Galileo

Ummm - yes, Navy shower - I can do that. On the other hand, trying to explain water conservation, grey tank size, etc - has been a challenge for me…. V

True - I’d call them “water resistant” or maybe even “spray resistant”. A rubber boot over the toggle assumes the rear of the switch is in a sealed enclosure.

Wow, I don’t know who “serviced” that unit, but they certainly made a mess out of it! Alternatives to Truma - yeah, the “old fashioned” tank type water heaters are pretty simple and reliable - but - they take a while to deliver hot water, are pretty wasteful of gas, and they sound like a jet engine firing up. As a tank style heater - once you use that 6 gallons of hot water - you’re out of hot water. No, I don’t take long showers in the Oliver (or at all if campground showers are available) but the other points still apply. As for “Dometic” - after my experience with the Dometic A/C that came with our 2022 LEII, (far too loud) the Dometic porcelain toilet (perpetual seal problems) and the Dometic fridge (flimsy freezer door hinges) - I wouldn’t touch another Dometic product. The fridge and toilet I can compensate for or live with. The A/C is gonna be in a garage sale after I replace it with a Houghton.

Good idea on the Barker valve “helper, but I already jumped on the Valterra electric valve. That said: @rich.dev “has the best idea, I think. Put the switches where the current handles are located. I would scrap the supplied wire harness (likely not long enough) and the supplied (awkward) switch and plate and buy 3 marine grade (waterproof) simple toggle switches, up for open and down means closed! They will fit in the holes left by the pull handles once removed.” Yep - the supplied cable is only about 7 feet long - and needs to be twice that. As for the switch, it’s DPDT -with- a pilot light - so a bit special - though I can likely just do a separate pilot light. Pretty sure those two would fit into the existing T-handle hole and an extra one for the pilot light. The connectors are another issue as the disconnect between the valve and the harness is fairly special - looks like a Molex knock-off to me. I’ll likely have to replace that connector with a more standard one. Finally, I think I’ll piggyback the 12v power for the valve onto the curb side leveling jack. It’s right there in the same area, has a capable enough circuit, and is highly unlikely to be used at the same time. So - though it’s not a drop-in solution, it’s still gonna be less expensive than paying Oliver to install it, and can be done on my own schedule. Until then - I have a “manual” valve that I have to go under the forward dinette seat to actuate. V

Rich.dev, Yes, that’s the one. Only swapped out the black because the grey is fine. Not sure how long the wires are. I’m good at splicing if it comes down to it. Steph & Dud - The valve pushed in dead easy. So pretty sure the cable is binding in the sheath around the bends. And yes, I’m loathe to complicate simple systems, but if those systems don’t work…. Besides, this is the “fix” Oliver uses. Worst case scenario - you can actuate the valve manually - just have to go under the dinette seat. V

I swear - I tried to find a thread for this, but couldn’t. Our black tank dump handle got SO hard to pull to open I was afraid it would snap off the T handle. The cable that operates the valve is about 12 feet long and has two 90 degree bends. I tried rerouting the cable to ease the radii, but it only helped a bit. Oliver’s “fix” is installing an electric valve. They want ~$900 to do that upgrade. I found the Valterra electric valve on Amazon for under $200 - and I’ve been known to be pretty handy, so I bought it. The valve install is pretty easy - cramped quarters and the ability to work without seeing anything helps. The valve is in. The electric switch is another matter. I haven’t quite settled on where to put it. I -think- I can cut a rectangular hole where the old valve was, but it looks to tight if possible. Anybody else done this upgrade, and if so, where did you put the switch? Anybody have this done by Oliver - and where did THEY put the switch? Val

Hmmm - if John with Hull #1045 got his letter last month, and Oliver is sending out letters 600-699 now, does that mean they’re working through the list “backwards”? Anyway, I thought it was more dependent upon the serial number of your Truma water heater. Are they shotgunning it and just advising ALL owners to check the s/n on their unit or ??? (That seems to be how they handled the coupler issue…) V

Hi John, No, not in the manual. I think the manual deserves a re-write as it’s glaringly lacking in a lot of areas. I suppose that’s the nice part about this forum, as owners either a few miles under their belts can share experiences and help others fix their issues without having to do all the sleuthing from square one. A real “preflight” on a trailer like ours would be akin to a pre-launch on the space shuttle. There are just too many systems to check in 5 or 10 minutes - or even a couple of hours - to make sure that -everything- was perfect before a trip. The “basics” would likely be all the things you hopefully already check. I’m sure someone here has already made a list that’s as good as mine, so until I have one written and perfected, I won’t post one here. val

Nope. Only notifications we’ve received from Oliver have been the one about checking to make sure the Bulldog hitch coupler was a 7,000# one and not a 5,600# one, and the one about the valve cores in the tires.

We resolved the issue with the Vizio television. Rather than mess around with trying to fit a 32” set where the old 24” one was, I just opted for a different 24” set. Figured that we didn’t really -need- a bigger screen. (Trailer’s not that big.) And it was more just the aggravating behaviour of the Vizio set that irked me so much. Went to Walmart and bought an “Onn” Roku set for the princely sum of $78. The mounting hole pattern is the same as the Vizio, so it was an easy swap out. If anybody loves the 24” Vizio and wants a spare, we’re traveling through Florida now and I’ll gift it to you.

