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Spike

Advice on Installing Hayes Sway Master?

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I’d like to get, if possible, some input from some of the folks on this forum who, I know, are much handier and more technically knowledgeable than I am. After some research, deliberation, and input from some Ollie owners, I ordered this Sway Master from Amazon:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Hayes-81775-Master-Electronic-Control/dp/B01GT91SY2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506379779&sr=8-3&keywords=sway+master

 

Bill (rideandfly) generously gave me some very helpful photos and information about how he installed his Sway Master. He installed his on the (aluminum?) tongue to avoid messing with the fiberglass covering the A-frame.

 

I am considering mounting mine on the A-frame, as shown in the photos here. I have no problem with mounting it on the outside of the fiberglass if 1) I will not damage the fiberglass more than putting two holes in the top and two on the side for the screws needed to secure the Sway Master, and 2) if the unit will not get smacked by my Tundra’s bumper during a left-hand turn.

 

There is a gap, about 1.5 inches wide, between the fiberglass and the A-frame beam, as can be seen by one of the photos. I am thinking of filling this space with some material (hardwood? aluminum?) before I screw the unit with four screws into the outside of the A-frame cover. Here are the issues I can think of asking for advice on before the installation:

 

1.     What kind of filler material that I could easily obtain from my local hardware store would be best?

 

2.    Four screws came with the unit, but I suspect that there is a type of screw that would be best to help avoid damaging or discoloring the fiberglass. What type of screw should I ask for at the hardware store?

 

3.     The top of the unit, where it would attach to the top of the fiberglass cover (see photo), would accumulate some moisture. I wonder if this would be a problem and, if so, would it be a good idea to fill it with some material or cover the unit when I am attaching it with some thin piece of metal or other material? (Should I just cover the screw heads with some kind of sealant?)

 

Any input on these or other issues on installing my Sway Master that may occur to any of you would be appreciated.

 

 

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Onward through the Fog!


EarthPicks of Cochise County


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Jeff, wanted to share additional information with folks here that aren't familiar with the SwayMaster, hope you don't mind.

 

Hayes intended the SwayMaster to be installed on the trailer tongue A frame normally made out of carbon steel. The position Jeff shows is consistent with Haye's intended installed angle. Hayes said my installation location was fine for the SwayMaster operation, too. With the mechanical talent here, hope ideas will be shared to help Jeff with his SwayMaster installation.

 

Here's my SwayMaster installation without WDH, our Ollie weighs in at 4950lbs with empty water tanks.   Used 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" aluminum angle and have additional detailed photos, too.  Have not had any clearance issues with my installation so far and really like the SwayMaster unit for Sway control with our Tundra. It has activated a couple of times applying trailer brakes before I noticed sway, once coming down a mountain when I was going too fast through a curve and once during high cross winds.

 

Jeff, Hope this helps!

 

IMG_0527-M.jpg

 

IMG_0501-M.jpg

 

 

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Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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Spike

 

I have the Sway Master and have used it for more than a year.  I am pleased with it but honestly did not have any problems with sway BEFORE  I purchased it.  I did so because of the reduced insurance premium.

 

Because the Sway Master has some internal electronic sensors, I would hesitate putting any type of covering over it, especially metal.  I have an Elite and it is mounted on the tongue.  I used stainless steel hardware, no discoloration and very strong.  Not here, but in another area I used a piece of Oak as a filler to keep the Fiberglass from squishing. I extended the tongue and used the open holes to mount the Sway Master.  I do wonder about the Sway Master being mounted at an angle not parallel with the direction of travel.  I am not an expert but would suggest calling a technical advisor at e trailer and discussing the mounting and your concern with water pentatration.

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Agree with Coy, sent Hayes photos of my installation and they said it would work fine.  SwayMaster will not work with all tow vehicles, I called before installation and Hayes confirmed the SwayMaster would work with our Tundra.

