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bradbev

Is your Hitch up to Snuff? Is Mine?

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Getting ready to head to Tennessee and looking at the collection of Class II (2) balls, stingers, etc left over from 40 years of RVing.  Most stamped 5000 lbs, 500 tongue weight.  Maybe I need to upgrade, but not exactly sure of the height I'll need.  I see some  class 3 and 4 hardware that should handle an Elite II.  Anita told me from 23.5 to 26 inches as I remember.  Still have a topper to install along with all the junk, but we do have air bags to help correct any sag.

 

The hitch on the Dodge 3500 is a frame mounted unit and I'm not sure of it's ratings.  There's a 5000/500 rating stamped on the bumper, but I think that is for a ball mounted on the bumper, not the frame hitch.

 

Thoughts?  I've pulled heaver (25 foot Bigfoot) on 1/2 ton Ford factory hitches without thinking about it.  Getting paranoid in my old age.

 

 

 

Brad

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Brad, I have a 2006 Ram 3500 4wd with slightly oversized tires (worn 33 inch diameter).

 

I am using an extended 3/4 inch rise ball mount and a standard 2 inch ball (with 1 inch shank). Both are rated at 7500 pounds. My ball measured 23.5 inches to the flat on top and that has worked well. This was with the bed loaded with all the gear I planned to carry, plus a fiberglass Leer canopy, probably 700-800 pounds total.

 

I chose a mount that was three inches longer than a regular stubby one, for better tailgate and bumper clearance for the coupler and the storage basket ... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007M308U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

DO NOT use your 5000 pound rated parts!

 

Your Class 5 receiver is rated for a gazillion pounds, don't fret about that part of the equation.

 

Don't forget to bring grease for the ball and coupler. I towed the trailer dry from the factory to Falls Hollow CG, and it wrecked the chrome plating on a brand new ball. Any synthetic grease will do, I carry a 3 oz tube of brake caliper lube in the cubby of my dash, so it is always handy. It takes up minimal space.

 

IMG_5304.thumb.jpg.e76802e351374cd70b0af43191adccbd.jpg

 

FYI, I bought a 2 inch ball with extended shank at eTrailer. I added eight 1 inch ID hardened (Grade 8) washers under the mount. I planned to use them to fine tune the ball height, if needed. I did not need to move any under the ball, but if you are running bigger  EDIT: SMALLER tires you might want to go this route, for some height flexibility. Do not use soft hardware store washers, they must be hardened and be sure to torque the heck out of the nut (250 ft lbs). I have used this method for countless years and never had a problem with the washers being there. Since you have airbags, you can probably just skip the washers.... unless you are really anal.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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John,

 

Thanks for the information.  I suspected the frame hitch in the Dodge was substantial but glad to have it confirmed.

 

I'd not thought about having an extended stinger (ball mount) but I like the suggestion.  I'm thinking about a class 4 stinger and ball with 1 and 1/4" shank with a minimum of 7500 lbs rating.  This afternoon I'm going to make some measurements this before I remove the 5th wheel hitch which will kind of  substitute for weight of the ARE topper I've got on order.

 

I was kind of thinking of waiting until we reach Tennessee and purchase at Tractor Supply but I'm a little afraid they may not have what I need.

 

Appreciate the advise.

 

Brad

 

 

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John,

 

FYI, looks like my 3500 may sit higher than your 2500 Dodge.  I ended up purchasing the 45260 with 2" drop (same as you but using it flipped).  Also just to make sure I'm in the ball park, I ordered a 45270 4" drop.  Also, the 40038 2" ball, 1" shank rated at 12000 lbs.  Between those, and the air bags, I think I'll be able to come up with a combo that will put me pretty level.

 

Amazon should have everything here Saturday.  We'll be departing Tuesday, July 4th.

 

Brad

 

 

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We wanted the trailer as level as possible, so we went with a hitch that put us right at 23.5" and we could drop it a couple inches more still to make it perfect. On ours, 22" would be as close to dead on and I prefer it to be slightly low in the front over high, when we are just stopping somewhere quick over night. Unless your tires and suspension on the trailer are different, I would shoot for right on 23" or a little less. 24" to 26" would be too high on ours.


Happy Camping,


null


Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle


2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4


Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel


Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II


 

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I wanted to make sure I had the ability to adjust the ball height to get the Oliver as level as possible. I think this is a key factor in towing safely. I started with a ball mount that I purchased in Tennessee when I picked up my Elite II but I switched to an adjustable ball mount pretty quickly. It was expensive, but it gives me great piece of mind to know that the ball height is just right to make the Ollie level when I'm towing. Here's what I use:

 

https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Weigh-Safe/TB6-2.html

 

I'm towing with a 2015 VW Touareg TDI.

 

Don


Don

 

2020 Conqueror UEV 490 Extreme Platinum

 

 

2019 Ram Rebel

 

 

States I visited with my Ollie (Sold October, 2019)

 

 

States Visited Map

 

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