The sound of the circulating pump and the sound of the flame coming on are normal. If you’re outside and listening very carefully, you’ll likely hear the “ticking” of the igniter and a fan noise that keeps the combustion going in the right direction. Those are normal sounds. The Truma manual says that “boiling water” sounds means you need to descale. Popping, whooshing, thumping, or banging are abnormal sounds associated with improper combustion from gas burning in the wrong places. That was my tip-off to the problem. “Galway Girl’s” documentation of the loose burner tube problem is what prompted me to pull out the burner yo check the tubes. I was initially “disappointed” to see the times were all in place. “Nuts! Now what’s the problem!?” I thought. Flipping the burner over and seeing that big plume of soot on the bottom of the tubes and around the nut attaching the gas line to the manifold prompted me to check the nut. Loose. Could move it freely with my fingers. Though I didn’t see much in the way of “crimps” on any of the burner tubes. (They’re smaller than I was expecting - my experience being with 2 foot long tubes on household gas boilers.) Mine were all in place and tight. Still, disappointing that a premium gas appliance in a premium trailer apparently didn’t get designed or assembled too carefully. Gas burning where it shouldn’t be goes beyond “inconvenient” and well into “dangerous” and “liability” territory. We put a couple of thousand miles on our LEII every year, and I’ve had several things vibrate or shake loose causing failures. It just reminds me that a good, thorough “preflight” inspection is called for and know trouble areas need to be checked frequently. Ironically, the stuff they tell you to check - like wheel lug torque - never seem to have issues. Go figure.

2022 LEII #1029 here. been using our Oliver pretty steadily - on our 4th multi-month outing. Currently in Manatee Springs (Chiefland) Florida. Starting having an issue with our Truma AquaGo Comfort water heater. It heated fine, but was noisy with a “thumping” or banging noise when the burner lit. Searching the forums, we found Galway Girl’s post about burner tubes shaking loose, and her description of “popping” sounded pretty close to our symptoms. Luckily, I travel with a lot of tools, so I investigated looking for the loose burner tubes. Nope, all tight and in place. What I did find was a little scary. (See the attached photo.) the nut holding the main gas line to the burner manifold was quite loose. You can see by the soot on the bottom of the burner assembly and nut that a lot of gas was escaping and burning in the wrong place. I tightened the nut up as much as I dared - not wanting to twist the fitting out of the manifold and put the whole thing back together. It now works fine. That said, I’m sure this nut will vibrate loose again, so between now and then I’ll have to think of a fix. Pipe dope suitable for LP is a possibility. Between this and the problem Galway Girl posted - and more than one incident of fires - it seems Truma had (has?) a QC or design problem that could lead to so serious consequences.

Hey there, We’ve started having a problem with our Truma Aqua-Go water heater as well. I’m thinking it’s related to the problem you encountered. We DO get hot water - but the water heater is noisy - some noise I’d describe as “banging” or “thumping” - but that could well be the same as the “whooshing” and “Popping” you describe. I also don’t think that the heater is working on the “ECO” mode - as I don’t hear the circulation pump starting up in that mode, but perhaps just because the burner is not kicking on. I can’t see anything wrong by looking under the burner assembly with a flashlight while it is still assembled. I guess I’ll have to go through the process you describe just to verify that we don’t (or do) have the same issue you have with induction tubes being knocked out of place. Shame on Truma for making a device meant to be used in an RV driven over the road - and not having it able to hold together under the use for which it was (supposedly) designed…. VV

Our 2022 LE2 has a center-mounted, flip up/down mount under the rear cabinet - so not familiar with the side/post mounts a few owners have mentioned. My concerns about the work (probably) have to do with to attach the new, 32” Tv to the exiting mount is that I no longer have access to a workshop or a lot of my tools. So I’ll be back to the bad old shade tree mechanic days using curbs, parking stones, and sewer covers instead of workbench’s and vises….

I realize this is an older thread, but still a viable topic. I hate, Hate, HATE the original Vizio television that came in our 2022 LE2 (hull 1059). It has a mind of its own and we DON’T agree. It is basically a computer with a display, and when it’s doing its background housekeeping tasks - or seeming to be lost in thought - it doesn’t give a damn what -I- would like it to do. Worst of all, it picks the least opportune times to outright ignore the remote. Usually at 2 or 3 am when we’ve fallen asleep watching a movie and I wake up to shut it off. Nope. Remote unresponsive even with new batteries. I have to pop open the cabinet and unplug it to shut it off. Anyway, seems the 24” Vizio is an oddball size for a “television” - probably more like a low-end computer monitor. I -think- I can make an inexpensive (Walmart) 32” ONN/Roku set fit with some work on the mount. It -should- fit, clearing the window shade frame and the cabinet. Looks like I’ll have to find some bits and pieces to cobble together a mounting though. Any more activity on this topic?