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@johnwen, glad to hear your experience ended without injury or serious damage. We also installed a standalone TPMS for our LEII (Hull 990), the TireMinder i10, with 6 transmitters (TPMS), four for the trailer and the other two for our spares. See: https://technorv.com/products/tireminder-i10-rv-tpms-with-4-to-10-sensors?_pos=1&_sid=585f6a851&_ss=r I installed the signal booster under the dinette rear seat. I have tested the range by walking over 300 feet from the trailer with the monitor, without loss of signal. Our TV does not have the option for adding trailer sensors. Don

@topgun2/Bill, Thanks for the reply and the info on the dimmer. Sorry to hear of your hardship conditions you are suffering there on the beach in NC. And no Ollie nearby in which to seek refuge. Have you explored the viability of separating the exterior lights from the interior? Don

@topgun2/Bill, could you please post details on how you implemented a dimmer for the lights? Thanks, Don

@Galway Girl/Craig, could you please list the temperature sensors you are using to monitor the belly/bilge temperatures? I may have overlooked them on your Amazon page. These seem useful when camping in freezing weather to monitor the high risk areas, such as the external shower. I have been contemplating some mods to improve airflow, especially to the street side. Thanks, Don

@Ray Kimsey and @CRM, my apologies for not including the detail photos below in my original posting. The fans come mounted together as an assembly. Mounting hardware is included in the kit. In the first photo below, at the right rear of the fan a flange can be seen with a Phillips head screw circled. This screw and a matching one on the left side secure the upper part of the assembly to the sloped MDF panel which forms the top of the rear compartment of the refrigerator. At the lower right another Phillips screw with a large head clamps to the front vertical edge of the vent opening. A hex screw attached to the front lower right of the fan frame holds a small rectangular bracket which clamps to the rear side of the vertical edge of the vent opening. Together, these two screws form the clamping mechanism to the vertical edge of the vent opening. The same arrangement holds the lower left side of the fan to the vertical edge of the vent opening. I editing the photo below to to brighten the interior details. Unfortunately, I do not have the exact dimensions of the upper vent opening. My recollection is that I did a quick measurement of the vertical height available inside the opening and concluded the 5.5" height of the fans would fit. Amazon lists the dimensions of the 2 fan assembly as: 1"D x 12.5"W x 5.5"H. The Beech-Lane website does not list the dimensions of the fans. My trailer is in a storage facility about 35 miles north of my home. The cables for power and remote control run up the left side of the compartment, across the sloped MDF panel behind the fans and up into the right corner of the compartment into the area behind the microwave oven. Our ELII is a 2022 model. I do not know if the size of the upper vent opening has varied over model years. I hope this helps clarify the mounting method. Don

@topgun2, Bill, I appreciate the story of your fan installation experience. Thanks for sharing. I dread projects which I must do a hurry, because they invariable turn into a huge PITA. Fortunately, I had no deadline pressure for modifying the installation of the remote control for my fans. Nonetheless, I had to re-do all of the electrical connections and add a few, due to the additional of the switch in the control panel, so there remains the possibility of problem "in use". The acid test will be our next road trip, where the shake table torture will be applied. I have very high confidence the fans can deal with extreme heat, as my driveway tests proved. One of the benefits of DIY projects is gaining the knowledge of where to look to diagnose problems appearing later. I try to take photos, before, during and after and keep notes. These are great aids in dealing with problems such as you described. Smart phones are a tremendous aid in doing so.

@Mike and Carol, I suggest checking for a loose ground connection, or a corroded connection, probably on the trailer. Also check the ground connection to the 7-pin connector. Add electrically conductive grease to the 7-pin connector, if you have not already done so. I have encountered similar symptoms on a utility trailer, which ultimately proved to have a poor ground connection. I have not seen these symptoms when towing our Oliver. Does the cover/latch on the 7-pin receptacle on the truck engage the catch on the 7-pin plug of the trailer to secure it? Have you tried wiggling the 7-pin connector when it is engaged in the truck's receptacle to see if this triggers the message?. I assume your Ram TV has an OEM brake controller. Has this been checked? When the message is displayed do the brakes respond when pressing on the brake pedal or by manually applying the brakes using the brake controller? When the trailer is connected and the the "trailer brakes disconnected" message is displayed do the lights on the trailer work? Brake lights? If you have another trailer or a friend has one, does the problem still occur when another trailer is connected to your truck? Good luck. Don

