Mroth

Thanks. My 250 has the 11000 gvwr package, so the rear axle and springs are the same as the f350. It’s a 350 with the GVWR of a 250, so it doesn’t fall into commercial vehicle territory. what size drop did you go with? 4 inch?

Is this a direct replacement for the 2” bulldog coupler? Just take off the old and replace with the new one? Couldn’t I use a drop hitch with a 3” shank and a 2 “ ball on the existing bulldog coupler Apparently they are in chapter 11 right now, and the product is unavailable

Thank you. I wish the truck would fit in my garage, but living in Southern California I can keep it in my driveway without much worry. I’ll probably buy a cover for it as I really will be mainly using it as a tow vehicle. The Calmark cover for the trailer is extremely well made, so I would probably buy one from them. The fabric is so much better than what covercraft uses for their premium covers. I’m leaving towards buying a new shank for the Anderson ball/cone assembly. It’s $240 vs over $400 plus, and I can still use the Anderson. I’m assuming that the Anderson will still offer some degree of stability.

Hello all, I have been towing a LE2 for the past year with a 2025 tundra and an Anderson weight distribution system. I can say that the Anderson helps significantly with porpoising, but I found the tundra to be too little truck for the trailer. The power and torque are more than adequate, but every time I went out I found myself white knuckling going down steep grades. Just felt like very minimal safety margin if something went sideways. I sold the tundra and bought an f250 Tremor with 11000 gvwr tow package. It has a 3” receiver. My Anderson has a 2” ball on a 2” shank. Should I by a new 3” shank with 8” drop, or just by a new tow hitch and skip the Anderson all together. It is a bit of a hassle to use. I was considering weigh safe hitch with 8” drop. The new trucks receiver is at about 22.5” on center. Any thoughts would be appreciated, Marc

Yeah, they are expensive. I paid about $1800 for the pair delivered. Natural latex is significantly more expensive. I didn’t want to mess with cutting and sewing. I figured buy once, cry once.

They will make them any thickness or firmness level you choose. We opted for 9.5” which is the standard thickness for this model of mattress. We liked the feel of the mattress in the showroom, so we opted not to change it. These are very firm. We have one of their all natural latex mattresses in the house that is 12” thick with a pillow top. It is as plush as can be. Latex is extremely heavy and floppy, so I don’t think it would be a good choice for the trailer. Im really not sure how or if they ship out of state, but check out their website and shoot them an email. I could drop off my original cushions @ the showroom as a template if someone decides to order a set.

I bought one from someone off of a FB group. I bought it because it was a great deal. It came with a piece of high density foam that perfectly fills the gap. I have yet to do this, but I plan on splitting the foam into 2 pieces and upholstering them into 2 separate cushions that will match the dinette cushions. we haven’t used it yet, but I can tell you that it squeaks like crazy, and it blocks the drawer from pulling out of the night stand by being about 0.25” too tall. These are both easy fixes, but kind of a hassle. In my opinion it’s not the most elegant solution. It’s kind of bulky and heavy.

We got tired (pun intended) of sleeping on the stock cushions. We had some custom mattresses made. They are 9.5” thick, and very easy to move around when accessing plumbing/electrical. They are high density foam, so much lighter than latex. These are firm, and amazing. Custom Comfort Mattress in Southern California

Finished adding a shower valve. This should be a lot more functional than the stock setup.

Hi Steve, thanks for your assistance with this plumbing project. I really appreciate it. Marc

that is interesting, the valve separating the shower from the grey tank is also significantly further aft in my trailer compared to yours. My valve cables operate smoothly. My valves are manual, not electric. Not sure why they went PVC for waste lines, I never really thought about that. Not sure it really makes a functional difference

Thank you, I think I was able to add the signature.

I figured it out It’s the backflow/ siphon break for the black tank flush

Thanks, I wasn’t able to figure out how to add my hull # to my signature, but it’s 2024 hull 1502. I got it off and cleaned up. is this a vent stack or anti siphon setup?

Hello all, do you simply pry these white caps off? I am getting some resistance, so I wanted to make sure before I go to town on them. thanks Marc

Wow, that turned out great. That is the product I was considering using. Seems very popular with boat owners. Seems a lot simpler than mixing resin and catalyst. I was wondering how well it would match. I’ll give it a shot. Thanks

I’m moving my shower head to another location. Removing the existing mount will leave a couple of screw holes that I will want to fill. I’m wondering if I should go through the effort of using a vinyl ester resin followed with some gel coat, or just go with a white epoxy If anyone has any suggestions for a product that yields a decent cosmetic finish I’d love to hear about it thanks Marc

Thanks for the detailed post. I will likely do the same in the future. Marc