DavePhelps Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 Coy, I finally took a 1-1/2" ABS coupler and cut it in half, which gave me two rings about 3/4" wide. I then clamped the rings in my vice and cut each into two pieces. The ID of the coupler is a bit more than the diameter of the jack rod, but when you cut them in two, the saw kerf reduces their diameter when clamped together on the jack rod. Fine tune with a belt sander or file. I actually made the rings just a bit smaller than the diameter of the jack rod to get positive clamping when I tightened down the hose clamps. The ABS is flexible enough in those small pieces to conform to the jack rod. My jack on the door side of the trailer was installed crooked. Wish I would have caught that during pickup. It leans in towards the tire a bit. Making an already tight situation even tighter.Maybe you can see it in the pic. It is a close fit with the spacers, but I think it will be OK. I've tried to visualize how that shackle will move but don't see how it would interfere or contact the jack pad. If they move at all it would be in a very shallow arch as the springs compress (and lengthen), and the swing length would be pretty minimal. If someone else has a different idea about that, please, I'd sure like to hear about it! Right now, with the spacers installed, my jack pads are 11-1/4" off the ground. I finished off the job by capping off the zerks with a rubber snap cap. They worked great and hopefully will keep the grit out of my zerks. https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Bleeder-Grease-Fitting-Rubber/dp/B01DAVCD3M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1479081388&sr=1-1&keywords=brake+bleeder+screw+caps Not the best pic. The jack pads are actually about 1-1/2" away from my tire! Clearance between jack pad and shackle is 1/4" to 3/8". Pic of the "split ring" made from a 1-1/2" ABS coupler. Hope this helps. Dave 2 2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107 1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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