From late May to mid-June my wife and I took a loop trip from our home in Dallas, TX to: Greenville, SC; Asheville, NC; Asheboro & Seagrove, NC and back to Dallas. The trip covered approximately 1900 miles, with significant temperature variation. During the trip we experienced erratic performance by the Norcold Model 412 refrigerator, standard equipment in our 2022 Oliver Legacy Elite II trailer. The refrigerator would not maintain food safe temperatures in either compartment, except when operating on AC current. This problem occurred mostly on the second half of the trip, as daytime temperatures exceeded 90 degrees (F). Especially when in transit, operating on propane or DC current, the refrigerator temperature would climb to approximately 60 degrees and the freezer into the mid 20s. We contacted Oliver Service and made an appointment to have the refrigerator problem assessed in Hohenwald. We later decided not to divert from our trip plans and to deal with the problem when we returned home. Upon our return home to Dallas, TX, on June 20, I began a series of tests with the trailer parked in our driveway. To monitor the temperatures in the refrigerator and freezer, I used an AcuRite Digital Wireless Fridge and Freezer Thermometer, which we had purchased to monitor the Norcold refrigerator and had been using since September, 2022. I also used an Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 1080 to compare readings with the Acurite thermometer. The AcuRite and Etekcity thermometer readings agreed closely. With the refrigerator empty, I recorded the time required to go from ambient temperature to food safe temperatures using AC, DC or propane. Using AC, the refrigerator/freezer would reach food safe temperatures in 6-7 hours (low 40s F for the refrigerator; 0 degrees F for the freezer) with ambient temperatures ranging from 87 to 99 degrees F. Once achieved, when on AC, the temperatures on both compartments would hold in a food safe range. Conducting the same test on propane, the refrigerator and freezer would reach only 62 degrees and 19 degrees F, respectively after more than 12 hours of operation. This test also was done while ambient temperatures ranged from 87 to 99 degrees F. Similar results were observed while operating the refrigerator on DC. I again contacted Oliver Service and was recommended to take the trailer to an authorized Norcold service provider. Blue Moon Mobile RV (Blue Moon) was determined to be the closest available Norcold service provider. I arranged an appointment to bring the trailer to Blue Moon for troubleshooting of the refrigerator. Technicians at Blue Moon confirmed my observations of the behavior of the refrigerator. They also confirmed the cooling function was working properly, since proper temperatures were achieved when operating on AC. They also confirmed the single, small fan located at the rear of the refrigerator was operational, but providing insufficient air flow for the refrigerator to operate properly when ambient temperatures were high. Blue Moon conferred with Norcold technical support on their findings. Blue Moon and Norcold recommended additional fans be installed to dissipate warm air behind the refrigerator. Having anticipated installing additional fans, I had done online research and chose a dual fan assembly from Beech Lane 12V RV Fridge Ventilation Cooling Fan 5.5" (140mm). These fans come with a remote control with which fan speeds and threshold temperature may be set manually or automatically. These fans were installed by Blue Moon in the upper vent opening of our LEII. The 12VDC power supply to the refrigerator was also used to power the fans. The remote control was mounted to the cover over the refrigerator circuit board using double sided tape. The excess length cables provided with the fans were bundled with zip ties and secured nearby, as shown below. Blue Moon tested the operation of the refrigerator following the installation of the Beech Lane fans and reported food safe temperatures were being achieved and held, with high ambient temperatures. On July 19 I picked up our trailer from Blue Moon and returned home to repeat my prior tests to compare results running the refrigerator on propane and on DC. The trailer was parked in the same location in our driveway as previously. After installation of the ventilation fans, using propane, the refrigerator and freezer compartments achieved safe food temperatures in approximately 8 hours, with the refrigerator control set to 7, despite ambient temperatures ranging from 93 to 105 degrees Fahrenheit. Once safe food temperatures were achieved the refrigerator control setting was reduced from 7 to 6 and allowed to run overnight. The following morning both the refrigerator and freezer had slightly warmer temperatures, but still satisfactory for safe food storage. We have not yet had an opportunity