Stainless steel counter top

[Raspy]

Just finished the new counter top.  14 gauge, 304 stainless.

 

Here are some pix:

[Raspy]

 

 

Just installed a new counter top.  304 Stainless in 14 gauge.  Here are some pix:

 

[attachment file=20170422_211434.jpg]

 

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[Raspy]

Where is this thread?  Can't find it under Ollie Modifications

[Vector - Lanham]

Great job. I'd wanted the fiber granite, but it exceeded my budget at the time.  I've been looking for something like this to do (or have done)  to it.  What gauge of steel did you use?  thanks, Vector

[Raspy]

Vector,

 

The material is 14 gauge, 304 stainless .  This is a very corrosion resistant material and the 14 gauge is thick enough to prevent denting.  It has worked out very well and can be used for preparing food without a cutting board if you wish.  It is also much less likely to have any problem related to heat from hot pans.  The surface is far more durable than fiberglass or faux granite.  I think Oliver should have a stainless option.   Everybody that looks at my trailer likes it.  These counter tops could be easily produced and I see it as far more practical then what is being offered.

 

To make your own, stainless pieces like this can be had at scrap yards for a low, per pound price.  Then simply get it sheered and bent at a sheet metal shop.  The cut-outs are easily done with a 4 1/2" grinder. If you notice where mine is screwed down, I was able to miss any obstructions in the counter framing and reach in to install nuts.  It is glued down with stripes of silicone about 2" apart everywhere under it, and then clamped until set.  The thickness is so little that it does not affect anything else.

 

I have now added a side-splash next to the stove, made of Corian that prevents splashing hot stuff onto someone sitting next to the stove.  I also changed the faucet.

 

This has been one of the best modifications to the trailer.

 

I'm now finishing up modifying the microwave cabinet.  It now has a smaller microwave, with a drop down door that acts as more counter space and there is a wine rack and utensil storage in the cabinet with the microwave.  This is much more secure while traveling and adds a lot of practical storage.  Imagine the larger kitchen utensils and wine bottles completely contained where they can never fly around or break.  And where the microwave door can never open, so it can be used to store bread or other light items while traveling.  The drop down door is a good place to make sandwiches or set a dish rack while doing dishes.  My original microwave  tried to escape twice before I took action and re-designed the whole cabinet.

[Mike and Carol]

Wow! When you get a chance please post some pictures of this ongoing project. Mike

[Raspy]

Mike,

 

I will.  Door is on and microwave fully installed.  Doing the door catch this next week and will be done.  Pix soon.

[Raspy]

Mark,

 

 

 

I'll measure it again and post the dimensions.  Thanks,  John

[Vector - Lanham]

Phillip Andrews  told me on the FB Forum that the dimensions of the counter top are 45-3/4” x 24-3/4”, of course this does not include the backsplash or the skirt which is just above the drawers. Of course, these won't be the exact measurements, but it gives one an idea.  And the fiberglass is 1/2 inch thick.

 

Great job on the innovative craftsmanship, Raspy.

[Vector - Lanham]

Today, I got a rough quote for a piece that can be worked for that at 50 to 60$, plus a fee for braking/bending and sheering/cutting the piece.

 

 

[Raspy]

The dimensions of the stainless countertop are:

 

14 gauge, 304 stainless.  Polished on one side.  This usually comes with a plastic protective film on one side.  It should be easy to find at a good scrap yard.  Get a piece of about 48" X 36" or bigger to allow proper shearing and squaring up.  Thicker would be fine, but not thinner.  18-8 stainless would probably be fine too, as thata is used in commercial kitchens, I think, and silverware.  316 stainless is also good and even more corrosion resistant, but not needed and more expensive.

 

44 3/4" wide

 

24 3/4" deep (over all)

 

6" backsplash

 

2 1/2" front flange

 

(5) "10 screws in the front flange and (7) in the rear.  I can give those exact positions too, later.

 

Notes:  The actual counter surface is quite square, so these measurements assume square corners with equal diagonal measurements.  The dimensions qiven are slightly less overall than the depth of the surface.  This so you can slide to stainless back to where the front flange is tight against the front of the counter.  In the rear, the wall slopes inward as it goes up.  This allows you to force the stainless into place and have the backsplash tight against the rear wall.  In give you a tolerance  that allows everything to fit perfectly when pushed int place.

 

You can dry fit the top and install a few screws, then reach under to scribe the openings on the bottom of the stainless.  Then cut those out from behind with the 4 1/2" grinder and a metal cutoff wheel.  Use a hole saw to cut out the faucet hole.  Dress up any raged edges with a fine flap wheel of about 120 grit.  Carefully round the corners by rough cutting with the cutoff wheel and then smoothing with the flap disk.  Be careful not to make the cutouts  too big because the flange on the sink and stove are small. Use white silicone to glue it down. Install the screws, and use lots of blocks and clamps to hold it until set.  It will be trying to slide forward because the backsplash is pushing against the rear wall.  Use stripes of silcone about 2" apart so it can spread out and expel the air without forming bubbles.  When dry fitting, install masking tape all around to limit how far the silicone will spread.  Once clamped and screwed in place,  wipe off the excess silicone and make the edges look nice.   Then leave it alone for 24 hours.  Then re-install the sink and stove.

 

Before installing the sink, you have good access to make any changes needed under the counter.  I installed shutoff valves on the pigtails feeding the faucet.

 

Then I made a Corian side splash to prevent coffee or other spills onto anyone sitting next to the stove. If your stove it turned sideways, this is not needed.  I also changed to a different style faucet

 

If more details are needed, I'll provide them.

 

On the front flange, I asked the metal shop to make a slightly larger bend radius of about 1/4" radius ot match the outer corner of the fiberglass surface.   The thickness of the fiberglass is about 1/2".  so this means screws of about 1 1/2 in length t allow for thicker areas underneath.  The counter is cored construction, so overtightening of the screws.  Prep the fiberglass surface by wiping thoroughly with alcohol to remove any mold release wax or oil.

 

This project is not too hard.  Just take your time and be mindfull of the details.  It is a modification that I thank myself for doing everyday while out camping.  Very very nice, durable and clean.

 

We'll be at the Rally so come by and measure it up.  Hope to see you there.

 

John