 

The SwayMaster uses GPS to sense speed and the sway feature activates at 45MPH. If GPS signal is lost, the Sway Master goes to default mode with the SwayMaster active at all speeds until GPS signal is reacquired. This is why I did not mount the SwayMaster under the LP tanks, like Coy said, did not want to block GPS reception.  Leave the Ollie outside 24/7 until I build Ollie a garage. The SwayMaster is built to be out in the elements.

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Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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Hardrock, I wasn't thinking about the internal electronics when I was thinking of covering the top of the Sway Master. You report that you extended the tongue and used the open holes to mount the Sway Master. How does one go about extending the tongue? Does the extension affect the way the trailer tows in any way? Do the "open holes" just coincidentally match up perfectly with the holes for the screws in the Sway Master?

 

Thanks to everyone for your input thus far. I really appreciate it.

 

I will also take the advice of contacting the Hayes company, perhaps sharing my photos with them.


Onward through the Fog!


EarthPicks of Cochise County


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Spike

 

I have a 2016 Elite.  At that time, Oliver manufactured Ollies with a tongue that could be extended WAAY out and could even be removed.  Every 6" is a hole that could be used to adjust the length the tongue is extended.  I have my tongue extended 12" and it rides very well.  My TOW is a Toyota Tundra V8.  Unfortunately, Oliver no longer has the extendable tongue.  They currently have a "fixed" tongue on new Ollies.

 

Look at Bills mount.  He used some aluminum flanges he made from Aluminum stock.  I did the same, used the stock, marked where the bolts were and drilled holes in the stock to fit.  I went to Fastenall and bought bolts that are longer than the Ollie stock bolts.  I then put the longer bolts back in with the appropriate hardware and torque.  I still had 1.5 inches of thread on the bolt so I then put the aluminum stock on that I previously had drilled matching holes in.  I put the Sway Master on the aluminum stock, centered the Sway Master bracket and marked the holes.  I then drilled the holes in the top part of the aluminum stock and mounted the Sway Master with stainless steel bolts.  I put a second nut on top of each bolt. Now the Sway Master is parallel with the tongue, I drilled no holes in the tongue, only in the Alumnium stock.  I bought two black lots that were  1.5 inches longer and more threads on the end.  If you go this route, make sure you get the hardened steel, usually #8 sold at Fastenall.

 

Hope this helps.  If not, I can send pictures when my daughter returns with my trailer

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Forgot to mention earlier, our Tundra operators manual requires a trailer sway control device with trailers above 2000lbs.

 

Needed to replace the hitch ball (chrome in poor condition) so ordered a new ball yesterday with new 8.5" shank forged ball mount, overall length 14".  The new ball mount will add 1" between the rear bumper & ball compared to existing ball mount. Will post photos with Ollie connected with trailer/TV straight and LH turns with new ball mount installed.

 

Have not had SwayMaster clearance issues in LH turns with 7.5" shank forged ball mount so far, but interested to see how additional clearance works out in LH turns with SwayMaster installation.

 

 

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Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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Spike,

 

Tested a Drawtite #40330 forged ball mount today, I'm going to use this ball mount with the Tundra/Ollie/Swaymaster rig in the future:

 

IMG_0651-M.jpg

 

IMG_0647-M.jpg

 

IMG_0644-M.jpg

 

IMG_0640-M.jpg

 

 

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Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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Thanks, Bill. Clearance certainly looks good. I am going ahead with mounting mine in the location shown in the photos of my previous post. I'm hoping that I don't have any clearance issues with left-hand turns. I'll take Ollie out for spin soon and see . . .

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Onward through the Fog!


EarthPicks of Cochise County


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The 1" increase in ball mount length increased clearance for my Swaymaster installation.

 

Probably already doing this, connect Tundra to the Ollie and turn left. Place the Swaymaster & cables where you plan to install the unit to give an idea of clearance before installation.

 

Our Ollie weighs in at 4950lbs with tongue weight of 450lbs, ready to camp with empty water tanks. Our Tundra's operators manual requires a WDH when towing trailers over 5000lbs, not using a WDH. Use a Swaymaster, since a sway control device is required for trailers over 2,000lbs.


Bill

LE2 Tundra

 

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