to utilize the Norcold refrigerator on a trip to observe how effectively safe food temperatures are maintained when full of food and under changing environmental conditions using the three power sources. Based on the test results using the ventilation fans, I expect the performance of the refrigerator to be significantly improved. We should now be able to use DC to power the Norcold refrigerator when in transit, and avoid the use of propane. Performance running on DC appears to be similar to running on propane. While I was pleased with the significant improvement in the operating temperatures achieved by the Norcold refrigerator, there were three aspects of the installation I chose to change, all related to access to the remote control: The remote control for the Beech Lane fans has very bright blue LEDs which are ON whenever 12VDC power is ON. At night, we noticed a bright blue glow emanating from the lower refrigerator external vent cover. Accessing the remote control to change settings required removing the refrigerator external vent cover. When we store the trailer we typically turn OFF all DC power by turning OFF our lithium batteries. Upon the next use of the trailer, when DC power is restored, the refrigerator ventilation fans must also be turned ON manually. There was no switch to turn OFF DC power to the remote control. To address these issues, I relocated the Beech Lans fan remote control to the interior of the trailer and installed a switch on the control panel located at the entry to the trailer. I chose to have the remote control inside the access hatch in the storage cabinet located over the microwave oven, directly above the Norcold refrigerator. To re-route the cables to the ventilation fans, I had to remove the microwave oven. To install a new switch in the control paneI I had to loosen the panel from the wall. I had to add approximately 10 feet of 20 AWG twisted pair cable (gray) to reach from the new switch on the control panel to the 12VDC power supply at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. The photo below shows the routing of the remote control wires (black) and 12VDC power supply behind the microwave cabinet. I had to drill a ~3/8" hole in the angled MDF panel behind the microwave cabinet, directly above the refrigerator. I caulked around the cables after routing them through the hole and behind the refrigerator. Fishing the wires into the area behind the control panel was not difficult. The yellow Romex appearing at the top of the photo below supplies the AC outlet for the microwave oven. I contacted Oliver Service and ordered a single pole switch (with blue light) to match the others in the trailer control panel. The cost was slightly over $7, including shipping by first class mail. The new switch was installed in an unused location on the control panel which previously had a blank cover. I added crimp on spade type connectors to the twisted pair cable to connect to the terminals on the new switch. Although the new switch is single pole, there are three terminals on the rear with the wiring connections listed below: Ground (dissimilar color) DC Power IN (center) Switched DC Power Out I found the wiring diagram below which shows an analogous circuit. The switch and the ventilation fan remote control both require a ground connection. The Switched DC power terminal is connected to the DC+ power connection for the ventilation fan remote control. The new switch needs a ground connection in order for the blue light to operate indicating the switch is ON. In the diagram a car battery is shown as the 12VDC source. On the trailer, the 12VDC source is located at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. This DC circuit is already fused at the DC power panel located below the rear dinette seat. I chose to locate the Beech Lane fan remote control behind the access panel in the storage cabinet above the microwave oven. I made this choice to avoid having the bright blue LED lights on the remote control illuminating the interior of the trailer. The access panel is easily removed when there is a need to access the remote control, to turn ON the ventilation fans, or to change the fan speed or threshold temperature. The Beech Lane ventilation fans are very quiet. With the auxiliary fans running, the volume of air exiting the top exterior vent is noticeably greater than with the small, single OEM fan mounted to the rear of the refrigerator. We have not yet tried sleeping in the trailer with these fans running. There is no chance of hearing the fans inside the trailer with the Dometic A/C running. They are not noticeable when they are running unless you are standing close to the upper exterior vent. I recommend these fans to anyone having similar difficulty maintaining food safe temperatures in the refrigerator when ambient temperatures are high. Regards, Don

