s driveway, but there’s no place for me to do much involved or extensive work. We also don’t have multiple vehicles these days. So I can’t put one up on jack stands and drive the other one to the auto parts store for brake pads. As I said earlier, oil and filters have gone up so much that by the time I buy six or eights quarts of the increasingly special oil my truck uses, I’m not paying that much more to have the dealer do it. That, and I don’t have to drag out the floor jack and stands to rotate the tires. I’m in and out in an hour or so with no dirty clothes, oil to recycle, or bruised knuckles and sore back. So sure - cost is always a factor, but so are time, effort, and convenience. I do try to weigh all the factors and select the one that best fits the specific situation. I’ve become a little more cautious over the years, which is why the current and previous trucks were purchased new. No, a new vehicle with a warranty is no assurance of freedoms from breakdowns, but it not only takes the sting out of a breakdown, it also takes advantage of the odds that a newer vehicle has fewer aging parts to fail. (Though “infant mortality” needs to be considered.) I forget exactly where it was - someplace between the Grand Canyon and Lubbock Texas - where we were driving (towing) on mountainous, winding, narrow roads with no shoulders and no “civilization” for miles. That would be a REALLY bad place to have a mechanical issue. Motor club be damned! Right about then I started thinking about Endurance or Ox extended warranties vs the cost of a new vehicle with a new warranty. At one point I had to eat a $500 out of warranty repair for something that failed -just- a few miles too late. I wouldn’t have had the knowledge or specialized equipment to do that repair.