We use all three of the items recommended above with our LEI. I recommend all threeI: Andersen Ultimate Gear Kit Be sure to use the wedges under the curved levelers, to prevent your trailer rolling forward after unhitching. X Chocks Be sure to check tightness if you adjust the leveling after installing the X Chocks. Harbor Freight rubber chocks (4X) I place two on each side BETWEEN the wheels, which makes them captive and less likely to scoot. We also use the Camco Yellow Stabilizer Jack Supports, as well as 3 wooden blocks 6" x 4" x 4". The square spacers from the Andersen kit are used on top of the jack supports, in combination with a wooden block, if needed. These items in combination have enabled us to deal with a wide variety of sites, with varying degrees of non-level parking area.

@Caddymv kudos on the wind and solar powered towel rack!

Correction to my prior post- I purchased 6 sensors

I purchased the TireMinder i10 system with 6 sensors (I second the recommendation by @topgun2 to purchase 5 sensors). I am happy with the system, which has a small monitor which I keep in the console of the TV when towing. The monitor sounds an alarm to alert of problem conditions. TechnoRV.com is a good source. On the recommendation of @John E Davies, I also purchased two extension hoses to attach to the spare tires on our LEII and TV, Cheme Extension Hose, Air, 36" (2). In addition, I purchase a pair of valve stem extensions, Mellbree 2-Pack Tire Valve Extension, 90 Degree Schrader Tire Valve Stem Extension. These additions have proven to be quite beneficial, as the spare on the LEII is mounted with the valve facing the trailer body, requiring removal of the spare to adjust the air pressure. Our TV also stores the spare with the valve facing down, requiring removing the spare from its storage well to adjust the air pressure. In both cases this PITA is eliminated by having the extension hose installed with the TPMS sensor at the end and accessible. Don

I searched extensively to find a quality propane grill with dual burners and separate controls. I selected a Napoleon TravelQ TQ285 Grill. This grill is currently $295 on Amazon (vs. $319 direct from Napoleon). I managed to catch a sale for $250 on Amazon. This grill has a clamshell style body with porcelain coating and weighs just under 30 pounds. I also purchased a PORTAL Outdoor Folding Portable Picnic Camping Table to serve as a stand for the grill. The table was $80, but now listed on Amazon for $72. Compact size was a critical selection criteria for both the grill and table, since I needed them to fit in a rear mounted cargo carrier. Our tow vehicle is not a pickup truck, but a BMW X5. I did not want to carry the grill within the TV. Upon receipt of the grill, I modified the fuel feed to enable use of quick connect fittings for use with the low pressure propane connections on our LEII. I also purchased a DOZYANT 18 feet Low Pressure Propane Quick-Connect Hose, $25 from Amazon. Below is a photo showing connection for both high and low pressure propane supplies. The high pressure connection is on the right with a 1 lb. fuel container attached. The low pressure quick connector is located to the lower left of the regulator. The red handled valves control selection of the desired propane source. The grill is shown with its folding legs extended. This setup has proven quite satisfactory. The grill easily reaches any temperature you would reasonably need for cooking. The grates are cast iron. There is also a griddle available for one side, which we have not purchased. This grill lives in our rear mounted carrier, with a Champion Dual Fuel generator (also configured to use the low pressure propane connections on our LEII). See the packing arrangement below, including stabilizer bases, chocks, etc.. P Prior to using the grill, I line the interior with aluminum foil. The grill comes with a grease catch pan under the center, which I also line with foil. The aluminum foil is easily discarded after use. I scrub the grates with a grill brush and wipe them with paper towels. I also wipe out the grill interior to remove any grease prior to storing the grill back in the cargo carrier. We don't notice any odors from the grill following this procedure. I highly recommend this grill. Don

John, I also am sad to hear of your declining health and the impending sale of Mouse. You have alluded to health issues and your expectation they would lead to this point. I too learned a great deal from your informative posts. The documentation of your modifications is first rate. I have always been impressed by the thoughtful designs and the very high caliber skills evident in the fabrication of your modifications to Mouse. I thank you again for reviewing and commenting on my design for a rear mounted cargo carrier. Your imprimatur gave me confidence to proceed. I wish the best for you and your family. Thank you for your substantial contributions to the Oliver community. Don

@Billsarvis I added a rear mount cargo carrier to our LEII. A bike rack could easily be mounted in the same manner. See: Regards, Don